Ride to Iran from Turkey

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Herman, Jul 7, 2006.

  1. Herman

    Herman Where to ride next...

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2004
    Oddometer:
    63
    Location:
    Istanbul, Turkey
    I wrote this report for a Turkish forum and I am adding English text. I hope you don't mind.

    Iran’a gitmeyi insan niye ister? - Who on earth wants to ride in Iran?


    Gezgince bir dü?ünce yap?s?na sahipseniz bu soru anlam?n? yitiriyor. Bir co?rafya var ise, oray? gezmek, görmek, insanlar? ile tan??mak, yollar?n? çi?nemek, kokular?n? duyup rüzgar?n? hissetmek güzeldir. Bunlar? yapmak insan? biraz daha tamamlar.
    If you have a traveller way of thinking, any part of the world is interesting. Besides Iran is our neighbour on the east.

    Peki neden ?imdi ?ran? - But why now?
    Biz, çiçe?i burnunda gezginler, zaman?nda yolumuzu ?öyle belirlemi?tik: önce ya?ad???m?z ?ehir, onun çevresi, sonra daha geni? çevre, sonra Türkiye genel, kö?e bucak Türkiye, sonra Türkiye çevresi ve k?smet olursa onun da ötesi. Bitmeyecek bir proje bu ama en az?ndan ba?lang?ç noktas? belli: bizim mahalle!
    Some time ago, when we decided to travel as much as we can on our bikes, we needed a pespective. We decided to travel, starting from near to more distant places. Namely, first Istanbul and Marmara regions and then making larger circles each time, evenually meeting the country borders and beyond. A non ending project. But we would always know our direction.

    Projemizi yava? yava? ilerletiyoruz ancak her a?amas?n? tamamlamak mümkün olmuyor. Hala Marmara bölgesinde az da olsa girilmedik yol var. Türkiye geneli i?e eksiklerle dolu. Yine de dört taraftan s?n?rlara ula?t?k, her bölgeden geçtik ve bunu yava? yava? sindirerek yapmaya çal??t?k.
    The idea is to ride on every possible road but unfortunately we often have to leave many roads uncovered. Too many roads, so little time. Still, we have seen all the regions of our country (Turkey) from the saddle and have reached the borders at all directions.

    2005 Karadeniz gezimiz -
    Our trip to Black Sea Region in 2005:
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    ?kiteker’deki Karadeniz gezi raporumuz:
    You may see pictures from that trip here: http://www.ikiteker.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=67537#67537

    S?n?rlara ula?t?kça ötesini merak eder olduk. Yunanistan, Suriye ve Ürdün gezileri yapt?k.
    As we have reached the borders, the time has come to see new countries. First to Greece and then to Syria and Jordan.

    2004 Suriye Ürdün Gezimiz - Our ride to Syria and Jordan in 2004:
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    ?kiteker’deki Suriye Ürdün gezi raporumuz -
    Pictures of this trip may be seen at: http://www.ikiteker.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=3059&highlight=herman

    S?ran?n nereye geldi?ine bizden çok haritam?z karar veriyor. Do?udaki kom?ular?m?z Gürcistan, Ermenistan, Azerbeycan ve ?ran’a tek bir gezide gitmenin yollar?n? arad?k. Planlad?k, niyetlendik ancak k?smet olmad?, pasaportlardaki Gürcistan vizeleri damgas?z kald?. Bu ülkeler hakk?nda okumaya devam ettik ve ?ran’? böyle bir turda sadece kuzeyinden geçmenin ?ran’? görmek demek olmayaca?? anla??ld?. Lonely Planet gezi rehberinde okudukça ?ran cazibesini artt?rd?. Ziyaret edilecek ?ehirler, görülmesi gerekenler ve mesafeler ortaya ç?kt?ktan sonra takvime yerle?tirdik. Gerekli zaman iki haftadan fazlayd?.
    It is our map to decide where to go next. We planned a trip to our neighbours on the east, namely Georgia, Azerbeijan, Armenia and Iran. It turned out to be too complicated due to many border crossings. Besides we would cross Iran from the north of the country only, but there was much more to see there. So we decided to make this an Iran ride only.

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    “?ran’a m?? Ç?ld?rd?n?z m? siz?” - "To Iran? Are you out of your mind?"

