Retired and Riding (Now in Mexico)

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by danisOTR, Jan 13, 2020.

  1. danisOTR

    danisOTR GO BIG OR GO HOME Supporter

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    2/3/2020 Monday

    Merida

    Apparently today is “Constitution Day”. I have to learn to pay attention to these things. I went to bring our laundry to be done and found a hand written closed sign on the door. When I referred to Google when it was displaying hours of operation there was a caveat about how the holiday may impact normal working hours. Oddly or not the salon that Patti went to for her nails is open today and she is taking full advantage of it.

    I had mentioned meeting Roger the local dentist and I mentioned that I might have to see him. Well there is no might any more. I’ve been having pain for the last week towards the rear molars. This morning the pain almost took me to my knees when I was drinking my coffee. I sent him a text a while ago and am waiting to hear back.

    This morning we actually cooked our own breakfast instead of taking advantage of the continental breakfast. Eggs with Swiss cheese. A nice break from fruit and toast.

    Patti finished with her hair appointment around noon. For the ladies, full color $25. And Patti is happy so you know that it came out good.

    We had been told there was a pool at the hotel and went over to search it out. The main hotel is a pretty small boutique hotel so there wasn’t much to search. We couldn’t find anything so we asked. The manager had one of the staff escort us across the street to yet a third building. I’m not sure of its’ use as it had no meeting rooms or guest space and there was no one working there. But in the back of the building was a small wading pool with a couple of lounge chairs. As with everywhere else around the property we had the place to ourselves. It is all shaded with a nice breeze so it was a comfortable place to spend a couple of hours during the heat of the day.
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    On our way over to the pool we ran in to Roger the local dentist. I explained what was going on with my teeth and we made an appointment for 5:00PM.

    Around 3 we went back to our room for a snack as we had planned on going to the English Library at 6:30. We heated up some leftovers and after we were done eating hung out until it was time for me to walk across the street to the dentist.

    I was greeted at the door by one of Roger’s assistants and brought back into the treatment rooms. Not what you’d expect in the states but it was clean and modern.

    I explained again the pain I was experiencing and that heat was really causing me cringe. He started off taking an x-ray. All modern digital equipment with immediate on-screen results. The difference in that he held the reading device that was in my mouth aimed the machine and snapped the picture. In the states they wrap you in lead and use a device to hold the reader then step out of the room. OK, that’s different. Saves a little time, I guess. Nothing to see here. He goes on to isolate which tooth it was and began tapping them one by one until I cringed. Now we are getting somewhere.

    The next step was to see how my teeth were lining up. Long story short the tooth in question has a crown. Crowns don’t wear down as fast as natural teeth. When two molars, top and bottom, come in contact there should be multiple point of contact otherwise all the pressure is placed on one point. He ground down a point and rechecked. Now I had four points of contact so the pressure of my bite will be spread over a greater surface. I was given a follow up appointment for Friday. Cost, $27 probably 10% what I’d pay in the US.

    While I was at the dentist Patti had gone to Walmart for some more supplies.
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    We got back close to the same time and went inside to prepare dinner.

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    In the end we decided to stay in this evening. By in I mean the rooftop lounge area where we enjoyed the cool breeze and night sky.
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    Tomorrow we do a guided walking tour of the city.
    #81
  2. dano619

    dano619 Long timer Supporter

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    Love your attention to detail!! Keep it coming, thanks!!
    #82
  3. Omar

    Omar Muddling thru Supporter

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    Oh man! Reading your detailed travel description with pictures, I have a very changed and vastly enhanced view of the country. What a great time you guys are having. More power to you both. Your descriptions and great pictures are very illustrative and highly enjoyable. Thanks very much. I am ‘traveling’ with you guys.

    I am glad you got over your down time and got your tooth fixed, and Patti got her nails done. Beautiful. It was 10 deg here and snow storm is expected this weekend. So bask in the thought what you are ‘missing’.

