Riding around Southern Africa on an XT250 and CRF250

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by maria41, Oct 2, 2018.

  1. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    Day 45 – Zambia, Lusaka- 135kms – Thursday 12th July

    We were not in a rush, but somehow, we were told breakfast was at 7:30, so we woke up early.

    A large group of about 10 or 12 white girls, in their late teens early 20s, arrived with an old bloke, to have breakfast. I think they could have been Germans. By the time we loaded the bikes they seemed to have a working group going with some locals, sitting in circle in the shaded garden, with pads and notes. The girls seemed very young, so I thought they might be students (on holiday :hmmmmm) volunteers doing some stuff around?

    We left soon after 9.


    For about 70kms, the road was in terrible condition. As before, we had to slalom to avoid massive potholes. It was also very busy with many trucks. Many of those trucks seemed broken down by the side of the road. I was not surprised considering the state of the tarmac. The weather was cloudy but not too cold.

    We arrived in town around midday. The traffic was going nowhere as all the roads end up in Lusaka and there is no ring roads or anyway to avoid the town centre.

    So even massive trucks were sucked into the centre and toward Cairo Road. It was very slow going with minibus drivers and taxis all over the place as well as street vendors walking on the road, between cars, selling anything from jeans or shoes to trinkets.
  2. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    We wanted to stop at Best of Bikes, a motorcycle workshop near or on Cairo Road, as we would be riding near their shop. They did not have a proper address. It said on their website they were on Cairo road, the main road in Lusaka. But Cairo Road is a very long road.

    In the end, we stopped at a petrol station and Alistair went on foot try to find the place, based on Google Map guessed location, but it was not where Google Map said it was!

    So we decided to ride to the Airbnb flat. That also took a while. I just wanted to get out of the heavy mental traffic, as it was rather stressful.

    The Airbnb place was off the main road, through a dirt road with a big tall metal gate. Perfect for our bikes. Our studio had a little kitchen and a nice terrace in the garden. It was beautiful.

    After getting changed, we walked to the local supermarket.
  3. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    Our AIrBnB street (rather typical of the area):

    [​IMG]

    By then it was mid afternoon and we needed some food. We got enough for a snack and dinner. We decided that Alistair would ride the next day to Best of Bikes and check their tyres. If they were good quality I may also change my rear tyre. My Shinko tyre could still go on for a while. For Alistair, his Mitas rear tyre was looking very tired and had to be replaced.

    The flat had a washing machine so we decided to do a big load with almost all our clothes.

    We were staying in Lusaka until Sunday. I had to do some planning for the next few days of travel across eastern Zambia and our visit to South Luangwa National Park. Long distances with little fuel and campsites. And Alistair needed to do a bit of maintenance on the bikes.


    The best of plans…. :doh


    Nice area of Lusaka:

    [​IMG]
    forgorin, Davidprej, mbanzi and 2 others like this.
  4. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    Days 45 to 50 – Zambia, Lusaka ( Friday 13th to Tuesday 17th July)

    That Friday morning Alistair rode to Best of Bike to check out their tyres. They only had cheap bad quality Chinese tyres and even the staff there advised him to keep the Mitas (CRF rear tyre).


    In the afternoon we walked to the local shopping mall. We were staying in an AirBnB and had a small kitchen so we wanted to cook some vegs. The little studio flat was located in the back garden of a large mansion, behind a tall metal gate. All the area was like that: big plots with big one-storey buildings and large gardens. Everyone had security but nothing too bad. It was obviously the nice area of Lusaka as the Parliament was a short walk away with High Commissioners mansions and embassies around.


    The city, however, is built for cars with no pavement for walkers. So you either walk on the road, with the cars or across the front gardens and piles of dirt, rocks, and rubble that constitute the sides of the road/street, as well as very wide deep open drains. A health and safety officer would have a fit!


