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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by sshbsn, May 30, 2019.
Since I have a lifetime maintenance warranty from the local hd shop, I guess I don't care.
Ok, now that everyone's valves are adjusted (I'll take the blame for that one, I mentioned valves first...)
Here's something interesting I saw in a post on the HD forums. An actual H-D footboard to peg conversion kit for the touring bikes. Of course, it doesn't come with foot pegs. And of course, it won't take the pegs you might have lying around, unless they are specifically for a 2018+ Softail. But still, I think these have only been available through the aftermarket for the touring bikes, until now.
Downside appears to be that the brackets put the pegs/mini-boards in different positions left to right. One is 2" further forward than the other, for some reason. Don't know if I'd like that.
Had a lot to say for not caring.
Footboards are one of the main reasons I ride a Touring Harley. Don't run highway pegs either. Plenty of room to move around for me.
Me too. And since I removed the heel shifter I can slide my feet back to almost mid position!
Silly me. I thought someone would be interested.
A friend of mine has a road glide. He changed the plugs at 30,000 and said they needed changing.
You guys bring up good questions. I try to do my own maintenance and had the same questions.
1. Maybe the spark plug interval is more to ensure that corrosion doesn't build up? The plug and head are galvanically dissimilar metals at the bottom of a cavity that can pool moisture if the bike sits.
2. Regarding the brake flush without cycling the ABS, my understanding is that brake fluid absorbs water over time and flushing is to remove water that can cause corrosion or boil and cause soft brakes. It seems to me that if the ABS module retained say 1/12 of the system volume of old fluid the water remaining would just be like starting 2 months in to a 24 month cycle after a proper flush. Cycling the ABS when riding should mix the remaining old fluid with the new?
3. Regarding steering head bearings, I asked the local shop and they said that the bearings don't fail catastrophically and are cheap so wait until they go bad and then just replace them rather than service them since it is a big job.
4. My forks need servicing (52k miles). My 2017 forks were such an improvement over my 2010 forks that they made the shocks feel harsh. A Fox rep said their non-adjustable shocks would give a comfortable ride and let me demo them and I bought them. I didn't notice a really huge difference in the shocks but did start to notice that then the forks started to feel harsh. I'm not sure if it was the improvement in the shocks or that the forks need servicing but I ordered the Fox fork cartridge. I figured that while I was in there I would do the cartridge. Maybe fresh oil is all they needed?
I dont agree with your number 3, Im not sure which year you have or what year they made some changes on how to check the head bearings for play but its definitely important to check. I have a 19 with 4500 miles and mine were slightly loose and it would cause a wobble at highway speeds. I have a Street Glide and the tech did not take much time (maybe 20 minutes) to check it but I would imagine its even easier on the Road King.
Adjustment and service are different. Service the bearings when called for is best practice.
Thanks for the reply. Now I have a few more questions:
I put iridium plugs in last change, I'd like to extend the interval but could the plugs seize in the heads?
If I use a vacuum pump to flush the brakes and keep the reservoir topped up where will the air in the ABS module come from?
If the steering head bearings are in adjustment but not serviced wouldn't there be slop as the bearing wear before the bearings failed?
BTW I have a Road Glide Ultra but this thread has really good info
1.)Depends on the brand. NGK claims their plugs won't seize. I always use a touch of high nickel content anti-seize. Careful if you do it conducts electricity and can short a plug causing a misfire. Keep it a few threads away from the tip and don't be sloppy. A small amount does the job.....if you choose to do that.
2.)It comes from the moisture in the system reaching boiling point and releasing the O from H2O into the fluid. Brakes are not sealed systems simply closed and the methanol based DOT4 attracts moisture from the atmosphere.
Get yourself one of these
3.)In over 40 years I've never seen tapered roller steering head bearing fail. Wear out? Sure and it's a slow process. The specification (AKA fall away) for bearing adjustment takes into account proper lubrication and if you fail to do that they're not correctly adjusted. That's all there is to that.
Ball type bearings use a torque spec but lack the durability of tapered rollers due to a small surface area. Although the bearings in my '04 Aprilia Tuono (read: lots of air time for front wheel) are angular contact ball bearings and have survived 150K miles.....with proper service and adjustment.
Hey @anotherguy. If I may…. A q?
2017 Road King with ABS. Is there a way a mere mortal without access to the H-D Digital Tech thing can effectively and safely replace the brake fluid?
I’m at the >2yr mark, wanna get clean juice in there. Dealership is backlogged for weeks out.
I’ve seen YouTubes where they say if ya bleed it through and don’t get air in the system, then ride and activate ABS a couple times, and repeat, that works.
What say ye? That good? Something else more better?
Nah you can get that stuff. It's proprietary software. I really don't know if that's effective or not. It won't hurt things and fresh fluid is best so if you do it I'd follow up with a DT ABS service.
have you tried other dealerships? I can't believe they won't find time for an ABS service.
I ordered a King Tour Pak (Vivid Black w/ Silver pinstripe) and the associated hardware for Elvis today. P&A guy said it would be up to four weeks. I told Mrs.RD she'd be comfortable all the way to Salt Lake!
The price was difficult to accept but I can't see myself being happy commuting on an Ultra Limited or RGU. I like the unobstructed view of the pavement and no electronics to become outdated.
Yea... I may need to call around. I like supporting the local dealership, but brakes is brakes.
It's not critical but important. If ya gotta wait a bit it's OK. Just don't wait a year.
Since we're on brakes....
Anyone had a slight "surging/bucking/grabbing" action caused by light front brake application at slow speeds (like rolling to a stop at an intersection)? It's not really "pulsing" like you'd get with warped rotors, or something built up on your pads/rotor surface, but just something that makes the bike a little herky jerky when trying to come to a stop smoothly. Rear brake, no issue, and yes I typically use the rear brake for anything slow speed anyway, but I became especially aware on my last ride when slowing that last bit at stop lights that it was hard to stay smooth and controlled due to the slight surging sensation caused by the front brake.
My GS doesn't do this, and I can come to complete stop using just light front brake, and still be balanced with my feet on the pegs.
I was thinking about taking some Scotchbrite to the rotors, and brake cleaner, and see if that changes anything. May also be a stuck rotor bushing keeping the rotor from floating.
No, I don't have any unusual response or feedback from the front brake. I get a little squeak occasionally from the rear brake.
I'm getting better at using the rear brake in slow speed maneuvers. It's possible that I rode my RD350 back in the day for nearly 10,000 miles without ever touch the rear brake.