    That’s the group at breakfast last Saturday.
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    Keep up the enjoyable travelogue.
    Ride safe.
    #83
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  4. Cherch

    Cherch Adventurer Supporter

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    During your travels, have you had any problems with your bikes? If so, were you able to repair yourselves, or were you able to find a mechanic/motorcycle repair place?
    #84
  5. danisOTR

    danisOTR GO BIG OR GO HOME Supporter

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    No problems with the exception of the mirror repair we had to have done. We did tires and oil in Austin before we got into Mexico
    #85
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  6. danisOTR

    danisOTR GO BIG OR GO HOME Supporter

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    2/4/2020 Tuesday

    Merida

    This morning we took a guided walking tour centered around the Plaza Grande. The guide led around 30 people and switched between Spanish and English explaining the history of Merida and the buildings around the main square and how they came to be.

    The Spaniards discovered Merida in the 1600’s. When they arrived, they found 5 abandoned Mayan temples that were situated around what is now the Plaza Grande. They were overgrown with the jungle taking the land back.

    The temples were built from sandstone which is abundant beneath the thin layer of topsoil. The stone for the temples was harvested miles away and brought to the site of the temple.

    Here is where things get interesting. Our guide explained that the Spaniards were recyclers. They enslaved around 100,000 Mayans. They used the labor to tear the temples down and reuse the stones to build many of the buildings that now surround Plaza Grand. In fact, where Plaza Grand is used to be where one of the 5 temples were.

    Our guide told us of the family that started this and showed us the building they built for themselves. Here is a WIKI link which explains things better than I can. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mérida,_Yucatán
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    Cathedral de Mérida - San Ildefonso was also built from the remains of the Temples. It was the first Cathedral in the America’s when it was built. It was fortified and also used as a refuge for citizens during sieges.
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    The Governor’s Mansion was also constructed in the same manner. There are just too many details to go into. But as we were walking around and through these building you couldn’t help but think about how ancient these stones were; how many people slaved, multiple times, to get them into the places they currently are; how many people have walked on these same stone over the centuries.

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    Inner Square
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    Paintings
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    After our tour we stepped into a restaurant that served authentic Yucatanian food. We had been given a list from someone on ADVrider and many of the recommended items were on the menu. We selected two to share:

    o Sopa de lima: A hearty soup loaded with shredded turkey in a deliciously tangy broth thanks to the namesake lime juice.
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    o Cochinita pibil: Perhaps the most notable Yucatecan dish (and our favorite), this tender slow-cooked pork is marinated in sour-orange, achiote, and other spices.

    Sorry no picture here!

    From Lunch we worked our way back north and stopped in at the English Library. This is a very well stocked library probably made up mostly by members donations of pre-read books. It does operate as a true library though with the need to get a library card in order to check out books. There is a courtyard with a kitchen as well as a rooftop seating area. Patti joined and borrowed a James Patterson to read in the heat of the afternoon when we are hiding in the shade indoors.

    We are hunting down an Airbnb to spend the remaining part of this month and the month of March. There are a couple we are interested in not too far from where we are staying now. The cost would be around $500 a month which will really cut down on our expenses. I’d been in contact with two host and when I asked for the exact address, they both gave me the same one. Come to find out they are brothers and each have a rental in the same building.

    We took the GS to go and look at the Airbnb. Another hour of walking in 90-degree heat was not going to happen. It took less than 10 minutes to get out to where the apartments were. We quickly realized we were further out of the main stream of things and although the area was pretty secluded it was not going to work for us.

    Back to hotel and out of our riding gear and helmets. We love our Aerostich gear but when it’s 90-degrees it does not cut it.
    #86
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  7. Vrode

    Vrode Long. Standing. Member Supporter

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    Very interesting history of the area, thanks! I’m thinking you will find an AirBnB that works for you, good luck!
    #87
  8. danisOTR

    danisOTR GO BIG OR GO HOME Supporter

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    2/5/2020 Wednesday

    Merida

    It’s been a heck of a day so far. I woke up way to early realizing we were supposed to check out of our hotel. Well that got my head spinning. We’ve been paying around $35 a day up to this point. It includes a continental breakfast. Fresh towels every other day and full service for our room once per week. Sounds like a good rate right?

    We’ve looked at Airbnb and have seen some better prices but they are further out and the amenities not as good. We have a large room with a private bath and access to a kitchen. I was able to negotiate a rate close to the BnB rate through the end of February. So we don’t have to move!

    Next we walked down to the language school we’ve been in contact with. We negotiated a good rate with them as well and start next Monday for at least 2 weeks and possibly more depending on how dense we are.

    As you may remember Patti had lost her backpack the first day which had her prescription glasses and sunglasses in it. We asked at the language school for a recommendation which they gladly gave us.