    ?ran yolculu?u planlamadaki en zor k?s?m bu tür tepkiler oluyor. Her birimiz onlarca kez benzeri tepkiler ald?k. Foto?rafç?m “abi, sonunda ba??n?za i? açacaks?n?z valla…”, eski bir arkada??m “amaan Hakan sen iyice sap?tt?m valla…” cümleleriyle, i? yapt???m yabanc? firma çal??an? falta?? gibi aç?lm?? gözlerle bir ölüye bakar gibi bakarak, çal??anlar?m az sonra para?ütsüz 10bin metreden atlayacak bir adama bakar gibi bakarak plan?m?z hakk?nda görü?lerini bildirdiler. Anla??ld? ki ?ran ile Irak’?n durumu ço?unluk taraf?ndan ayn? alg?lan?yordu. Bombalar?n Ba?dat ile birlikte Tahran’da da patlad??? zannediliyordu. ABD bombalad? bombalayacakt?, bizi kaç?r?rlard? orada!
    The biggest challenge of planning a trip to Iran is such responses. We were looked at as if we were suicidal. We soon realised that, what people know about Iran are these two images: Humeyni and women in dark cloths. Besides, our media is highly influenced by the western world, so all we hear about the country are news against its politics. For any different news there needs to be an earthquake and thousands must die. That may be worth mentioning briefly!

    Y?llar önce Amerika’da bana Türkiye’nin nas?l bir yer oldu?unu sormu?lard?. Örne?in evlerde mi ya??yordu insanlar, buzdolab? falan var m?yd?? Dünyay? bilmemelerine hayret etmi?tim. Halbuki biz görmesek de New York’un meydanlar?n? bile bilirdik. Ay?plam??t?m bu cahil Amerika’l?lar?. ?imdi yeni yeni ke?fediyordum ki bizim de do?umuza bak???m?z bundan çok farkl? de?ildi.
    I spent some time in USA for my studies and then I was very much surprised to see many Americans totally unaware of the rest of the world.
    Some have never heard the name of my country, others asked me if we lived at homes there! Now I realise that we are not that different from Americans thinking that Iran was unsafe to visit and we would either be killed or kidnapped if we stepped in there.


    Dikkat ederseniz ?ran hakk?nda bas?nda yer alan haberlerin hemen hepsi olumsuzdur. Politik olumsuz haberlerin yan?nda deprem gibi felaket haberleri ancak yer bulur. Yani t?pk? Amerikan bas?n?nda Türkiye’nin yer ald??? gibi. Demek ki neymi?, bas?n? tek haber kayna?? yapan cahil kal?yor!


    ?tiraf edeyim güzergah?m?z hakk?nda yap?lan olumsuz yorumlar bizi zaman zaman yordu. E?lerimizle gidece?imizden daha hassast?k. Bazen onlar? s?k?nt? duyacaklar? veya zevk almayacaklar? bir yere sürükledi?imiz hissine kap?ld?k. En az iki kez vazgeçme durumuna geldik. ?ran’da bulunmu? ve gezmi? dostlar?n anlatt?klar? ile okuduklar?m?z durumu e?itledi. Planlamada grubumuz önce 4, bir ara 6 motor gibi gözüktü. Sonlara yak?n 3, bir ara 2 ve en son 3 motor, 3 çift olarak sabitlendi.
    I have to admit that negative comments were sometimes to hard to bear. We would travel as couples and we came close to cancelling the trip at least twice. Reading and talking to people who visited Iran convinced all of us. Finally our group was 3 couples on three bikes

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    Tarih: 18 May?s – 3 Haziran 2006
    Date: May 18 - June 3, 2006

    Gezginler - Riders: Deniz Erman-Hakan Erman KTM Adv.950 S, Sema Volkan-Mert Volkan Honda Varadero, Emine Külçür-Levent F?rat BMW R1200GS

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    Konsept: ?ran’?n be? önemli ?ehri Tebriz, Tahran, Yazd, ?iraz ve ?sfahan’?n gezilmesi. Ülkenin insan?n? ve gerçek duygusunu hissetmek, zihnimizdeki kocaman bo?lu?un içini doldurmak. Ayr?ca bir kez daha Do?ubeyaz?t ve Erzurum.
    The Aim: To see the 5 most important cities of Iran, Tabriz, Tehran, Yazd, Shiraz and Esfahan. To know its people and get the real feeling of the country. And to visit Erzurum and Dogubeyazit in eastern Turkey, which is always a delight.

