Rally-Raid Products Honda CB500X

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by ktmmitch, Sep 22, 2014.

  1. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi BB’ - yes, for the stock wheels you want a 150/70x17 rear and 110/80x19 front size. That rear will fit on the RR spoked wheels too.

    You can fit Barbusters with heated grips - just follow the instructions for the OEM bar end removal (I’ve posted the info on here and the main CB thread a number of times over the years - no need to get medieval ;o)

    The fork gaiters I recommend are the ones on ebay - 42x60x250mm size, from a UK seller.

    Hope that helps!

    Jenny x
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  2. BjoernarBergen

    BjoernarBergen Adventurer

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    Thank you Jenny :)
  3. 32dgrz

    32dgrz Been here awhile

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    0611461F-40A8-44CB-901F-00BAF34409DE.jpeg
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  4. rickypanecatyl

    rickypanecatyl SE Asia adventure tours

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    For the past week or so my bike seemed to be complaining excessively hitting any kind of bump/pot holes but alas... I was too busy to check it out. So 2 nights ago, suddenly my seat fell down and I immediately stood up on the pegs as it felt my bike was breaking in 1/2.

    I popped the side covers and found that both bolts securing the "back frame" to the main frame had snapped and were sticking out! FWIW, I'm about 80KG - down 10KG or so from when I bought the bike. I do travel with often loaded panniers and topbox. 20200723_174142.jpg 20200723_174149.jpg 20200723_174226.jpg 20200723_180010.jpg

    I'm curious if that's happened to anyone else? Also are there stronger bolts out there? In the Honda parts book they're 10x45mm flange bolts, part # 90101-KTB-000.
  5. Twempie

    Twempie Been here awhile

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    Here's a photo of the 42x60x250mm fork gaiters. I haven't zip-tied them down yet, as my Level 2 RR upgrade is still in progress. I bought these directly from Pyramid Products in the UK. I quickly got over the fact that shipping costs are roughly the same as the price of the gaiters.

    Before mounting, I sprayed the inside with some TriFlow, to help fitting. The bottom of the gaiters fit over the bottom/black part of the tube just fine. The top of the gaiter just slides to the lower triple clamp - there's nothing for the gaiters to hold on to at the top, they slide easily, so I didn't punch any holes into them.

    I intend to zip tie the bottoms to the forks. I think I'll zip tie the tops as well, but not a death grip, just tight enough to help keep dirt out. It's a good idea to take a look under these from time to time to check for dirt and seal failures.

    [​IMG]
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  6. 32dgrz

    32dgrz Been here awhile

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    I zipped the top left the bottom loose. They don’t push up and easy to wipe down when needed
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  7. Mourist

    Mourist Been here awhile

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    Hey all! I just purchased the level 1 kit, and am in the process of installing it. I am pretty much a noob when it comes to anything mechanical, but the instructions have been fairly good so far. I changed the rear shock last night, and had a hard time understanding the directions when it came to mounting the shock on the top mounting point. There is a washer, where does it go? Inside between shock body and mounting point, or outside mounting point next to the nut? It doesn't make sense (in my head atleast) to place it next to the nut, but I would require an army of child laborers to place it next to shock body. All tips are welcome!
    Also, don't be like me, when I mounted the bash plate, I grinded off the entire front mounting tab for the heat shield, as I disregarded the first paragraph in the instruction manual to read through before starting. Oh well.......
  8. rickypanecatyl

    rickypanecatyl SE Asia adventure tours

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    Quick question on the rear shock preload...