    We walked around 10 blocks and ran into a optician’s office but not the one we were referred to. Our bad. They didn’t have any English speakers and you all know we don’t speak any Española. We made the best of it and were at the shop for over 30 minutes. Patti needs progressive lenses and she wanted single vision polarized sunglasses. Initially the price was around $700 US for both. When he was done “trying” to fleece us it was almost $1000 US. I said no thank you and out we walked

    Three blocks further we are at the place that was recommended. Much nicer, cleaner and professional. Even though no one spoke English they know how to use Google translate which the last place did not. Long story short we ended up spending $235 for, again progressive lenses for her frames and single vision prescription polarized sunglasses. I’m glad we walked.

    We were two blocks from Plaza Grande so decided to try to see more of the buildings we saw the previous day. What a great decision.

    We ended up in Museo Fernando Garcia Ponte. This is best described as a Museum of Modern Art. Admission was free, just in case there are any KLR riders reading. It was magnificent speaking strictly as a less than educated art person. See some of the examples of the displays below. We wondered through for around an hour but if we had any real art knowledge it would have been a half a day.
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    It was after noon and we were a bit hungry and thirsty. I pulled up Google Maps and saw that a bar that I really wanted to visit was 6 blocks away and open. Another great decision for the day.

    La Negrita is a place that shows up as another “place to go” in Merida. Its facade is very deceiving. It sits on a street corner with saloon doors facing each street. You stop into a small bar with some two seat table tops. The place looks tiny. We took a seat by the window so we could watch the sites and sounds on the street. We ordered a couple of beers and looked over the menu.
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    They had many Yucatanian dishes and we ordered Conchinita Pibal tacos. As usual someone brought around some snacks to pick on as we waited. There was a lot of activity with staff bustling about and guests coming it and disappearing it to what assumed was another small room behind the bar.

    The taco’s appeared shortly and I ordered another beer. Half way through the tacos Patti asked for a margarita. They serve in two size glasses a six ounce and a twenty ounce. The twenty ounce has three shots of tequila. Two of those please!
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    We finished the tacos and were working on our margaritas when Patti got up to take a peek in the back. When she came back, she said you have to go look back there. What appeared to be a small dingy bar from the outside turns into a huge open-air space in back with another bar a stage and seating for a couple of hundred people. Quite the trick.
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    While we were working on our margaritas, we ordered a second entrée of chicken enchilada with molle sauce. It arrived and it looked and tasted delicious.

    We finished up and asked for our bill. 3 tripled shot margaritas, 3 beers, two entrees $44. We would be frequenting this place. We just didn’t realize how soon.

    I had to go to an ATM to get some pesos to pay for our room. I had made a deal that was all cash to get the low rate. So we split up and I walked up Paseo de Montejo towards the Santander Bank where I don’t get charged any fee’s.

    A few days before while walking the same stretch of road I had noticed a heavily fortified building with an armored turret facing the street. From my years in the armored car industry I knew it had to be bank of some sort. On my way by this time I snapped a quick picture and as I was I noticed two shotgun toting guards on the street facing the armored doors. I turned the one closest to me and asked “banco” to which he replied “si”. Sure enough when I walked past the front the front of the building the sign read “Bank of Mexico”. So basically, it is there version of the federal reserve bank.
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    Another block and I was at the Santander. Half way through my transaction an armored truck pulls up and 4 guards get out. Three were carrying shotguns. So, there are three guards to cover the one courier that is going to replenish the ATM. In the US you don’t see that. Also, when I left the ATM kiosk, I noticed that there were still two more people in the truck.

    I walked the 10 minutes back to the hotel where I paid our bill which was gratefully received. Another minute and I was back in our air-conditioned room where I started work on today’s post.

    Where we had such a late lunch, we decided we really didn’t need to have a major dinner. We decided we’d just go back down to La Negrita for another margarita. On our way out we ran into the hotel manager, Tony with two of his workers in tow. They were heading into our building and we were got introduced to another couple from Mississippi who come in today. Bill and Peaches. No really, Peaches. We had a nice chat and talked about getting together during our coinciding stay.

