Rekluse Auto Clutch for F800GS

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by toro618, Apr 18, 2012.

  1. Lost-n-Lovin-It

    Lost-n-Lovin-It Lurker

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    Got out between rain clouds to put some more test miles on the new clutch and so far I'm very impressed. I'm riding better in the mud than I used to ride on the dry. So far the clutch has been flawless. Super smooth application, no stalling and clutch lever works like stock in the twisties.

    Took the bike on a stretch of super tight very technical single track, full steering lock to lock kind of stuff. No way I would do this in the wet on a stock clutch. With the Rekluse I only dabbed a toe down once the whole time because my front tire took a bit of a slide.

    Can't remember the last time I laughed so hard or smiled so wide riding in the wet.

    Cheers.
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  2. pklop

    pklop Motorcycle addict

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    I keep wondering if this thing can be something for me but i can't figure it out.

    Why are people with decent or even good clutching skills saying that this thing transforms their riding. Why can they drive difficult terrain better - since they already had good clutching skills it shouldn't matter. Is it really just because they have one thing less to worry about, free up brain-processing power. Or is it a confidence thing?

    Anyhow, what i am wondering most is this;
    While driving tarmac i often lug the engine a little bit, i let it drop to 2000 rpm and drive it there for a while before the speed (and rpms) picks up again. So i'm a lazy shifter. With the rekluse this would mean a constantly slipping clutch i guess so i will burn out the clutch plates within a year. Right? Or am i missing something.

    I would miss the capability to lug the engine without worrying about my clutch plates.
    At what rpms does your Rekluse starting to engage? I mean when you driving at high rpms and are slowing down (so the rpms drops).
    Is that the same rpms as when the clutch disengages when you speed up? (so the rpms rises)
    I once saw it reported as being 2800 rpms but that's way to high for me.

    Last; i have nobody with a F800GS seen yet with a LHRB (left hand rear brake) system. Don't you guys drive up hills and such or are you confident that you always make it up there? (that is a gamble) Otherwise this thing could be dangerous as there is no way of keeping the bike from sliding down a hill if you come to a stop before the top of the hill. I've seen this happen and one guy i know broke his ribs because he didn't know the proper technique for keeping the bike sliding down hill (pulling the front brake won't work and the rear foot pedal can't be reached).
  3. Robbo60

    Robbo60 Looking 4 Adventure

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    You are spot on. I have a Rekluse and I love it but my riding group are known to do hills that have dire consequences if you fail to make the top. Not long ago on way up to top of Mt Pinnibar I intentionally stopped to help a fallen rider (stupid stupid old man I am; I broke the #1 rule), as it was a planned stop I had no trouble using the front and rear brake; came to a gentle stop but we then slid backwards both wheels locked up and unable to stop I gently let it fall to the high side; but this could have been very ugly indeed.
    I was riding with Chris Birch the other day and said he hates the Rekluse for this very issue. Nothing was going to work on the damp super steep climb toward Pinnibar but a LHRB (prefer thumb operated with an over-press lock-on) is something I want / need.
    To be fair I suspect 99.9% of F800GS machines do not see this kind of terrain. The Rekluse suits me because I am 56 yo but ride with 18yo lunatics and 35yo's who should know better and some my age who were once national enduro champs who REALLY should know better and the Rekluse gets me to the top close to 100% of the time whereas before the Rekluse it was maybe 90% of the time, it is esp handy on climbs with big bastard track width rocks / rock steps. Yes with Rekluse my tired old brain has more processing power to spare....at 56 I get more tired and tired earlier than the young guns on their 690R's and smaller bikes. No idea what RPM it engages or disengages, I never look down at the instruments.