    - Can I purchase the remote preload by itself and attach it to my level 2 shock?
    - Compared to turning the tightening collar, what is the range of the pre load ajuster? I.e. is the equivalent of 5 full turns?
    - Any ball park figure for how many turns you would do when adding 85KG? I.e. Me by by self versus me with a 55KG passenger and 30KG of luggage?
  9. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    You might need to wait for answer on your first two questions from someone closer to RR. My understanding is that all later model L2 shock is ready for fitting a hidraulic preload.
    Usual hydraulic preload adjusters are good for about 10mm adjustment range (eg my oem VFR Showa shock has 10mm range as well as my Wilbers fully adjustable shock).
    The last question regarding the adjustment is quite straightforward tho. Depending your rear spring rate, you have a spring in the range of 110-120N/mm, what means every mm of compression increases the stored force by roughly 100N or 10kg. However the linkage ratio is coming to play, meaning that every mm of shock travel will roughly translate to 2mms of suspension travel. So in case of roughly 85kgs of extra load (which is all above or beheind the rear axle, thus more-or less only weighting the rear shock), in theory one should add approx 14-15 mm of extra preload to have loaded sag at the same level.
  10. Twempie

    Twempie Been here awhile

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    Seeing the legend of the security bolts didn't prove as difficult as expected (the heads fell off after drilling and I easily unscrewed the remainder of the bolts with my Leatherman pliers), I waited for the other shoe to drop... and it did drop yesterday. Other than the description written below, the whole upgrade procedure is pretty straightforward - if you take your time, read the instructions thoroughly and watch Juan Browne's videos, then refer to back to them as you progress.

    One note if you have an ABS bike. Take a look at the short Rally Raid videos to supplement Juan's - RR videos are on an ABS bike, and they show there's a little bit of a different way install the shock absorber. Also, if you're installing new steering head bearings, the bottom bearings are a little trickier to hammer home because there's a hose that is close to the bottom of the head tube. Again, patience will get you through that part. I have a 2018 ABS.

    To the other shoe dropping:
    The Rally Raid rear wheel has a race/bushing that hangs loose inside the wheel, which makes mounting the rear wheel quite awkward when working alone. The jigsaw of parts all need to line up - two chain adjusters (held with blue painter's tape), the rear brake assembly that needs to slide on to the swing-arm tab, two collars on each side of the wheel that are only held by new grease. Then sliding in the axle from the left, and with the help of a Motion Pro lightweight T-handle poked into the hole to jimmy the loose collar into a position on the right side (takes an inordinate amount of time to get that right). I also employed the help of the 17mm shaft from my Baja No Pinch tool on the right side to help keep things aligned. The wheel is not light, and awkward to position when working alone.

    I've never seen a loose bushing in all the wheels I've changed over the years, and I hope this will seat correctly inside the wheel by the time the next tyre-change rolls around (pun intended).

    Rally Raid is very responsive to questions and the shipping times from the UK are fantastic.

    [​IMG]
  11. veriest1

    veriest1 Minimalist Gear Hoarder

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    I've been pondering a CB500X dolled up with all the RR goodies for a bit and actually reached out to Jenny recently about transitioning to one. She was probably more helpful than she realized in her abbreviated on-trail response and pushed me over the edge on keeping the 1150gsa as a sport tourer and as a two up machine for the few times the lady does want to ride. We seldom ride two up but when we do she loves the old Beemer. I can't believe I didn't think about that.

    As I alluded to, my current main ride is an 1150gsa. This seems weird but can anyone comment on the similarities on moving to the Honda from the big bike for all around riding? It looks like the CB is an upgrade almost all the way around and I'd only be giving up a marginal amount of top speed, pillion capability, and some low end grunt (despite the power to weight ratios being real similar). Those look like sacrifices I'd be willing to make for a lighter, more capable off road machine that would also take me (solo) out of Texas on the interstate with ease (and comfort?). It's 10 hours to get to the mountains out west from my place so I'm always looking a Goldilocks bike.