    Finally, out the door we go following our noses for the 15-minute walk back to triple margaritas. This time we sat in the open-air section of the La Negrita. There was a band setting up and the place was packed. We grabbed a table near the back and fortunately for us the same waiter was there so we quickly had our mongo glasses in front of us. Next came popcorn with chili sauce on it. That was good. Then came pork rinds also with chili sauce. Also, good.
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    We soon found ourselves joining another table filled with expats. Some are full-timers some part-timers. There were from the US and Great Britain. We had fun conversations and swapped numbers and got addresses. Probably be a good resource over the next few weeks.

    Oddly La Negrita closes at 10 and it was fun to watch the staff chasing around with peoples bills and their portable credit card readers. But they did a good job pushing us out the door. Others were going to move on to another venue but we were done and weaved our way back to Casa San Juan.
    #88
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  9. danisOTR

    danisOTR GO BIG OR GO HOME Supporter

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    2/6/2020 Wednesday

    Merida

    Sorry if this is turning into less than a ride report but I hope people find the information on Merida enjoyable. We will likely be riding to the nearby ruins and cenotes over the next couple of weeks. Otherwise it is too hot to ride. We are walking everywhere and time our outings according to the time of day which dictates if we will have shade when we walk and on what side of the street. Between 11 and 1 you can’t find any shade on the streets that run north and south. Today it is 96 and humid so shade is necessary.

    I pillaged the ATM this morning to get pesos to pay the deposit for our Spanish class. On my way to the ATM I did my best to have a conversation with one of the Moto Cops that was posted at a intersection. We talked about bikes the best we could. He has assigned a Harley but did say the 1200RTP is also being used.

    After paying the deposit at La Casita language school I walked back to our place on the east side of the street which had shade up until the last two blocks. I got inside the AC as quickly as I could.

    Patti was doing research on museums we could visit and where they are. There are several mansions from the heyday of sisal that line Paseo de Montejo. Several of these are open to tour.

    We needed more provisions so decided to do a slight detour on to PDM to visit one of the mansions before we did our shopping. We decided on going into Quinta Montes Molina. We paid our admission and were given a brief oral history by one of the docents.

    This home was owned by one of the many families that had made it big the sisal industry. The architecture and grandeur of the place would rival the houses of the robber barons that inhabited Newport Rhode Island. The furniture was original or at the least period pieces. Each of the rooms had a plaque explaining the room and its significance and information about the contents. Here is a link to their website: http://www.laquintamm.com/

    I’ll let the pictures tell the rest of the story. Note the plaster work which is evident throughout the house.
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    The below window is Tiffany glass.

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    Note the intricately carved chess pieces.

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    The home is still in the family. When the matriarch of the family is in residence she uses this room.

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    From there we walked up to the store and stopped for an ice cream treat before we went in. Shopping went quickly and we were soon bearing three heavy bags of groceries back to our place.
    #89
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  10. Golden955

    Golden955 Been here awhile Supporter

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    I love the travel and Merida details and hope nobody else minds. Isn't the whole point of adventure traveling to immerse one's self in the culture you are visiting? As a stupid gringo I am very anxious to hear about the Spanish immersion classes. Thank you for sharing so much.
    #90
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  11. edstoll

    edstoll OPD-2019 Supporter

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    I have found your ride report very enjoyable and informative. Please continue.
    #91
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  12. steinVT

    steinVT Just a rider

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    For some reason ADVrider hasn't been notifying me about your posts. Been reading for the last hour and a half and am now caught up. Great RR and pictures. I was concerned after your tree house mud adventure, but it looks like all is well. You guys have definitely taken moto-touring to a level way beyond our little trip in Europe. Give Patti our love, take care and stay cool (as I look out at 6" of snow with another foot on the way).
    #92
  13. davidaid

    davidaid Adventurer

    Joined:
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    I agree with this. I long to ride around Mexico and this is great to read.
    #93
  14. danisOTR

    danisOTR GO BIG OR GO HOME Supporter

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    Thanks to all for your feedback. As others have written this is my contribution back to the forum for the hundreds of hours of reading others reports and being able to live vicariously through their experiences.

    As I have written we will be in Merida at least through the end of February. It is already in the 90’s here and will be getting hotter.

    We want to get to a cooler area so any suggestions and routes will be welcomed. We have no agenda as to where we will cross back into the states so nothing is off the plate. We just need to keep on mostly pavement.
    #94
  15. danisOTR

    danisOTR GO BIG OR GO HOME Supporter

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    2/7/2020 Friday

    Merida

    Not much to report today. We picked up our laundry. On the way back I found a guy that would wash our bikes which really needed it.

