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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by ktmmitch, Sep 22, 2014.
LED turn signals done
Thanks for doing the leg work Jenny
LED’s done bike back together with rebuilt forks and gators installed. Went for a short ride and the front end feels so much better. Not sure what it had in it for oil or oil volume but this seems like a huge improvement. I’ll try and get a video of the new turn signals up soon
I’ve been looking for an alternative to wearing a backpack. For long trips I Rok strap my back pack to my coyote bag and that has worked well. For day trips I’m looking to carry 2 one liter water bottles and a first aid kit as all my tools are under the seat. I fitted one of the possibles pouches on the rear using 2 small Rok straps. I think is going to work well for those non back pack rides.
The Led lights are nice. There is another forum member who bought cheap ones off Ebay.....waiting for that update. As for small bag, I use a slightly bigger bag by Enduristan called the XS Base Pack 6.5. 6.5 litres total space. I can put 2 x 2L fuel bottles in the roll bag. I believe your GL bag can hold one of these 2L fuel cans.
Hello Rally Raid and others. I recently purchased the tube type wheels (RRP 744) for my 2019 CB500X. I have since decided I would like to go tubeless. Is it possible to purchase the BARTubeless system for these wheels by itself and if so what does it take to install it? Is it something any competent wheel shop should be able to handle?
Hi sscardefield - it's a common misconception than because BART 'convert' wheels to tubeless, it is similar to other DIY methods... the fundamental difference with the BART system is that the centre band is vulcanised rubber, which uses a special machine to seal the centre well of the wheel rim with a formulated compound (which is warrantied for 4 years), not simply a goop and tape approach that Outex etc. use.
That is not to say you can't successfully seal suitable rims using the Outex/3M tape method - but it's success does rely on good (excellent) preparation of the surfaces, and ultimately it's longevity might be a concern as the seal is only as good as the adhesive - whereas BART uses a vulcanised 'rubber' polymer which seals itself all the way around the rim well.
photo. cross-section (from BART website) showing the sealed polymer on a rim with tubeless inner bead lips.
If you do want the BART system, then it is possible to have it retro-fitted (although they always prefer to work with brand new (ie. clean) wheels), but you do need to send it to them to be done. They don't have an agent fitting/facility in the US I'm afraid, so it would mean sending your wheels to Italy (although you can do this via Rally-Raid in the UK, but I doubt it would be much cheaper sending them via the UK than it would directly to Italy and back).
I hope that clarifies the situation for you and anyone in a similar position - and explains why Rally-Raid wheels come with the BART tubeless conversion pre-installed prior to sale/shipping.
As I say, a number of people have successfully used the Outex tape system to seal their wheels, so that is a reasonably good solution if you already own wheels with the correct tubeless bead seat (as the Rally-Raid rims have)... however, having a BART wheel on my personal bike, I can vouch for the thoroughness and quality of the proper vulcanised conversion.
Hope that helps...
Great information as usual, thanks. I have yet to mount my RR wheels, so they are still fresh and clean (and actually still in the original boxes) so I'll contact BART to see what I'd be looking at for the conversion. Thanks again.
No worries - happy to help, and it's a good question which I'm sure other people have too!
If you go to the BART website they are now offering a fitting service to existing wheels from around €90 per wheel - however, the main issue is going to be the shipping cost from the US to Italy and back I fear... that said, having a BART rear wheel myself, and already having plugged one puncture (compared to the four tubes I've changed in the past) - I'd say in the long run* it's worth it ;o)
*actually, I suspect the first time you plug-n-go a typical puncture, you'll think it was worth the additional expense!
Well that was quick, got a response in a couple minutes. Wanted to share so others can have an idea of what they'd be looking at. So the conversion is about $245 USD (at today's rates), which is the price listed on their website. But as expected the killer is the shipping... $400 USD for roundtrip. Ouch. Given that the RR shipping for everything was like $150 and I literally had that on my doorstep in two days, I was hoping for something like $200-250 for this.
As I bought my RRL2 500x used, I have faced the same shipping, mounting etc cost issue when considered the BARTubeless treatment retrogradely- so I've done the 3M tape treatment myself on those wheels.
