R80GS Basic clutch adjustment question

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Kokopelli, Apr 13, 2009.

  1. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    I think I'm trackin witcha now. With the cable disconnected (and completely out of the picture) the adjuster nut at the trans won't contact the throw-out rod.

    I see nothing faulty in your logic that something between the adjuster and the spring is too short.
    #21
  2. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

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    If you have the old multi-part piston, make sure both bearing races are in there.
    #22
  3. Kokopelli

    Kokopelli Yeah, right!

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    The old parts did the trick. The adjustment is now the way it should be. It only took a couple of minutes to get it right.

    I still don't know whether it was the piston or the clutch rod that was the problem. The older parts seem to be a better solution anyway, so they'll stay.

    I could have kept the reconditioned clutch by the looks of it. It took less force to operate. I am just in the process of fitting the swing arm and doing everything else up.

    If someone is able to provide me with the measurements of their clutch rod and piston I could find out what the problem was.
    #23
  4. Kokopelli

    Kokopelli Yeah, right!

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    I just went for a quick ride up and down our street. The clutch works, but it takes more force to operate it than the old reconditioned one. Of course I left the earthing wire off the transmission bolt, so the neutral light is not working. Luckily all I have to do it back out the bolt a couple of turns, since I've open up the loop at the end of the wire the last time this happened.

    All I need to do now is to top up the gear box to compensate for the oil I spilled, change the fork oil and fit a new rear tyre and it's ready for upcoming adventure ride.

    After that ride I will check all the fasteners again, to be sure.
    #24
  5. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    Something else to watch for... thanks for the learning curve! :D
    #25
  6. Cigars&Scotch

    Cigars&Scotch My eyes are up here Supporter

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    I am going to revive this issue.

    I had put in a new clutch on my 90pd about a month ago using Slopers great thread. The cable was adjusted and everything was fine. I rode the bike for at least a month with no issues. On thursday, I had the bike all loaded to head out to the the Old School Sring Fling. All was fine and I headed out at 4:30 am for my 750 mile trip. I got about 30 mile out and when I went through a toll both, pulled in the clutch and nothing. I had no tension on the clutch lever.

    I decided to abort my run and run back home as I had a new cable in the garage. After a couple of runs through some red lights, made it home. I inspected the bike and found the cable was fine. The lever was good and working like it should. Took out the BFSD (big f*cking screw driver) and worked the lever and saw that I had tension. I adjusted the screw inward till it stopped and the unscrewed the adjust on the handlebars till I got tension and the clutch worked.

    Started the bike and the clutch worked fine but was making funny noises and looking at a 12 hr run to Kentucky, decided to stay home.

    So I have to take it apart tommorrow. What should I look for? It has a new OEM clutch and pressure plate. The easy thing would be the TOB.

    Can I remove that assembly with out removing the swingarm and trans?
    #26
  7. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    There's a frame cross brace that's just a bit in the way. It seems that pulling one of the engine mount bolts and the mufflers will allow the engine to tilt just enough for the TOB to clear.

    I'm not positive that's all it'll take, but the first steps I'd take. If that didn't work, removing the swingarm axles should. Be sure to clean the area between the frame and swingarm well so no crud get's jammed into the swingarm bearings, should you go that route.
    #27
  8. Kokopelli

    Kokopelli Yeah, right!

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    You can remove the throughout bearing quite easily, but you won't get the clutch rod out without removing the swing arm. Pull your TOB and take some measurements, so we can compare. The side opposite the bearing is of interest. How deep does the metal plate sit inside the piston?
    #28
  9. Joerg

    Joerg Long timer

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    #29
  10. Cigars&Scotch

    Cigars&Scotch My eyes are up here Supporter

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    Well took it apart this morning. I did not have to remove the swing arm to get the TOB out, just the rear tire. I reached in with a pair of long nosed flats and pulled it out.

    Well it looks like I have the old style with a missing part. There is no sign of a bearing in there.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    The outer race and button, smaller peice of the 2 pictured above was on the shaft pretty good. I had use my punch and a hammer to remove them off the shaft.

    Well it looks like I need to order a new TOB from Max or Bob's on Monday.

    I guess the difference of the bearing wasn't enough to really make that much of a difference. The outer peice must have gotten hot, expanded and slid up on the shaft. This was enough to give shorten up the assembly and making the lever push against air.
    #30
  11. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

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    Kokopelli: looks like the picture of the TOB shows that it's collapsed. The metal part should be flush with those thin plastic fingers.

    Cigars&scotch: where did the bearing go? It had to be there at some point. Is this a bike you just bought, inop?
    #31
  12. Kokopelli

    Kokopelli Yeah, right!

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    Thanks Anton, knowing that early on would have saved me a lot of hassle. I did suspect that that might have been the case, but they didn't have the a new piston in stock to check against. Now I've got the older style piston installed.

    To me it seems a better system, what do you think?
    #32
  13. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

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    You posted the pic link April 14th. Most self-employed people don't have a lot of free time on that day. :)

    I like the new pistons just fine, but I haven't had any problem with them. I know of two bad ones that I can think of now, experienced by other people. The older part seems very reliable, though.
    #33
  14. Kokopelli

    Kokopelli Yeah, right!

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    Sorry, I guess that came across wrong. I am thankful for your insight. Also, I am grateful to the ministry of education for allowing me to work on my bike, while self employed people had to sort out their taxes, or whatever you had to do :D.
    #34
  15. Cigars&Scotch

    Cigars&Scotch My eyes are up here Supporter

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    :dunno

    And I have been riding like this for over a year.
    #35
  16. Temel Reis

    Temel Reis Adventurer

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    Could one of you tell me whether it is possible to replace the clutch adjusting screw with something else?
    What is the function of that pointy end?

    Not that I mind buying the original part but nothing is available in Turkey so I had to have it shipped from somewhere, just for a screw it's very silly.
    #36
  17. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Try a regular bolt. You can file the end down a little? If it works you may want to still get the correct part someday when you are ordering a few other things.
    #37