ROX Riser Install Pictorial (2 sets plus cable/line relocation)

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Apr 30, 2017.

  1. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    So, I got a couple sets of ROX Risers, a 1.5" up and back fixed set, and a 2" Anti-Vibe Adjustable set, and thought I would show the install process. Later I will review their effectiveness. (Note, most risers will install the same way.)

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    Very nicely machined, and comes with new caps as well.

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    First, bike on the centerstand, then pull 3 of four of the cap bolts, and remove one cap.


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    Lay down towels to protect your paint, and give you a soft place to put the handlebars.

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    Take note of the angle of the bars stock. You may want to use this as a guide to position them after the new risers are on.

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    Grab the bar end like this, then remove the last bot and the cap. Lay the bar down on the towels.

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    Install the new risers, and torque them down back to front at 19Nm. Then lift the bar into position and add a cap, lightly tightening the cap just enough to keep the bar from rotating. (Sorry I missed a shot of just the risers installed.)

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    Check your alignment, both in angle, and ensuring the bar is centered.

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    Install the other cap, and torque them down back to front at 19Nm.

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    Check alignment and that they are at the angle that works for you.

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    Note that there is no clearance issue with the screen.

    Cables

    In some cases, with risers of taller heights, the brake and clutch side cables need to be moved so they are not stretched too tight. In this case they were OK, but slightly tight.

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    Here you can see that the brake cable is a bit tight. We are going to move it outside the fork tubes to reduce the tension on the brake line.

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    First, cut the cable tie on the brake line and wires to the grip. Then add a new cable tie leaving them out, but the other wires in.

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    You can see here where it is tight, and needs to be moved.

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    This cap covers the fork tube bolt and nut.

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    Gently lever it off.

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    Hold the fork with a 22mm wrench, or a thin Crescent wrench, and loosen/remove the nut with a 14mm socket.

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    Remove the nut. Don't worry, the fork tube will stay in place.

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    Now for the point, push down on the top of the fork tube until the bolt comes clear, then move the cables. The forks wont move dramatically if you push straight down.

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    Sometimes the fork will move a little. No big deal, just push it over into place. It will pop back up ready for the nut.

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    Install the nut and torque to 40Nm. Then press the cap back into place.

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    Now, push the cable against the side of the opening, locate the two spots to tie it in, and cable tie the cable and brake line to the side. Position them so that turning lock to lock there is minimal stress and rubbing. It may slightly rub on the inside of the opening, but it is harmless. If you like, some electrical tape over the cable and hose where it touches will prevent scratches.

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    Now for the clutch side, if needed. Lower the fork tube and move the cable and clutch line to outside the fork, just like the brake side.

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    Cut the cable tie for the clutch line and wire harness here.


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    With the cable outside the fork tube, move it against the outside of the opening and locate the hole in the frame. Use a cable tie to secure it.

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    Now it clears in both directions.

    Now for the ROX 2" Anti-Vibe Adjustable risers.
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    Move the cables as described above. These will require it on both sides.

    Remove the handlebars described above, make sure you have towels down to protect the paint.

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    Loosly install the supplied caps.

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    Fit the risers into the caps and base leaving 1/8" sticking out.

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    Lightly snug the caps to keep them in place.

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    Lift the bars into position and install the factory caps and bolts, lightly snug them. Align the risers and snug the riser caps.

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    The tricky part. Make sure the risers are evenly aligned, and in the desired location, then snug the riser caps to hold them firmly. Then rotate the bars to the desired position and snug them to torque of 19Nm, beck first, then front. . Make sure that the riser clamps are all tight enough to hold, but loose enough to get everything aligned. It is fiddley.

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    Once aligned, see which side of the riser caps are most covered, rotate the risers just enough to tighten those as much as possible, while still leaving them loose enough to pull the risers back into position. Then torque them to 19Nm, or very snug. Despite not being able to torque both to 19Nm, the risers will not move.

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    Take a ride, adjust as necessary. Just make sure you are always aligned.

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    Torque values.

    I hope you found this useful!
    #1
  2. AZgman

    AZgman Addicted to curves

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    Awesome post Jim! I just ordered the setback risers from Revzilla. I have the older 1 1/2" fixed (no-setback) risers from Rox now, but they are not quite what I need. The setback should do the trick.
    #2
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  3. fozrunner

    fozrunner Been here awhile

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    Interesting Jim. I probably won't change my adjustable Rox risers, but these new anti-vibration ones look like the mount bolts are offset for easier adjustment.

    What's the deal with the anti-vibration feature? I don't notice my hand getting numb after a ride, but I may just be distracted by my aching knees!
    #3
  4. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    The anti-vibe feature is for those sensitive to high pitched vibrations. I don't typically feel them myself. On my ride today I didn't notice any difference, but it was only 25 miles. I need to adjust the angle of them too, so that might make a difference.
    #4
  5. barnyard

    barnyard Verbal tactician Super Moderator

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    I installed risers, but did not do any rerouting. I will take a closer look and if I have to, looks like it is not that difficult to get done. Thanks for posting.
    #5
  6. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Low risers often do not need rerouting. Taller ones usually do.
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  7. barnyard

    barnyard Verbal tactician Super Moderator

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    I put 2 inch risers on. 1 of the lines was iffy, at best.
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  8. TwoTiredRiders