    On Saturday morning, as Alistair was doing some maintenance on the bikes, he cleaned the oil gauge glass on my bike. The glass went inside the engine! Big “oops” moment. He phoned Best of Bike and pushed my bike to their showroom, a good 5 kms away (in a back street near Cairo Road :muutt. Then the bike had to be trucked 35kms away to their workshop.
    forgorin, Davidprej, mbanzi and 2 others like this.
  5. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    The workshop closed at lunchtime on Saturday and reopened only the following Monday, so there was not much to do but wait.


    I spoke with the Airbnb owner and we were able to stay until Monday. After that they had a guest.


    We investigated few local hotels in the area. With only one bike, we wanted something close by. The problem with that was that both Booking.com and Google Maps locate hotels in completely random places and often miles away from where they really are.


    This happened to us a lot also in Russia and Central Asia. You think your hotel is in the town centre, as showing in the map, and you end up miles out of town in the middle of nowhere. That is if you can it in the first place! More often that not, we could not.


    Anyhow, after a lot of walking around on Sunday, Alistair located a guesthouse that had room for us, about a mile away.


    So on Monday, he took some luggage there on his bike. Then he came back and picked up more stuff (tank bag, backpack, small roll bag). Then he came back and picked me up.


    The hotel was rather run down but it was fairly cheap at 40 USD per night, including breakfast, so that would do.


    After that we contacted the mechanic dealing with my bike. They confirmed the XT would be ready and back in town for Tuesday morning. We just had to wait.
  6. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    So the next day we finally picked up my bike. I had to ride pillion on the CRF, which is not great as it has no passenger’s foot pegs.

    The mechanic had to reuse the crankshaft cover gasket and glued the gauge window. It should last until we are back in the UK. Then I will need to order few parts from the US.

    On the way back, we rode to the local Honda dealer, to check if they had tyres. They did not. So we would had to carry on and hope our back tyres would last until we were back in South Africa. It was highly unlikely that we would find tyres in Malawi or Mozambique.


    After that, once we dropped the bikes, walked to the mall to get some supplies for few days camping in South Luangwa National Park. I took also the opportunity to investigate and plan more precisely our itinerary across Malawi and Mozambique and agree the details with Alistair. We decided to avoid Zimbabwe, as they had the presidential elections at the end of July, and things could turn hectic there.
    forgorin, Davidprej, mbanzi and 2 others like this.
  7. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    Day 51 – Zambia, near Petauke (Chimwemwe lodge) – Wednesday 18th July, 410 kms



    We left Lusaka early and only stopped for fuel at the last fuel post for a long time. Our map showed a good 320kms without petrol stations, so we also filled the 5 litre canister. In the end, mid way, we came across a new petrol station. The buildings were still in construction, but they were open for business.


    [​IMG]



    The road, for half way, was rather boring and busy. It was lined with constant traditional villages (small huts and mud houses) lined with constant cyclists and walkers, women carrying water on their head, kids in school uniforms, men walking around…. not much privacy for a quick pee stop. And many goats, pigs, donkeys and cows wandering around.


    In one small village, a massive coach came in the opposite direction. As usual, goats were on the road. 2 small kids (baby goats) in particular, did not look like they would move.


    They were standing on the incoming traffic line. I slowed down, expecting them to jump in front of me at any time. An incoming coach came at full speed, only vaguely hooting, the 2 goats did not move. As I came to the level of the coach and goats, all I heard was a big “thump” noise. The driver did not even bother to slow down! I gasped in horror. I did not expect that! People along this road are very poor; a goat is worth a lot to them. I understand why the big buses had massive metal bumpers!
  8. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    We passed many police checkpoints and, soon after Lusaka, a toll. We were waved through the toll. The police never bothered with us either and just waved us through. The only time we got stopped was actually soon after crossing the border from Namibia. The poor police officer was alone and bored. We exchange few jokes and he let us go!