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  4. Lost-n-Lovin-It

    Lost-n-Lovin-It Lurker

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    The Reluse definitely frees up more brain power for watching your line and enjoying the ride. I'm not a hill climber so I can't speak to that. For in town riding I wouldn't worry about lugging the engine. I believe the stock Rekluse begins to engage around 1600 rpm and is fully engaged around 2000 rpm. The kit comes with springs that let you fine tune the engagement point if you want, but the stock set up has felt great so far for me. Kind of makes me feel like a kid again just playing and having fun on my old Honda 90 in the dirt. Back when riding was just fun and not a workout. Hard to explain, you just have to try one and see if it puts a smile on your face like it did for me.
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  5. pklop

    pklop Motorcycle addict

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    If it is fully engaged at 2000 rpm then that would work for me.
    Still the omission of a LHRB bothers me (couldn't find a good system).
    But you guys are so enthusiastic, it's contagious :thumb it's getting diffcult NOT to try one :yum
  6. Snowy

    Snowy Long timer

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    On the lowest setting it fully engages about 2200 from memory. It looks like it's engaged from 2000 if I rely on the tacho.

    And yes, the inability to hold on a hill is a pain. You have to pick where you stop very carefully. But in climbing ability it is really the next level, especially on a technical climb. You will very quickly find yourself in places where stopping is not an option, and crashing will result in a helicopter ride out of the bush.

    I don't think the Rekluse is the definitive answer to all Adventure riders. But it can take riders to a new level of competency, or make existing riding a lot more fun because it removes a whole data stream from your brain. The problem, if you can call it that, is that this opens up a whole new world of hurt when you get a quarter tonne beast into some pretty exotic locations. Especially if you do it with a pillion.

    It's all part of a learning curve. If you aren't learning on the run, I think riding becomes stale and boring. It has to be a challenge. It has to contain moments where you are physically and mentally challenged and mentally stimulated to remain "fun". The Rekluse definitely helps with this. You'll take the bike where it just shouldn't go. You'll find new and exotic ways to crash.

    I have a few "Snowy" rules that I find are self evident: You'll always crash going uphill. You'll always fall downhill when you do. The steeper the hill, the further you'll fall. The older you get, the worse you land. The worse you land, the harder it is to get out of bed on Monday morning.

    Rekluse has helped create a few very bad Monday mornings for me. I sincerely thank them for the adventures and memories they have given my wife and I. We've had some awesome adventures and quality time together in the bush. When I talked about a new bike, the wife's first question was "can you get a Rekluse for it?". From someone who doesn't even ride, but spends her time on the back clinging to the bike for her life, I reckon that's a good endorsement.
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  7. puckpuck

    puckpuck Been here awhile

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    Two weeks in, around town in congested traffic work so good. Gonna have to see when off-road the next 3 weekends.
  8. FinTec

    FinTec Been here awhile

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    Question for those familiar with the Rekluse for our 800s: does the Rekluse engage when you start the bike?

    To clarify, lets say you where in gear, did NOT have the clutch lever in, however, the "clutch engaged" switch on the level was disabled (so the motor will be allowed to start in gear). In this situation would the bike try to lurch forward during starting or are the rpm's low enough that it would start in gear, but not try to drive forward? Obviously, no throttle added at startup, just start and idle.

    I am doing some experiments on a lighter clutch lever and may have to eliminate the clutch switch. If I can start the bike in gear with the Rekluse, that would help for some aspects of this mod. But I have no experience at all with the Rekluse and would like to hear some opinions on this.

    ZeTrailOut and Snowy: I believe I have the solution to your quest for a lighter feeling clutch lever (non-hydraulic). Give me a bit to finalize testing and will share.
  9. Reaver

    Reaver How Did I Get Here?

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    Hey Fin.

    I feel it wouldn't lurch. A warm engine doesn't rev on start then settle back to idle. Mine is set with the heaviest springs installed for a higher engagement rpm. Without adding throttle, should the clutch engage on start then it would rather quickly slow to below engagement rpm so any lurch would be minimal. Of course, my switches work so I can't try it. Start your engine at various times/temps and see what rpm it peaks at.
  10. FinTec

    FinTec Been here awhile

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    Excellent Reaver, thanks for input. So walked out to stone cold bike, keyed up and just tapped the start, no hand on throttle. Start RPM seemed to be 1100 to 1150, then when fired never saw it go over 1200 rpm. Pretty much just bounced around 1200 rpm from there on. I suspect when warm, even slightly lower overall.

