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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.
Is Staburags NBU 30 used for greasing the splines or sealing the boots? Or both?
Sealing the boots.
Staburags is for boot sealing only.
For splines, you should use Honda Moly 60 or M-77 or equivalent...
Exactly! Don't do what this guy does (scroll to 6'40"):
Well not going to get into a pissing match with anyone but the NBU 30 can, and is, used for both.
"NBU 30 PTM has been especially designed for use as sealing grease, for valves and fittings as well as for the lubrication of low speed rolling and plain bearings subject to humidity, water vapor and aggressive media, for example in wet-processing textile machines and conveyors in wet areas and food processing machines."
You think BMW has two types of this stuff on the line?
NBU 30 IS a grease and could well be used for both. It is just somewhere, probably back in the day on the Air Heads, where lubing splines was a MUST someone used Honda Moly. And there was no boot to worry over sealing on a Air Head you are moving a transmission case away from a engine case to expose the spline.
So it has stuck over the years and the word/definition of spline is way different in the case of our FD.
You can use it for BOTH areas. I use Honda Molly as I have a stash, and the NBU 30 for the boot but if I did not have the Honda Molly, I would use NBU 30 for both with no issues.
Having neither , so its just plain bearing grease for the spline and lithium grease for the rubber boot.
Well I guess "run what ya brung" is better then nothing. If you are going to do it on a 12K schedule or whatever you feel best with on your bike, that would be fine.
I will look at mine, front and rear, at 24K which is coming soon. Depending on how the rear looks that I did new, and how the top looks as OEM, I will make a decision on how often I want to do it.
As new, mine was dry on my 17.5 GS. The 15 RT had some but was in need of more and some light rust removal.
Of course all of this is about how YOU want to take care of your bike. I really dont want to do this every 12K or even 24K. And I held off on the top transmission spline because I know it is a PITA. That top "circlip" or "snap ring" (not sure what it is called out as) is a pain snapping back in to the transmission from all reports. I guess aligning the splines to get the shaft far enough back to get that ring to snap in place is a bear to do.
I am sure after hours and a walk away, the first next try it will slip right in
I posted this a few months ago on another thread regarding an easy method I found to reinstall the front u-joint yoke on the gearbox output shaft splines.
Based upon how good my splines have looked front and back (checked and lubed twice in 60k miles), I won't check the rear again for another 36k to 48k miles.
recently changed the perished rubber front driveshaft boot on on a 2008 hexhead
previously had had a battle on a 2009 getting the floppy front universal of the driveshaft back on to the gearbox spline
this time ran a light nylon string down the swingarm and slid the driveshaft universal up this and lifted it onto the spline, then slid the string out
Finally got my $950 drive shaft from France. The term DHL Express translates loosely from Europe. Actually, not bad after they finally got around to shipping it. Went back on today with no real drama. BTW, it came with the snap ring installed, so no need to order one separately.
I almost gave up on reusing the final drive, as I noticed a very small amount of free play, while holding the splines with the end of the new driveshaft and rocking the brake disk. Then I locked the splines from the nut and discovered the same amount of free play, which means it is internal to the drive and I suspect, entirely normal. Thought I would mention this to save others from tossing a potentially good final drive.
Just a question out of interest.
Has anybody found in the Reprom any instructions of how to pull apart the final drive ? If so, can you point me towards the right pages ? I just want to have a look at it.
I do have the Reprom purchased via my BMW dealer, just can't find the info....LOL
^ Check section 33 - Rear axle, Rear Wheel Drive...
FWIW, over the weekend, I had to put a new back tire on my 2013 R1200GSW, so I decided to change the FD gear oil, and also lube the splines. The bike has 34,000 miles on it and I had never looked at the splines, so I lined up my various penetrating oils and whatnot and proceeded to pull the sensor and the brake caliper, then the bolt that holds the stay arm to the FD. The splines IMMEDIATELY disengaged and the whole FD pivoted down like that. Boom! I had not rigged a bungee or anything to it, since I expected a fight to get them to disengage.
To my surprise, the splines looked clean and good, and rust free. I lubed them heavily with some Honda Moly 45 that I have owned since before many of you reading this were born , and proceeded to button it up and remount the wheel.
I have finally got all the gear but have to wait as other jobs like work and jobs at home have priority, before I can attack mine.
Did mine this morning. 10,000 km since drive shaft universal repair. It looked perfect with still plenty of molly and no sign of water intrusion. Got lucky, 30 secs to relocate splines and reseat boot. Cheers
The last part I was waiting for, was the Staburags NBU 30. That stuff is pure liquid gold....AUS $59,- for 60gr and that was the best price I could get. The biggest joke.....cheapest price per gram came from the good old USA, despite that it's made in Germany
A dollar per gram, give me a break. But that's typical us Germans...ohh no, nothing just off the shelf will do...no....let's just go to a local manufacturer and give them some exotic specification that nothing on the market can match, and have them make a special formula exclusive for our use
white Marine grease is good enough for me. cheers
this german pensioner apparently tried to cheap-out from using the specified staburags for his tank tracks
ended up throwing a track while snow clearing.....
and without the track he couldn't hide it quick when he heard the authorities were coming round to have a look
all turned to custard after that as they took his flak88, torpedo and the v1 flying bomb he was restoring too
you do need a LOT of staburags for tank tracks
and on a pension
$5 tubs of moly probably looked good
I am sure that the choice of lubricant for the splines must have been discussed somewhere in the 86(!) pages of this thread, but I think that any major brand of grease containing moly for high pressure applications would work just fine. No need for the ultra-expensive stuff. Besides, it is easy enough to inspect the splines when you are changing a back tire, so not that hard to keep track of how they are doing if you are concerned.
@Emoto , the Staburags is the "official" sealing grease to be used on the DS boot when re-seating the boot, not the grease to be used on the splines themselves. Your old tube of Honda moly is fine for the splines, I myself have a 20+ yr old tube of Honda Moly 60 that I'm still using lol.