Rally-Raid Products Honda CB500X

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by ktmmitch, Sep 22, 2014.

  1. ncroadtoad

    ncroadtoad No Use to Society Supporter

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    I had (have?) an audible squeak in the left fork upon heavy compression right after the build. Since I was sure that the assembly was correct, I just left it alone. I'm not sure if it's still there or not, you can't hear it riding. Fork action was smooth though. (Maybe it's the leaking oil from my valve cover gasket making it so smooth :nah - another job / another story..)
  2. Johnytuono

    Johnytuono Been here awhile

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    Received all my goodies from Rally Raid today for my 19 CB500X

    Looks really quality items....wheels/exhaust.

    Never swapped over wheels before.......so this may be a thick question.

    What needs to be taken off the front/rear to put on my spoked wheels?

    TIA
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  3. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    If its a 2019, discs and ABS rings. The cush drive assembly swaps straight over with the rubbers too - don’t forget there is an O-ring around the centre of the OEM hub once you removed the cush drive - you need to fit that on the new wheel too.

    You use your original spacers on the 2019 bikes, the earlier bikes have their own spacers included for the latest wheels/hub design.

    Jx
  4. dirtytroll

    dirtytroll Adventurer

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    Location:
    Haugesund, Norway
    Everything is ready in my garage for a full RR-upgrade. (Wheels, suspension level II, engine protection etc.) The RR-parts arrived Oslo Monday 15th July. But UPS didn't managed to send me the bill for VAT and customs before Thursday 18th. (Had to call them twice to get things sorted out). Estimated delivery was Thursday 18th July. Now its probably not delivery before Tuesday...But the weekend was not totally spoiled as I got a ride with the bike over the Suleskarvegen Road Friday/Saturday.
    IMG_6209.jpeg

    Suleskar Road:

  5. Johnytuono

    Johnytuono Been here awhile

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    Wouldn't mind a how to/video dirtytroll of when you fit the wheels if at all possible.

    Just fit my Scorpion to my 19 bike.......20 mins total, although had to fit it to the outside of the peg because I had an extra bracket fitted for my pannier frames.
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  6. dirtytroll

    dirtytroll Adventurer

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    Hi :wave
    I think there already is a set of great videos on YouTube how things is fitted although not yet on a 2019 model. It should be quite equal. But I may let my GoPro run :nod
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  7. japes1275

    japes1275 Adventurer

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    That’s my dream trip on the X sorted then - Norway looks amazing.

    At least your parts are on the way, I don’t think mine have been made yet. Got my Scorpion exhaust though and am more than happy with it. The hideous OEM thing is up on a shelf in the garage never to be seen again until the bike is sold!
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  8. depresso

    depresso Adventurer

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    May 9, 2019
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    Location:
    Perth, Australia
    Hi All,
    Just got the bars, barkbusters and levers (RR) installed on my 2019 (plus Oxford Grips... but they aren't exactly RR so...).

    A few things:
    1. As my local Honda installed them without drilling the additional holes in the barkbuster backbone (despite the instructions being provided to them), they have mounted them with the bar clamps going under the bars (not over the top as per Johnytuono). They don't hit the windshield on full lock - however the clutch perch has been shifted a bit further down the bars). Not quite sure how much of a fan I am of this at this stage but we'll see... I may adjust it myself over the weekend.
    2. Is there supposed to be a high amount of movement (vertically) in the RR-supplied levers??? Like you can wiggle them quite a bit as it would appear that there is a fair bit of 'room' in the hinge area where they connect to the housing (for lack of a better term). For example I find when I use the front brake I can not only bring the lever in, but also wiggle it up and down as I do so... seems a bit unnerving to me. Thoughts?
    Cheers

    Attached Files:

  9. Johnytuono

    Johnytuono Been here awhile

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    Hi Jenny
    The RR rear wheel looks to have an O ring already.........when you said the O ring behind the Cush drive did you mean a spacer? Looking at the online parts it is a spacer (collar).
  10. ncroadtoad

    ncroadtoad No Use to Society Supporter

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    Is it just the lever that moves up and down, or the whole assembly? If the Fatbars weren't drilled for the switch housings, then it's likely that the squeezing action of the clutch lever would cause the whole switch housing to move a little. At least for pre-19's, drilling the bar on each side is critical.
  11. Johnytuono

    Johnytuono Been here awhile

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    Hi
    I have the RR levers and the pulling part does move quite a few mm up and down (as if it needs a shim or something to tighten it a bit), although I think it's perfectly normal tbh.

