Rally-Raid Products Honda CB500X

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by ktmmitch, Sep 22, 2014.

  1. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    I thought you might like to see the latest refresh/mods to Lisa's bike...

    [​IMG]

    Those of you who have followed this thread from the beginning may recall that this is actually the bike that started it all (the 'Zero bike' as it were) - Lisa bought this new-old stock 2013 model (originally black of course) in 2014, and after I'd ridden it a good few miles here in the US, went back to the UK where John and I started working on what would be come the 'adventure' conversion kit for these bikes.

    This bike already had the Rally-Raid LEVEL 1 (standard travel) suspension, foot-pegs and engine guard fitted, plus more recently the Scorpion exhaust - and Lisa has also fitted some saddle style bar risers (still with the OEM bars), the Tall Honda Accessory screen, heated grips and BarkBuster S5 hand-guards (the single point, bar-end mounting version) with Storm shields.

    It's currently wearing it's stock wheels and commuter tyres, but she also has a second set (my original cast wheels) with some TKC80's fitted for more off-road orientated riding.

    The refresh included a complete service/fluid change here at home, plus I took it into the dealer to get the valves checked/adjusted... turns out that even after 36,000 miles they were still well within spec (that was an expensive confirmation!)

    Having had the front fairing off the bike for that task, we decided to fit my original 2014 white tank and side panels (in Heritage colours, and complete with Rubicon scratches ;o), and also remove the smog canister (ahem) before putting everything back together.

    [​IMG]
    photo. tank swap - surprisingly easy on these bikes...

    [​IMG]
    photo. my brand new grab handles (which I'd removed almost immediately after I bought my bike).


    We've got a multi-day trip planned through northern California and into Oregon planned for later this summer, so stand by for some more photos then!

    Jenny x
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  2. mcpenner

    mcpenner mcpenner

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    I'd just like to take a moment to thank this forum for all the help. I know I've asked questions that have been asked by others and that I have struggled to understand the answers. But my suspension is getting close to sorted and I think I actually understand it all now. Great bike. Great upgrades from RR and great people on here!
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  3. bmah

    bmah Been here awhile

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    Jenny, where did you mount the rear clips for the coyote bag? Will they fasten to the passenger hand rails?
  4. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Bmah - generally I use the Rally-Raid Solo brackets (the brackets you'd use for just the tail rack when not fitted with the side luggage racks), and the hooks from the Coyote bag slide straight on and off those very easily.

    [​IMG]
    photo. Solo brackets replace the OEM grab handles, and also allow you to fit the tail rack too if you wish.

    However, more recently I rode my bike up to Oregon (for the Giant Loop Hot Springs event) and had the OEM grab handles on at the time - you can still fit the Coyote on those handles as they have a ridge/slot underneath than the hooks of the Coyote can slide into - however depending on how far back you like to mount your bag, you do need to trim the corner of the hook so it sits in the smaller/shorter slot behind the grab handle bracket (you'll see what I mean when you offer the bag up).

    I'd also add that the OEM handles are that much fatter and wider than the Solo brackets, so the bag doesn't sit quite so snuggly over the rear, but it works well enough if you want to retain the original grab handles. Equally though (unless you carry a passenger regularly perhaps) the Solo brackets also work well enough as grab handles, and for lifting the back of the bike etc.

    Hope that helps!

    Jenny x
  5. ncroadtoad

    ncroadtoad No Use to Society Supporter

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    Thanks for that post, these bikes are like a Lego project :D. Speaking of that, please tell me about the smog canister removal. It is big, ugly and takes up a lot of room. What's involved in removing it and what are the ramifications.
    Thank you
  6. bmah

    bmah Been here awhile

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    Thanks! Yes, that helps. I just ordered the Coyote and Rogue dry bag. I’m making a list of everything I need to order from Rally Raid.
  7. 32dgrz

    32dgrz Been here awhile

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    Call them to order they have given discounts to adv members
  8. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi NC - as far as 'ramifications' go, there is nothing physical that happens with the bike (as long as you do it correctly of course - see below), it's just a simple canister and some hoses to remove/plug up.

    However, should you live in California for example (ahem), technically your bike is meant to have a smog canister fitted - up until 2015 you used to get both 49 and 50 state versions (ie. without and with a canister), but from 2016 on I think they all became 50-state compliant with the canister.

    If you want to remove the canister, it's pretty straight-forward - although you need to take the following steps to ensure a proper conversion:

    First up, for those unfamiliar - this is what we're talking about:

    [​IMG]

    Basically the canister is connected to a breather on the fuel tank, so that any 'fumes' get sucked into and filtered in the charcoal canister, and are purged/recycled through the throttle bodies and burnt in the engine.

    Outside of California however, the CB has just a simple tank breather hose that vents directly to the outside (the long thin hose which runs down the left hand side of the bike behind the radiator and under the engine), while conversely on the CA bikes, there is a shorter hose that goes into the top of the canister (and also a slightly shorter vent hose from the bottom of the canister, both of which we'll re-use later - see below).

    From the canister, a fatter hose goes via the purge valve/solenoid, before tapering down to a smaller hose that connects to a T piece between the throttle bodies:

    [​IMG]
    photo. note the connection hose from the purge valve has already been disconnected in this picture.

