Hi, i couldn't understand why we use those extra bolts? Can someone briefly explain it please. and it is said that there are white markings on the plates and they have to be 120' apart from each other.What exactly is meant by "120' apart?" Thanks
I've not been into a modern clutch, but assume that it is the same as on the older bikes. After the other three screws are removed you release spring pressure on the clutch by loosening the nuts on the extra bolts. When installing a clutch you do the opposite... install the bolts then tighten the nuts until the spring is compressed. Then you can install half of the proper retaining screws, back out the extra bolts, and finally install the rest of the retaining screws. 120 DEGREES apart. Yeah, on some fonts the little degree symbol looks like a '.
Don't fuck up that one. There is a paint marking on three of the 5 clutch components, pressure plate, backing plate and flywheel. Find the paint marking on each one; some were white on mine and some were blue paint. The clutch plate and spring plate are not an issue. If you set all three 120 degrees apart you have set the three heavy spots as far from each other as you can in 360 degrees. Makes sense! I know this drill well, I just did a clutch job and was informed by a mechanic that I just needed to get the heavy spot on the two plates 120 degrees apart. Wrong! I had a very nasty vibration that I never had before. I pulled it back apart and this time found the flywheel marking and set them all 120 degrees apart and sure enough, shes back to ben smooth again! BTW, Im getn really good at tearing this beast down
I hate to admit it but...just in case someone was thinking of just cleaning their brand new clutch off with break clean and maybe some of that industrial strength purple degreaser, it won't work. I had just replaced my slave cylinder and clutch last year due to the bearing in the slave cylinder failing (yes there is a little bearing inside of the slave cylinder), the brake fluid traveled along the clutch actuator shaft and wetted my clutch causing it to slip. I replaced both parts, life is good right? Nope, the break fluid and the seal for the transmission are not best of buddies, the clutch is now covered with synthetic GL-5 gear lube from the tranny, slippery shit. I'm getting good at the clutch replacement job. Tear it down again. What I learned: 1. If your clutch fluid turns black all of the sudden, replace your slave cylinder. Then you don't have to deal with point 2 and 3. 2. If you do a slave cylinder replacement, also replace the front and back transmission seals, not just the little felt thing that goes around the little shaft thing, that goes up and pushes the little plate thing. AND don't be a cheap bastard and try to clean that really good lubricant from your slightly used $160 clutch. The clutch actuator shaft goes through the input shaft for the tranny, so there are three seals total for the rotating parts, they are cheap and somewhat easy to replace. 3. Don't try to clean off the clutch. It is an exercise in false economy. But, no matter what you do...have fun!
Hi All, I'm very frustrated because the two rear main seals of my R1100GS (year 1998) leaks again and maybe the breathing hole near of the outer seal (nearest to the clutch) was closed by the badly positioned seal (so, it's the bigger seal) and now there is an abnormal pressure inside the engine. For example if I open the oil filler cap after the stop, it blows and the main seal in front of the engine just strated to leaking:eek1 ! Now, I have to pull apart the bike and replace both seals once again. I need all your tips to install correctly that seals. First of all, if I will buy a new pair seal what is the correct depht of the seal which can close the breathing hole??? It must be in the same level with the crank housing flange or what? Today I heard the the seals has to be installed in dry seriously. This was said by the man who maintaining police BMW bikes (all in the capital of our country). What is the official opinion? An last but not least. Is that anybody here who intalled the seals without the special BMW tool??? Does it works? Thanks
I've wondered about that. Never tried it because of the amount of work needed to fix it if you guessed wrong. I've a set of rear brake pads that I dropped in gear oil. Because they are easy to replace and because I've still got front brakes to slow me down I've thrown the contaminated pads in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with a degreaser and cooked them for a while. Next time I need to change rear pads I'll install them in the bike and see if the ultrasonic cleaner worked.