    Rota/Konaklama:
    The route, sleeping at:
    Erzurum – Tebriz – Tahran – Yazd – ?iraz – ?sfahan – Tahran – Tebriz – Do?ubeyaz?t - Erzurum
    Erzurum’a motor transferi için TCDD Do?u Ekspresi, Erzurum’a gidi?-dönü? uçak ile.
    Bikes were transfered from Istanbul to Erzurum by train.

    Daily route, distance, sleeping:
    1. Gün, 18/5, 0km, Uçak ile Erzurum, treni kar??layarak motolar?r indirmek. Konaklama: Palan Otel :thumb
    2. Gün, 19/5, 600km, Erzurum-Do?ubeyaz?t-Gürbulak s?n?r kap?s?-Maku-Tebriz , Konaklama Tebriz Leyla otel diye kötü bir yer
    3.Gün, 20/5, 630km, Tebriz-Tahran, Konaklama Tahran Iranshahr Otel:thumb www.hotel-iranshahr.com
    4.Gün, 21/5, 0km, Tahran gezisi
    5.Gün, 22/5, 680km, Tahran-Qom-Kashan-Yazd, Konaklama Malek-o Tojjar oteli :thumb
    6.gün, 23/5, 0km, Yazd gezisi
    7.Gün, 24/5, 430km, Yazd-Abarkuh-?iraz, Konaklama Aryo Barzan Otel :thumb www.aryohotel.com
    8.Gün, 25/5, 0km, Persepolis ve ?iraz gezisi
    9.Gün, 26/5, 490km, ?iraz-Yasuj-Shahreza-?sfahan, Konaklama Azadi otel :thumb
    10.Gün, 27/5, 0km, ?sfahan gezisi
    11.Gün, 28/5, 0km, ?sfahan gezisi
    12.Gün, 29/5, 440km, ?sfahan-Kashan-Qom-Tahran
    13.Gün, 30/5, 630km, Tahran-Tebriz, Konaklama Tebriz International hotel :thumb
    14. Gün, 31/5, 0km, Tebriz ve Kandovan gezisi
    15. Gün, 01/06, 270km, Tebriz-Maku-Gürbulak-Do?ubeyaz?t, meteor çukuru, Nuhun gemisi gezisi, Konaklama Sim-Er otel :thumb
    16.Gün, 02/06, 330km, Do?ubeyaz?t-A?r?-Pasinler-Erzurum Konaklama: Palan Otel
    17. Gün, 03/06, 0km, Motorlar? trene, kendimizi uça?a yüklemek ve eve dönü?.

    Toplam motosiklet yolu: 4500km
    Distance travelled on bikes: 4500km

    Masraf: Her?ey dahil iki ki?i bir motor üzerinde 2500 YTL
    Cost (all included, per couple): 2500YTL (1500USD)

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    Unutulmazlar:
    Unforgettables:



    - Bizim için o güne kadar “en do?u” olan Gürbulak’? bat?da b?rakmak.
    Leaving the eastern point of Turkey in the west.

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    - Tahran’dan motosiklet manzaralar?
    Biking in Iran

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    - Bir deste para bay?ld???m?z ama çok be?endi?imiz Lübnan lokantas?. Zaten bir deste para nedir ki?
    Cost of fine dining at a restaurant in Tehran. A bargain really.

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    - “Her?eyin yasak olup her yasa??n delindi?i” ülkede motosikletlere yasak olan otoyola girmek. Bizi salan polisin ricas?: “yakalan?ran?z benden kaçt???n?z? söyleyin”.
    Entering the free way where bikes are forbidden to enter. The wish of the police officer who let us in: "If they catch you, tell them you escaped."

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    - 4 kez radara girip bir kez durdurulmak, o da meraktan. Motor dahil 120km/s olan h?z s?n?r?.
    Being stopped only one time while spotted 4 times by radar while speeding and that was for asking where we were from. Good speed limit: 120km/h

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    - Yazd’daki otelimizi kapal? çar??n?n içinde, hatta “dibinde” bulmak.
    Finding our hotel inside a covered bazaar in Yazd.

