Rally Raid Products BMW G310R / G310GS

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by ktmmitch, May 25, 2017.

  1. Monterey_BS

    Monterey_BS On or Off - not sure Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2009
    Oddometer:
    355
    Location:
    Monterey County, CA
    I'm currently running a 130 TKC in the back, along with the 100/90, and find that the bike steers better than with the 140. I travel light, so lower GVWR is not an issue and speed rating is moot anyway.
    cujof16 likes this.
  2. cujof16

    cujof16 Cujo

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2012
    Oddometer:
    175
    Location:
    My RV ... Or in Tucson Arizona

    Thanks, thats what I thought you had mentioned in beemerbeemer and/or the 310 main thread, but could not get all the deets in one place.

    As far as mounting up the wheels, the front came with two different size washers for the front disc install. From inside out, do you put the thin washers on the inside (spoke side) or the outside (bolt side)? The wheels came with the nuts and washers, but did not have instructions in the box.
  3. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,418
    Location:
    California
    Hi Cujof16 - I’m on the road at the moment so can’t check, but as I recall you just use the OEM disc bolts and nuts to secure the disc to the spider on the GS - it was only the CB disc (for the 2013-18 bikes) that needed the thin washer under the bolt head, as the step shank was slighty too long (there is a recess in the cast wheels you see).

    I would email Rally-Raid and ask if its the same for the GS, if so, the fatter washer is for the nut, the thinner one goes under the bolt head.

    The disc mounts directly to the spider in between.

    Jx
    cujof16 likes this.
  4. BMWzenrider

    BMWzenrider The Road Scholar Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,341
    Location:
    CheeseHead Land...
    It may just be that my google-fu is weak, but I am not able to find any information on the RR website or this thread about the difference in stroke between the standard height and low Level-1 rear shocks.

    Is there a difference in stroke, or is the difference in length accomplished through shortened end caps?

    I saw mention in one reply that the Low shock is an emulsion type rather than having a floating piston for the standard length Level-1 shock.
    What are the effects of having one design versus the other?
    Advantages, disadvantages, longevity differences?

    I have bad knees, so the lowered suspension sounds appealing, but I do not want to give up too much in performance (travel, damping, etc).

    Thank you.
  5. ktmmitch

    ktmmitch Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,554
    Location:
    uk
    The low shock has a length adjustment feature built into the lower mount, this 8mm length adjustment, along with the fact that the low shock is lightly shorter overall length than stock, equates to between minus 10mm and minus 35mm on OEM seat height.
    It also has a corresponding reduction in overall stroke of wheel travel of 20mm to allow for the fitment of length adjuster.
    Although the emulsion low shock is not as high performance as the Level 2 remote reservoir Tractive shock, it is much improved spring ratio and damping performance over the OEM shock.
    cujof16 likes this.
  6. BMWzenrider

    BMWzenrider The Road Scholar Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,341
    Location:
    CheeseHead Land...
    Thank you for that additional information.
    I have read in this thread that the level-1 Low shock differs internally from the standard length Level-1 shock.

    Wouldn't this affect the performance between the two beyond the fact that the Low version cannot be mounted inverted?
    My understanding is that the separation piston reduces/eliminates foaming of the shock oil to provide more consistent damping.

    I am also wondering if the damping rates for the Low shock are firmed up versus the standard length Level-1 to prevent bottoming out of the shorter travel available to that unit?

    Thanks again for your patience in answering my questions!
  7. ktmmitch

    ktmmitch Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,554
    Location:
    uk
    It is true that a separation piston shock will perform slightly better than in the emulsion shock, but the emotion shock is still a much better performing product than the OEM unit.
    The shim stack on the low shock is designed to give slightly stiffer damping on compression than the standard length shock, to help prevent bottoming out
  8. WoodWorks

    WoodWorks House Ape

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,882
    Location:
    Ashland, OR, USA
    OK, now I'm confused. I'm about to have my Level 1 shock (standard height, with external hydraulic preload adjuster) installed this week, and I've told my dealer that it must be installed upside down in order to accommodate the preload adjuster. The instructions on your site don't say anything about that, but I've read it here (Jenny's post #825) that's how it should be done. Can you clarify? Level 1, with hydraulic preload adjuster = upside down?
    cujof16 likes this.
  9. ktmmitch

    ktmmitch Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,554
    Location:
    uk
    Correct, the spring is at the top and the PA at the bottom
    WoodWorks likes this.
  10. BMWzenrider

    BMWzenrider The Road Scholar Supporter

    Joined:
    May 9, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,341
    Location:
    CheeseHead Land...
    Thank you for the rapid response!!!

