Replacing 2015 1190 cam chain tensioners

Discussion in 'Ridiculous streetbikes with 6 CPUs and too much HP' started by buell, Sep 14, 2018 at 3:17 PM.

  1. buell

    buell n00b

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    Hi all, has anyone attempted changing out their tensioners? I have 34000 km on my bike and after getting back home after a 400 km day ride in 30+ degree weather the noise is quite frightening, especially on the right cylinder (rear) just under the water pump. A clacking noise! I know these engines have noisy cam chains. On start up the noise is fine. So I picked up the parts to replace the tensioners and ripped the tank off to get at it but could not see how to replace the right side without removing the motor mount?? Any insight on how to replace is appreciated. Also is it necessary to have the piston at TDC? Nice touch was that the new tensioners come pre-set for install. Thanks in advance for your knowledge. Cheers
    #1
  2. kirk824

    kirk824 Adventurer

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    which ever tensioner you're replacing that cylinder NEEDS to be at TDC with the little lock bolt screwed into the right side of the motor locking the crank and keeping it from moving. If you move the throttle bodies out of the way you can get to the rear cylinder tensioner with no obstructions.
    #2
  3. buell

    buell n00b

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    Thanks for the info! I guess I was looking at it the lazy man way. Makes sense now, Thank you
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  4. Insane rider

    Insane rider Adventurer

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    You don’t need to remove the TB...
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  5. buell

    buell n00b

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    Please explain how you removed yours w/o removing the TB. I thought I might have been possible with a ratchet box end wrench, but I don't have one in my tool box,yet.:-) Thank you for the reply. Cheers
    #5
  6. Insane rider

    Insane rider Adventurer

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    Just follow the DIY thread for valve adjustment, you’ll figure it out how I did it.
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  7. buell

    buell n00b

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    Thank you
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  8. whipit1k

    whipit1k Been here awhile

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    Next time I look at my valves I will install some of those manual tensioners
    #8
    Capo Rick likes this.
  9. kirk824

    kirk824 Adventurer

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    https://advrider.com/f/threads/valve-adjustment-on-a-1290.1334227/
    thats a good resource. no need to remove the TB's just move them out of the way. it makes life a lot easier and takes maybe 5 min to do( two band clamps and 4 plugs)
    #9
  10. nige 123

    nige 123 Adventurer

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    The cylinder your working on must be locked at TDC ON THE FIRING STROKE WHEN THE TWO DOTS ON THE CAM WHEEELS ARE IN LINE. this is critical. No need to touch throttle bodies. Just take all the bolts out of the engine mount and rotate it slightly, no need to remove. Mine also had a bad clacking noise. I replaced the tensioner with new KTM hydraulic ones, noise stayed the same. Smooth as you like over 3000 though! If anyone knows the cause of this noise I’d love to know, it’s the only thing I dislike about the bike, they are all mechanically noisy, with the same deep clack sound, some more than others. Round town at low revs I hate it! clack clack!
    #10
  11. Capo Rick

    Capo Rick Please understand...

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    Many have realized this and elected to go with manual adjusters
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  12. nige 123

    nige 123 Adventurer

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    Yeah I know, I’m not entirely convinced the noise is in fact the cam chains. Anyone on here actually had the clack noise and cured it with the manual tensioners? Any KTM techs on here that can help? Anyone very familiar with this engines internals?
    #12
  13. nige 123

    nige 123 Adventurer

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    Meant to say. I heard a new 790 running the other day. That sounded like a bag of spanner’s as well. How come the japs can make quiet engines, and the 3 cyl Triumphs have a mechanical whine to die for. Smooth as.
    #13
  14. zoink

    zoink Adventurer

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    Is the noise you're talking about like the sound this 1090 is making? (11:34). Like a slapping/ticking sound? Mine does the same thing and I've been told it's the CCT/cam chain and is normal.

    #14
  15. nige 123

    nige 123 Adventurer

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    Yep, that’s the sound. Clacking describes it well, not convinced it’s the cam chains though, they would be more of a regular rustle?
    #15
  16. Capo Rick

    Capo Rick Please understand...

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    Can chain noise from poor tensioning is a clacking sound from the rapid loosening and tightening of the chain track. Valve spring pressure constantly cycling is the cause
    #16
  17. brianbrannon

    brianbrannon They'll ride up with wear

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    Suzuki DRZ400 is just as clackety
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  18. nige 123

    nige 123 Adventurer

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    Hi Rick. I had a 990r before, when first started it used to clack prior to oil pressure coming up. This was only on starting, hot or cold. Just lasted a second or two, Didn’t make the noise on idle at all. My 1190 engine only seems to really quiten off around 3000 rpm. I’ve had it from new. More regular oil and filter than KTM suggest and I use the motorex 10/50 and KTM filters as instructed. The noise on the 990 was faster and sounded to be higher up in the engine. I’ve listened to my 1190 alongside others, I know it’s not alone in making this noise. However a lot of owners just don’t care. Have you fitted manual tensioners to an 1190 and found it an instant fix?
    #18
  19. nige 123

    nige 123 Adventurer

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    The 990 had gear linked cams and hence a shorter chain. Any reason?
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  20. zoink

    zoink Adventurer

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    So are you saying this is normal operation due to poor design, or that the tensioner needs to be replaced? The other member said the noise continued after replacing his..
    #20