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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by sshbsn, May 30, 2019.
It's a big job. Whole front end must be disassembled. Then reassembled and adjusted.
I'll leave this here.
I can just imagine what was going thru the mind of the guy he passed when he saw a bagger coming up behind him. I've said it before and I'll say it again: the big girl can lift up her skirt and dance when called for.
I think the bike feels like new again. Used OE springs again and new fork seals fresh oil. Pretty labor intensive to re and re front end. They service bearings in neck. I have fresh tires American Elites done a few weeks ago on my FLTRU so all in I would say the bike rides a little better. I will flush coolant and abs at end of season . My bikes stay pretty close to Harley schedule and they seem to run really well. I am brisk but no road racer pretty consistently running about 10 over speed limit trying not to spend money on speeding tickets which are really expensive up here in the Great White North.
Thank you. I saw the front forks and steering head inspection on the maintenance schedule. I have an appointment at my Indy shop for brake flush at the end of July.
Does anyone have any opinion on changing spark plugs per the maintenance interval? Seems overly conservative to me.
Do you have ABS? If so how will they bleed the module?
Spark plugs on my '20 Road King have 34K miles. Bike starts just fine and gets close to 50MPG.
There's aftermarket software. It's not cheap so mostly shops have it.
The spark plug change interval based on time seemed stupid to me. When I was talking to the service writer about the 10k service on my bike, he said "We'll change the plugs as well, since it's been two years". I replied, "But the plugs only have 10k miles on them, surely they don't 'go bad' in two years just being in the engine."
I’ve got 24k miles on my RK. I’m having a hard time believing they need to be changed regardless of what the manual says. IIRC, the OEM plugs are not Iridium tipped so maybe they should be replaced at 50k. But if the engine is running well the plugs should be degrading extremely slowly. Any thoughts?
Plug change recommendation for M8 is 30K miles.
30k miles for standard plugs is pretty good compared to other manufacturers' recommendations. My R1200GS plug change is every 12k miles, which is basically when you are supposed to check valves. It's super super easy to change plugs on a boxer, though. I still waited until 24k to change mine.
However, my Suzuki V-Strom was a pain to get to the plugs, so when I changed those I put iridium plugs in it.
You have to pull the fuel tank to get at the right side plugs on an M8 but it's easy. Pull seat,4 fuel tank bolts,an electrical connector and a fuel line. However discharge the pressure on the fuel line before disconnecting or there can be trouble. Just unplug (gray) connector and start the bike. When it dies the pressure is gone.
The Vrod apparently needs one valve adjustment at about 20k. I haven't heard of anyone needing a second adjustment. Good thing as it involves dropping the engine to get the valve covers off. The frame comes apart to make it possible.
You don't have to remove frame rails to remove cam covers. Remove the muffler and remove the front engine mount allowing the engine to drop in the frame for clearance. It's not as bad as you'd think. The suggested interval is 10K. In my experience they need shims more often than most DOHC shim under bucket engine though.
Interesting. That is contrary to the experience of posters to the vrodforum,1130cccom,and the Vrod FB group, but what do they know.
Yeah I've only been at this since 1979 WTF do I know compared to some forum members?
Considering the First V-Rod was 2002.... And in 100,000 miles mine have needed adjusting once, at the 20,000 mile check. But what do I know.
The V-rod is a completely different engine than whats in a Road King. Why is that relevant ?
One big difference.........sample size. I worked on more VRods last month than you have in a lifetime. It was an unusual month for VRods though. Breakin' 'em out for season.
EDIT:Bottom line is the difference between working on your own shit and making a living at it. Getting the rear cam cover in there w/o fucking up the gasket placement takes skill. I posses that so dropping the engine via front motor mount works for me.......and a host of other experienced technicians.
And I've never had to adjust the Road King's valve train.
Apparently it's not. Never mind.