R1200GSw LC Wethead Final Drive change and Spline Lube Pictorial!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. Limbow

    Limbow Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the info Jim. Now I need to get your maintenance video download since I have a new Shifthead!
    JimVonBaden likes this.
  2. Podman

    Podman Rocketman Supporter

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    So my question is I have owned BMW motorcycles since 1996 and I have never had a problem with final drive nor have I ever lubed my splines. I do my own maintenance and do change the final drive fluid etc. I have a 2016 R1200GSA with 64,000 miles. Leave well enough alone and just keep riding it or no you better do your splines because if you don't this that and this other thing are going to happen. BTW Jim I have your video/video's etc and review them before every service I do.
  3. Lead Wrist

    Lead Wrist Mehr Gelände Weniger Straße

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    Up to you - but it won't take too much time to do it next time you service the bike...

    You may be able to prevent something happening down the road - ymmv... :deal
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  4. RoundTrip

    RoundTrip Unintentional deerslayer Supporter

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    2015 GSA

    First pic is what the splines looked like when they were inspected yesterday for the first time at 24K. I don't think I could ask for better.

    before.jpg

    And here is what they looked like as it was put back together

    after.jpg

    I'm good for another 24K.
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  5. cass1881

    cass1881 Adventurer

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    I wonder if anyone also does the front. I know its a little more involved. But I am curious if it is "safe to say" that if the rear splines are good, the front connection should also be good ?
  6. Lead Wrist

    Lead Wrist Mehr Gelände Weniger Straße

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    Yes - front splines are better protected than the rear at FD so your "safe to say" logic applies... :-)
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  7. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud Supporter

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    I pulled and lubed the front driveshaft splines on mine at 48k miles, and they were fine as I'd expected. Still had a bit of lube present from original build.
  8. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    I've seen the DS rusted half way to the front, but never seen rusty front splines.

    That said, it wouldn't hurt to do it at some point.
    cass1881 likes this.
  9. bigjohnsd

    bigjohnsd '14 BMW R1200 GS Adv Supporter

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    See Post #885 in this thread:


    [​IMG]
  10. eri

    eri Been here awhile

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    as above, it's really easy to pull back the front boot and have a look at the front splines

    and if the FD has been swung down it is very easy to slide the drive-shaft back a cm? and add a little grease to the front splines without pulling the whole shaft
  11. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    I forgot about yours, odd case. Looks like the bike was submerged. That is barely rusty, and wet.

    Look at the lack of rust on the shaft in the front though:
    [​IMG]
  12. eri

    eri Been here awhile

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    if the front boot is perished/holed/badly fitted etc. water will get in and run downhill to the bottom of the swingarm, where the final drive is

    if the rear boot is well sealed, that water will just accumulate there, with the rear spline and uni submerged until the boot is opened.....
    JimVonBaden likes this.
  13. Widdy

    Widdy n00b

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    I too have discovered my 11/18 Rallye GS has the FD affected. It has done 20,000 km and was so rusted up on the splines that it simply pulled the SD from the Trans when i dropped the FD. I had to remove the entire assembly and decided to take it to BMW to separate SD from FD.
    Good news for me is they did separate it but also have received approval warranty replacement of both SD and FD from factory

    I now have to re-assemble the bike and bring it back so they can replace when parts arrive.

    What I could not fathom was why the varying results from different ages / miles completed by others yet they had no issues! I discovered what i believe could simply be a factory assembly error that occurs sometimes and thus allows the water to enter the shaft housing over time and start the whole rust issue.
    The plastic clip that resides inside the rubber gaitor that clips the gaitor to the DS housing had shifted or rotated (likely during assembly) and pinched the seal component of the gaitor in a position where there is a locating detent in the housing, deforming it where the seal has the smallest room for error, and thus allowing water to then enter and do its damage.

    This may be of interest to others as an easy check to make to see if your bike will have corrosion highly likely. Kudos to OP and other contributors for all the inputs.