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    - Otel avlusunda sedirde galyan (nargile) tüttürmek.
    Smoking galyan at hotel's court

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    - S?cak iklimde ö?len vakti ara verilen hayat.
    Giving breaks at hot noon hours

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    - Geleneksel klimalar: Badgirler. Her esintiyi yakalayan, havay? so?uk yeralt? suyu ile serinletip evlere veren bu dahiyane ve estetik bacalar modern klimalardan daha da sa?l?kl?lar.
    Ancient air conditioning: Badgirs. They catch the slightest desert breeze, cool it with underground water and cool our house. Brilliant!

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    - Çölde geli?mi? ince bir kültürün izlerini yans?tan avlulu büyük evler.
    Beautiful houses reflecting a fine desert culture.

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    - Labirent gibi Yazd sokaklar?nda çok zevkli kaybolmalar , gizemli görüntüler.
    Getting lost in Yazd streets.

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    - S?cakta içilen buzlu kavun ve kara dut suyu.
    Finding iced melon and mulberry juice almost anywhere.

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    - Ak?am serinli?inde camide kuran dinleyenlere kar??mak.
    Joining the people listening to Koran at the mosque in the evening

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    - Zerdü?tlerin topra?? kirletmemek için ölülerini akbabalara sunduklar? sessizlik kulelerine t?rmanmak,
    Visiting the Zoroastrian sites and the towers of silance where they left their dead so that vultures could pick the bones clean.

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    - …Ate?gahlar?nda 1600 y?ld?r sönmeden yanan kutsal ate?i seyretmek.
    Sacred Ethernal Flame burning for the last 1600years.

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    - Zagros da?lar?n? 2650 metreden geçmek, Abarkuh çölünde gaz aç?p, aç?k denize aç?lan sürat motoru gibi hissetmek.
    Passing the Zagros mountains at 2650meters and opening gas on Abarqu desert to feel like being on a speed boat on open sea.

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    - Persopolis’de olmak.
    Being at Persepolis.

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    - Pers ?mparatorlu?u hakk?nda ilginç ve güzel ?eyler ö?renmek: Persepolis’in M.Ö.518’de ba?layan in?as?nda çal??an 12000 ki?inin maa?l? i?çi olmas?, çünkü kölelik sisteminin bulunmamas?, kad?nlar?n erkeklerle ayn? maa?? almalar? ve do?um izin hakk? bulunmas?,
    Learning about antient Persia. Ex: They had no slavery system. Women receiving equal salary as men. That is at 518B.C.

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    - …halk?n?n mutlulu?u için dualar eden kral ve ona yakla?ma imtiyaz?na sahip iki ki?i “sinek kovucu ve havlucusu”,
    King praying for the happiness of its peoples.

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    - …Apadana kabartmalar?nda halklar? dostça ellerinden tutarak ba?kente getiren askerler ve her yerde bar??? sembolize eden lotus çiçekleri,
    Soldiers, friendly holding hands of the peoples and shving them the capital of the first ever empire.

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    - ?iraz kapal? çar??s?nda çok pazarl?k az al??veri?.
    A ot of bargaining at Shiraz bazaar.

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    - ?ran’da her evde mutlaka bulunmas? gereken iki kitap var imi?: Kuran ve Haf?z. 13. yy ?airi Haf?z’?n kabrinde yüksek sesle ?iirlerini okuyan, mezar?n? öpen, orada zaman geçiren ayd?n kalabal??? gözlemek, Anadolu’da ?ss?z ve sahipsiz buldu?umuz Yunus Emre’yi anmak.
    It is said that every house in Iran has at least two books: Koran and Hafez. Hafez, the 14th century poet is still in every ones hearts. His graveyard, full of people reading his poems at midnight.

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    - ?ah Abbas’?n ihti?aml? ?ehri ?sfahan’?n incileri: Jameh camisinde ???kla dans,
    Dancing with the light at Jameh mosque in Esfehan

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    - …Bazar’i Bozorg,

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    - … ?mam meydan?,
    Imam Square, Esfehan

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    - …Imam Cami/Masque,

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    - …Qeysarieh çayhanesinde ö?le s?ca??n? atlatmak,
    Teahouses

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    - …33 göz köprüsü (Si-o-Seh bridge) ve alt?ndan nehir akan çayhanesinde ???ldayan galyan ate?leri,

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    - …Botokslu dudaklar, estetikli burunlar,
    Passion for beauty among Iranian women.

