Repowering a KTM 640 Adventure

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Z50R, Oct 19, 2017.

  1. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    There are two tabs on the front of the rack adjacent to the seat for tying things to. They always jab the passenger in the bum. They stick straight up and would wear into the bottom of the new bag. They got lopped off immediately.

    Next I started I toying with the new bender and wasted tubing trying learn how to use it and sort an idea out.

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    My thought is that I want the grab handles unobstructed so they can continue to function as intended when not carrying a bag on the rack. The wings will need to be tied in on the bottom to have any ability to withstand a tipover. I was feeling happy with this arrangement until I realized that the bends on the rack were not orthagonal and mine were. Oops! Lets see what we can do to salvage this.

    I arranged the rack on the tablesaw (level flat cast iron surface) and measured angles with a protractor and a level.

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    Looking at my tube and how much length I had left, I would not have enough to run the long extension I was aiming at, I only have enough left in these pieces for the back of the wings. I decided to make those parts and worry about the lower connection later.

    I was able to level the bender and then measure relative bends with the level and protractor there too. A 77.5 angle was used to offset the bends that tie the wing to the rack relative to the loop at the bottom of the wings.

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    The existing bend can be seen at it's new offset here:

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  2. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    The first bend was lopped off at an appropriate height and fishmouthed around the rack.

    IMG_0773.JPG

    Bend distances and angles were calculated and the process repeated for the other arm.

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    After a test fit the entire thing was recreated in mirror form and both were welded in place.

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    That is as far as I got. I am not satisfied right now. I like how the wing looks as it leaves the rack but I don't like how it terminates at the bottom. The impact load of a tipover is concentrated on just the tip of the wing. I am contemplating how to tie the wing into the mount while spreading the load around. The rear tube is also too long without any bracing and I expect it to bend if used for my intended purpose of pulling a stuck bike out of the mud.

    More thinking time needed.
    woods wizard likes this.
  3. dbarale

    dbarale Squiddly slow

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    Maybe?

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  4. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    I was trying to make a bar following your bottom yellow line when I said to myself "Stop forcing the issue" and stopped working last night.

    I don't want anything welded to the grab bar like your top yellow line. That is the "Oh shit, things just got real" grab spot for the passenger. I ride single track 2 up a few times a year so it needs to be there and unobstructed.

    The tricky part is to keep this thing only as heavy as it truely needs to be. I might cut it all off and try again. I really don't know yet.
  5. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    I like it as is. Is there a way to use a curved cross bar from one side to the other, maybe bolt on if needed, to accommodate removal?
  6. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    So uh yah, vapor lock. Didn't think of that one, thanks for the pointer. I made a steel fuel pump mount that pulls the fuel lines further from the exhaust at the expense of making them more exposed to debris strikes. I am not too worried though, they are still inboard of the petcock and I haven't lost one of those yet.

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  7. Lambo

    Lambo Been here awhile

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    The Mk II mount looks good.
  8. Bigbore4

    Bigbore4 Long timer

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    Much gooder. With your skill pretty easy to fab up a guard for it if you are concerned aboot it being out in the breeze.
  9. Roofchop

    Roofchop Hands up mother stickers, this is a f**k up!

    Joined:
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    Great fab work!
    What is the fuel hose you're using?
    Will it collapse when used as Vacuum line? (maybe not now but later when you are in the middle of nowhere)
    Maybe when it gets hot from the engine?
    Just a thought....

    Dave
  10. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    The fuel lines are what the local KTM store sells. It says parts unlimited on the side so no info on material. It is stiff enough that it does not collapse under vacuum. I ran it for a year with no problem in the application. The only time I had issues with melting was after direct contact with the exhaust pipe so no normal heat problems either.

    I appreciate everyone calling it as they see it, it helps me see this project from other prospectives. Thanks and please keep it up.
    Roofchop likes this.
  11. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    Today I pulled the trigger on the KC light posted a page or two back. It should be in next week. I also ordered a couple of inches of very large diameter aluminum tubing to make a mount for the light.