    If you are VERY bored and have a couple of Pasifico's in you Reaver, try these two experiments (or anyone with a Rekluse for that matter who is willing to do):

    - In gear, idling, slowly throttle-up and tell me where (rpm) the bike starts rolling forward (Rekluse engages) . Understood you are running all heavy springs for later engagement, but still a good test to see. Actually as I think about it, would be beat to have three rpm numbers for this for the three configuration of springs.

    - OK, this one might be asking too much and I see visions of you and the bike lurching into the nearest wall. So do at own risk!: Put in gear, reach under clutch lever where that switch is, hold switch closed with small tool ( I used a small screw driver), then tap the start button and see if starts without engaging Rekluse. If it was me, I would put the front wheel up against a wall. Or heck, maybe put on center stand and just see if rear wheel spins at start-up. Safest way for sure.

    Only if bored......
  11. Reaver

    Reaver How Did I Get Here?

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    Dammit Fin! Now you owe me.

    To be fair tho, I think it started with my burnt reflector.......


    [​IMG]
  12. FinTec

    FinTec Been here awhile

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    I was thinking something like this....

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  13. Reaver

    Reaver How Did I Get Here?

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    Ok, the cold bike results.

    Peaked at 2000 on startup in N, then settled under 1500. There is always a slight drag while in gear and the clutch released.
    Started it in gear and as suspected, the bike moved a bit till the rpm lowered. The normal drag on the clutch slowed the starter motor a bit but no worse than starting it in N at 0F I'm sure.

    Nothing scary at all. A bit of brake would stop that.

    Mine pulls away with force at about 1750 rpm. There is less clutch drag on a hot engine so I think you're good there.
  14. puckpuck

    puckpuck Been here awhile

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    I have not done this yet. Trying to imagine going very technical downhill, usually when stalled, have to quickly grab the clutch and restart.

    With Rekluse: While going down, engine off, in gear, with clutch released. The bike would start? But since it Rekluse, the bike wouldn't stall, and you don't need to do that, unless you accidentally shut the engine off while moving.
  15. FinTec

    FinTec Been here awhile

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    Excellent information senior! Thank you.

    Interesting yours started at 2000 rpm then to 1500. I never saw over 1200 on my cold motor.

    Still would be a neat data logging event to run each spring set-up and record the different rpm point they engage. But I guess you better love pulling your engine cover off a lot.

    OK, this tells me this will work then for what I want to do which is not have a clutch lever with the switch on it. Basically, if you do this you have two options if no switch used:

    1. Run with the switch open (plug just undone) and then to start motor you always have to be in neutral
    2. Or short the plug and the system thinks the clutch is in all the time. Allowing you to start the motor in gear
    I don't like #1 as finding neutral can be a pain sometime and the lazy guy in all off us just pulls in the clutch, starts bike, bang the shifter down a few times to make sure in 1st and off you go. Also, I have been in some off road situations where I need to start the bike in gear.

    #2 is better, but you know have the ability to be that jack-ass who tries to make his bike run off the starter motor and save gas. Of course, you can learn to always bring in the clutch, but it still happens.

    But with he Rekluse #2 now works! Even in gear bike with start and not lurch forward. Unless you think you are in neutral and blip the throttle and jump forward. Has anyone done this with their Rekluse? Thought they where in Neutral, hit some throttle and gotten a surprise?
  16. Reaver

    Reaver How Did I Get Here?

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    Do you sleep at night?
  17. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha........
  18. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    I think the reason yours hops higher, while starting Fin, is perhaps the fueling software. I started many times in gear without the clutch. Not because I wanted to, but it was one of the test they asked to do on a regular basis. Bike never creped....crooped, or Crapped for that matter. I did the latter when I shifted to first forgetting the clutch, on my 55 hp 470 thumper after the light turned green. Careful when you cross train on BB thumpers.
  19. FinTec

    FinTec Been here awhile

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    ......:snore
  20. oldswimr

    oldswimr Flatlander

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    I'm interested in hearing about the lighter clutch lever when you figure it out, thanks!

    rlm