    He asked that I bring them down one at a time. It was only ¾ of a block away. The GS got dropped off first and he said he’d be done in an hour. We hung out in the AC until the hour was us and then I brought the R to him. He took one look and he said two hours. I forgot to take before pictures of the GS but I took a couple of the R.

    While we waited for the R we decided to walk over to the pool area. The building was open this time so we didn’t have to ask someone from the desk to open it up for us. Again, we had the place to ourselves.

    The way the buildings and walls surround the pool it is always in shade. That along with a slight breeze is enough to take the edge off the heat of the day.

    At the two-hour mark I headed back to grab the R. He wasn’t quite done but it looked better than it has since we left Vermont in September. A local struck up a conversation with me while “Kenneth” finished up. The guy showed me where there were cenotes only twenty minutes away. Good to know.

    Kenneth finished up with the Jesse’s and I mounted them back on. I praised him for doing such a great job. I asked how much. $200 pesos, so around $11 for 3 hours of labor. I gave him $250 pesos. I would have spent than much in coin at a car wash, if there was such a thing down here. Plus, he did a better job. He gave me his WhatsApp phone number in case I needed him again. Not likely but a good resource.

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    We wiled away a few more hours until 7:00 and decided to go to La Negrita for a drink and to share an entrée. On the way down I saw two DR650’s with New Mexico Plates parked by the curb. One of the plates was a vanity plate “FYYFF”. Easy to figure he was a member of the asylum. I left some travel cards with our information on them. They show our ADVrider handle and Facebook name. I also posted a picture of the bikes and posted it to see if anyone knew who they were and could put them in contact with us.

    La Negrita was packed and we were lucky to get a table. Two triple margaritas and our entrée were ordered. Because we had pre-gamed before we left for the restaurant only one drink each was needed. The food arrived and we worked through it and the drinks pretty quickly. Seeing we did not have a great table and there didn’t seem to be anyone around to interact with we decided to call it an evening and head back to our rooms.

    But the night was not over yet. Around 2:30 I woke up to a racket in the hall outside our room. The floor is ceramic tile and it sounded like sneakers making that squeaky scuffing sound. Then there was a loud bang and that was it. I looked outside our door and to my right where the kitchen is one of the stools had been knocked over. Also, the screen door leading to the patio was open. Weird. I righted the chair and shut down the hall lights and then went back to bed listening for few minutes for any more disturbances.

    Out of sequence but part of the above passage: The next morning as I sat having my coffee a young lady came from the patio area. She looked like she had a tough night. She saw me and turned around. Later she grabbed one of the maintenance men and had him dial outside line. From our room I heard a lot of crying and loud talking. Pretty sure her evening did not turn out as expected. Patti also saw a young man wrapped in a towel in the kitchen talking with her. We don’t know what the outcome was and they were gone when we got back from breakfast.
    #95
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  16. danisOTR

    danisOTR GO BIG OR GO HOME Supporter

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    Saw this on Calle 60 tonight in Merida. One is obviously an inmate. If anyone knows them have them PM me.
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    #96
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  17. danisOTR

    danisOTR GO BIG OR GO HOME Supporter

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    2/8/2020 Saturday

    Merida

    Samalama from the asylum replied to the post I put on the New Mexico regional forum letting me know it was he and “Kate” that belong to the bikes. We are trying to set up a meet for this evening.

    We went to the buffet breakfast today at the hotel. It was a big spread as we had noted last Saturday. We sat with Bill and Peaches and made a few trips back and forth from the buffet. There were many regional items as well as some universal items like hot cakes, French toast along with Montecristo’s. Cost was $13 with tip for both of us.

    Foolishly we waited until the sun was high again before we set out to visit Palacio Canton. https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palacio_Cantón It houses The Regional Museum of Anthropology of Yucatán. We followed the shadows as best we could the blocks it took us to get there.

    Admission is $8 each and it is a self-directed tour. Again, our fault we don’t speak or read Spanish. Everything is in Spanish and there was a lot lost on us.