    Last 3 photos show how it should sit.
    E4AF7205-BF5A-479E-8379-B41118A3553B.jpeg 20D2F471-C1AA-4D6F-A7FB-268C1DDA20BF.jpeg 78E7082F-7752-4F6F-BC01-BC2A688A5E2C.jpeg 53F6B925-23BF-4F1E-AC08-3148386CF0A7.jpeg 4F1DDDD2-F3FF-4047-9090-B89F4D865AC6.jpeg 319313D1-0734-4B5B-969F-06F4973BFFD7.jpeg


    Ps ( I only read up to page 57 from 1) so might already be spoken about.
    JimVonBaden, Candubrain and eri like this.
  14. Mr Pou

    Mr Pou Adventurer

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    So, I'm another sad sack with seized splines. Tried to drop my FD, but it won't budge. Tried putting the wife on the pillion and jacking the FD with the floor jack/wood block, no good, still seized. Whacking with a rubber mallet is futile. Just a slight amount of play when wiggling, which I imagine is the circlip on the trans side of the DS. Waiting on the long torx to remove the rotor, and also need the proper size socket for the lower pivot bolt. What a pain. The boot showed no evidence of having sealing grease on it, dry as a bone. I've never opened it before, I suspect it left the factory without grease.

    Bike is a '17 GS (not A) with 24kmi, dealer did all the service while under warranty. Won't waste my money next time, I'll do it myself. I can't believe BMW doesn't recommend or include spline lube as part of routine mx. It's almost criminal in my opinion that a 3 yr old vehicle with 24kmi has a seized drive shaft. Oh, and I haven't done any water crossings, only wash the bike maybe 2x per year, but am not shy about riding in the rain.

    @JimVonBaden , thanks for all of the good knowledge you've shared here, it sure is a help. With your chisel/hammer a few posts ago, did you go medieval on it, or use some touch? Once I get the FD/DS out, I plan to hit it for a day or two with PB Blaster, and then get to whacking.
    paschalis and JimVonBaden like this.
  15. Mr Pou

    Mr Pou Adventurer

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    Finally got the lower pivot bolt out, the bearing stud on the outside drove out easily, the bearing stud on the wheel (needle bearing) side was seized. I had to drive it out with a drift and hammer, and pretty much wail on it pretty hard. It was corroded. According to the manual and pars fiche, there was supposed to be some kind of sealing o-ring or gasket between the bearing stud and needle bearings. I found no evidence of a seal ring.

    IMG_1734.JPG IMG_1733.JPG

    After the lower pivot was free, I tried to yank the drive shaft out, but no success. Tonight I pull the shock, level the swingarm, and try again. The more I touch on this bike, the more I find that was corroded and rusted, which I find quite shocking actually. Earlier this summer I had to beat the rear caliper bracket off of the caliper, clean/dress the sliding pins, lube and reassemble as the rear caliper was seized. I kick and then wiggle the rear caliper at every gas stop to ensure it is still free floating.

    ARGH!
  16. Zubb

    Zubb he went that-a-way... Supporter

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    :pope

    Maybe that'll help?

    seriously though, I'm wondering why so much trouble with rust/frozen parts.
    If I can encourage you though, you should feel better knowing that if' you've had it apart (calipers and such) and anti seized or greased parts properly, you will have an easy go at it next time you are 'in there'.

    Sorry for your troubles, but the upside is you are getting to really know your bike better inside and out.
    AdamChandler likes this.
  17. Mr Pou

    Mr Pou Adventurer

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    5CD4DC77-AD15-45B4-A087-5182140DE500.jpeg 2F478269-3524-4611-B842-79DAF12EA889.jpeg

    OK good people of ADV I need your help. I’ve leveled the shaft, and still can’t get the driveshaft out. I pulled back the front boot and the splines look good, but I still can’t get the thing off I’ve tried prying on it with a big screwdriver I’ve tried hammering on it with a drift nothing won’t budge. To me, it looks like the rear frozen splines have jackhammer the front U joint collar too far up onto the transmission out put splines making it really difficult to get this thing apart. Pictures attached

    Anyone have any bright ideas?
  18. pistole

    pistole Long timer

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    lots of penetrating fluid. Let it sit
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  19. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Hi,

    I always start with a moderate hit, and work up in power. Also important to make sure the wedge of your chisel is appropriate so that it pushes against the shaft and the U-joint. I sometimes have to use a couple of different chisels.
  20. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    That is certainly not normal. Just goes to show that this should be done early, and in the case of a lot of off road use, often. I suspect you will need a new pin and FD pivot bearings.