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    - …?eyh Lütfullah camiindekilerden daha muhte?em çini i?i yap?lamayaca??na kanaat getirmek,
    Deciding, in Seyh Lutfullah Mosque thet this is the most spectacular tile work possible

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    - …Chehel Sotun saray?nda Yavuz Sultan Selim ile ?ah Abbas’?n Çald?ran hesapla?mas?na ?ahit olmak, (sol altta at üzerinde elleri arkadan ba?l? Osmanl?’n?n kim oldu?unu bilen var m??)
    Finding the painting of Chaldiran war in 1514, between Shah Abbas and Ottoman Sultan Selim the Grim on the walls of Chehel Sotun Palace

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    - …?ran’da yasal olarak ?arap üretimi yap?l?p kad?nlar?n ba? açabildi?i yeri ziyaret etmek: Ermeni mahallesi Yeni Josut’taki Vank katedrali,
    Visiting the only place where wine is legally produced in Iran: Armenian quarter in Esfehan and Vank cathedral

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    - …mahalle berberine kendimizi teslim etmek…
    Visiting the barber in the neighbourhood

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    …ve sonuç
    ...and the result

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    - Hala baz?lar?na abaküsün hesap makinas?ndan daha pratik gelmesi.
    Still some find abakus more practical for calculation there

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    - Probaganda aleti olarak polis motosikleti. Beyaz çizmeleriyle pek ?irinler de?il mi?
    Using police bikes for propaganda. Don't they look cute in their white boots?

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    - Farsçay? sökmeye çal??mak
    Trying to read Persian. Nice alphabet.

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    - ?nsan manzaralar?
    People

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    En Güzel Yol:
    The best roads:


    - ?iraz’dan ?sfahan’a Zagros da?lar? üzerinden giden yol. Yüzlerce kilometre boyunca 2000 metrenin alt?na inmeyen, 3200 metreye kadar ç?kan yoldaki ihti?aml? manzaralar.
    The road from Shiraz to Esfehan that follow the summits of Zagros mountains. Never below 2000m, passes as high as 3200m. All very well paved.

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    - Tahran – Tebriz aras?nda henüz bitmemi? otobana girmek (Çel?nc ruhu!). Zaman zaman tarlalara girerek de olsa bitirmek, ödül olarak da nefis manzaralar görmek.
    Entering the unfinished part at Tehran-Tabriz freeway. We were rewarded by good scenery.

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    - A?r? Da??n? 90 kilometreden görmek ve yava? yava? yakla?mak.
    To see the Agri (Ararat) mountain at 90 km from the Turkish border.

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    En Kötü Sürpriz:
    Unpleasant Surprises:


    - Yollarda hava karard?ktan sonra baz? araçlar?n farlar?n? yakmamas?.
    Some cars and trucks never turn on their lights even after dark.

    - Sollamak yapmak isteyenler için sizin kar??dan geliyor olman?z?n engel say?lmamas?.
    They overtake no matter what is coming from the other direction. You are responsible for letting way.

    - Bizdeki “kurallar?n çi?nenmesi” al??kanl??? yerine “hiç kural olmamas?” anlay???n?n benimsenmi? olmas?.

    - ?ran’dan sonra Türkiye’de benzin al?p ne kadar tuttu?una bakmak.
    Buying expensive gas in Turkey after leaving Iran.


    En Güzel Sürpriz:
    Pleasant surpise


    - 3 YTL’YE DOLAN DEPOLAR !!! (Evet, bildi?iniz 23lt motosiklet deposunun benzin ile tepeleme dolmas?ndan bahsediyoruz)
    Filling the tank for 3YTL (1.8USD)

    - Trafikteki kurals?zl???n bile bir sistemi oldu?unu ke?fetmek ve uyum sa?layabilmek, hatta zevk almak.
    Discovering that the trafic has a system of its own and you can adapt to it. I even enjoyed it sometimes.

    - Kaos gibi gözüken trafikte kimsenin birbirine ba??rmamas?, k?zmamas?, korna çalmamas?.
    Unlike Turkey, nobody in traffic is angry with each other. They do not horn either.