    The first floor was dedicated to Mayan art and pieces of carvings from the archeological sites that surround the region. One of the things that stands out here is that there are “story-boards” that explain or interpret each section of the ornate carvings.
    44D12588-75EC-4225-B803-78486176D042.jpeg 8F9F5DF1-097F-4ECB-B477-06D68542984D.jpeg FC58F658-F64C-4812-89AE-969B893400E8.jpeg 8CAB2B2D-A547-4A60-9EA9-EF0354E20686.jpeg DBD06BA2-9596-437C-B326-0775891EA025.jpeg 8EAB25E3-78FE-4D9C-965D-844BB23C7ECE.jpeg

    These interpretations were done in large part by Yuri Knorozov Wiki tells us that Knorozov was a Russian linguist, epigrapher and ethnographer, who is particularly renowned for the pivotal role his research played in the decipherment of the Maya script, the writing system used by the pre-Columbian Maya civilization of Mesoamerica. However, what caught my eye was how much he looked like his cat.
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    There were also examples of jade artwork and jewelry as well as carving on bones.

    53C4B0D6-0101-4D5E-8DE1-669EAC6BA2B8.jpeg C6F3F68D-0825-41D5-83D7-7F81B96E97CC.jpeg B1667828-9C71-4C33-B74C-346AB74437B5.jpeg 5599A9A9-98FB-46C4-A349-5EFC6232DD54.jpeg 9992C704-5A02-43FC-9EFE-1F43ADFAED75.jpeg

    The building itself is also spectacular. The link above describes the architecture but here are two photos I took that give a small glimpse into the grandeur of the mansion.

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    The second floor is strictly aerial photography of the Yucatan Peninsula going back to the early 1900’s. Having spent time in a couple of the Cities represented it was interesting to see how they’ve changed and developed.

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    Also, there are several aerial shots of the Mayan Ruins that are so prevalent in the Yucatan. Then there are just some plane old “beauty” shots.

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    Now back to the air conditioning.
    #97
    Smidty, Davidprej and dano619 like this.
  18. danisOTR

    danisOTR GO BIG OR GO HOME Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2007
    Oddometer:
    573
    Location:
    Vermont
    2/8/2020 Saturday Continued

    Around 6 Samalama (Sam) messaged me on WhatsApp that he a Kate were heading down to La Negrita for dinner and drinks. We made a plan to meet them.

    They were fortunate enough to snag a table for four which is a challenge on any night especially a weekend night. We walked in and found them towards the back. Meet our new friends Kate and Sam.
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    We ordered food and drinks and commenced to trade stories about our respective trips. They’ve been on the road for several months already, touring through Mexico. They had great advice as to where to go and what to see. Sam shared his spotwalla tracks with me. I know we will be using it when we move from here.

    After we ate, we moved to Plaza Grande where there was an exhibition of a Mayan Ball Game called Pitz. Pitz also referred to a Pok-Ta-Pok was part of Maya political, religious, and social life. Played with a rubber ball ranging in size from that of a softball to a soccer ball, players would attempt to bounce the ball without using their hands through stone hoops attached to the sides of the ball court. Here is a link to a YouTube video although the exhibition we watched was slightly different and resembled a combination of volley ball and basketball but with no hands or feet.
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    They finished one exhibition and then upped the anti and lit the ball on fire. This was another game called Ecarat. In the exhibition we saw they were allowed to use their hands but, like volley ball you had to pass before you can hit it over the net or in this case through the vertical hoop. Sorry my pictures didn’t come out great. Here is a YouTube that is similar to what we saw.
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    After the show we headed back north and then east to join up with Paseo de Montejo. We ended up sitting down at a well-known restaurant named Impala. We sat a had beers and swapped more stories.

    It was getting late and Kate and Sam were heading out in the morning so we decided to call it a night. We were both staying on Calle 62 so we headed a few blocks west then headed north. We stopped for a few moments at their hotel, traded contact info and said our goodnights and goodbyes. Here’s to you two. Hoping to stay in touch and see each other again.
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    #98
  19. severely

    severely almost a noob

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2013
    Oddometer:
    700
    Location:
    odessa MO/donna TX
    Outstanding report and photography, I really enjoyed reading it. BTW, you really should put TP in the wastebasket in Mexico, their sewer systems aren't built to cope. Loved your writing, more please.
    #99
  20. danisOTR

    danisOTR GO BIG OR GO HOME Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2007
    Oddometer:
    573
    Location:
    Vermont
    Yes we were told about the TP.

    Thanks for following.