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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by ktmmitch, Sep 22, 2014.
Have these also waiting to be fitted in another month or so.
Should compliment it nicely
Nice...did you spray paint the front ABS sensor ring?
That's actually the OEM ABS ring off the earlier (2013-15) bikes - which came in that colour...
If you refer back to the comparison here when Honda updated the bike in 2016, you'll see the ABS ring changed shape slightly - the original ABS ring has the return flange on the outside edge (nearest the disc face), while the 2016-2018 bikes have the return lip on the inside (nearest the hub).
for info. If you are fitting the Rally-Raid spoked wheels which have a dedicated spider for the OEM disc, you can either purchase their stainless-steel ABS sensor ring for the 2016-18 bikes, or use an OEM ring from the 2013-15 bikes - both fit/work in the same way, it's only the OEM 2016-18 sensor ring which doesn't fit against the the Rally-Raid spider (well, unless you elect to trim the sensor ring yourself of course).
note. the 2013-15 OEM sensor ring is surprisingly expensive [compared to a lot of other CB500X parts], which is why Rally-Raid cut their own version which could be offered at a more affordable price.
I'm not a fanboy, but want to mention the great added value of the RR abs ring is that it's been cut from stainless steel so would not rust to oblivion like the oem ones besides being lighter than the original.
They are very expenive genuine new in Australia. I should have ordered one at the same time as my wheels. I paid only a little less second hand than the RR version. The front ring had surface rust forming under the paint so I striped it back and repainted but as mentioned by Jenny, it is pretty much the factory colour. I did toy with the idea of painting it silver but it just looked better in black? I wanted to have the ability to swap wheels without changing discs etc so this was the best option for me.
The details you miss skimming. Thanks for the info Jenny. I already have a 2013 - 2015 ABS sensor ring. Not knowing it would fit the new spoke rims, I ordered a new RR ABS sensor ring with my spoke wheels order. Don't need both so one is now for sale. PM if any one wishes to purchase either at a discount.
Yesterday I have time to install two of the RR products: the exaust (around 20 min of instalation time) and the bash plate (30 min). I love them both.
Also I installed this fork protector since I don´t like at all the complete ones.
did you trim the pastic under the seat?
I remember reading that she did.
At least I've done mine and it gave significant improvement in space available.
Looks good and I see you fitted the exhaust the same as me on the outside of the hangar. What fork protection is that please?
thanks Oyabun. Do you have a picture of the underseat without any tools just for me to check what parts you have trimmed? I also want to do it.
What is the best tool to trim it?
I don't have a photo handy, but I just trimmed everything I could that wasn't load bearing. There is a lot you can take out. I just a box cutter and often had to cut strips out of each of the "fins" until it was flush. Wasn't too hard to do that way. Trying to cut them all at once didn't work very well.
Like Mark said. Cut off pretty much all internal stuff, unless structural or functional for my purpose. e.g. I kept the sides protecting against stuff falling off, but cut the support for the U lock.
I actually used multiple tools. Xacto knife and dremel with a large diameter very thin diamond cutoff wheel to cut off stuff. Sandpaper to clean off, and heat gun to finish.
Will try to snap a picture for tomorrow.
Hi Maxcielle - yes, as Mark and Oyabun have suggested above you can trim a lot of the 'ribbing' away under there, although I only took out as much as I needed for the tools/pouches I was using:
I just used a pair of angled side cutters and a Stanley knife in places, but equally you could tidy everything up with a Dremel tool too as Oyabun suggests - in fact I really ought to do that myself when I get a moment ;o)
Hope that helps...
Rather than a question a photo of one doing what they do well DSC01901 by herman munster, on Flickr
I followed Jenny’s posts and the under seat tool storage works fantastic. With a little adjusting I even got my chain lube to fit under the seat. I used a Dremel
Well, I recently ordered the L2 kit plus tubeless wheels for my '15.
Hopefully here by Halloween
Got a question about my level 1 suspension. Though I've gone to a very light fork oil, Bel Ray HVI suspension fluid 3W, and used 400ml/side in order to increase the size of the air volume vs oil volume, it seems as if the front of the bike is much firmer than the back. Though we have four and a half inches of travel, I'm using half of it. When I look at Max McAlester's videos on suspension set up, the front should be way more compliant than it is, and he's usually focussing on track bikes, which should be firmer than ours. I must say, however that as far as doing the job, the bike handles bad roads pretty well, especially compared to the original stock set up. I'm beginning to think that I'm over sprung in the front. If I were to use a lighter rate spring there would, no doubt be more preload required to keep the sag where it ought to be. So, Jenny and Oyabun, educate me please!
Hi Scoot' - it does sound to me that you might have too stiff a spring rate in there for your rider weight - that is assuming you've assembled everything correctly of course*...
How is the initial action - does the fork compress easily and then come to an abrupt step halfway through the travel, or is it the same stiffness/difficult to compress all the way through stroke? (keeping in mind the the Rally-Raid springs are linear, so there is no step-up in rate/stiffness approximately 1/3rd or half the way through the stroke as there is with the OEM springs).
The weight of the oil isn't going to make the suspension firmer, it's only going to slow the damping down the thicker it is (and conversely speed up the action if you use a thinner oil).
The air gap only really affects the travel towards the end of the stroke, which it sounds like you are not even reaching if you are only using half of your available travel - which is why it sounds like the spring is too stiff [for you] in the first place.
*The only other thing I can think of is are you sure you've assembled the new fork components correctly? - the shim valve stack should be fitted into the top of the damper rods with the bolt and nut facing downwards towards the ground.
Hope that gives you something to go on... as I always say, it's best to follow the fitting instructions for the initial set-up (although I'm aware that the instructions now suggest 10w oil, and personally I still prefer 5w - which is what we used originally), and then experiment with your own alternative settings once you've ridden the bike for a while and let everything bed-in.
I am starting with under the seat trimming. Need finishing touches.