R1200GSw LC Wethead Final Drive change and Spline Lube Pictorial!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. jmb711

    jmb711 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    Oddometer:
    135
    Location:
    Northern Nevada
    Did my 2017 GSA rear splines 6 months ago with 14K on it. A few tiny points of rust no real big deal. But it was disappointing to see the sever lack of moly by the factory so Im glad I cracked it open for a look see. Then while I was at it, separated the fr splines and gave them a splash. I had a difficult time getting it reattached so while doing spline maintenance in the future I wont completely separate the fr splines from the trans but pop it off the spring ring and pull it back just enough to check and lube then reengage the spring ring.
    Macho Man2, jdub and eri like this.
  2. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,567
    Location:
    S. Central PA
    In case it helps anyone, here's a post I made elsewhere recently on a fairly easy method I found to reattach the driveshaft's front yoke to the output drive shaft splines.
    JimVonBaden and GSBruce like this.
  3. jmb711

    jmb711 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    Oddometer:
    135
    Location:
    Northern Nevada
    I did what you did but no string. I took 3 small blocks of wood (small pieces left over from previous project) and placed then just forward of the rear u joint. They propped up the back of the DS then pushing down that levered up the fr of the shaft and much to my amazement :wings the splines slid right on.
    jdub and Zubb like this.
  4. Toter

    Toter Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2020
    Oddometer:
    53
    Location:
    North Georgia
    2014 R1200 GS, 19,467 mi. Wanted to get a look at the driveshaft and splines after seeing some horror stories on this forum, on relatively new bikes. Drained the fluid to facilitate dropping down the FD, even though it had only 4,500 mi. on it. Driveshaft had small traces of rust at the rear universal joint, and swingarm tube had a small puddle of clean water at the end. Maybe from rain, or previous washings. FD pinion splines had traces of rust. There was some type of silver paste lube on the shaft splines and pinion splines, but not much. The cover over the pinion nut had surface rust. Boot was in good shape, without much lithium grease for sealant. Cleaned everything up and used a chain lube/corrosion prevention spray on the driveshaft and u-joint. Used moly paste on the splines, and placed a generous amount of lithium grease to seal both sides of the rear boot. Very pleased with the condition of everything overall, with the exception of the small amount of lithium grease on the rear boot. I believe this contributed to the small amount of water in the swingarm. Now have peace of mind on this part of the bike.
    20210612_124008.jpg
    20210612_124037.jpg
    20210612_133810.jpg
    JimVonBaden and eddyturn like this.
  5. Shawnee Bill

    Shawnee Bill Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,690
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Today I decided it may be time to check my rear splines.
    2019 1250GSA with 51,000 miles. No trouble getting it opened up but then the rear splines do not slide at all. The front splines seem to slide freely. So I decided I needed to take the final drive off and pull the drive shaft out. Got the pivot bolt and pivot pin out so the final drive is loose and just hanging there but I still can't pull it off, i.e. neither end of the drive shaft splines will slide off, the front will slide maybe an inch but then hit a hard stop.

    Plus I have another problem, when I pull the pivot bolt out and then gently tapped the pivot pin out from the right side of the bike it came out and also a large washer fell from somewhere I didn't see. I can not figure where that washer goes, it seems it should go on the pivot pit on the left side but when I put it there and just snug up the bolt the covering cap that goes on the left side over the pivot pin sticks way out, it does not have room to push in flush as it should.

    Any ideas?

    Pictures. It that the correct placement of parts?

