Report from Northern Coastal Sonora

Discussion in 'Latin America' started by strika62, Jul 5, 2016.

  1. strika62

    strika62 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2013
    Oddometer:
    23
    Location:
    Bahia de Kino, Sonora, Mexico

    Current Road and Security Conditions (June 2016)

    Coastal Highway Puerto Penasco to Santo Tomas Easy riding, a couple of short construction zones. Military checkpoint gone. Still an Aduana checkpoint outside Rocky Point.

    Santo Tomas to Puerto Lobos Minimal traffic. Last year's issues with night time hold ups near Lobos have been resolved. The "sand on highway" warning sign is worth slowing down for. Still no gas in Lobos.

    Puerto Lobos to Puerto Libertad New pot holes just before Libertad. There are a couple of nosy (and very bored) policemen occasionally stationed at the entry to the town.

    Puerto Libertad The conversion of the generating plant to natural gas is complete! No more plumes of brown smoke. Libertad is turning into a pleasant seaside town. There's even a good coffeeshop. The PEMEX station is hard to find - ask. Camping on the beach to the south of town is straightforward. Expect a visit from the police if you're under the palapas - they're nice guys who want to help. Camping further south by the Boojum forest is spectacular. I've camped there several times this year.

    Puerto Libertad to Bahia de Kino/Kino Bay via paved highway Generally good. Lots of repaving happening in the southern section. Often a Federal Police checkpoint 2/3rds of the way south.

    Coastal Road through Desemboque de Los Seris to Bahia de Kino Very sandy between the highway turnoff and Desemboque. Great/fantastic dirt ride from Desemboque to Punta Chueca. Memo, the Seri highwayman, has not robbed anyone recently - he is in Punta Chueca under the watchful eye of the Seri militia. If in doubt, check in with Mike the Quaker in Desemboque before proceeding south. Camping around the Seri villages of Desemboque and Punta Chueca is not recommended. But anywhere else on this spectacular coastline is fine. This is southern Sonoran Desert at its best.

    Bahia de Kino/Kino Bay A great little town that just keeps getting better. Sure I'm biased: I live here. No security concerns recently. The Eco Bay hotel and Islandia Marina campground are still the best deals in town. Beach camping north of town is easy but a bit isolated. Follow the signs to Playa Esthela. Camping around the estuary to the south of town is also very nice but there will be bugs if it has rained in the past month. Dengue has arrived with a vengeance in Bahia de Kino. Take precautions: sleep in a tent and use bug juice. Only a problem if there are mosquitoes (obviously).

    Bahia de Kino to Guaymas/San Carlosvia Cutoff Much of this route has been repaved. This coastline is being developed but there's still good access and great riding/exploring between Tastiota and Himalaya. The only area of concern is the itinerant fishing community of Sahuimaro between Tastiota and Kino. There have been several reports of robberies from camps near the village. The people who live here are refugees from Sinaloa and are not very friendly (they haven't been welcomed by fishermen from Bahia de Kino who they compete with).

    Hope that's helpful. Come visit!
    #1
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  2. 1Man2Wheels

    1Man2Wheels Been here awhile

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    Location:
    Englewood, CO
    Planning to ride down there in February so this is a very helpful post. Thanks!
    #2
  3. strika62

    strika62 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2013
    Oddometer:
    23
    Location:
    Bahia de Kino, Sonora, Mexico
    Please visit us here in Bahia de Kino. PM me for contact info.
    #3
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  4. 1Man2Wheels

    1Man2Wheels Been here awhile

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    PM sent!
    #4
  5. Catracho

    Catracho Adventurer

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    After reading Bandit Roads (aka god's middle finger) I'm ready to come do some exploring in your area
    Usually I just rush to Mazatlan.
    I'll be leaving early December for a few month journey in Mex to see some previously unvisited places
    #5
  6. strika62

    strika62 Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Bahia de Kino, Sonora, Mexico
    Glad to hear you'll be coming our way. As for the book, I didn't care for it much. I've spent time in the same area and experienced little of what he described. Seemed more interested in telling exciting stories than doing justice to the fine people of the Sierra. That said, I'm careful to get invited before I wander.
    #6
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  7. strika62

    strika62 Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Bahia de Kino, Sonora, Mexico
    I've had a few questions regarding the Seri Militia. Here's a good vid that describes who they are:
    #7
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  8. SilverBullet

    SilverBullet Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2009
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    Harmaston, TX
    Great info, thanks. Any recent updates/changes?