    What is essential is you block these two hoses that enter the throttle bodies - I simply used an M5 button-head allen bolt [although a screw head in this instance/photo], superglued in the end of each cut hose:

    [​IMG]

    Once that is done, it's really a case of removing the canister and associated hoses - a single bolt holds the canister onto the frame at the top, although once that's undone it's easier if you also remove the small bracket behind it (another, shorter bolt) to get the hoses out. Don't forget to do up that bolt/bracket again once the hoses have been removed.

    The fatter hose to the purge valve just pulls off, as do the others. Similarly the fatter hose on the other side of the purge valve also pulls off (towards the rear of the bike).

    If you are being neat (and/or are anal about weight) you can also remove the purge valve (two more bolts) from inside the frame rail (although that is a bit fiddly) - and just cover the connector plug with a length of heat-shrink/tape to seal it. Otherwise you can just leave it in situ, as it's not doing anything now, and either way there is no dash warning light or anything to flag up an error.

    Finally, you need to connect the original short hose from the tank breather (the one that used to go into the top of the canister) to the longer drain hose that used to exit at the bottom of the canister - and I used a simple plastic barbed hose connector of the correct diameter, the kind you get in a multipack from any auto-parts store.

    note. the non-CA bikes had a longer [one piece] hose that runs from under the tank alongside the left hand frame spar, then down behind the engine (above the chain) to exit between the back of the engine and the swing-arm along with the other breather hoses. You can buy this longer length hose if you wish, although joining your two existing hoses together and routing them in the same way costs nothing but the barbed connector.

    So the total cost of this is a pair of M5 allen button-head bolts (8-10mm long is fine), and a barbed hose connector approximately 3/16ths of an inch diameter - stuff you most very likely already have in your garage/workshop of course.

    Hope that helps!

    Jenny x
  9. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    No worries - if you want, you can even modify the Solo brackets like I did on my bike, so that just the rear tabs remain:

    [​IMG]

    ...since the brackets are tapered like the grab handles, then the Coyote hooks only require about 2-3" to tension the straps; and again these 'tabs' still work as grab handles if you need to manhandle the bike and lift the rear wheel off the ground for example.

    Jx
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  10. ncroadtoad

    ncroadtoad No Use to Society Supporter

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    Thanks for that smog canister post JMo, I'll save that one for future reference.
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  11. chapped

    chapped Mostly just pissed

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    I put your level one kit on a 2013 model several years ago, sold it last year and am having sellers remorse. Looking at another 2014 and was going thru the web site to order a level two this time, I noticed that fork tube instructions have changed a little. Are adjustable fork caps not included with the kit anymore?
  12. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Chapped - this question was asked recently (if you search/scoot back a few pages, you'll see my answer here), and this is a copy of my answer below:

    "...sorry no, for a good while now the fork kits no longer come with preload caps - primarily to help reduce the cost of the kit as it was only 2013-15 models that didn’t have any adjusters as standard. While the locking Rally-Raid ones were/are much better than the OEM design on the 2016-on models, most people seem happy to retain their OEM ones where fitted (and enjoy the cost saving) or buy cheap ebay ones (rather than pay extra for the pukka Rally-Raid design). Therefore once stock of the original Rally-Raid caps was sold, they have not been replenished in the range."

    If you are looking for adjustable preload caps for a 2013-15 bike, then your best bet for the moment is probably eBay (thank you China), as the Honda OEM ones are actually quite expensive at $70 each.

    However, as I mentioned at the end of the post in the link above, ultimately the intention is to introduce a new flush style Rally-Raid cap for the CB500X, similar to the design that was introduced for the G310GS last year.

    Hope that clarifies things...

    Jenny x
  13. 32dgrz

    32dgrz Been here awhile

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  14. 32dgrz

    32dgrz Been here awhile

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  15. 32dgrz

    32dgrz Been here awhile

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    5C9BAE57-ED40-46E0-8F55-BCA9DFD6032C.jpeg AD7559C9-2E1F-4C4A-AF36-B2868460D142.jpeg 187 miles The RR CB is absolutely a ball to ride
  16. ktmmitch

    ktmmitch Long timer

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    [​IMG]

    Our friend, and traveller, Nathan Millward, has just left on another of his popular Garbage Runs, this time to Scotland.
    He is borrowing our 2019 CB500X as a test and for an upcoming feature in Motorcycle Sport & Leisure magazine.
    He has recently sold his RE Himalayan, and is looking for a replacement..........
    Follow his travels, he is the original Postman, travelled from Australia to UK on a 110cc Aussie postie bike.
  17. Johnytuono

    Johnytuono Been here awhile

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    Hi
    Has anyone in the UK received their Rally Raid items yet please? I ordered spoked wheels and exhaust on 9th May so am wondering if anybody earlier (or later) has got them so as to give me an idea about timescale.
    TIA
    John
  18. Manray

    Manray Killing Time

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    Be patient. I ordered May 8th and wheels were delivered Monday. RR are a bit behind schedule due to the May promotion.
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  19. Johnytuono

    Johnytuono Been here awhile

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    I am patient..........was just asking for info
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  20. Manray

    Manray Killing Time

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    Received my L2 spoke wheels and front wheel ABS disc ring. Received a package of bolts and spacers. No instructions included so was wondering what the following are for (A,B,C,D)? Thanks.
    DSCF0289_edited-1.jpg
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