    - Ülkede Farsça’n?n m? Türkçe’nin mi en çok konu?ulan dil oldu?una karar verememek, anla?mak için ?ngilizce’ye çok az ba?vurmak.
    Finding Turkish speaking people all over the country.

    - ?iraz’da hedefledi?imiz otelin dolu olmas? ancak Mert’in yandaki bakkalda yan?na gelen çocu?a dondurma ikram etmesi, çocu?un otelin sahibinin o?lu ç?kmas? ve otele indirimli taraf?ndan davet edilmemiz.

    - Tahran’da ?stanbul’dan daha geli?mi? ve iyi yap?lm?? bir metro sistemi olmas?.
    Getting aroung Tehran with metro

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    - Türkiye’den çok daha kaliteli yap?lm?? yollar.
    Good roads

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    - Çayhane yeme?i olan ve et ile patl?ca kar???m?n?n havanla dövüldü?ü Abgu?tu pek sevmek
    Abgust food of teahouses.

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    - Hemen hemen bütün polis otolar?n?n Mercedes olmas?.
    Almost all police cars are Mercedes

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    - Tan Erdem gibi iyi bir dostu Tebriz’de bulmak
    Meeting a good friend Tan, in Tabriz

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    En Güzel Gün:
    Best day


    - Gezinin her gününden zevk alsak da Türkiye’ye yakla?t???m?z gün çok heyecenland?k. Bizi uzaktan kar??layan A?r?’n?n yaratt??? büyü müydü? Yoksa içindeyken de?erini bilemedi?imiz özgür, laik ülkemizi mi özlemi?tik? Normal zamanda dikkatimizi çekmeyecek, çok da iyi yap?lmam?? Atatürk heykeli ile bayraklar?m?z ondan m? üzerimizde bu kadar büyük etki b?rakti.
    We enjoyed it all but the last day, seeing Agri mountain of Turkey from the distance made us really excited.

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    Ke?ke...
    I wish we...

    - Bu gezinin ke?kesi yok
    No such thing this time


    ?yi ki...
    I am glad that...


    - ?yi ki yol dostlar?m?z gerçek dostlar
    Our riding friends were real friends

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    - Seçilen mevsim do?ruydu. Do?u Anadolu’da serin, ?ran’?n ortalar?nda s?cak idi. Yaz?n bu bölgeler yan?yor olmal?. Daha once ise kuzeyde so?uk olacakt?.
    We choose the right reason.

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    Yeni Yol Planlar? / Hayal ediyorum, öyleyse var?m
    Plans for new destinations.


    - Syria-Labenon-Egypt

    - Bosna, H?rvatistan, Slovenya, Avusturya az?c?k da ?talya
    Bosnia, Croatia, Slovenia, Austria and some Italy

    Sonuç
    Conclusion


    ?ran’da kendimizi bir kez olsun güvensiz, rahats?z ve hatta yabanc? hissetmedik. Tek istisna trafik olabilir ki onu bile bizdekinden daha bar??ç?l buldu?umuzu söyleyebiliriz. ?ran bize yak?n. Uzakl??? zihninizde ve inan?n zihniniz yan?l?yor. Nüfusunun üçte biri Azeri Türkü olan, her televizyon dizimizi bilen, ?ark?c?lar?m?z?n resimlerini cep telefonlar?nda ta??yan, Türkçe ?ark?lar? Peykan (marka) arabalar?nda ba??rtt?ran insanlar?n ülkesini, ajans haberlerinden tan?may?n, gidin kendiniz ya?ay?n. Bugünkü politik düzen geçici, ?ran medeniyeti ile etkile?memiz ise tarihten geliyor ve devam ediyor.
    We have never felt uneasy or even like a stranger in Iran. They are very hospitable people and we were very often invited to houses for dinner. Police and even the soldiers were kind. The only reason to be stopped was for chatting.

    For a Turkish person it is quite easy to understand its people. They follow Turkish televisions and many asked us questions about some Turkish singers and artist we even did not know.

    The political situation of Iran is a thing of today. But the world civilisation has its roots in these lands and history shapes our future.

    It feels great now to have a different perspective when I hear another news on TV about Iran.


    Dar?s? ba??n?za...

    [​IMG]

    Regards
    Hakan Erman
    KTM 950 Adv.S '05
    Istanbul, Turkey
    #1
  2. Esteban

    Esteban Banned

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2004
    Oddometer:
    5,799
    Location:
    Above Golden
    Herman,

    Thanks for posting about an area I see little of.