I also have RR wheels on the ATAS I've built for my brother in law, which I've ordered with the BARTubeless treatment from RR.
Both work the same way. Imho it doesn't worth the shipping cost, do the Outex treatment on those spanking new wheels and buy fuel and new tires on the rest.
The sooner you start riding it the better. ;-)
I've got the Outex on both of my wheels and it works great. Worth getting a Cyclops or similar Tire Pressure Monitoring system so you can keep an eye on it. But so far it has been really good.
Having ridden a few seasons on RR Wheels + BART tubeless sealing I can say it is excellent. I was really surprised that the leak rate on the Sealed spoked wheels was less than the Honda Factory Cast tubeless wheels. So, if you are considering a set of RR wheels I would say that the up charge to get the Bart sealing while the wheels are new and in Europe is worth it. I had one screw flat during the time I owned my CB and I was rolling down the road 15 minutes from the time I felt it. It really is glorious to plug, pump and go again in that situation.
Of course, if you are straying far from the paved roads, it is still a good idea to carry tubes, tire irons, and everything else you need to get a tube in a tire that has suffered some more severe damage.
A request to the collective of current (and past) owners of Rally-Raid kitted CB500Xs…
Prompted by a conversation with Liz from Rally-Raid HQ the other day, she commented that they have been receiving an increasing number of enquires recently from potential customers asking if and where they could have their wheel and suspension upgrades professionally installed… and similarly I frequently get PMs here and on various other online forums asking much the same question.
Now I trust a good number of you are aware already that the Rally-Raid kits are designed to be straight-forward DIY fit (certainly with no cutting or welding required) - typically in a home garage with basic workshop tools... but that is not to say that everyone has the space/facilities or indeed even the inclination to undertake the conversion themselves, which is understandable especially if you have limited experience of typical DIY motorcycle maintenance tasks and procedures.
So we thought it might be a nice idea to try and put together a list of recommended workshops and dealers - based on those who have actual experience of fitting the Rally-Raid kits on your behalf - so that this information can be passed on to anyone with a similar enquiry.
Typically we’d be looking for the Name, Location (including country!) and Contact Information (eg. address/email/phone number or combination of such), together with an indication of their workshop labour rates*
*now I realise that some of you may have cut a deal with your mechanic, or had the fitting done as part of a combined invoice for example - and in those instances, if you’d prefer not to say how much you paid, that is quite understandable - hence asking for their general hourly rate so that other customers can budget accordingly.
So please feel free to either post your experiences here - including a brief description of the experience if you feel inclined... and/or perhaps PM me directly if you would rather pass on any information more anonymously for any reason, and I can compile the list and summarise it here on your behalf.
Obviously we can appreciate that over the years Rally-Raid kits have been sold worldwide, and indeed many countries themselves are huge, so we’re not likely to end up with a ‘dealer’ in every city by any means… however, we trust that by pooling our collective knowledge here, we will reasonably quickly be able to offer a list of suitable fitting locations for those willing to travel a reasonably distance if they are so inclined.
Looking forward to hearing your recommendations!
Hello Jenny and happy new year to everyone,
Do you know if rally raid has plans to develop and sell a set of vinyls/stickers (red/blue) for the CB500x 2019 like the ones for previous years?
Hi Alvaro - happy new year to you too!
I have chatted with John about this (soon after the new bike was launched), but currently their focus is on hard-parts - I'm not saying it won't happen, but it's unlikely in the near future I'm afraid.
I'd add that while the previous years' factory graphics could be considered a bit garish (the big red camo X on the 2014 and the bright yellow flashes on the 2015 for example), the 2019-on bikes' OEM graphics are a bit more subtle at least - so the aesthetic incentive is not quite as fundamental as it was with earlier iterations perhaps ;o)
But I agree, the HRC 'Heritage' graphics and the CRF style 'Rally' stripes do look great on the earlier bikes!
New to the thread and the forum. I have been reaearching the cb500x for a few months and am ready to take the plunge. I had a chance to ride a level 2 RR model yesterday. It met all my expectations but there were a couple of ergonomic issues. First, my right heel is sitting on the exhaust cover when I am standing on the peg. Not a deal breaker but not optimal either. I see that RR sells an aftermarket scorpion pipe (RRP 490) and the routing of the pipe on this unit seems to leave more room relative to the pegs. Can anyone comment if you experience with this product or on the foot / exhaust issue in general?
