riding/surfing my way south from san diego

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Perdido_, Aug 8, 2019.

  1. RedDogAlberta

    RedDogAlberta High Plains Drifter

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    Great stuff livin' life.
    #41
  2. CONKSO

    CONKSO Been here awhile

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    Camped out at the Ranch at the end of September... man, you're GNARLY. I know how many mosquitoes live in there, and jejenes (aka no-see-ums but way worse in Mex) and the brackish water in the well behind the food shacks... man, that's TOUGH camping. BUT, the surf can get so good there... maybe not in the Fall but in the winter time it gets super clean, it's much drier and the it will blow offshore in the morning. The ranch can be magic. My hat is off to you, roughing it out there in September... that's buggy, hot, humid, wet and did I say buggy already?
    #42
    Lost Cartographer likes this.
  3. Perdido_

    Perdido_ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2019
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    Location:
    Mission Beach, San Diego
    Thanks for the ego boost, wasn’t the easiest camping but really wasn’t too bad
    #43
  4. Perdido_

    Perdido_ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2019
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Mission Beach, San Diego
    Mexico City was a cool city to walk around for a few days (not drive). Tons of crowded one way streets with dividers in the middle- I kept ending up on the wrong side of one particular divider and eventually just drove over it on my third attempt.

    Mostly walked around and ate an absurd amount of pastor. There’s a million alleys lined with vendors and it was easy to spend the entire day eating. Later met up with some friends I met previously in Mazatlán and checked out the pyramids

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    From there I went to Puebla, and then to Oaxaca. Both were very nice colonial style towns, they felt completely different from anything else I’ve seen in Mexico.

    Not a whole lot to report here other than I discovered mole negro, which I think is one of the most underrated Mexican dishes

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    Outside the hostel in Puebla

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    There is always some sort of parade or celebration going on in every town, every day of the week- and with my level of Spanish you can never really figure out what they’re celebrating

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    Day trip to Hierve el Agua, petrified waterfalls an hour outside Oaxaca city

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    Tried chapulines (either a cricket or grasshopper I’m not sure) at the Oaxaca market. They taste mostly like seasoned chips or popcorn and I hear they are great in enchiladas. They also had dried worms if you were still hungry

    Will upload the rest later tonight
    #44
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  5. juicestokes

    juicestokes n00b

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    Yo Tone! It's Josh. MAN THE TRIP LOOKS AWESOME! I was just in mexico city this past weekend (10/4-10/6) too! What a cool city! I was staying in the historic district and went to the pyramids on sunday (10/6). The pastor was sooo good down there! I ate that almost everyday I was there! The driving was nuts down there! The roads were going all over the place. I don't know how you manage on a motorcycle
    #45
  6. Perdido_

    Perdido_ Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Mission Beach, San Diego
    Yo Josh, nice hearing from ya! Trip is going great, looks like I only missed you by a couple weeks down at the pyramids. Look out for the robot, I’m going to call in soon
    #46
  7. Perdido_

    Perdido_ Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Mission Beach, San Diego
    From Oaxaca I took the 131 down to Puerto Escondido, a super rad highway that twists down the mountains for about 7 hours as you avoid unmarked topes and colectivo drivers hugging the wrong side of the road. It’s one of the most scenic roads I’ve been on so far, I took a bunch of gopro footage but just realized the camera was facing down at my handlebars the entire time haha.

    I only planned to stay in Puerto for a couple days but ended up staying almost a week after I snapped my surfboard out at La Punta, the left point at the end of Zicatela. A local ding repair guy did a really good job getting it back together for about $75

    Once the board was ready I left to Chacahua, a national park lagoon about an hour and a half north. To get to the main area in Chacahua, you need to pay a local to boat you across the lagoon to the main island, which is roughly 10 miles long. I paid 250 pesos to take my bike across with me in the panga, which turned out to be a challenge to lift into the boat

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    From the drop off point I rode about 20 minutes to the village at the north end. I’m pretty used to getting stared at as I ride through places on the bike by now, but here was exceptional.

    The beach at the north end is lined with cheap cabanas and identical mariscos restaurants. A guy quickly told me I could camp for free under his palapa if I ordered food from his restaurant so that’s where I stayed for the next 5 or so days. There were a handful of tourists staying on the island and I actually randomly ran into my friends that I was visiting the pyramids with out in the lineup

    The sandbar was really good while I was there, a hollow right peeled out of the entrance of the lagoon all the way down the beach. However, the current coming out of the lagoon was really strong, so most people would only surf at high tide. There was also some good beachbreaks if you were willing to paddle across the river and climb around the point

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    Leaving Chacahua by panga proved to be way more difficult than arriving. A different driver was working the day I left and his panga was taller and had less space. This driver was also older and there was no way the two of us could lift the bike up. I ended up driving it up a plank of wood while he and a woman sat on the edge of the boat to push the side down. When bike got to the top of the wood, it fell level across the other side of the panga. I held it there during the ride while both wheels hung off the edge

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    From there I went back to Puerto for a night, and then towards some right points around Barra de la Cruz for two days.

    The swell dropped off pretty heavy so I spent a day riding up the 175 back towards Oaxaca. When I got up the mountain I went on a big loop through the hills and past some really cool out of the way villages. The roads were all dirt and a mix between fire roads, farm trails, and some crazy hill climbs

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    Attached Files:

    #47
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  8. Perdido_

    Perdido_ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2019
    Oddometer:
    20
    Location:
    Mission Beach, San Diego
    Haven’t updated the blog in a few weeks, been too busy sleeping in hammocks and hunting down Oaxacan mole

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    Since my last post I spent about two weeks moving south towards Salina Cruz looking for surf. There’s roughly 50+ right points in the 3 hour drive and almost all of them produce quality waves on the right swells. I found some really fun waves and a couple breaks that I will leave out of here...

