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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Anthiron, Sep 2, 2017.
still missing Jerry...
Oh for sure, I know I could personally use more skill always. But I was talking about hugeee boulders taller than the bikes ground clearance, wish I had taken a pic. There was no riding it at speed possible really, only crawl and pick.
I think saying it faded is not necessarily correct now that I'm thinking about it, it worked fine the whole time, but on the way home I did find that quickly cracking the throttle to 100 percent in any gear above 2nd would cause the clutch to slip, so my thought was the bike may have gotten too hot in that section. Or maybe the cable came out of adjustment but I didn't have any tools to loosen up the cable with me unfortunately. Seemed to be completely disengaging though
Didn't think about it that way at all, good point! It was done to keep the engine cooler at stops I was told, and I honestly never thought twice about it until now. Looks like I need to plug it up to the computer and change that back.
So i was right in the first place about it being a 4.7K.
That's what I reported back in February when I measured the resistance of the plug in my kit from Hitchcocks. I never measured the solenoid itself, just the plug supplied in the kit. Not sure why they used that particular resistance, but I guess it works...
Damn. Where were you a few months ago?
I made my own brackets to mount lights using the bolt holes on the front racks. I like creating and making little tidbits for my bikes like this. At least for one-off things that isn't available. And mine work well. But, by the time I pulled out and set up the band saw and belt sander, measured everything, made a cardboard template that fit correctly, drilled the holes, cut everything out twice, radiused all the corners, etc, it took me a minute. So, in most cases if there's a reasonably priced alternative that does the same thing, I'd rather go that route.
Did you ever learn what bar bend you have? If the dealer hasn't been of any help, the bars should be marked in the middle of the clamp area with the bend name that ProTaper uses. I currently have ProTaper bars on two other bikes, one a Raptor bend, and the other CR HI. Both are clearly marked in between the two clamps on the triple clamp. Would be nice to know the specific version of Cycra handguards as well. But, if you could post some good photos of them we can probably figure out which ones they used.
I'm planning a trip in a couple of weeks and would really like to upgrade the bars beforehand if possible. And your setup is the first I've seen that has been a proven combination of ProTaper bars and quality handguards that does not interfere with the windscreen or instrument cluster...
Thanks for any help you can offer on solving this vexing issues...
Admittedly I completely glanced passed the 2k idle bit. That is almost certainly a contributing factor as to why your clutch is heating up more than say, mine is.
Also differences in lubricant may be a factor. I know Jesse (on here known as @GeoMoto ) used to run Synthetic in his Himalayans (he's had 5 now) but found that he was experiencing some clutch slippage and such as it would heat up when riding technical terrain. We discussed this a few times and he particularly noted that going back to the FSM recommended Semi-Synthetic lubricant resolved the issue for him. I've run Motul 5100 MA2 spec since my 3rd day of ownership.
Haha, I appreciate it. In fairness - like you, I was waiting for someone else to do it until I got sick of waiting.
I've got a stack of boxes I need to deliver to the post office this morning, a couple of them going overseas (one to New Zealand and one to Israel.) After painting a few sets black at the request of a few purchasers, I'm now vexed on whether I prefer the bare 6061 or the gloss black better. First world problems I reckon.
In between pretending I'm an Amazon distribution center, I found some time to go explore some local trails I've never been on. Some of you may hate me for this, but all of these shots are from a trail that's all of 4-5 minutes from my doorstep.
And a bit further up you can see down into the American River Canyon. Down at the bottom you can see the Iowa Hill Bridge spanning the river.
Back in the gold rush days the area in the foreground was known as Robber's Ravine. You probably don't need an explanation as to why it was called that. The cliffs and limited access made it a perfect hideout for anyone and everyone wanting to stay under the radar for their alleged wrongdoings.
Alright - time to head to the post office!
If it’s any comfort, you inspired a set of very similar mounts near the City of
Ultimately, I don't think the resistance matters, just as long as it's not open circuit. Though 4.7K does seem random, and I can't think of any electronics-related reason to chose that value. Maybe they got a load of them for cheap
It would be less current draw!
Looks bigfoot country to me
I'm not clear on how or why running at such a high idle rpm is beneficial to engine cooling. While I haven't seen either the stock, or DynoJet's fueling maps, I can see that if it's lean at idle, then adding fuel in that rpm range could help with cooling. And actually I'm not even clear on how a PC can control idle speed as that is not an electronically controlled function, AFAIK. At least not on the Himalayan's EFI system. Idle speed is typically set with the air bleed screw on the top of the TB.