    As for the Barkbusters, being fit over (and the extra drilled hole) gives you more adjustability in my opinion . Also being fit 'under' does make the backbone very close to the tank on full lock. Mine hits the screen on full lock btw but I can live with this.
  12. Johnytuono

    Johnytuono Been here awhile

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    I want to raise my front fender an inch or two to give me a bit more clearance, is there anything available? Rugged Roads used to do one for the AT which was spot on.

    TIA
  13. depresso

    depresso Adventurer

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    It is just the lever itself that moves up and down.
    The whole assembly stays put as the bars were drilled as required for the switchblocks.

    Just measured again, 1cm (~10mm) up-down play on the clutch lever, but 4cm on the brake lever; this being the distance from the top-most position to the lowest. Looking at it a shim looks like it would need to go in the perch where the lever goes, however that said the first bolt on the lever itself (prior to the adjuster) also looks like there is a bit of play there of a few mm too.
    Just feels VERY odd compared to the stock levers...

    On full lock my barkbusters I would say are a little over 1-2cm away from the tank (the point of closest contact is the bolt on the top part of the fairing). A bit close but I don't think it's too bad. As I said, I may change the positioning myself over the weekend.
  14. Johnytuono

    Johnytuono Been here awhile

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    Finally got the bike how I want it to look ..........

    upload_2019-7-24_18-52-2.jpeg
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  15. Johnytuono

    Johnytuono Been here awhile

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    yep my levers are around the same.....far more play in the clutch lever.
  16. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Johnytuono - no, the O-ring is part #24 on the fiche - it's the same part/fiche number between the earlier bikes and the 2019 model too:

    [​IMG]

    It fits around the centre of the wheel hub in a small groove, before you put the cush-drive assembly in place.

    It's possible that Rally-Raid have started to supply that O-ring with the new wheels, as it is a stage some people forget to do as part of the parts transfer between their original and new wheels - but you need to make sure it is in place.

    Jx
  17. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Depressio - I suppose it is feasible that you might have up to a centimetre (10mm) play at the ball end/outer tip of the lever, but I can't see how you'd ever have 4cm of play at the end of a lever unless something is seriously miss-assembled - or you have completely the wrong lever supplied/fitted - the lever pivot hole is not much bigger that the sleeve bolt that goes through it, and the thickness of the lever should be pretty close to the upper and lower faces of the perch, so you shouldn't be able to wiggle it anything like to that degree.

    note. There is always a degree of looseness with things like this (as the cast perch can vary in thickness between the faces), which is better than having things too tight so they bind and/or need filing for example - but it shouldn't be anything more than 1mm at most. Similarly, the diameter of the hole that the sleeve/pivot bolt passes through needs to be slightly larger to avoid binding, and so you can add a little grease in there too, but again, things ought to be pretty close. So at this stage, it sounds to me that you've either got a wrong lever, or wrong bolt if you have that much play at the tip end.

    Have you checked the diameter of the hole through the brake lever compared to the diameter of the sleeve bolt that secures it? (it's easy to undo the lock nut on the bottom, and unscrew the bolt from above - then the whole brake lever comes out - careful you don't loose the spring that goes between the lever and the perch) - even then, unless the pivot area of the lever itself is significantly more narrow than the space between the faces of the perch, I can't see how you'd have that much play - especially on a shorty lever?

    A photo would help too.

    Jenny x
  18. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    That looks great Johny' - Kreiga [soft luggage] back-plates on the SWMotech QR racks? - a nice combo!

    Jx
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  19. Johnytuono

    Johnytuono Been here awhile

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    Cheers Jenny......yep SW Motech Evo racks and Kriega platforms
  20. 32dgrz

    32dgrz Adventurer

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    Just wanted to thank the Rally Raid team for their prompt order processing and their incredible customer support to a guy that purchased a used Rally Raid converted CB. It’s great to work with a smaller company that is both developing a first class conversion and servicing after the sale

    THANK YOU John and Liz