Ride height S, R Standard?

Mine's a standard, and when I bought it I knew I'd likely change it higher. But how high?

I'm attractive, 6'2" and about 230lbs. Probably add 50-60 lbs for gear and soft bags. I ride dirt, with stretches of street to facilitate the dirt- I'm unconcerned about suspension performance on the street- I'm sure if it it works off road, it will do just fine to get me there.

I've put a few thousand on the bike since I bought it in October, and it's clear the suspension needs help- I'm thrashing it. It too hard when it needs to be compliant and too compliant when it needs to be firm. Landing jumps bottoms out the front- I have witness marks on the front fenders from the brake lines.

So. I have to decide my path for ride height. Going full S spec seems an obvious choice, but it's damn expensive. And while I'm probably tall enough to ride it at that height,(my exc is still higher) I can see an advantage in keeping a 500+ lb bitch lower to the ground in tighter trails and single track. If all I rode was open dirt roads and desert, the S spec would win easily.

I also see the late model R is something of a compromise in between. Are the internals yet different from the S, but still the same $?

Is the extra 2" (cue size/girth jokes) worth the money, or is a stock (or R?) height but properly-tuned and sprung suspension going to do the job nearly as well, with the advantage of maneuverability?

If I choose the standard height option and wish later to go higher, will I need to replace the springs again?

Thanks.

Take this with a grain of salt, because I'm a hair under 5'10", and I ride an S (one of the shorter ones). So I wouldn't want my bike any taller (and I've tried the taller S models as well as non-S).
I'd say 90% of the improvement in suspension will come from springs and valving appropriate to what you weigh/ride. Extra travel is great (as long as it's set up correctly), but it plays second fiddle to suspension quality, and it's a compromise with the bike being too tall for you to feel comfortable riding it .

Anyway, my 2 cents would be to redo the suspension at it's current height (either yourself or a good shop, preferably local), and make adjustments to get it working really well for you, if possible. I.E., I don't think getting the valving perfect for you on the first try is a sure thing. The hard part is identifying what could be better.

Thanks, Zak!

I disagree with the former opinion .
the 950 was intended and designed to be an S height
marketing pressure caused the design change to the R height as an afterthought patch in order to sell more units

sag height does affect geometry
With no changes to valving , the ride height changes the behavior significantly
in order to be lowered properly , the mounting point of the swingarm pivot would be changed , not just put a spacer in the shock to shorten the travel

for example : if the fulcrum of the lowered rear has the axle past the point of 90 degrees, it is changing the rake of the forks.because the entire frame is now dropping instead of just the swingarm,
when the rear wheel is traveling up , the swingarm pivot is pushing forward until it reaches the hafway point at which it starts forcing the swingarm pivot down( along with the rear of the frame

IMO, the 950 handles 100% better when at designed sag height (S suspension)

S is for Superb
R is for Retarded

Basically what is required to raise to S is
any RFS open cartridges (complete fork internals)
longer fork springs

longer shock spring
remove thicker spacer inside shock that limits travel and install smaller spacer

I know I've seen the different years and models broken down in a chart in the HOW, but for the life of me, I can no longer find it.......

Anyone, Buehler.......



Please.

http://www.ktm950.info/how/wotf/wotf.html





..........

I would go with taller suspension, I had a standard converted to S (265 mm).

With more suspension travel you can run softer pre-load which makes for a smoother ride because you still have enough left to soak up the hits, with less travel you need the suspension to stiffen up quickly so you don't bottom out.

I also feel more ground clearance is a benefit with these heavy beasts because when you go over logs, etc you don't want to hit your bottom and upset your balance, also ruts are also a problem.

On the road I have no problems, in fact it is better because I don't scrape my pegs.

My SW motech alloy cases would hit before my pegs

are you on dating sites a lot?:huh

The first thing you need to do is get the correct springs (this includes the rear shock) in your bike to create the proper static & rider sag measurements. Until then you're just working around a problem.

Loads of info on suspension spring rates and even valve-stacks here on OC but you have to get those springs set up.

I'd talk to James at SuperPlush Suspension in San Francisco- he knows our forks. He can sell you springs & valving if you want to do it yourself. His goal has always been to get full use from the stroke our bikes came with.

OK, so here’s my story...

After a lot of deliberation - during which time my heart (or maybe it was my balls) was telling me to go all-out, as be as tall as can be (i.e. 265mm true 'S' spec) – in the end I went from 210mm (current Standard) to 245mm (let's call this current 'R' spec). And I'm glad I did.

