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Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by Geek, Feb 18, 2010.
Which parts are metal and which parts are plastic? I can't tell...
Everything in the photo above is billet aluminum except for the mirrors (top right) and the actual "shields" (top center).
The guards, risers, top clamp, remote holder and blocks are all anodized black T6.
Here are some pics from when I installed my system on the 610 which clearly shows what is what material:
Hope this helps?
p.s. hopefully I can get back to working on this today and post an update... all I got done yesterday was this:
ok.. I got a little while in the garage this morning.. time for an update.
again I apologize for the crappy photos. I'm going to post the photos in smaller size again and if you want to view the full size pics you can browse my smug mug: https://topgeek.smugmug.com/Adventure-Riding/2010/Feb-18-Installing/11281846_c7cRh#791540030_siJfd
I'm 6 foot tall and I stand up most of the time when I ride off road. I want my bars to be about an inch taller than stock for standing comfort.
Here are the stock lower risers with my risers behind:
...and then just for comparison, if you were really tall you can get taller risers. My 610's risers are significantly taller like the riser on the right. On my 950 I'll be installing the one in the middle:
Allow me to digress a minute about why HDB calls this an "Adventure System". The idea behind it is that there are a variety of pieces and components you can add to your system so that you can set your bike up how you want it. When you dual sport a dirtbike, besides mirrors you don't have some basic things like switches, switch mounts, etc that you need for things like turn signals, headlights, etc.
In our 950s case, we have all the standard running gear but this same system can be used for other things
I was a bit weary about the idea of cutting holes in my (expensive) KTM fairings to mount switches and the like; I know many here have done so and have done a good job but I wasn't looking forward to it. Then I realized that I could use some of the HDB perches to do all the switch work I could ever want. Here is an example of one of the perches I have mounted on my Husky... I use it and the two switches for controlling my 610s heated grips:
So looking at that photo.. the stock two (gold colored) screws that mount the clutch lever on go through a (black) billet perch mount that HDB makes which is shaped like a "letter C". The red and black rubber push buttons are mounted into that billet perch and are push-button switches that turn my hand grips off/on/high/low.
Here's another photo where you can see how the billet perch is actually shaped so that it wraps perfectly around the handlebar replacing the stock "lever clamp" piece and then holds the switches:
The switches themselves are pretty cool.. they are sealed (water proof) and the rubber caps (come in black or red) screw on to them. They are all of a standard size that works with the HDB perches and with the HDB top clamp
As well as the billet perch design you saw on my Husky above, HDB also has a perch available that is in a horizontal layout that can be mounted off of any <strike>horizontal</strike> vertical screw mounting. You can mount them off of your stock mirrors screw holes for example. I screwed them into the switch housing just for demonstration purposes in these photos:
...again the entire perch is billet including the mounting arm - very very strong.
Depending on your needs you can mount one switch + a "hole cap" .. or two switches as you saw above:
The hole covers are little press in caps that fill up the empty unused holes - they come in a single or double.
Here you can see where I used a double cap to fill in the top two empty holes in my top clamp:
It definitely gives things a nice finished look.
So here is my top clamp as it looks now with 4 switches mounted and one powerlet mounted:
A personal note on my power outlet preferences: when I'm buying them for use "while riding" I always spend the extra money and buy the actual brand name ones that have the "stays popped open and snaps closed" lids. KTM sells them as a KTM branded as well as BMW. The ones I avoid are the cheap knock offs with the "tethered cap" as opposed to the spring loaded cap.
Powerlet lid stays up on its own:
It makes it much easier to plug stuff in with one hand while riding.
Two other random thoughts:
This is brilliant. Why doesn't every bike have a freakin' chain holder built into the guard? Bravo KTM
...and yes, I dropped a bolt into the bike when trying to put the risers on. I didn't mind because it gave me a chance to open up my skid plate and take a look at the infamous fuel pump
I didn't realize there is a fuse down there on that sucker.. good to know.
Question: My Big Dog skid plate will not actually hinge down with the bike on the center stand. These seams like a pretty big inconvenience to me. Is it designed this way on purpose? (i.e. should I not go and cut two slots in the back of it so it can hinge around the center stand when down?)
Anyways.. that's all I got done today before I had to go buy some new airline for my compressor (the hand grips are glued on big time ).