    Edit to ask: That washer has a bevel on one side, which way does the bevel go when we figure out where the washer goes?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  6. Pch123

    Pch123 Bar Crossings

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,706
    Location:
    East Coast Australia
  7. Pch123

    Pch123 Bar Crossings

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,706
    Location:
    East Coast Australia
    The front Universal has a internal cir-clip You need to pry off front universal as per previous posts in this thread. JBV has a pictorial. Rear uni joint maybe stuck on FD input spline. Heat usually assists in removal along with penetrating fluid. Check out part #15 above for correct placement of spacer
  8. Shawnee Bill

    Shawnee Bill Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,690
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    The front cir-clip I'm also wondering about, do I just keep pulling harder on the final drive until it pops off? Do I need to get a slide hammer puller and somehow fasten that to the final drive and bang on that?
    The final drive would not drop down until I hit it pretty hard and then it gave a small pop and now the front splines slide back and forth maybe an inch. If I try to swing the final drive up into position it takes a bit of force and there is a pop and it goes past a restriction and into position, I was assuming that may be the cir-clip causing that.

    I've looked at that parts drawing, and I think it is #15 that I'm wondering about. However when I put it there part #16 doesn't go in far enough to let part #17 sit flush with the housing as it should. Also #15 has a bevel on one side, I'm not sure which way the bevel goes. It seems it should be pointed in because there is a snap ring (doesn't show in that diagram) that it would press against with a huge torque value.
    Number 14 in that diagram is called an O-ring in the parts listing.
  9. Lead Wrist

    Lead Wrist Mehr Gelände Weniger Straße

    Joined:
    May 26, 2007
    Oddometer:
    15,288
    Location:
    Zer0-Zer0-Zer0-Zer0
    You'll need flat head wide screwdriver, strategically placed, which will help you disengage the c-clip and slide DS out...
  10. Shawnee Bill

    Shawnee Bill Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,690
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Where do I strategically place this screwdriver?
  11. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    95,568
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    Leave the pins in part way and pivot the final drive firmly to yank out the front spline. Then pull the pins all the way out and pull the final drive with the shaft.
  12. Shawnee Bill

    Shawnee Bill Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,690
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Thanks, that's sort of what I was thinking and why I was putting the pins back in. Good to know I'm on the right track.

    But soon I have to figure out that washer.
  13. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    95,568
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    14 goes on 15.

    [​IMG]
  14. Shawnee Bill

    Shawnee Bill Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,690
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    14 is an O-ring, it is in place.
    But which way does the bevel side of 15 go?
  15. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    95,568
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    I don't remember, but it will fit better one way than the other. It doesn't really do much but be a spacer and keep dirt out, so not a big deal.
    Shawnee Bill likes this.
  16. Mr Pou

    Mr Pou Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2018
    Oddometer:
    531
    Location:
    Southeast TN
  17. Lead Wrist

    Lead Wrist Mehr Gelände Weniger Straße

    Joined:
    May 26, 2007
    Oddometer:
    15,288
    Location:
    Zer0-Zer0-Zer0-Zer0
    The service manual that you're using during this repair should give you more details...

    Excerpt from different service manual for Camhead but same principle applies on LC:

    [​IMG]
    Shawnee Bill likes this.
  18. Shawnee Bill

    Shawnee Bill Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,690
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Ok, I figured out where that spacer goes. We were looking at the wrong parts diagram. It goes behind the bearing in the swingarm, between the swingarm and the final drive. It fell out when I was pulling on the final drive and it separated enough from the swingarm for the spacer to fall out.

    Kind of surprising that this hasn't happened to everyone trying to remove the final drive, nothing holding that spacer in there so when you get a little separation between the swingarm and the final drive it just falls out. Goes back in the same way, just pull them apart slightly and push it back in place, bevel facing the final drive.
    Part #6, which is the same as part #15 in the drawings above.

    [​IMG]
  19. Mr Pou

    Mr Pou Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2018
    Oddometer:
    531
    Location:
    Southeast TN
    Yeah, I remember that piece, has a little rubber o-ring around the circumference. I put it bevel facing the swingarm figuring the bevel helps you get things together.
    Shawnee Bill likes this.
  20. pistole

    pistole Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2013
    Oddometer:
    2,632
    Location:
    earth
    Cut the ziptie at the front boot. That will expose the front u joint.
    Shawnee Bill likes this.