    Especially interested in the dirt section, "Coastal Road through Desemboque de Los Seris to Bahia de Kino". Big adventure bike friendly? Will be traveling light w/o heavy panniers and with capable dirt tires.

    Pemex is still open in Puerto Libertad?

    _
    #8
  9. stormdog

    stormdog Long timer

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    1,545
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    Almost Southern Oregon
    The Pemex in Puerto Libertard was open last December
    I believe it only had Regular
    #9
  10. ApexJeff

    ApexJeff Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    Oddometer:
    368
    Location:
    Tucson, Bahia de Kino
    Current Road and Security Conditions (June 2016)

    Coastal Highway Puerto Penasco to Santo Tomas Easy riding, a couple of short construction zones. Military checkpoint gone. Still an Aduana checkpoint outside Rocky Point.

    Santo Tomas to Puerto Lobos Minimal traffic. Last year's issues with night time hold ups near Lobos have been resolved. The "sand on highway" warning sign is worth slowing down for. Still no gas in Lobos.

    Puerto Lobos to Puerto Libertad New pot holes just before Libertad. There are a couple of nosy (and very bored) policemen occasionally stationed at the entry to the town.

    Puerto Libertad The conversion of the generating plant to natural gas is complete! No more plumes of brown smoke. Libertad is turning into a pleasant seaside town. There's even a good coffeeshop. The PEMEX station is hard to find - ask. Camping on the beach to the south of town is straightforward. Expect a visit from the police if you're under the palapas - they're nice guys who want to help. Camping further south by the Boojum forest is spectacular. I've camped there several times this year.

    Puerto Libertad to Bahia de Kino/Kino Bay via paved highway Generally good. Lots of repaving happening in the southern section. Often a Federal Police checkpoint 2/3rds of the way south.

    Coastal Road through Desemboque de Los Seris to Bahia de Kino Very sandy between the highway turnoff and Desemboque. Great/fantastic dirt ride from Desemboque to Punta Chueca. Memo, the Seri highwayman, has not robbed anyone recently - he is in Punta Chueca under the watchful eye of the Seri militia. If in doubt, check in with Mike the Quaker in Desemboque before proceeding south. Camping around the Seri villages of Desemboque and Punta Chueca is not recommended. But anywhere else on this spectacular coastline is fine. This is southern Sonoran Desert at its best.

    Bahia de Kino/Kino Bay A great little town that just keeps getting better. Sure I'm biased: I live here. No security concerns recently. The Eco Bay hotel and Islandia Marina campground are still the best deals in town. Beach camping north of town is easy but a bit isolated. Follow the signs to Playa Esthela. Camping around the estuary to the south of town is also very nice but there will be bugs if it has rained in the past month. Dengue has arrived with a vengeance in Bahia de Kino. Take precautions: sleep in a tent and use bug juice. Only a problem if there are mosquitoes (obviously).

    Bahia de Kino to Guaymas/San Carlosvia Cutoff Much of this route has been repaved. This coastline is being developed but there's still good access and great riding/exploring between Tastiota and Himalaya. The only area of concern is the itinerant fishing community of Sahuimaro between Tastiota and Kino. There have been several reports of robberies from camps near the village. The people who live here are refugees from Sinaloa and are not very friendly (they haven't been welcomed by fishermen from Bahia de Kino who they compete with).