    I keep trying to get more tubing to finish the rack but for one reason or another I still haven't gotten ahold of what I need. Instead I keep picking off other projects as time allows.

    Today's project is the license plate mount. For the past four years I have ran a vertical license plate screwed to the plastic fender. Every year a different guy inspecting my bike tells me that he really shouldn't but he'll pass it this time and if anyone asks, it wasn't like that when it came for inspection. Every year the guy hesitates a little longer. This past year I was going to fail inspection for the plate and squishy rear brakes until the inspector dropped my bike on accident. He was so embarrassed that he slapped a sticker on it and fixed the brakes for free. Occasionally a cop will tell me that my plate is illegal. I tell them that the bike is a grey-market import, that is how it comes from the factory, and it passed inspection like that. They seem to buy the story but I really gotta put a horizontal plate mount on this while I am addressing all the other issues.

    Being a license plate around me is a dangerous proposition. I am abusive to my vehicles. Front plates on my cars find themselves plowed into snowbanks. Plates on my bikes are usually mangled by rocks and run into tire knobs. I have repaired plates with JB weld and fixed letters with sparkly nail polish. All that is a fancy way of saying that what you are about to see may look like overkill, but it is necessary to ensure this license plate isn't soon trashed beyond legibility.

    I used more of that 3/16" 6061 T6 plate to make a backer with countersunk mounting holes and some larger weight reduction holes. Fresh hardwear since the old stuff was corroded so bad an angle grinder was involved in plate removal.

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    And installed on the bike.

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  12. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    Today I attacked the front turn signal mounts. The 640 Adventure had turn signals mounted to the faring. I am rebuilding the bike without such a contrivance so I need new signal mounts.

    The turn signals need to be some minimum width to be legal, I didn't bother to look up that distance again, I figured as long as they are as wide or wider than the Baja Designs mask I am pulling off this bike, they'll be wide enough to pass inspection.

    I have heard rumors that the opposite signal has to be seen from some given position in front of and to one side of the bike. I really doubt that is true because I have never seen it in writing but that never stops an inspector from failing you.

    Finally, I want my signals to be protected in a tipover. They shouldn't be the farthest protruding object in any scenario.

    I decided to mount them here:

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    Grab a chunk of steel drop from the scrap bins and lay it out for holes.

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    Drill baby drill! Brush all the Dykem off, blue it again and layout the cut lines.

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    Grinder time. Cut close and power sander up to the lines.

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  13. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    Next, the steel needs a 30 degree bend and a 10 degree twist.

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    And finally drill and tap the bark-buster mounts for the new signal mounts. Screw the mess together and celebrate another small victory.

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  14. 2002maniac

    2002maniac Been here awhile

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    Perry, Utah
    Great work! It takes a lot of thought and vision to bring together a project like this. I'm loving the details.
  15. jays100

    jays100 Been here awhile

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    If you don't mind my asking, I'm curious why you didn't use the integrated mirror/turn signal LED design? save some weight and simplify stuff, it would.
  16. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    I don't mind at all.

    This is my only motorcycle. I owned up to 4 at one point but I found that if I own more than one, I will have one working one and the others will be broken. I won't fix one untill all of them are broken and then I will ride that one immediately after I fix it until it breaks again. Since I don't enjoy keeping a home for wayward motorcycles, I have to limit myself to one.

    This bike has to do it all for me. My favorite kind of riding is singletrack but my bike also needs to get me to and from work. Riding to work consists of 10 miles of state roads and 20 miles of interstate highways in the greater Boston area.

    Boston isn't world famous for bad driving on the level of say Cairo, but it is constantly among the most dangerous places to drive in the United States. Massholes, in my opinion, aren't bad drivers. They drive quickly and with a purpose. They know which lane they need to be in and they get there far enough ahead of time to keep traffic moving. The problem is that the roads in Massachusetts are not organized in a modern format. They are ancient deer and indian paths that have been upgraded to be nearly wide enough for two cars to pass. If you are not intimately familiar with your planned route, you will be in the wrong lane at the wrong time and cause others to quickly loose their patience with you. When I learned how to ride motorcycles, it took me 3 years to learn how to anticipate another driver's intentions. Things like a car drifting and a driver checking a mirror mean lane change where a drifting car and no mirror check mean cell phone. Moving to Massachusetts is like getting a PHD on riding a motorcycle in traffic. It took another 3 years to cue into how these people drive.

