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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by jaystonewee, Feb 15, 2019.
I'm curious what your opinion will be on the 17 front compared to the 19!
I expect to confirm what you've experienced in your initial rides as that's what my idea was when I started this transformation... Not to get ahead of myself, but I'm considering thinning the heard so GSA with 17" should double like my weekend road-warrior (not that it is not w 19") as well as touring rig (like a RT but less all that plastic which I'm not fan of) thus one of my other bikes may be moving outta garage, providing that I succeed in my intentions... We'll see - it's a journey and I enjoy it, wherever it takes me!!
It's a shame that we're quite a bit apart geographically as it'd be interesting to see how your GS with same set-up behaves (for me) vs. you trying out my GSA and see what that would be alike wearing same "shoes"... Oh well, one day we may make it happen!!
Thanks for taking the lead and congrats once more on completing the task with gusto - job well done!!
I have a question.
5mm was machined off the mating surface of the rear wheel?
Also you say near new set of r1200rs wheels. So they are wheels off a 2018 or 2017 RS?
And thank you for the write up. I have a gsa myself and keep thinking about a XR but this could be a happy medium for me between the two.
The MY doesn't matter as all LC R12R/RT/RS have same size front/rear wheels so if you think you need to machine the lugs' seating surface you'd do it the same way - the difference in color: RT has lighter color wheels while RS has darker... Haven't seen R12R in a while so not sure what shade those wheels are...
MY? Manufacturing year?
“If I think I need to machine the concave part of the wheel where the wheel studs go? Idk that’s why I am asking OP.
Maybe it’s ealry for me and not enough coffee but you went from wheel size to machining to color I’m so confused. Haha
MY is commonly referred to Model Year (can be different than mfg year) in automotive world which is the world where I reside for a living so I use it without thinking that others may not follow, sorry...
I had an exchange with @jaystonewee on the topic of machining the lugs' seating surface earlier (somewhere in "What did you do to your GS/A..." thread) as I don't think that step is necessary for what it does at the end. That was suggested to him by Rennkuh (translated to Racing Cow), a company in Germany, who sells entire set-up of wheels, spacers etc etc to fit 17" wheels off of other LC bikes onto LC GS/A.
For what it is essentially a task with same goal, to fit 17" wheel on my '16 GSA, I'm going around it in a different way by not machining lugs' seating surfaces, leaving them as they are, and deal with clearance issues in the other matter... Thus, my comment "if you think you need to..." as, for me, that's not a must step but rather optional and same can be achieved otherwise, depending on your preference... I dislike with passion doing irreversible changes to my bikes or their parts and avoid that at all cost unless is absolutely necessary, which in this case, it isn't...
I tried to explain my take on the topic to get your creative juices going together with more caffeine intake - that's how I get all of my crazy ideas this early...
So the purpose of the machining to me sounded like the op had clearance issue with the oem exhaust and mud flap off the final drive which was because the hub part of the wheel was thicker than the Gs hub and pushed the wheel out too far to the right. I think that would also make the bike ride or track along a straight line at a angle.
And machining down the other side of the wheel where the wheels studs go would not fix that issue?
I am not exactly sure what year RS my wheels came from; but as mentioned above the RT/RS wheels are the same size but different colors.
The removal of 5mm from the face of the bolt up surface where the wheel mounts to the drive flange/hub is primarily to improve the offset and get it closer to centerline of the bike. @Lead Wrist is doing an alternate method of providing clearance between the muffler and the tire without changing offset of the wheel.
I can get more photos if that would help, just let me know what you are specifically looking for!
I never cared for the pr4 Tires because I didn’t like the drop off feeling they gave when riding a bit more aggressive in twisties and that combination with the “new” 17” on the GS probably feels like the front wants to turn in and make the bars go full lock.
Removing material from the RS wheel allows it to be easily swapped with the spoked rear. It's the simplest solution to improve offset while allowing for easy wheel changes between street tires and dirt tires, which is the main objective of this endeavor IMHO. Modifying the drive flange would require disassembly of the swingarm, and would cause the spoked rear to have incorrect offset relative to the RS wheel. Not to mention it probably wouldn't be a good idea to mess with that part anyway, seeing as the strength of the part would be compromised along with less thickness for the wheel bolts to thread into.
There'll be clearance issues and that's a given - GS/A wheel is 4.5" wide for 170mm wide tire and you're trying to fit R/RS/RT 5.5" wide wheel w 180mm tire. And on top of that, I originally had Akrapovic slip-on which is even wider (as compared to OE) in the area where it "intersects" with the tire so that's first thing that had to go on my bike.
I didn't have an opportunity to get both wheels at the same time so, last year, I came across just a rear wheel off of '16 RS and that's what I've been running for ~6 months last year, without any machining or else done to the wheel! I did some preliminary measurements as I was eager to try it out, concluded that the offset difference btw GSA spoked and RS cast wheel wasn't as much and went riding. As I haven't experienced any handling or other ill issues, I just kept riding like that. I did have to get a spacer at the muffler attachment point (below rear seat) to space out the OE muffler so I can clear the tire and that's all I did to the rear.
As the rear tire is near its life end, when I take it off to fit new tire, I'll get a bit more precise measurements of the offset for both GS and RS wheel as all this talk made me very curious what the actual offsets are alike relative to what the calculated offset needs to be to fit RS 5.5" wide wheel instead of GS's... The "possum scraper" is off center and kinda looks funny on my bike as well, as a result of wider tire under it, but that's absolutely last item I'll tend to, if at all, as it's just the edge of the tire that sticks out and isn't covered...
My front wheel was just acquired and it's on its way so we'll see how the front conversion is going to go as I also have a slightly different approach to do that too as compared to what @jaystonewee did!
So, welcome to the GS/A SuperMotard "club" and bring the ideas and questions on - more of us get involved, more will benefit and potentially follow which is all great in my book!!
16 GS with a spare rear wheel. The second, cast wheel, tpm is found rather quickly but when putting stock spoke wheel back on the tpm can take weeks???
I have not experienced anything like that. Going back and forth several times btw my original spoked wheels and new-to-me cast wheels and most it'll take for other TPMS to wake up is riding for no longer than 2mi... Every time, without skipping a beat, either front or rear wheel!!
If it took you weeks for OE TPMS to wake up, then you are probably dealing with something that isn't "normal"... Maybe you have battery failing in your OE wheel??
so glad i found this thread!
Shameless bump...Denver to Tail of the Dragon and a stop at the MOA rally, and back again.
Nice cruise on US129
RS wheels were flawless
Nice to see you're putting the wheelz into good use - good on ya!!
So anyone have a set of RT/RS/R wheels they'd like to get rid of? I'm nearing the end of the A41's on the bike now, would love to replace them with the 17's at the same time.
I found mine on ebay with tires/rotors/etc ready to roll for less than what BMW would charge for just the wheels. Took me a little while. Keep an eye open!
How did you end up ordering the adapter kit from Rennkuh.de? It doesn't give me an option to ship to the United States.
From their Home page, under Shop tab, hover the mouse under R1200/R1250LC, you'll see 4 submenus, then choose 2nd ie. Rader and Fahrwerk and you'll see the adapters as first option... Try linky below - hope it works...
Now, that adapter kit is, somewhat, necessary only if you'll use GS axle and 320mm rotors from R/RS/RT. If you get axle from R/RS/RT you won't need axle adapters and if you reuse GS 305mm rotors you won't need rotor adapters thus can save the expense... Ie. that adapter kit is one but not only way to do the conversion...