    Hope that's helpful. Come visit!
    [/QUOTE]


    This would be a perfect ride after TurkeyCreeks event in Bannachuci
    Big Moto? Good question, I have 1200 and I don't I am not that good in deep sand, and usually ride solo. If you partner up try it, I remember the deep sand north of Desembugue it used to be durable before a hurricane about 10 years ago.
    If you come down later this year, Iet me know I have a ATV in Kino and might tag along
    Libertad Pemex should be open , only I time when they ran out,. always someone will sell it out of drums.
    Small, little, clean hotel a couple blocks away.
    #10
  11. SilverBullet

    SilverBullet Been here awhile

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    My plan is for riding it later this week, either Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Still have work to clear out before I can leave so day is unsure. Bike is a Super Tenere with full protection so drops don't stop the ride. I'm ok with sand but really deep sand for 100 km I'm not a happy rider. I guess "deep" is the subjective part. I'm never too proud to admit defeat, turn around and detour. Do I remember a post from you riding it on a KLR? How challenging for that bike?

    Possibly returning next month also for TurkeyCreek's gathering and would be up for repeating the ride. That is if the first attempt doesn't sour me.

    _
    #11
  12. ApexJeff

    ApexJeff Been here awhile

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    Location:
    Tucson, Bahia de Kino
    #12
  13. ApexJeff

    ApexJeff Been here awhile

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    it's great for a KLR, It's not 100 of deep sand, just in a few spots. I think your Tenere would be fine, sounds like you have the skills.I would try and find a partner. Check with strika62 on Seri's, he has great contacts. Stop in at Prescott College if you can't reach him.
    #13
  14. stormdog

    stormdog Long timer

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    Location:
    Almost Southern Oregon
    Is there an actual coastal road between Bahia Kino and Guaymas?
    The route I take is through mostly farm land and comes out at 15 next to the Pemex.
    The pavement is so bad in spots everyone is driving in the dirt beside the road.
    #14
  15. ApexJeff

    ApexJeff Been here awhile

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    The old timers told me they used to be able to run the beach, they now charge to use the San Nicholas dunes. It's hard to get past the shrimp farms. I tried the same thing, different roads but they all T and you have to go east to the stop by the Pemex and check point then south to 15 and the Pemex. Same road that I hit a turkey buzzard and destroyed my Ridgeline windshields.looks like you get down to Kino and area. I won't be back until Dec.

    IMG_20140102_114904_369-SNOW.gif
    #15
  16. Throttlemeister

    Throttlemeister Long timer Super Supporter

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    Ah man sad to hear this I was looking forward to heading down to the Cortez after TC meet if I get to get away. Hope you're having a hell of a go to it down South.
    #16
  17. ApexJeff

    ApexJeff Been here awhile

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    Location:
    Tucson, Bahia de Kino
    #17
  18. ApexJeff

    ApexJeff Been here awhile

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    Pm sent
    #18
  19. ApexJeff

    ApexJeff Been here awhile

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    KINO to Desembque (1).JPG Kino North 315.JPG Kino North 313.JPG KINO to Desembque (2).JPG Do I remember a post from you riding it on a KLR? How challenging for that bike?

    A couple pictures,, these are from 2010, not that much has changed except there is pavement from Kino to Punta Chueca KINO to Desembque (1).JPG Kino North 315.JPG
    _[
    #19
  20. 1Man2Wheels

    1Man2Wheels Been here awhile

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    Inspired by the OP's report, I just rode down the coast road from Rocky Point to Kino. What a nice ride!

    It could be done easily in a day but I decided to overnight in Puerto Libertad (Hotel Libertad - clean basic for 400mxn). The road to Puerto Libertad from Rocky Point is mostly in perfect shape, apart from a portion leading up to Customs Station mentioned above. The Pemex in Puerto Libertad is actually a block further west from where Google Maps marks it.

    From Puerto Libertad to Kino, the road is in less good shape, starting about 20 miles from Puerto Libertad. Lots of potholes and some sandy spots, and one section of dirt diversion around a new bridge that's close to finished. However a street bike should have no problem on this road, albeit at a leisurely pace. Gas up before you go and bring plenty of water!,there are zero services on most of the road.
    #20