I needed a way to transport my Vespa GTS300 but live in a condo and have no place to store a regular small trailer. Did lots of Internet research and found inexpensive (<$200) steel or aluminum ladder frame racks with a separate ramp or more substantial solid C channel racks for 2x-3x more. The solid channel steel racks weigh around 100# and looked very heavy and awkward to attach, detach and schlep around in my garage. All the racks, including the one reviewed here, are made for motorcycles. Scooters with their small wheels and modest ground clearance can have a problem getting over the intersection point between a horizontal rack and angled down to the ground ramp. I found this tilting one https://www.discountramps.com/tilting_motorcycle_rack/p/ACR-MOTORCYCLE-CARRIER/ which solved the rack to ramp hump problem and being aluminum was a bit lighter at 70#. 600# load capacity was plenty for my 360# scooter. Price was not too bad at $430 with tax and freight. Arrived via FedEx ground in 3 days to Nashville. It was packaged well for such a heavy item. Nothing was damaged and nothing was missing. Instructions were OK. I'd think most people who would buy something like this could put it together without instructions. Some of the sharp edges were deburred but there were still lots of other edges that benefited from a little filling. All in all I'd give it 4/5 stars. Good price, heavy gage aluminum, mostly 3/16 wall thickness, decent welding and a stout steel 2" square tube that goes into the vehicle receiver. The only real complaint was that the aluminum channel was so smooth the scooter would spin the rear wheel trying to power it up the ramp. Pretty exciting as the ASR engaged. The first attempt to load the scooter was aborted. This was easy to remedy for $20 worth of stair tread anti slip tape from Home Depot as detailed below. I had determined where the center of gravity of the Vespa was and by moving the front wheel stop all the way forward the CG was right over the hitch. You want this so 1) upward force from hitting a bump does not cause a rocking motion and 2) so the scooter and ramp tilt back to horizontal without slamming down or needing to be forced down. This especially important if you want to load and unload without a helper. Second try at loading with my wife helping was OK. With the scooter strapped down tight, front suspension fully compressed, it seemed reasonably stable in all directions except front to back, as if the car braked or accelerated. This force is transferred from the bike to the spreader where the handle bar straps attach which twists the aluminum channel. The twisting is transferred through the center hinge into the square steel bar. Point being, no matter how tight the straps are the right handle bar end is heading for the tail gate glass if you brake hard. I was concerned about excessive fore -aft movement, overhung load on the rear axle of my car (2018 Volvo XC90, 500# max tongue load) and traction on the ramp. Also, the wheel chock at the front could not be adjusted forward far enough to snuggle up to the 12" wheel. Ramp traction was easiest to fix. Stuck thIs down https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-4-in-x-15-ft-Safety-Walk-Step-and-Ladder-Tread-Tape-7636NA/100211722 Totally fixed the slipping problem. Next overhung load:. The placard on the door jamb gives the max rear axle load. A little googling turned up the vehicle weight and front/rear % split. Measuring the distance from the rear axle to the center of the rack let me calculate the Vespa and rack effect on the rear axle. With the stock rack I was 95# under the max. With the scooter on the rack I could see that it could be moved 10" forward and still have enough clearance from the tail gate. I cut 10" off the square tube and drilled a new 1/2" hole for the hitch pin. Moving everything forward removed 45# from the rear axle and gives a little more clearance around the back of the vehicle too. Then wheel chock position: the kit has a V shaped aluminum strap to stop the front wheel and a a chock that acts like a detent to keep the bike from rolling backwards. Stock, the bike would roll back 3"-4" which meant the rack would want to tilt back. I had to add a 1/4 x 1-1/2 x 8 piece of aluminum bar stock on each side to make a place to anchor the pivot bolt for the chock. The nut to the right in the picture is in the existing hole, the one with the arrow is the new one. For the chock to pivot this bolt must be loose so I tapped a thread for the 3/8-16 bolt in the Al bar then used a jam nut to keep it in place. The chock itself needed to be trimmed to clear the mounting bolts for the forward stop. The chock function works well. The bike rolls over a bump to get all the way forward then will stay there. It takes a good yank to pull it out of the chock when unloading. Last and most challenging was fore and aft stability. I made three changes. The front stock spreader bar is 26" long. I replaced it with a 36" long piece. This gives a more favorable angle for the tie down straps. I also added a 36" rear spreader bar and incorporated a rear wheel chock to prevent rolling backwards. Both spreader tubes transfer the fore and aft motion to a twisting action on the rack which is not super rigid. The third fix was to extend the 2" square steel tube backwards to provide a tie down point not attached to the aluminum channel rack. The 2" tube has a 1-1/2" square hole. Welding in a piece of 1-1/2 square steel tube would have been best but I don't have a welder so I used a piece of straight grained ash wood I had in my scrap bin. I tested it by standing on the end and bouncing the car up and down and it seemed strong enough. This allows a third pair of tie down straps, one on the new extension 19" from the scooter centerline, it's mate on the hitch receiver 12" from CL. In my case the scooter pretty much blocked the cars tail lights so I added a set from Lowes. It's important the wires are not attached to the steel square tube. Also, the anti rattle pin the that came with the kit restrains side to side motion but not up and down so I added this little Gizmo from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001CMUV4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 In my research I read a few comments along the lines of "my bike fell off while I was driving down the road". I imagine the poor souls had the tie downs with "S" hooks that detached when they hit a bump and the hook fell off when the strap went momentarily slack. I got two pairs of these which have carbineers instead of S hooks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRG2F1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Annnd... here's Johnny: Actually I've got a few more details to share but I've hit the ten picture limit so the rest are below on post #3. Thanks for reading this far.