Just coming to the end of disassembly for a spline lube. Clutch dust cleaned away and I'm seeing a minor "weep" behind the flywheel. 2000 1150 with 90k miles. It's so minor I'm tempted to get on with my day. I've had much worse weeps from Chevrolet rear mains with no issue so I ask the question. Do I go further or check again at 130k miles? Decisions drcool
We (as in GB and I) are going to unsticky this thread. I suggest that those who NEED to access it regularly bookmark it. We want to use stickies more for their intended use, that being to draw attention to the larger issues this forum deals with. A link will also be included in the FAQ (which will stay stickied). JJ
I have a 95 GS, using this thread as a guide I'm in the process of replacing my rear main and a few other items while I'm in there. Once I removed the rear main I noticed that there is another seal behind it and its pushed in at the bottom further than the top. The main was the same way. recessed 2 mm at the bottom and flush at the top. My dealer replaced the last one so I called them. They claim that after 12/97 they put 2 seals in instead of the one for all year models, including prior year models. The way I understand it it should be for bikes after 12/97 that require 2 seals not bikes that were built prior to the 12/97 date. My bike is a 95, built 2/95. I believe there should only be one seal. Can anyone steer me to the correct answer? Thanks Kevin
I agree with you. There is enough room to put 2 seals in the earlier bikes but I'm not sure if there would be a benefit. The airspace between seals on the later bikes is vented, while double seals on an earlier bike would trap the air between them. So any oil that made it past the first seal would get pushed in both directions through air expansion when heated. This could also possibly suck oil into the airspace during cooling cycles. The 2 seals that apply to the later bikes are different dimensions. The inside one (installed first) is the one that is different from the earlier bikes. It is slightly smaller (2mm). The parts fiche only has the 12/1997 note for the inside seal, implying that the earlier bikes don't use it. They actually can't use it because it's too small. If there is a service bulletin on adding an extra seal to earlier bikes, I would like to see it! BTW, I think if your seals were installed unevenly somebody did a boo boo. The last time I replaced a seal on an early bike I used a single seal installed flush with the case.
A late answer to the question before I go onto my story. You should only have one seal because the newer bikes changed the design of the crankshaft slightly, in that they become a scavenge air pump for the crankcase. Whereas, the older ones are just like an automotive rear main seal. Anyway onto my story, and, hopefully I can add some knowledge. I pulled my tranny because I had the dreaded third gear skip. I replaced my M94 transmission with an M97 I picked up off of fleabay. When I get the tranny off I notice the rear main seal is weeping. I pulled the clutch pack to take a look and measure the clutch. It's still good, but near the end so I decide that I might as well do it while I'm in there. Well, to make a long story short the first rear seal I put in rolled and I didn't catch it. Oil poured out. So I have to go back in and replace the seal again. This time it doesn't roll, but does leak again. Now I'm left to figure out what went wrong. I've read everything I can, including the internet, a factory manual, the Clymer manual, and a Haynes manual. I also talk to several beemer mechanics. Nothing is clear. The problem seems to be the changes to the design of the seal itself and the changes to the aforementioned crankshaft. I finally got a definitive answer from the tech line at A&S BMW. The seal mounts flush with the case. It is NOT recessed at all. Also, it must be mounted dry. You can use a little oil or assembly lube on the outer portion of the seal, but NEVER any onto the Teflon seal itself. I mounted it recessed and used assembly lube on the lip. According to the tech, that's the problem. Since there was some confusion in this outstanding thread, I thought I would clarify with some expert help from A&S. A big thanks to Dehauge and others who posted here.
I replaced the seal on my old '95GS 3 times . The first time I tryed to make a tool to put the seal on with , & the seal leaked . The second time I got the factory tool , & it leaked again . The manual says to hand form the seal , but I talked to the dealer macanics & was told to put it on the tool & let it set 30 minets then put it on . & they said the manual is wrong , as the seal is different that what the manual is talking about. Anyway , the third time is the charm .
