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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by notmybikemodelname, Jun 22, 2010.
Yeah, exactly. I thought with epoxy you had to wait 2 hours till it's gone hard but still tacky. Something about it sticking to your finger without leaving a fingerprint?
I started using unwaxed poly resin, but now need to figure out after curing how I can get it to stop being sticky on the sides that aren't laid onto a waxed surface. Like with the seat where I just painted over everything and tried to cover it with a insufficient layer of PVA. I unfortunately waited 2 hours with waxed poly resin for the seat. So will this delaminate over time? It's on there pretty solid at the moment.
Well I sure made a mess of things. Figures that I didn't find this thread until last night, after I'd poured some more resin to try and fill some holes in the mold. Didn't bond at all in most places, but bonded well enough in other spots that I think I have to start all over. Bah.
Depends on the system. We had a slow kick that would take overnight in a hot room to cure completely during the cool months even.
When it comes to shaping foam, what kind of densities do you prefer to work with? The marine supply store we went to only had 2lb foam and that seems too soft. Want to order more, but am wondering what density I should try next.
I personally prefer 4lb foam for shaping, usually Divincell or Klegecell, but only for cored pieces. If I'm making a "phantom" core part, I will always go 1.5 lb styro (EPS). But know that EPS foam can onlt be laminated with Epoxy, unless you seal the foam before laminating. For sealing I use white glue like Elmer's.
Thanks. I'll try that next time. Would like something that's a little bit firmer, but not any more difficult to work with than it needs to be.
By the way, what's happening with your project? Any progress? Looking forward to seeing the new subframe come together.
So I thought I'd be able to use the microbeads as a dye but apparently it's not thick enough. Or am I not making it thick enough? I was thinking I would be able to prevent having to paint the thing if I'd use a dye in the epoxy. Considering how ugly the kevlar weaves are. Even the coloured ones.
I reckon I may have less sanding on my hands with this one. I've got 2 and a bit plastic cups of beads in about 250ml epoxy and the clay colour still shines through.
Would a proper dye do it or am I looking at a painting session in the near future?
If the beads you speak of are micro balloons, they have zero structural value. They are a lightweight filler. Won't this seriously affect strength. What about carbon fibre powder mixed with the epoxy?
Exactly correct. Microbaloons are for fairing, or smoothing the surface as a lightweight sanding filler. It will always have the caly appearance and it is very pourous which allows alot of moisture to enter your part.
Really Taco? you think the carbon/kevlar blends are ugly ? :huh
I think they're about as sexy as Alyssa Milano, Sophia Vergara or Halle Berry. Or as all three of them in an orgy
Been riding the KTM alot. Should have some new photos near completion in the next week or so.
Now that is a blend. I can't imagine having 2 distinct colours in a weave for the total surface area. I reckon it would be crap.
So there goes the idea of using is as a dye. So would adding normal dyes in the resin completely block out the weave colours?
Twice. And they were both worthy of photos and one of a hospital bed for a while. But I just no how to tuck and roll...........alcohol helps.
Bloody temperatures just took a tumble and it looks like it'll be a cold winter. Night temps could be below 50 in a month. Will I need to get some heat lamps for overnight curing?
Make a small heating cabinet from foil coated insulation and a space heater. It will get well over 120f.
I'm getting sick and tired of repairing my kickstand. I'm thinking that I'm going to try the trailtech mod you did. Which model did you use, and would you use the same one if you had to do it over again?
JD, I used the DR400 kickstand. Honestly, I just took a shot in the dark when deciding and have no regrets.
I'm sure there's another way to do it, but in order to get it the highest I could and to swing the farthest out of the way, I also removed my lower sub-frame, added a new composite skidplate and rerouted my exhaust pipe to get about 2.5" more ground clearance. It's a lot of work, but well worth the clearance for the type of riding I do.