    About 200kms from Lusaka we crossed over a massive bridge over the Luanga river. The views were stunning but we could not stop for photos.

    The weather was cold and cloudy and we had a strong headwind, as every morning since we started this trip. It seems the wind blow from the east. It usually calmed down early afternoon.

    Although the road has many villages, there was no accommodation, shops, coffee shops or anything where you could stop for a rest. All along, people and children waved and smiled at us. Zambian are friendly.

    After a long cold day ride, we arrived at the junction with Petauke. From my research, I knew there was some sort of hotel around. We found is eventually. From the outside, it looked nice. Inside, as usual since we left Namibia, it was poorly built, neglected and run down.


    [​IMG]

    The lodge had little individual wooden cabins or more expensive bricks ones. We took the cheap wooden cabin for 350 ZK (about 35 $). They had a small restaurant, so we wandered there after a hot shower. I was absolutely frozen and asked reception for extra blankets. It was going to be a very cold night.

    At the restaurant we had a choice of fish, pork or chicken. Rice or chips. We still had to wait a good hour to get our fried fish and rice. After eating, I felt a bit warmer. I never imagined Zambia could get this cold.

    Tired and shivering, we got back to our hut for the night.
  9. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    Day 52 – Zambia, South Luangwa National Park – Croc Valley camp – Thursday 19th July – 310kms

    That night we had a massive storm. There was no rain but a very violent wind. As we woke up, the sky was dark grey and fences and debris from a construction site had been blown away by the wind. It was cold and still very windy.

    I did not look forward to ride with such strong wind. We waited until 10am before setting off, with all my layers on. We neglected to put our trousers waterproof though. After all, this is the dry season right?

    After riding for a while, it got colder and started to rain.

    We had to stop to fetch our waterproof over-trousers. While we got them on, we provided some unusual entertainment to a young lad on a bicycle, across the road, who kept watching us. Women, carrying heavy baskets on their heads, passed near us, laughing and saying a friendly hello.

    As I finally sat on my bike, ready to leave, I smiled and waved a big good bye to the lad across the road, who gave me a big smile and waved back.



    [​IMG]
  10. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    [​IMG]


    By mid afternoon we arrived at Chipata, in the south east of Zambia, near the border with Malawi.

    For now, we only stopped there to buy some fuel and at the local Spar, to get some lunch. As soon as we arrived at the Spar parking lot, moneychangers surrounded us. It always makes me feel nervous, being surrounded by a bunch of guys, talking or shouting all at the same time.

    We explained we were not going to Malawi and did not need their services. Eventually they left us. While Alistair went inside the supermarket, I kept watch of the bikes, being offered constantly goods by street sellers and being asked money by the many beggars that seem to populate border towns. I hate border towns. They always have that feel of crooks, thieves and danger.

    Eventually, Alistair came back with a chicken pastry and two samosas, and some Diet Coke. After eating, we got out of town and picked up the road up to South Luangwa National Park.
  11. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    Surprisingly, the road to the national park was all tarmac, contradicting my trusted paper map, which was nice. I was expecting a very bad road.


    After 130kms of a small country road, up and down many hills, lined, once again, with many villages and people walking around, pigs, goats, cows wandering and eating by the side of the road, we saw the sign for Croc Valley Camp. I selected this campsite, among many available in the region, because it was one of the cheapest (I like a good bargain!) and also it provides safari drives in the national park at a reasonable cost! Once again motorbikes were not allowed in the park.


    We decided, as it was just only 10 dollars more, to get one of the large Safari (canvas) tent, instead of using our small flimsy dome tent. Later on we realised it was a very wise decision!

    The tent was big, with two beds and enough room for all our stuff. It had a thatched roof over the tent, which would come handy. It also had a pick-nick table outside and a big heavy metal box with a large padlock. The ‘door’ of the tent had also a padlock.

    After changing out of our motorcycle clothes, we went for a walk around the large campsite grounds, and immediately saw all the monkeys, as well as the large baboons. So many of them!