I need a lot out of this bike: asking it to be quick, nimble and planted for solo blasts on the pavement; stable and comfortable at highway speeds, carrying a week or two's worth of gear and often the missus; not get too upset over unpaved roads with said cargo on the bike; but also take a beating, going as fast as I dare, over the rougher stuff and not be too harsh over the technical stuff.

After speaking in-depth with James at SPS, he told me 245mm, revalved, stiffer springs up front, would definitely be up to pretty much anything I could throw at it, without the need to go higher and replace the rear shock spring (which would have earned him more money).

To help with the many different duties this bike will be carrying out, James set the assembled preload to 10mm (3-4mm higher than usual), so I can adjust out to 20mm (as opposed to the usual 16-17mm) if needed. James reckons these bikes ride solo over most terrains best in the middle of the adjustment range (10-12mm) and usually sends them out the door with 4mm on the handle off a 6mm assembled preload. So, I doubt I'll miss those lower 3mm.

Like you say, if this bike was only to be used for fast off-roading, I'd probably have gone to 265mm with the usual assembled preload, but the 990 is my sturdy pack mule that can kick up its heels when it needs to, not a thorough-bred race horse.

In terms of ergonomics; I'm 6' 2" with long legs (36" if you measure to the flat of my foot) and with longer pegs (which do affect where you can position your feet on the ground) on the bike and chunky soles on my boots, I'm pretty much on the balls of my feet, rather than flat-footed at a standstill. Which is just right, as far as I'm concerned.

My two-cents is; listen to the pros. They've done it a thousand times before, have a few little tricks up their sleeves and are usually right. If you think it through and give them enough info, they'll hand you what you need. Or just tell ‘em what to do and figure it out yourself from there!

Yeah- I was considering that, and thanks for chiming in. Need to get the right parts for this- I'm tempted to send the whole kit to SF, but would prefer to work with someone local. I don't know if SuperPlush would be willing to help gather parts if they're not doing the work- and I completely understand that.

The HOW has a parts list for the full 265mm lift, but not the 245.

While clearly the 265 is superior in theory, I like to easily avoid tipping over in tighter stuff, and am willing to make a compromise to do so.

Thanks again. Oh, let me try it in British:

I'm chuffed to read you answer, and believe Bob will be my uncle if I follow your suggestion.

Most importantly, you're attractive.

Damn right.

I'm not sure if they'll just sell you the parts, but they might. Here's what went into mine:

• 4346564 --- Custom Fork Springs .64
• SKF48W --- SKF Seal And Wiper Kit WP48 x2
• 3609-0012 --- FORK OIL: Maxima Racing 5wt Fork Oil x2
• 48600380S1 --- HYDR.STOP L=200MM D=31,9 CPL. >'06 265mm stretch x2
• 48600226 --- 420mm Cartridge Tube >'06 265mm stretch x2
• 1309-01 --- Ohlins Suspension Oil 2.5wt
• SSOS18 --- 08+ KTM Shock Seal
• Shock Spacer --- Preload spacer for 05.5-06 950 "S" Stretch (to 245mm)
• 50180288 --- Rebound Shim for 950 10mm Stretch

Total parts cost: $765.62, including the 3mm additional assembled preload, revalving and new seals to replace the buggered ones.

Labor $550. No shipping costs because my bike was just around the corner from them, so they picked up the parts.

You are more than welcome, me old china plate!

Helpful, thanks.

Forgotten how many stone you weigh...

13-stone (ish), which in your money is around 180lbs.

I tend to travel light (Uscombo40 on the tail usually does the trick on quick 'n' dirty solo runs), but will obviously be running the Overlander 60 panniers, with a UScombo (probably the 40, but anything up to 70 liters when I have company) and larger items of camping gear strapped to back on longer trips. Obviously I can't disclose the wife's weight on here, but I don't think she'd mind me describing her as 5' 10" and stacked. Make of that what you will...

Toodle-pip, old bean!

You can also go with the KTM powerparts Non-S (210mm) -> S (265mm) conversion kit: 60112950033

$750..

IMO if you know how to work on the suspension (I bet you do, as you're attractive), and you're OK. with the stock springs & valving, you can carry out the labour on your own using this kit, saving a lot of money.

http://shop.ktm.com/int_en/powerparts/suspension/street/high-chassis-kit.html

Yeah, I saw that, and with a parts discount I can beat that price- but I can't use the stock springs. I'm about 40-50 lbs too attractive. Once I replace the springs and fix the stock valving, the savings is lost.

Need a few more photo clients.

Wonder why they say this kit is only for non ABS bikes?