I can see that if DynoJet added fuel at idle to cure an excessively lean condition, then that could cause a higher idle. But I'd be surprised if that's actually intended rather than just a side effect that should be compensated for by a manual idle adjustment... Using your computer to alter the fuel maps may lower the idle speed, but if the fueling is correct then that's not the way I'd go about it. Changing the fueling may cause a change in idle speed, but the two can, and likely should, be controlled separately. I'd be more inclined to leave the fuel map as DJ intended, and just adjust for a proper idle speed.
When I added my Booster Plug, the idle did increase, although not to 2000rpm. I think maybe it went up to 1400-1500, I forget for sure now... Nonetheless, I adjusted it back down into the correct range by making a small adjustment to the air bleed screw.
Of course, again, I haven't looked into DynoJet's PC setup for the Himalayan, so if someone knows more on this subject I'd be interested to learn what I don't know....
I used a set up from eastern beaver. Relay and fuse with the Garmin mount.
My idle was set to the stock 1250 when I got the bike. I fiddled with the air screw but it wanted to sit at 1350. My PowerTronic did not alter it. However, since the air injectionectomy the idle is sitting at a steady 1000 when cold, warming to 1100 when warmed up. No stalling and no choke require to start up.
The only reason I can see for a higher idle is to keep the oil pressure up. It's not water cooled so no water pump to spin at idle. The PT has enriched my idle setting currently by 4%
However you go about it, I would recommend using a relay controlled circuit in order to prevent inadvertently running down your battery.
Many recommend Eastern Beaver, and I agree that their setups do look nice, and well designed. I had initially intended to go that route, but there was some sort of delay, or other issue when I tried to place my order. I forget now exactly what... But, in the end I decided that, hell, I only want to add two new circuits; one for my Juiced Squeeze, and one for my aux lights. So, I decided that for such a simple addition there really was no point in going to the expense. I ended up adding two inexpensive relays with two separate power supplies, with inline fuse holders, direct from the battery. There's very little free space under the seat so I placed the relays in the space formed by the two frame rails up near the steering head, under the tank. The two separate fuse holders nestle easily on top of the battery and are very close to the power supply as they should be. This works well for me, is readily accessible at any parts store, Amazon, etc, and was inexpensive.
Not meaning to knock the other products on the market. Just offering up another way of going about the same thing...
My bike was idling around 1200-1250 when new. Then after a few hundred break in miles I discovered that the idle had gone up to around 1400 normally and at times as high as 1800. I thought something was wrong... I came home, and spent a bit of time going over things, checking for air leaks, etc, and could find nothing amiss... I adjusted it back down with the air bleed screw on the TB and all was fine thereafter...
My "theory" if you can call it that, was that perhaps my bike had a higher idle setting on the air bleed than some others. And that perhaps that's why mine never seemed to exhibit the cold stall condition reported by so many others on new low mileage bikes... That maybe mine was getting just that much more such that it idled fine as new. And then, as the engine began to loosen up, the idle increased as a result of having a slightly too high setting from the factory... IDK, probably a wonky idea but... Mine never had the stalling thing, and the idle went up with no changes other than a few hundred miles of progressive break in...
Then, when I added the Booster Plug, it went up a bit again. Adjusted again, and it's been stable since...
I guess the point of my earlier post was to suggest to justinope that perhaps he could consider adjusting the idle down using the air bleed rather than tweaking his fuel maps. If his maps are otherwise good, then hopefully he can get his idle speed more in a normal range without adversely affecting the benefits provided by the PC...
Like I said, my fuel maps seem to have no effect on idle speed. I did find that my idle speed was floating up to 1500 occasionally prior to the removal of air injection. None since.
I think he specifically stated that the fueling was increased to make it run richer at higher engine temps when idle which in turn has increased the idle RPM to right around 2k. I dont remember him specifically saying 2k was the mark. However, I do believe that would also make it so it varied around 2k right and not sit right at 2k? So maybe it is just a flat "richen the mixture until it reaches 2k when temp higher than X" scenario
I'll try and roll my laptop out there later tonight after work and see what I can find plugged in.
Asking about my wife's 2018:
The choke lever seems to be "binary". It rests sort of in the middle of the movement, with no effect... you can push it to "none" and it will sort of stay there and wander back to middle, but to get any choke at all, you have to hold it down hard, else it goes back to mid-position with no effect. Just wondering if there's something wrong in the mechanism, or if they're all shit like that.