    One of the first points I checked out was Barra De La Cruz. Barra is a relatively crowded spot since the Ripcurl search contest a while back but is also one of the best rights in the area.

    They charge 30 pesos to enter the beach and there is one restaurant on the sand. All the money made here goes back towards the community and their schools, because of this the town is very friendly and welcoming towards tourists compared to the other places I have been to

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    I was staying at Cabana Pepe’s, a row of 10 cheap cabanas filled with other traveling surfers, mostly Australians

    I only planned to stay here for a couple nights, but ended up almost a week after my bike was dead in the water. Not a bad place to be stranded.

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    It was clearly an electrical problem but I know very little about fixing bikes to start with. The battery was holding a charge but it wasn’t getting a spark. There are no mechanics in the town so I ended up having to load it up on a truck and take it about 45 minutes north to get someone who knew what they were doing. The mechanic in huatulco was able to get it running after cleaning out my kill switch and ignition, which was filled with dirt and bugs. The bike worked for about 2 weeks until it started having the same problems again, I changed the battery a few days ago and it seems to be fine- I’m now left with more questions than answers

    From barra I went to playa San Diego, a remote beach with super rad camping and a mellow right hander

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    I would of stayed longer, but I couldn’t get my stove to light and was getting sick of eating crackers and chips. Also the no-see-ums were tearing me apart

    From there I made my way towards La Bamba, a small village about a half hour north of Salina Cruz. I camped next to a restaurant right on 1st point and had some fun sessions by myself

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    To be fair most sets looked nothing like this

    South of Bamba is about 10 world class surf spots, unfortunately the swell direction wasn’t right and they weren’t breaking. Because of this I decided to head inland and start making my way to Guatemala. Will update tomorrow with the rest of the trip
    #48
  9. Dirtnadvil

    Dirtnadvil Long timer

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    awesome journey, can't wait to see the next chapter
    #49
  10. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    Location:
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    Way cool!
    Did you get dropped off here?
    Dropped pin
    Near Oaxaca, Mexico
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/skh9dRqaWGdUPZii9

    Was it not possible to leave via boat on the North end?
    Dropped pin
    Near Villa de Tututepec de Melchor Ocampo, Oaxaca, Mexico
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    I assume most visit from.the north Crossing?
    #50
  11. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    The ultimate costal 2 track right there!
    That's as good as it gets anywhere in the world.
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    #51
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  12. roadcapDen

    roadcapDen Ass, Grass or Gas, no free rides.

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    FYI Surf City in El Salvador Nov 13-16!
    #52
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  13. Perdido_

    Perdido_ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2019
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    Location:
    Mission Beach, San Diego

    I got dropped off at your first pin on the south end of the island, this is where most people I talked to came from. There were boats on the north end as well but I never checked to see if it would be possible to load my bike on them
    #53
  14. Perdido_

    Perdido_ Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Mission Beach, San Diego
    From Concepcion Bamba I started the drive inland towards San Cristobal, my last stop in Mexico. It was a long 6-7 hour ride with periods of heavy rain and wind. One particular stretch coming out of Salina Cruz was so windy I had to lean the bike into the wind to keep straight, and then quickly readjust whenever passing a wall or barrier so I wouldn't swerve left.

    I stayed in San Cristobal for just two days to check out Sumidero national park and go through my bike before crossing into Guatemala.

    Going to Sumidero was one of the only times i left all my gear and saddlebags at the hostel, so it makes sense that it was the one time I ended up needing everything. First I got stopped by a cop who wanted money because I forgot to bring my registration with me. Next I blew out my rear inner tube at the very top of the mountain overlooking Sumidero, about 20km from town.

    I didn’t have any of my tools or spare tubes with me so I was really lucky when a Mexican motorcycle gang rolled up out of nowhere. They filled my tube with some foam which helped for a few minutes and rode next to me as I fishtailed down the mountain to the nearest mechanic. I ended up hanging out with them for the next hour as I got my tires changed.

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    Sumidero National Park

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    I probably should have watched the mechanic change my tube, because it popped again two days later about 50 feet across the Guatemalan border. I didn’t feel like changing my first tire on my own in the middle of this mess so I let another mechanic do it for me.

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    The day after crossing the border I rode all day to Antigua, an old colonial town surrounded by active volcanos

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    I planned to get here by the end of October so I could see the giant kite festival nearby in Sumpango on November 1st. I’m not entirely sure if the festival actually has anything to do with day of the dead or all saints day.

    At the festival, thousands of people gather on top of a hill and take turns flying colorful homemade kites ranging anywhere from 20-50+ feet high. Some make it hundreds of feet in the air, and others crash straight down into the crowd, as seen below

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    While in Antigua, I was jumping around different hostels and made a solid group of friends. We signed up for a two day hike up Acatenango Volcano to watch Fuego volcano errupt at night. The hike up Acatenango was an almost vertical climb for 6 hours. It was probably the most difficult hike I’ve ever been on but also had incredible views of Fuego erupting throughout the night from our tents.

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    #54
  15. 805gregg

    805gregg Long timer

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    If you have bike problems, ask the guys here on Thumper DR 650, they will know
    #55