    There was a communal kitchen that had to be kept locked. We got a copy of the key at reception to access it. We were instructed that all the food had to stay in metal containers or in the fridge and the door should be locked at all times. We were not allowed to leave any food near the wired fenced windows. Hmmm…?
    Apparently, during the winter season, when food is scarce, elephants wander around the campsites and will steal any food they can reach. A tent, window or car door is no match for them. And then of course, there are the monkeys.

    The campsite was not too busy. A large overland truck from a tour company left that same day. Few tourists were around, staying in the safari tents or at the more expensive rooms and chalets.
  12. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    Walking from our tent to the bar area, we observed, from a safe distance, a large gang of baboons completely flattening a small dome tent and stealing some cloths. They were also all over the car parked next to it. The staff, unlike in Ai - Ais, did nothing to stop them. I was glad we decided to stay in the big solid canvas tent.


    [​IMG]


    Later on, a member of staff told me that monkeys are not afraid of women (sexist pigs, or monkeys in this case!), and often steal food from the hand of women. So he told me I should be cautious when and where I was eating. As it was dark, all the monkeys were gone. So it was ok. We cooked some vegs and noodles and ate our dinner in one of the many nice sitting areas.


    The camp was set next to the river and we could see many hippos lying around. They can walk across the camp at night, as well as elephants, crocs and other wildlife.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    forgorin, Smidty, joenuclear and 5 others like this.
  13. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    Day 52 – Zambia, Croc Valley camp – Friday 20th July – 0kms

    A bit before 7am we got woken up by a very large group of baboons. There was a massive fight going on, the noise, screams and rage going on, was pretty scary. They were all over our tent, the roof, the trees, our front door, with a bit of the fight just on my side of the tent. I was so glad to be inside a solid canvas tent. It was a very large group and the males were massive! I did not fancy an 80kgs baboon ripping through the tent!

    We eventually came out, once the baboons settled their differences. We went to the kitchen building and ate our breakfast inside, standing around the table. There were no chairs but I did not want my breakfast stolen by scary big baboons again!

    We had booked a drive to the National Park, starting at 4pm.


    [​IMG]

    So we did not do much while waiting for our drive.

    The campsite discouraged people walking to the village but provided a shuttle service at noon, for free. So we took the shuttle service and visited the village. Elephants and wild animals roam free in the area, as it is so close to the National Park.

    The village:

    [​IMG]


    Lots of souvenirs stalls:

    [​IMG]


    Alistair considering a shave at the local barber :D:

    [​IMG]


    Or maybe this one:

    [​IMG]



    The fuel station, with no fuel. You will notice that, like everywhere else, people are glued to their mobile phones. Zambia is no exception:

    [​IMG]
    forgorin, mbanzi and Dirt Road Cowboy like this.
  14. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    At 4pm, we got into the safari car, with 7 other guests and 2 guides, and drove to the park. The park entrance was very close to our camp. The park was much more impressive than Etosha, in Namibia, we thought.

    It was forested and had a higher density of wildlife. We saw many elephants, giraffes, zebras, hippos, crocs and many different sorts of antelopes. We also got incredibly close to them. They did not seem bothered by us.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    By 6pm it started to get dark. The safari car had a massive torch that a guy used to highlight the bushes. Predators are active at night so we were looking for them. The previous day they had seen many lions and a leopard. We were quite keen to see big cats. Unfortunately we saw none. We came across few solitary hyenas though. One of them was just lying down next to the road, totally ignoring us. It looked rather cute actually. They were smaller than I thought, the size of a big dog.


    [​IMG]



    Back to camp around 8pm, we went to the kitchen to prepare our dinner. We met the unfortunate owners of the tent that had been flattened by the baboons the day before. It was a Canadian / US couple. They told us that the baboons had also urinated all over their tent and covered their car with poo. Nice!