What I did on mine was take all of that tubing out of there and put individual tank vents on each tank. That way it is easier to take them on and off and not have to worry about all the tubing.
Sounds like a good idea Marc.. what do you mean by "individual tank vents" ?
Something like this.
You may already have one on your husky.
By hinge down how far are you talking? Mine will come down a good 4-5" but it's not like on the sidestand where it'll fall until it hits ground.
So are the vents on the tops of the tanks for overflow or are they the breather tubes that the tanks suck in air via when the fuel goes out?
i.e. if I put one way check valves on them am I going to have vacuum starvation issues?
on the center stand I can lower the front of the skid plate about 3 inches total. If I were to trim it at the back I'm assuming I could get it to where I could lower it to the floor so I could actually access stuff with the bike on the center stand?
It seams silly to have to buy spools and some pit bull stands for a bike that has a centerstand....
What I don't like about those risers is that they will also bring the bars even farther back as well as the rise. The Adventure bars are already mounted too far back in relation to the triple clamp center.
Both the DirtnBlood riders and the Rox riser address this issue and move the bars up AND forward.
Otherwise, your set up looks great.
Here is what I remember from mine. BTW: you might want to check and make sure all of the TSB's have been done to the bike as a lot of them had to do with fuel venting.
On the tops of the tanks in the front, I had one of the before mentioned valves on each tank. They let air into the tanks but not fuel out during a tip over. Or they were two way valves, I can't remember. (shut up Mark) (make sure to keep the tubes clear.). I also had a tube that ran between the two tanks and ran across just behind the air box. This was a TSB modification by KTM to keep tank pressure equalized. If I remember correctly and over pressure situation would be vented out of the gas caps.
When I first got the bike there were terrible problems with pressure locks and the tanks not draining evenly. These two modifications cured all of that. Mine was an 05.5 model.
They are just breather valves. I have mine just open to the air- they're like that on my 525 and my old XR400, so I figured it's about the same.
Ed- in answer to your PM question, I used the taller risers... Now I can tell what you meant, from your pic. I have the 2 1/4 inch high risers installed. The way they are offset, they are actually moved forward a bit... I think they end up about the same place as stock, but higher.
I need to talk to Paul about the small switches for my heated grips, for both the 950 and 525. They look clean.
If you look at the shape of them they are offset and move the bars forward to match the amount the height brings them rearward.
Duke: so are you saying yours are like the center one above or the right side one above?
The one on the right side. At least they look that tall. Are they 2 1/4 from the bottom of the riser to the bottom of the bar? That's what mine are.
and you don't feel like you are riding like this?
edit: ape hangar photo deleted
...I was worried that those are too tall so I'm installing the middle ones first to try. I'm sure the extra height would be great standing up.. but when I'm on my way to Newfoundland I don't wanna have to stand up the whole way If the middle ones aren't enough I'll swap for the taller.
Pheh. If they're too tall, you need to be looking for more dirt.
Nice write up Geek. I have HDB guards on all of my bikes. Nothing in the market compares. The thing I always HATED about Cycra and other guards was the need to bend the hell out of the guards to make them fit. NOT SO with HDB. They bolt on neat and clean. And, because they fit correctly, I have never had them loosen up on me while riding. Paul is a great guy making a great product. If you're ever gonna drop your big Katoom, you NEED to have these. The bike is just too heavy for other guards. YMMV, but I doubt it.
Oh- and they do work with Emig stabilizers. Measure your top clamp and order the correct size- the Emig setup is different than the standard KTM. However, after DESTROYING 2 Emig stabilizers in about 6 months, I purchased a Scotts and will never go back to Emig. They have an inherent design flaw which makes them suspeptible to destruction in a high speed fall.
Got the order in with 2-1/4" risers, hope there not to much. Might have to opt for the lower, we'll see.
BLM= Bureau of LameAss Mthrfer's
Only got a few minutes this morning...
Here is the tap that comes with the kit:
Here is how you can cut the threads (easier if you own a t-handle)
I dunno what the recommendations are but I'm using red threadlock on the threaded insert and blue on the bolt.
The brown truck just stopped by again
Great write up with lots of details!
We have a bit of an HDB thread going here as well for anyone interested: