Riding RTW and back - on as much dirt as possible!

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by rtwpaul, Dec 12, 2015.

  1. danh600

    danh600 Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,614
    Location:
    South Florida
    [​IMG]

    All your pictures speak Paul, but this one really tells a story.
    glenbee, Saso, Doug e fresh and 7 others like this.
  2. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding... Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    5,258
    Location:
    arizona
    no, not a chance, making and selling food in Latin America is a simple way to start a business and nothing is controlled at all, but some of the places you are literally sitting in the kitchen and they have been way cleaner than some stateside restaurants i've had the misfortune to see in the kitchen...after i've eaten
  3. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding... Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    5,258
    Location:
    arizona
    Caraz is not a bad place to be stuck in for two weeks, even with bad food poisoning. A nice little hotel right on the main square, secure parking in the courtyard, and my buddy @mak arrived

    [​IMG]

    His bike is a Yamaha 250 Tenere, pretty much a perfect bike for South America, Fi, amazing mileage of over 400km to a tank and he bought it and sold it for almost the same price. If you have already read the process of how to buy a bike in Colombia, great, if not I wrote an article about it for the editorial front page HERE

    To put this in perspective of how different people can and do travel and how they afford it, Mak had a minor financial loss on the sale of this bike, but to get here he had to save for SEVEN years working in his native India where wages are very, very, low to fulfill a life long dream.

    He then rode and traveled on a budget of around $500-700 a month...and you think you can't afford it! So for less than $5000 for seven months of riding, he had a ball on a solo trip.

    The original plan was to be doing it all with his wife but the US Embassy put stop to that. Unbeknownst to me, Indians have limited priveledges when it comes to travel and the US inadvertently can create a reduction in countries they travel to.

    Colombia DOESN'T allow an Indian citizen to come into the country without a current US Visa, basically, they use the US as their private vetting agency. Mak and his wife applied the same day, he got his, she was refused. She did the honorable thing and told him to go solo...

    We had met months before, we chatted in Caraz and as we were both riding back to Colombia we decided to ride together.


    Heading north out of Caraz put you straight on to Cañón del Pato route, so for the second time, I ride it. It is listed as one of the most dangerous roads in the world...which is a major stretch! You can see thru almost all of the tunnels from end to end and the ones you can't you sound your horn. The road is mostly paved now so no issues with dust anymore

    ...but right here of all places my horn decided to die...oh the irony, but after all the tunnels it started working again!

    [​IMG]

    and into the valley below

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Once you clear the canyon the views go for miles and you can pick your route without using a map

    [​IMG]

    I guess minor electrical issues were happening and somehow my GPS decided to delete some of its tracks as well as it cut off, but then, of course, it came back on and was fine.

    Stopping in a small village in the middle of nowhere, name unknown due to lost tracks we found a town that had been passed by, by the paved road and all that was left was an amazing church, a few people and some very steep cobbled streets

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Not finding an alternative smaller track/ back way out of the village we have no choice but to head back to the main track and ride the more used ( i use that term very lightly) track

    [​IMG]


    We know roughly our heading it's towards that drop-off and down and up the other side...more fun coming...

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
    glenbee, astroman1, Wallower and 77 others like this.
  4. WJBertrand

    WJBertrand Ventura Highway

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Oddometer:
    796
    Location:
    Ventura, CA
    Obviously a solar powered horn is not ideal for tunnels! ;)
  5. skibum69

    skibum69 slave to gravity Super Supporter

    Joined:
    May 14, 2006
    Oddometer:
    13,668
    Location:
    New Melbourne, Newfoundland
    I love how those folks build their roads!
    rtwpaul likes this.
  6. Lopburi

    Lopburi Lost in paradise

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2016
    Oddometer:
    680
    Location:
    Thailand
    Does @mak have a ride report? Sounds like a great story
    DunkingBird likes this.
  7. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding... Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    5,258
    Location:
    arizona
    M
    Makes for a great adventure
    accumack and skibum69 like this.
  8. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding... Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    5,258
    Location:
    arizona
  9. joenuclear

    joenuclear Still here....

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    10,233
    Location:
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Wow! Just Wow.
    rtwpaul likes this.
  10. Jetlag Jon

    Jetlag Jon Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2018
    Oddometer:
    156
    Location:
    Manchester, Lancs
    Great report and awesome photos. Your ride report has pretty much decided me on Peru at the end of this year.
    rtwpaul likes this.
  11. jays100

    jays100 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2006
    Oddometer:
    479
    Location:
    CT
    after all this time, still lovin it! great job and please, keep'em coming!
    rtwpaul, ricochetrider and Dracula like this.
  12. klebs01

    klebs01 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2009
    Oddometer:
    325
    Location:
    Milwaukee, WI
    Paul- I’m 90% committed to starting a RTW trip this year. One question I have is how much do you plan your route in advance vs planning the night before or just seeing where you end up? I don’t want to miss certain things, but also want to be open great options or experiences.
  13. Maximus64

    Maximus64 Betamus Chingamus Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    130
    Location:
    Abilene, TX
    Hi Paul. Great report! If you are still in the process of picking up your Tenere and happen to swing through Abilene, Tejas, I’d be glad to accommodate you again. Beer’s still cold.

    Safe travels
    AdvNuma likes this.
  14. snobear

    snobear Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    923
    Location:
    Saskatchewan Canada
    Crazy how these critters blend in with their surroundings

    [​IMG]
  15. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding... Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    5,258
    Location:
    arizona
    Actually all three.

    It makes me laugh when I hear a lot of riders say I don't plan AT ALL I just let it happen...LIAR! They are just trying to sound edgy, they must at some point decided about a direction however vague it may have been, that's called planning!

    For me I like to look at a very general direction, mostly to try and think later down the road if I'll need to ship the bike, at this point, I'm just looking at the planet and continents

    After that, once I know my basic direction, then I would be a little more precise on actual locations I might want to see, iconic places not to be missed, once in a lifetime experiences, Machu Picchu, Masi Mara, Ghengis Khan Monument etc

    Then after that, it gets kinda vague, I'll look at a map and try and find remote roads to get from A to B, talk to locals and other riders and then when actually riding just be open for change if a different track looks better than the one I'm currently on.

    I think of it like this, there are tourist guides like 'Rough Guide To....or 'Lonely Planet' or similar, I like to avoid almost all of the recommended places, they are usually busy, high priced and not motorcycle friendly. Unique experiences are not found at those places anymore.
  16. Saso

    Saso Happily sporting the DRD4 gene Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,117
    Location:
    Base camp
    Yup - talk to locals, preferably over beers. No question my best days have happened because of those encounters.
    JagLite, Merfman and rtwpaul like this.
  17. Cro59

    Cro59 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2015
    Oddometer:
    832
    Location:
    Tucson, Arizona
    The tourist trail gets old very fast.

    I follow much the same philosophy whether I'm traveling by moto or not. I get an allergic reaction anytime someone broaches the subject of packaged tours. The minimalist approach to planning does come with the risk of missing something, but I enjoy the random experiences and serendipity of going with the flow of the moment.
  18. skibum69

    skibum69 slave to gravity Super Supporter

    Joined:
    May 14, 2006
    Oddometer:
    13,668
    Location:
    New Melbourne, Newfoundland
    Yeah, the Ghengis Khan monument is pretty impressive
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    glenbee, 'Bob', astroman1 and 6 others like this.
  19. klebs01

    klebs01 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2009
    Oddometer:
    325
    Location:
    Milwaukee, WI
    Thanks for the response! Makes total sense. I’m thinking I will do something similar. I’m planning routes now so I can get a sense of timing and highlights, but will be open to changes along the way.
    rtwpaul likes this.
  20. Dracula

    Dracula I don't want a pickle! Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2011
    Oddometer:
    23,302
    Location:
    recalculating
    Thank you for continuing to share your incredible life you have chosen, and ways you think, with us. Would you say if you ever became attached to any motorcycle for any particular reasons, and also if so in terms of pleasure of riding and owning it, or they are to you all replaceable, and need to be just the right tool for the task, without too much fuss?
    Yannick and yokesman like this.