    Not to belabor the point, but does the standard length Level-1 shock have a separation piston, or is it an emulsion unit like the Low shock option?

    -----------------------------------

    It is sounding like I might be happier with the standard length unit to retain the full 7" of suspension travel for going off pavement, as well as having a bit softer damping for ride comfort.

    As far as picking a spring rate; with my current weight in full riding gear I come in around 215-220 pounds, with an additional 15-30 pounds of cargo between a tank bag w/hydration pack & trunk (empty cases vs. full).
    So that puts my typical load at 230-250 pounds (104-113 Kg), which is right on the cusp between the Standard 120Nm and Harder 130Nm springs.

    I am leaning towards the Standard spring rate because it is easier to add preload to a softer spring when needed than to have one that is too hard to start with and I would rather have a more comfortable ride than too harsh.
    Also, I am looking at taking some weight out of the bike by removing the passenger peg brackets, lithium battery, etc, as well as taking down my own mass a bit after gaining 10 pounds over the winter while laid up with a broken ankle... :doh

    What are your thoughts about spring rate?
  11. GWNavigator

    GWNavigator Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2017
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    San Jose, CA
    Hey Rally Raid - thanks for shipping my kit! Products look top-notch, and the wheels are awesome! Starting the build this week, finally :-). Regarding the engine guard instructions though... Apologies in advance for a 'dumb' question, but where the fitting instructions state "Undo both upper engine mounting M10 Allen screws and washers, do not discard them.", does undoing the engine mount bolts require something to support the engine from underneath? I'm assuming there are other structural members holding the engine in place and it won't drop, correct? When you're all done laughing, please confirm.
  12. Monterey_BS

    Monterey_BS On or Off - not sure Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2009
    Oddometer:
    355
    Location:
    Monterey County, CA
    It's been a while. Did one side at a time for the brackets, I believe. No movement. Check my posts 725 & 726 here. I wrote up some simple instructions and observations, since none were supplied. Once you get everything laid out, it's fairly intuitive. It's a hell-fer-stout piece of kit.
    GWNavigator likes this.
  13. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,418
    Location:
    California
    Hi GWNavigator - yes, you are correct - plenty of other bolts holding the engine in place, don't worry.

    for info. various fitting instructions are in the process of updated to reflect the new introductions for 2019 and spec changes to existing products.

    Jx
    GWNavigator likes this.
  14. GWNavigator

    GWNavigator Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2017
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    San Jose, CA
    Ok, got the bash plate on. Looks awesome. I've ordered and received the RR tubeless wheels and purchased tires, got the fat bars, risers and other doo-dads. The one thing I am holding off on is suspension. Though the video of the rear suspension upgrade seems straight forward, it looks like possibly some specialized tools are needed for the fork upgrade. Is there a list of tools needed for the fork upgrade? Want to see what I'm getting myself into prior to committing to the Level 1 kit.
  15. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,418
    Location:
    California
    Hi GWNavigator - glad you like it, and I can confirm it works well ;o)

    [​IMG]

    If you decide to go that route too, then the suspension swap is very straightforward - the rear as you surmise, but also the front - and the Rally-Raid fork kit includes a pair of dedicated wrenches that you need to undo and replace the top caps with the preload version - and everything comes out and goes back in the top of the fork legs.

    Jenny x
    GWNavigator likes this.
  16. GWNavigator

    GWNavigator Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2017
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    San Jose, CA
    Yes, the dedicated wrenches are exactly what I saw in the video that concerned me. Glad that these come with the kit - well thought out!
  17. GWNavigator

    GWNavigator Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2017
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    San Jose, CA
    On my test ride after installing my engine bash plate, I noticed my rear brake lever was sticking. After examining it I notice the rear of the lever meets up with the welds on the rear of the bash plate. On first glance it doesn’t look like there is much room for adjustment either. Anyone else ran into this problem?
  18. GWNavigator

    GWNavigator Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2017
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    San Jose, CA
    Pic for post above. E13BFA36-3927-4EBC-8F07-3AB1F0D2825F.jpeg
  19. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,418
    Location:
    California
    Hi GNW - I looks to me like the flat plate section has not been bent all the way around the tube for some reason... I would take it off and either whack the edge that is sticking out with a hammer, or just file/grind them down a bit.

    Jx
  20. GWNavigator

    GWNavigator Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2017
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    San Jose, CA
    I think the file/grind option may work best here. Hopefully should be a small amount of shaving required.
    JMo (& piglet) likes this.