    All that long winded setup is to stress how important being visible is. More so than riding a moto anywhere else I have lived, it is essential here. Massholes will make space for you if you signal and move quickly. If you don't make your plan known or are slow, they will intentionally block your path so that you don't slow them down.

    I have tried several different aftermarket turnsignals and have come to realize that nothing cuts it like OEM signals for visibility. I have yet to come across an LED solution smaller than a Mac truck sized light that is visable enough for daytime use.

    Mirrors could go into an equally long diatribe but the shorter answer is that this kind of mirror is the best I have found that won't vibrate so badly that I can't pick out which car behind me is a cop but will also fold away for single track use.

    Are their better solutions for a guy in Wyoming that never sees traffic or California with wide lanes and drivers who anticipate Motos? Sure. If I could come up with a better solution for southern New England, I'd adopt it.
  17. jays100

    jays100 Been here awhile

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    Hahahahahahahaha, massholes!!!!!!
    Yes! I live just N of Hartford so understand the pike, beltways and the like.
    So thanks for the setup and response.
  18. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    My pace on this project hasn't slowed any, I have been working on the wiring schematic for a few days. I will make a post about that when I finish.

    Yesterday I received a distraction from electric logic problems in the mail.

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    It looks large enough to pull off the look I am going for.

    I don't have any tools that can accurately measure such large round objects. The best I could do was use a magnetic dial indicator stand as a makeshift height gage and take measurements with a combination square accurate to 1/16". I figured that the light is made for a jeep so accuracy can't be too critical. I came away with a sketch of the important dimensions.

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    I started playing with a piece of aluminum from the scrap pile, toying with making a mounting ring. The aluminum was a casting from an emergency pressure relief valve. It started its life looking a lot like this:

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    I lopped the threaded portion off when I (incorrectly) thought the outer diameter was too small for the application; the maximum diameter of the casting is just over 7". I ran out to deal with life and when I returned, more gifts awaited me.

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    A pair of 6061 rings.

    I ordered 1 inch of 6.5" id 7.5" od and 2 inches of 7" id 8" od. I don't know what I was thinking 'cause I needed two pieces to sammich the 7" maximum diameter of the headlight and 1" isn't much to work with. I cleaned up the small ring and threaded 1/4" of it on the od with 16tpi threads thinking I could screw/loctite the two together then sever the remaining 3/4" to make the front ring to do the sammiching. I really didn't like this plan because ideally the back inner ring (which is what indexes the light) is what you want to bolt the rest of the bike to. In the plan I was executing, the outer ring would be what bolts to the bike and I was left trying to figure out how I was going to thread a thin ring on the front after the light is assembled.

    When you know you are wrong, the first step is to stop doing what you are doing. Time to call it a day.
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  19. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    So with some sleep and a new prospective on life, I grabbed the tank vent casting and noted that while there isn't much meat, with some fudging off center to accomodate irregularities in the casting and a re true, there is just enough meat for some 16tpi threads to protrude beyond the 7" minimum diameter that a bucket would need to be. Better lucky than good!

    I turned the casting then put the smaller ring in the lathe and turned matching threads and a lip to catch the headlight. All of this was done with one part acting as a go/no go gage for the other as again, I have no tools to measure accurately at this size.

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    Once everything was working in harmony, I screwed the two parts together and cut the bucket down shorter. I took this picture to show that I am pushing the limits of a 10" throw lathe.

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    Once cut to length and cleaned up, I cut the indexing slots in the bucket. By hand. This sucks but even if my mill were working, this kind of cut would require specialized tooling and I'd have had to at least finish the cut by hand.

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    After the hand work was done, the bucket went back on the lathe for cleanup. Both pieces got wire brushed and are complete for now.

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  20. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

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    And a shot with the headlight contained in its mounting ring:

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