    We had a drink at the bar and went to chat with them again, around their campfire.
    forgorin, mbanzi and Dirt Road Cowboy like this.
  15. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    Day 53 –Malawi, Lilongwe – 290 kms - Saturday 21st July

    I woke up around 6am. I could not hear any monkeys around so I decided to go to the loo.

    As I came out of the shower blocks and walked back to the Safari tents area, built in a wide circle with the shower block at the exit, a large antelope, with very beautiful markings on its back and big sharp antlers, was standing in the middle of the circle. I was as startled as it was and after a moment of surprise, looking at each other, we decided to ignore each other. I walked slowly to my tent on one side of the circle, and it walked slowly and gracefully around the other side.

    10 minutes later, tucked in bed, we heard a rumble. It was not the hippos, which kept rumbling all night. The tree near our tent was being strongly pulled. Alistair unzipped the window on his side. We saw large tusks. There were few large elephants eating from the tree!


    We found out later that a group of 40 elephants had crossed the camp. And also that a leopard was lying by the chalets around 5:30 am!


    Asking the staff about the notice to check the pool for crocs and animals, they confirmed that they had pulled out snakes from it and that indeed the older pool had attracted crocs, hippos and elephants! But there was no much risk at this time of year, as the water is too cold.


    All I can say is that Croc Valley Camp was an amazing place to see wildlife. It was magical! Definitely worth the detour!
  16. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    We left quite early as we were planning to cross the border into Malawi and ride to the Capital City, Lilongwe.

    Back at Chipata, the border town, we stopped to buy fuel and some food for an early lunch at the same SPAR than before. After that, we avoided the moneychangers hanging around and rode the 20 kms to the border.

    We parked the bikes near the office. We got our passports stamped out then the next window was Customs. They filled and stamped the carnet for the bikes, gave us a Pass to exit the border and told we were good to go. Then we dealt with the moneychangers there.


    We had checked the rates the day before. We had about 450 Zambian kwachas left (about 40USD), and got 40,000 Malawi Kwachas. It was a good rate.

    Then we handed our pass to exit. Except that there was a local tax to pay. In Zambian Kwachas only! Argh! Moneychangers again. I stood by the bikes, grumbling under my breath, while Alistair dealt with the tax.


    Then we rode to the Malawi side, surrounded, once again, by the moneychangers.

    We filled a couple of forms and pay 75$ each for the visas. We could pay with US dollars for that.


    Then we went to the custom office to get the Carnets filled for the bikes. We were told we also had to pay a road tax of $20 each and needed proof of third party insurance for the bikes. Obviously there was a guy from the insurance desk hanging around. We paid 25,000 Kwachas each for the insurance. We changed $50 dollars as both the road tax and the insurance had to be paid in Kwacha (MK).

    All that back and forth took about an hour and a half, not too bad considering.


    After the border we rode into Malawi!
    forgorin, Smidty, mbanzi and 3 others like this.
  17. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    The villages along the road seemed to have better housing, built in bricks rather than wood. The roofs were metal rather than thatched. I guess, as there were less forests and more agricultural land, there is less wood available for construction, so locals have to buy bricks to build homes. Many were painted in white or blue and looked fine.

    On the road we saw some tribal men wearing non European style costumes.

    We arrived at Lilongwe. The town was confusing, with forest surrounding everthing, the streets built across the forest, with far away buildings we could barely see through the trees. It was hard to find our way round or a precise address! We had selected a guesthouse that had good ratings in booking.com and made the error of not cross-referencing the address on another site. As usual with booking.com, the guesthouse probably exists but somewhere completely different, 80kms away!


    Street in Lilongwe. Confused? Me too!


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
    mbanzi and Dirt Road Cowboy like this.
  18. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    After that, we went in search of another guesthouse called Japan House. It had good ratings in booking.com. It was on the GPS. We arrived at a gated community. No signs of hotel. We asked one of the guards at the gate. He took us to a house! Hmmm! It had an A4 sheet saying Japan House. Hmmm.