    I'm also 6'2" with a 34" inseam so was considering the taller seat from Seat Concepts. I'm used to having to make bikes fit me and I've had great experiences with their seats already and think the taller one would straighten my legs on the 500X. Any advise or insight into fitting the 500x for a guy my size would be great. Pictures would be better. :augie
  12. OneAUout

    OneAUout Adventurer

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    Hi Veriest1, I ride trials, and so have an affinity for precision and going slow. I Downgraded from a 1200Gs to 500x RallyRaid. I miss the 1200 on just two occasions. When carrying a pillion with lugage for two for any distance (the 500 has a short wheelbase) and when road riding in a group on a day ride and looking for that instant overtaking power to stay with a 1200 Triumph in front. I hate riding in groups at any time, so the second situation doesn't bother me. Doesn't mean I can't miss 100hp.

    And I rarely ride with a pillion. So... the 500xRR is to my mind, the best solo adv bike in the world. I think of it as the modern replacement to my RD07 Africa Twin. 500cc today does everything that 750cc used to do. Only in a more efficient and safe package. And fuel injection, and ABS, and pre wired for extras, and, and .... 500xRRs are keepers. Could do with a better dashboard screen, but way better than an 1150. Would I go back to a 1200? Nope. An 850GS has appeal. But as Juan says, the 500 is the largest size and weight for a TAT trail without the weight being an issue. And it will sit all day at 110kmh to get you there on a motorway in comfort that no 650 single will. So it's in the Goldilocks Zone.
  13. HandCanonShootr

    HandCanonShootr Been here awhile Supporter

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    My feelings exactly, after following my friends Lv3 CB on several ride & camps, I kept wondering why I needed 1200cc & a bike I COULD NOT LIFT. So i let my buddy know "If you ever want to sell her" Now she is making me smile. Most recently on a 4000Mile loop in the western USA, kept up with the AT & GSs sort of, was fantastic on FS roads, did 450-500mi days on highway. Mine a 2016 ABS in that nice Sand color. "What model is that, an Africa Twin?" the usual question, "Halfrica Twin" my reply pointing to the tank stickers...

    Ahh, that suspension, so good.
    YMMV
    Mike B
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  14. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Just to echo the comments above, if anyone was wondering quite how versatile and capable the CB500X (with the Rally-Raid L2 suspension and wheels fitted of course), do dip into my latest ride-report thread:

    https://advrider.com/f/threads/the-western-tattenback-2020.1452972/

    ...and check Juan’s video blog series on YouTube (direct links to a bumper of episodes in that thread), while I’ll be putting together a comprehensive written report (with plenty of photos) in my usual style, once I return home.

    It’s been another huge adventure!

    Jenny x
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  15. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Twempie - to clarify, that is not a ‘bushing’ it’s a spacer that sits between the two wheel bearings - and (as I explained in our pm exchange already), with a brand new wheel what has just had the bearings installed, it’s possible the spacer will be slightly loose until the wheel has been installed and the axle torqued up to snug everything together and the bearings fully seated against the spacer.

    Jenny x
  16. Twempie

    Twempie Been here awhile

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    Understood. I thought I'd post my experience with the rear wheel because I'm sure I'm not the first that's never seen a loose spacer like that, and this has never come up in all of my research and video watching for RR upgrades, so thanks for clarifying. It's all good. Ride safe.
  17. svo_jon

    svo_jon Adventurer

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    Anyone have a recommendation for extra brake disks for front and rear? I installed the original set on my rally raid rims and now want a set for the original rims.

    Thanks
    Jonathan
  18. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    I think you’re really going to be limited to OEM ones (and could do worse, they are good quality and last a long time), although you might find EBC or similar offer pattern replacements.

    Jx
  19. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    I'd also stay with oem for normal street use. Oem discs are made by sunstar, and they are great quality - albeit a but pricey.
    TenKate racing sells Moto Master, and Brembo discs for street and been selling floating front discs for competition use. The MotoMaster halo fixed disc has especially good price/value ratio.
    Unfortunately EBC doesn't make discs for the 500 series yet.
    Stay away from low cost Ali and eBay specials, specificly the arashi discs have been found problematic, due to being prone to cracking.
  20. Twempie

    Twempie Been here awhile

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    Almost there. I like the hooligan look, but that exhaust now looks out of place.

    [​IMG]