    Steve
    #2
  3. usgser

    usgser Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,262
    Location:
    Westside WA
    Wow! Absolutely wonderful write up and pictures. I'm going to have to go back through it a couple of more times to fully absorb it all. Thank you Herman!
    #3
  4. BMWs2Dave

    BMWs2Dave Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2005
    Oddometer:
    310
    Location:
    Napa, CA.
    Nice post!
    I was impressd with the tile work on the Mosques. Someone spent a lot of time building that.
    #4
  5. BigBear42

    BigBear42 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2004
    Oddometer:
    193
    Location:
    La Talaudiere, France
    Fantastic report and great pics, thanks a lot to share theses with us. From France too Iran seemed like an impossible destination....not any more.:clap :clap :clap :clap
    #5
  6. michnus

    michnus Lucky bastard

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
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    2,067
    Location:
    South Africa
    Bloody excellent, and a great ride report:clap
    #6
  7. Sol y Sombra

    Sol y Sombra Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2004
    Oddometer:
    196
    Location:
    Mheer, the Netherlands
    What an incredibly beautiful country. Great report!
    I wonder about the language: did you speak Turkish with some people, or do you speak Arabic?
    :clap
    #7
  8. Komet

    Komet The Voice of Reason

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2002
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Memphis, Tennessee
    Very nice photographs.
    #8
  9. dirtypumpkin

    dirtypumpkin "Monster Truck Bike"

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2005
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    Location:
    Northern California
    Great trip, thanks for sharing. Outstanding images.:freaky
    #9
  10. escuchamente

    escuchamente Let's Ride

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    493
    Location:
    Bay Area
    Thanks for taking the time to not only post the photos, but to describe them and your experiences.
    #10
  11. taco

    taco Guest

    cok guzel arkadash!:clap
    #11
  12. Deuce

    Deuce Crazy Canuck

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2001
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Vancouver Island, Bitchin' Columbia, Canada
    Awesome photos and great report. Thanks for sharing :clap
    #12
  13. araspitfire

    araspitfire Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2005
    Oddometer:
    419
    Location:
    Voorburg, The Netherlands
    Wow! :clap



    Al...
    #13
  14. 100mpg

    100mpg Self Imposed Exile

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2006
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    Location:
    NA
    Beautiful photos! The decorations on the building are incredible! They were build a LONG time ago and the detail is beyond belief.

    It seems to me every the people in every country that ADV riders travel to are great. It must be the governments that cause the problems. Ban all governments!
    #14
  15. AdvCav

    AdvCav Stay Alive - Stay Aware

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    SouthEast (formerly NW)
    Thanks for the exposure Herman.
    #15
  16. Herman

    Herman Where to ride next...

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2004
    Oddometer:
    63
    Location:
    Istanbul, Turkey
    The language in Iran is Farsi. Iranians are not Arabs, they are Farsi.
    There are about 20 million Azeri Turks living in Iran who speak Turkish as well as Farsi.
    #16
  17. GB

    GB . Administrator Super Moderator Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2002
    Oddometer:
    67,034
    Absolutely fantastic! Ma'shallah, ÇOK GÜZEL!

    Yes, Farsi is the language, but they use the Arabic alphabet to write it, much like the Turks did before Ataturk switched your language from using the Arabic alphabet to the Latin alphabet!

    Fantastic! :thumb :thumb

    :bow :bow

    :clap
    #17
  18. DirtDOG

    DirtDOG Same Dog, New Tricks

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    I feel that this is one of the most enlightening trip reports on this board, ever. Thanks for the view as it has special meaning because of my association with an Iranian family in an earlier part of my life. :thumb :thumb :clap
    #18
  19. kdude

    kdude Happy to be here !

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2004
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    2,039
    Location:
    Montreal & Ft. Lauderdale
    Wow... talk about the best ride report ever. I hope this report in one way or another helps each country understand each other i little bit better. I don't think any politian or newspaper could ever convey what a beautiful place Iran is and hope is in the world's future.
    #19
  20. jlsworks

    jlsworks Acid Stained

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2002
    Oddometer:
    807
    Location:
    Norman, OK
    Fantastic! Thanks for sharing your trip.
    James
    #20