The 5.10s I've bought in the past have always run small. People say to order a size smaller to get a tight fit, but you don't want it too tight it your doing multipitch or just screwing around at a local crag. If you're bouldering v5 then maybe.... but I like to be able to feel my toes at the end of the day.
They aren't painful but my foot does fill the entire shoe. Good grip on the heel and there's a little "suck" to the arch with each step. They are unlined so I hope they stretch a bit and conform a little more with time. Just local-ish (NC Mtns) bouldering and cragging when out and about. Sent from my PU-286 Explosive Space Modulator
"there's a little "suck" to the arch with each step" Sounds like a good fit, but try not to walk in them, put them on right in font of whatever it is you want to climb. If you walk around in them the dirt you pick up and grind into the soles will make the sticky rubber less effective.
Do you guys still resole your rock shoes ? 5.10 use to have a kit (or just rubber) that you could use to resole with "better" rubber.
They will stretch between a quarter and half size as they break in. That seems to be normal. As for tight, you want them tight with no "Hot Spots" in the shoe. The tighter they are the less they'll move around your foot as you climb.
Winter is here, but getting more into ice as I bought a house near the Gunks, so easy day trips. Anyone else climb ice?
I grew up rock climbing in a family of prominent SE climbers. Regrettably lost the love for it my teens. Ice climbing has really reignited that flame. (Was always fascinated with it as a kid) Slowly building some gear and hoping I can find some people and classes to get into.
Don't mean to hijack this thread. I'm not a climber, but I have a question. Occasionally when I'm out and about, I'll come across some climbers. This area has lots of good places, it seems. Well, quite often when I see the climbers on the rock faces, they're connected to a rope that sometimes goes all the way up to the top. Presumably there's an anchor up there or something. But my question is this: how'd they get the rope up there? Jamie
Pfft, easy; every climber has a rope monkey (usually Capuchin) that scrambles up to plant the anchor... the real challenge is teaching it to tie the knot properly and not making it angry. Never piss off a rope-setting monkey, they have your life in their hands. I heard someone was working on a drone application for it, but that project is still up in the air...
Funny answers. Sometimes you top rope from the top, meaning there is a path to the top where there is a bolted anchor (literally bolts into the granite). You run the rope through the anchor and you can belay down. Other times you "lead" climb to the top and then belay down, collecting your quickdraws as you come down. The next climber is now anchored through the anchor at the top and is now top-roped.
At that main area I climb (Gunks in NY) there is a kiosk and one side is "How does the rope get up there?" the link GoGoGavin posted explains it well.
What is the name of the area? We can probably tell you exactly how they do it there. My first comment is a common climbing joke. "Rope gun" usually refers to a very strong lead climber in your group who will "shoot" the rope (easily and quickly climb) up a lead route so others can top rope it.
Rope gun or a reallllyy long stick clip(modified gold ball retriever) while no one is looking. Was never good enough to be a rope gun, but damn could I jimmy a stick for the first bolt outta anything,hah.
Ive learned ice is pretty rare and crowed in the Sierra. I've also learned regular rock is mostly trad out here. While i may have done some simple trad routes as a kid(mostly so I could play with cams) that's intimidating for someone who grew up on fairly short SE sport routes.
The place I see most often is Canal Zone in Golden at the mouth of Clear Creek Canyon. That one isn't so high. A few weeks back I was hiking a little further upstream in the canyon and saw a group climbing a tremendously tall sheer wall. The two climbers had ropes that went really far up the face. I don't know the name of the area, but it's right here: https://www.google.com/maps/place/3...2!3d39.742896!4d-105.4042069?hl=en&authuser=0 Jamie
It doesn't look like any of the routes in the Canal Zone are listed as top rope (that is, you can walk to the top and install a rope, then walk back down to climb), so it's a safe bet that someone led the route, rigged a top rope while they're up there, then got lowered down to allow others to climb on said top rope. Not sure where that other spot is, but if the wall is really tall it's almost a certainty that they're lead climbing. Whether they're climbing in the style of sport (using their hands and feet to climb while clipping the rope to permanently installed protection bolts), traditional (using their hands and feet to climb while placing their own specialized protection equipment in the rock, which the trailing climber removes), or aid (using the previously mentioned traditional gear to ascend the route rather than only their hands and feet) is another question entirely. You can usually tell which style someone is climbing based on how much metal junk is hanging off of their body.