    TwoTiredRiders Been here awhile

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    I installed the 2" Rox risers so I could move the bars farther forward. It works and is a great upgrade. Especially on long trips where you want to lean just a touch forward instead of perfectly upright, and for enduro riding where you are standing for long periods of time. I routed the cables outside the fork tubes. I tried the zip tie in the side deal to secure the cables but it seemed like it made the cables tight again so I clipped the zip ties and nothing is securing them. There doesn't seem to be any pinching or binding now but is this a bad thing to not have them secured?
    #8
  9. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    If they are not binding or hitting anything, it is not necessarily a bad thing. Positioning of the risers, especially in your case moving them forward, can effect whether or not you need to cable tie them.
    #9
  10. 1200gsceej

    1200gsceej wanabee overachiever

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    Any update on the anti-vibration feature? Have you had a chance to notice any difference?
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  11. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Honestly? I can feel a difference, but it isn't much. I never really had a big issue with the vibes anyhow. That said, I just realized that I haven't had any tingling at the end of a ride since I put them on. Never big, but none now. It could be the anti-vibe, or just the better position of the bars. :dunno
    #11
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  12. webjester

    webjester Adventurer

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    Great post but some words of caution...

    I installed the 2" risers on my 16GSA a several weeks ago. I followed the same instructions and re-routed cables on both sides to the outside of the fork. I zip tied the throttle/brake cables to the frame as depicted. It seemed somewhat tight but OK. After a few hundred miles I got throttle grip sensor errors and the bike went into limp-home mode about every 2 miles (switching off ignition helped to restart). Not sure what to do (600 miles from home), I cut the zip tie and pulled the connector from the throttle grip to see whether anything was loose or bent. To my surprise, the (fragile) connector doesn't really have a locking mechanism and came right off when pulling hard enough (no, it wasn't loose). I plugged it in and removed it a couple of times. After that, I had no issues for several 100 miles.

    Ultimately, I have no idea what fixed it or whether it is permanently fixed (verdict is still out). But I found that the wires inside the rubber sleeve of the throttle cable are EXTREMELY thin and it doesn't take much to pull the connector or break the wires.

    So, be careful that there is no tension on the throttle cable through the entire range of steering. Just sayin'.
    #12
  13. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Good info. I will have a look at mine

    I did have a set of risers on previously, with the cables moves, and had no issues, but it may depend on how you have your risers set.

    Previous risers.

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    notice the clutch side was not moved, so it appears that these didn't strain the cables.
    #13
  14. going south

    going south hero & Zero...

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    As always thanks Jim...
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  15. 1200gsceej

    1200gsceej wanabee overachiever

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    BMW Handlebar Clamps - Question: Mine are so 'tight' that they stick to the bar.
    OK, I had Rox Risers on my prior 1200GS. I'd read everything on the site about installing them on my 2017 GSW. Here is what I encountered.
    After taking out the torx bolts I tried to lift off the clamps but I could not pull them straight off; they were 'stuck' to the bar. I had to push laterally to roll the clamp to one side, then back again, the rocking motion causing the ends to "walk up" the side of the bar until they finally became loose enough to take off. I noted this, but did not give it much thought and proceeded with the installation. After the risers were installed and snugged-a-bit, I set the bars on the risers and the clamps on the bars. Tightening the bolts forces the clamp onto the bar in such a fashion that the bars will not adjust/rotate even with the bolts finger tight. To adjust the angle of just the bars, you basically have to remove the bolts entirely, pry lose the clamps, re-position the bar, then reinstall the clamps. I was running out of time, so took the Rox off and reverted to stock until I have more time to consider what I want to do.
    I can live with this, but it is unexpected and not my experience with my prior Rox/bar setup. It is as if the two opposite ends of the open side of the clamp are just a hair narrower than the bar diameter. Anyone else experienced this?
    I'm going to work on the edges of the clamps with something - probably start with some fine sandpaper - and see if there might be an edge along the inside of the clamp that I can bevel down or smooth off. Barring that (no pun intended), I'll get a friend to help me - I'll hold the bars where I want them and have him bolt down the clamps. But there seems to be no easy rotating of the bar by just loosening the top clamp bolts, sigh...
    -ceej
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  16. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Mine were similar, just need to push harder!
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  17. 1200gsceej

    1200gsceej wanabee overachiever

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    Do you mean push (or pull) harder on the (ends of the) bars to break them loose from the clamp?
    Assuming of course that the risers are torqued down hard enough for them not to move.
    OK, I can go that route. If the problem (clamps fit particularly tight on the bars) is not uncommon, then I'll just mush on ahead.
    Thanks.
    #17
  18. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Line up the ROX approximately where you think you want them and lightly snug them down. Attach the handlebars and snug them firmly. Then you can loosen the ROX mount bolts to finger tight and use the bars to push the ROX to the desired final position. Yeah, you will have to push pretty hard.
    #18
  19. Roundel

    Roundel Been here awhile

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    Will this damage bars, if you push /pull or rotate them with ROX bolts lose for adjustment? Also would you please provide link for antivibration ROX. I am thinking between 1.5 and 2 inches antivibe. Any suggestions on number of inches or its individual?
    #19
  20. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    It will leave a mark on the bars, but so do the stock clamps.

    These are the ones I have: https://roxspeedfx.com/collections/...be-bar-riser-for-1-1-4-handlebar-r1200gs-more
    #20
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