The second ergo issue was that when standing, the bars were a but low. This bike had the stock bars. I saw on the RR website that while they offer a riser for the their aftermarket bars, this is to compensate for the lower geometry of the bars themselves which makes it seem like there may not be any net bar heigh gain from doing this. Again, does anyone have experience with raising the bars on this bike after installing the RR kit?
Thanks for any advise.
I'm 6ft, and I've put roughly 3500 on the RR conversion in the last 3 months. Which is not a lot of miles compared to others on this forum, so take it for what it's worth.
The Scorpion pipe helps with my right heel wanting to rest on the exhaust, but it's not completely gone. I imagine that if anything I've just gotten used to foot positioning to avoid it, and the RR pegs do an amazing job giving you more real estate to play with in foot position. I'm not melting the heel or back of my boot or anything like that
Bars are a sixes thing. I have the Adv Fatbar with the riser, and it does make it more comfortable to stand, but the lack of cable length and the less severe backsweep of the bars means I'm reaching a little more forward from a sitting position. Not a big deal, as I'm super lanky, but there it is. I think JMo actually recommends/runs a different bar sweep because of this, but I'm not entirely sure. As everything, YMMV.
3 Step Hideaway?
Hi AdventureDan - Med.Jeeves has pretty much answered you there - the link pipe of the Scorpion Serket taper is a vast improvement compared to stock, and coupled with the larger [Rally-Raid] foot-pegs, you will rarely catch your heel on the exhaust with that combo now - I certainly don't, but if you have really big feet/boots you might - it is a limitation of the CB exhaust routing [close to the underside of the pegs] in that regard. However, I've been assured that Rally-Raid really do intend to have a proper solution to the general 'rear set' location of the footrest hangers ready soon.
As for the bars - you are correct that the risers that come as part of the LEVEL 2 suspension kit primarily locate the new bars at the same hight as the OEM bars with no risers, since the majority of aftermarket 'Fat bars' options have far less rise than the OEM Honda bars - the Renthal RC High bend for example having around 84mm rise...
For info. with the RC High bend bars fitted, the ends are approximately half an inch higher than standard, however, because the Renthals are also a straighter sweep and significantly wider, as you surmise, it is the length of the stock cables/brake hose, and most importantly actually the switchgear wiring which limits how much higher you can go.
That said, the main benefit of fitting a more enduro/MX sweep/rise bar to the CB is that it opens up the cockpit, which is an appreciable benefit if you are a larger/more broad shouldered rider for example, and the new ergonomics feel a lot more relaxed and comfortable, while at the same time putting you in slightly more of an elbows-out 'attack' position when standing/riding off-road.
If you are planning on fitting the LEVEL 2 suspension/wheels anyway, then I would definitely try the Renthals too as part of your upgrades - personally speaking I actually like being canted slightly forward over the bike when riding a machine of this size and weight in technical terrain - more like a trials bike in that regard. Most of the time I sit down when riding on trails (the RR suspension it designed to make long days in the saddle on unsurfaced roads and trails very comfortable) - no need to waist energy looking like a GS rider in a carpark eh? ;o)
Hope that helps...
ps. I've posted this photo a number of times in this thread already, but you can free up some additional cable length by removing the wire loop brackets either side of the ignition barrel as part of your prep. and using the cable ties/zip-ties to bundle them together as shown - this is my bike with the RR LEVEL 2 suspension and fat-bar risers, and ProTaper ADV bars which have 90mm rise and a slighter more laid-back sweep than the Renthal RC High bend bars with 84mm rise and a straighter sweep.
I have the same issue with my heel on the stock pipe (2018 model) and have just got used to it, changing the pegs to PivotPegz has the same issue.
As for the bar reach, I went the cheap route - until I decide on Level 1 or 2 - by installing some Motec risers on the stock bars. They are the shortest length offered and I didn’t have any struggle re-routing cables. I’m almost 5’10” with 32” inseam and find the setup comfortable. YMMV.
I switched from the factory bars to fat bars (RC high bend)
It was a vast improvement over the originals on my Rally Raid CB