removing conventional fork seals without disassembly

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by xtphreak, Feb 17, 2007.

  1. xtphreak

    xtphreak from B4 "adventure bikes"

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    ok lazy bastid I is

    whoops

    efficent person I am


    tried something a little different this afternoon

    GPz needed fork seals

    originals been in there since 1984

    and a couple thousand miles :evil



    here's the deal

    remove fork caps

    pull springs

    pull fork legs

    remove dust seals, circlips, shim washers (everything that holds the oil seal in or could hold it in, like a shim washer slipped to the side)

    fill fork with 10W-40 ('cause I had a bottle sitting there) to the bottom of the cap threads ... object is to have as little air inside as possible

    reinstall fork caps (both inner & outer on GPz)

    ok on the GPz, kawasaki had a brain fart on the air forks
    instead of a sniffle valve in each cap or leg, they drilled an itty-bitty hole in the fork tube and used a double collar thingy connected with a tube.

    plugged that with a pc of inner tube and a hose clamp

    put fork over a pan

    put a wood block between the fork bottom and a wall
    [​IMG]
    put a bottle jack on the other end with sufficent blocks to reach a fairly immovable object (deck post)
    [​IMG]
    put rag over seal area to forestall a geyser of oil (I went slow and didn't need it, but if I hadn't I would have for sure)

    as you extend the jack, slowly, the fork tries to compress, but oil don't compress very well, so the pressure seeks the point of least resistance ... i.e. rubber seal without any retaining devices (you did remove them right??)


    tadaaa

    as I stroked the jack handle, I could see the seal easing out :clap

    [​IMG]

    be aware that sometimes you should wait a minute between strokes as the seal will try to remain in place.

    I removed the spring because I'm a wimp :nod

    I do not test things with methods that STORE ENERGY that can hurt my tender ass. :nono

    Like SPRINGS that compress and then when the jack or a block slips ... BWANG!!!

    the fork extends quickly, catching a finger or gonad or shin or just jumps off and lands on the floor with a sickening clatter.

    or AIR.

    Damnit air will act like a spring :nod

    same same

    if you need to test something for pressure (tank, pipe, etc) fill it almost full with water or oil and then apply air in a very smalll volume. if it bursts, 100 cc of air at 100 psig will not hurt as bad as 5 cu ft of air at 100 psig.

    ok

    it worked really good

    forks are draining overnight

    a pc of 1 1/2" PVC conduit is perzactly the right diameter to slip ove the fork leg but still fit into the seal area to tap the new seal into place

    replace the washer, circlip, dust seal on each ... reinstall fork legs into triple tree

    refill to spec with new forking oil

    reinstall springs, caps (on GPz inner caps only) handlebars, outer caps, front wheel, brakes, fairing,

    take for a test ride (who cares if it's only 22 outside??)


    next week we'll discuss replacing the piston rings thru the tailpipe :D
    #1
  2. knybanjo

    knybanjo kinda slow

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    :clap
    :thumb

    :lurk
    #2
  3. xtphreak

    xtphreak from B4 "adventure bikes"

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    just stay tuned

    same bat time
    same bat channel


    :wave
    #3
  4. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    :lol3 :lol3
    #4
  5. norton73

    norton73 drinkin' Supporter

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    Pretty inventive there, Ron. Looking forward to the piston ring post, as I've got this to do in the near future;
    [​IMG]
    #5
  6. xtphreak

    xtphreak from B4 "adventure bikes"

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    that should be a piece of cake with that easy radius curve



    :rofl

    hiya Andy :wave


    coming to the Rendezvous THIS year or you gonna come up with another excuse?? :ear
    #6
  7. cpatstone

    cpatstone N00b, obviously.

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    I wanna know how many times you checked the porch post. :rofl
    #7
  8. xtphreak

    xtphreak from B4 "adventure bikes"

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    once to start with :huh


    it's set good and deep and concreted too


    started to use the 12X12 on the back deck, but figured the seal wouldn't be that stubborn ... and they're 12 feet apart















    and no convenient old deck to work on



    if I got oil on the hot tub deck phreakwife'd have my a$$
    #8
  9. norton73

    norton73 drinkin' Supporter

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    Mebbee yes, mebbee no. :dunno



    That's way to far out for me to plan :norton
    #9
  10. Motomech

    Motomech Adventurer in Latin Amer.

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    How about the easy way;

    1]Put the inner tube in a vise(soft jaws or a rag, as not to scratch).

    2]Put pan under to catch old oil.

    3]Put 8m/m Allen socket attached to air wrench into the holding bolt located in the recess at the bottom of the lower fork leg.

    4]While pulling on lower fork leg, zap out holding bolt with air wrench.

    Vola, it's apart.

    This can be done without removing the fork tubes from the clamps.
    #10
  11. xtphreak

    xtphreak from B4 "adventure bikes"

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    1) but you pulled the steering head to get it up to the bench to "...Put the inner tube in a vise... This can be done without removing the fork tubes from the clamps"???

    if it's in the clamps (triple trees) why the vise??

    and if it's on the bench what's the difference?

    still have to pull wheel


    2) requires air wrench & compressor to run it

    bottle jack at HF = $8
    walmart 10W-40 oil = $1.24 (actually free since it was open and sitting on the shelf)

    easy is as easy does :dunno


    I like my way
    #11
  12. Motomech

    Motomech Adventurer in Latin Amer.

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    I didn't DO anything, you did.
    I'm just telling you the way I used to replace fork seals when I was working as a tech.
    If all that was required was fork seals and oil, then the inner tubes would not be removed from the clamps.
    I would just put the frt. end of the bike in the air(center stand and tie downs on the back) with the wheel removed and pop off the lower legs as described above.
    Once I replaced the seals, I would put the bolt back into the lower leg with a dab of silicone, fill the leg with the prescribed amount and weight oil and zap it back on.
    This was one of the best jobs in the shop because it payed two hr.s and I could do it in less than one.
    #12
  13. rowansride

    rowansride recreational menace

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    I just used a screwdriver... Maybe I should try something more difficult next time.
    Looking forward to writeup on head cleaning using scanning electron microscope and carrion beetles.
    #13
  14. xtphreak

    xtphreak from B4 "adventure bikes"

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    sure ya can use a screwdriver or an ice pick or anything else as long as you're ok with nicks and scratches

    go fer it & getter done
    #14
  15. knybanjo

    knybanjo kinda slow

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    :waveI just gave your "lazy" method a try and it worked just fine!
    On the old DR650 it just seemed easier to pull the leg off the bike than to separate the 2 halves.

    took out spring
    added a bit of oil
    replaced cap
    seal eased right on out with just a few pumps!:thumb

    I didn't have any PVC pipe big enough to make a seal driver.....but.....
    I did find a cardboard tube the right size and the new seals snapped right into place!:D

    I guess I should have taken a pic or 2.........
    #15
  16. xtphreak

    xtphreak from B4 "adventure bikes"

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    Hiya :wave

    I found it easier to pull the forks out too

    I's a lazy ...err efficent bastidg

    I gotta find somewhere to host me pics and relink the helpful stuff


    maybe just repost all that TB trash :dunno
    #16