    It was actually a house where 2 Japanese young guys lived in.

    It had a spare bedroom with 3 bunk beds and an en-suite bathroom.

    The guy receiving us made us wait a good 15 minutes while he prepared the room. We had to remove our shoes inside. Not sure why as the floor was filthy. The house was a tip. 2 guys living there, no cleaner, the bathroom was such that I did not want to touch anything. At least we had clean sheets. The floor was sticky and dirty and covered in hairs, the kitchen a health hazard… we got changed and walked to the nearby shopping mall, as we needed cash.

    We found an ATM machine. We used several cards to get enough cash. Then we had some dinner at the mall. By then it was dark. Night fell at around 6pm, as we were still on the same time zone since South Africa, but we had travelled quite a long way East.

    We walked back in the dark, which was quite tricky (and unwise) as there was no pavement and the road was dangerous with fast moving cars. We had to walk by the sandy track that could have holes, garbage etc…

    Back at the house, there was a young woman waiting. We had seen her at Croc Valley camp, she was in our safari car the previous day. Veronica was Colombian, studying in Barcelona and backpacking around during the summer holidays. We freed the third bunk bed of our stuff. I had not used dormitories for quite a long time!

    There was no hot water, and none of use fancied stepping into the filthy bath, so no shower for us that day!

    At least the WiFi worked so we read stuff in our respective bunk beds and chatted with Veronica. It seems the baboons stole her breakfast too, in Croc Valley Camp!
    forgorin, mbanzi and Dirt Road Cowboy like this.
  19. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    Day 54 – Malawi, Senga Bay, Cools Running Camp – Sunday 22d July – 126kms


    Early morning, Alistair walked to the little shopping mall with Veronica, to get some food for breakfast. Veronica also needed cash, as she had crossed the border the day before, like us.

    I would not fancy using buses around here! She told us that she had to take a taxi from the border to the bus station. She was on the front seat of a car with 3 other people, while 6 people were crammed at the back! Taxis are communal in Africa! But the mini buses are even worse according to Veronica!


    After loading the luggage onto the bikes, we left town and the filthy Japan house! That it was rated 8.5/10 in booking.com is unbelievable! It just shows you cannot trust any of those ratings online!

    It was a short 2 hours ride to Senga Bay. Along the road we saw plenty of kids by the side of the road. After all it was Sunday.


    [​IMG]


    They had a long stick with what looked like dead mice, 10 to 20 mice, skewered in those sticks. :scratch Sometimes even more, tightly packed. I found out few days later, talking to an Ozzie expat living in Blantyre, that the kids were really selling roasted mice, which is considered a snack in Malawi! :confused


    Some of them are roasted with the skin on. Not sure they are even gutted! The sight of them was rather revolting, with those little legs and skinny tails sticking out!
    forgorin, mbanzi and Dirt Road Cowboy like this.
  20. maria41

    maria41 www.franglais-riders.com

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    London
    Finding Cool Running Camp was not easy. Even with the GPS. We had to turn back, stop at a fuel station and ask for directions. It had good reviews and was also recommended by a fellow traveller.

    The place was very pleasant. It was very reasonably priced. For 10 USD each, we decided to take the wood hut with real beds rather that set up our very small tent. We had a late lunch of toasted sandwiches on site and didn’t do much after that; the place was full by the end of the day.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    We also had dinner there. The local fish was excellent. It should be, as we were by the edge of lake Malawi. The lake is so big we could not see the other side. There were waves and it looked like the sea.


    [​IMG]


    Women were doing the laundry on the beach while kids played and swam around.

    After our early dinner there was not much to do. It was dark. Most people seemed to have gone to bed very early, so we moved to our hut, away from the many mosquitoes. Our beds had mosquito nets, which was really useful.


    [​IMG]