Royal Enfield Himalayan Owners Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Anthiron, Sep 2, 2017.

  1. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    If just changing the end can there is no worry regarding the Lambda as that is fitted to the downpipe.
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  2. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    JCW64, you have a PM
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  3. ScottFree

    ScottFree Long timer

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    This afternoon's post-work time-waster was some experimentation with my rattly exhaust. Experiment One: make sure everything was tight. It was. Experiment Two: remove the heat shields, because even if they're secure they could resonate. Nope, no change. Experiment Three: pull the can. I looked inside; its cat is in fine condition, of course. Experiment Four: start the motor and see if it blows fragments of the head pipe cat out. Nothing. Not as noisy as I thought it might be. The rattle (upon backing off the throttle) was louder than the exhaust. Experiment Five: tap on the head pipe (especially around the cat) with a soft hammer. Plenty of rattling. Experiment Six: see if I could pull out any chunks with an electrician's fish tape. Nope.

    Sigh. Put the thing back together, knowing more about what the noise isn't, but still not able to confirm what it is.

    Maybe I should find somebody who replaced his stock pipe with a Delkevic and offer to take his scrap metal off his hands. If nothing else, trying a different head pipe would tell me if the rattle is somewhere inside my head pipe.

    More realistically, the next experiment will be to pull the head pipe and shake it to see if any bits come out the ends. I'm not expecting that. If the cat is indeed catalyst plated metal honeycomb (which is what the muffler's cat looks like), then it's probably not falling apart, just at most detached and wallowing around till it figures out how to get stuck and block exhaust flow.
  4. buckthedog

    buckthedog Eastbound and down

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    Do you have any romex wire or something flexible enough to get down in there, but strong enough to poke and see if you can hear a rattle? You seem to have narrowed it down to the only thing it can be. Muffler out of the equation, heat shields, nope, mounting bolts tight (double checked at the head?) there's nothing else left other than it becoming detached I would think. You can start it, put a wooden dowel or large screwdriver on it to act as a "mechanics stethoscope" put your ear to it and listen. You could even rap on it with a rubber mallet or softer with a deadblow hammer to instigate the rattle.
  5. ScottFree

    ScottFree Long timer

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    I tried an electrician's fish tape, which is a bit sturdier than romex. It definitely got to the cat and met resistance, but it didn't bring anything out. Not having a dead blow hammer handy, I rapped it with a wood-handled wire brush. Sounded about the same, like something was rattling inside the bulge.

    I am pretty sure my RE dealer (oddly enough, not the one who sold me the bike, but the guy I've been dealing with for over 20 years and who just picked up an Enfield franchise a few months after I bought my Himma) will want to make things right, and will have no trouble handling this under the emissions warranty (since the two-year vehicle warranty has run out). My thought is to pull the head pipe on Monday (after I get back from my weekend trip to Wisconsin). I expect that when I shake it I will hear stuff rattling around inside. Sometime during the week I'll take it up to my dealer, and with any luck he'll agree to procure the replacement part and let me keep riding till it comes in. As I said, the guy's been pretty good to me for over 20 years.
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  6. bomber60015

    bomber60015 Hold fast Supporter

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    I’m headed out to the driftless my own bad self in about 6 hours ... perhaps we’ll cross paths.
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  7. Kiwithl

    Kiwithl Been here awhile

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    Thanks Randy re tank removal. Went smoothly enough once I figured to squeeze the electrical connection on the fuel pump to remove it. Of course, I started the job because I was in the shed for something else and thought "while I'm here..." Got the fuel QD off easily but didn't have the rag for the fuel in the hose! D'oh!
    Thanks Dr T re the extra QD in the fuel line. Has anyone fitted an in line fuel filter between the pump and injector? Or is that too late to catch the dirt? Catch it before the pump = fuel sock or whatever they're called?

    My cracked hose is the overflow. It had cracked so much under the tank that it wasn't attached anymore. Glad I bothered rather than filling up and needing but not having the overflow hose. The evap hoses seem in good nick though.
    Main worry about tank removal is finding a safe and secure place to sit it while it's off the bike. That plastic spiggot is very vulnerable, easy to break if not careful.

    Tank off = tappet time. Both tight. Inlet very tight. Managed to adjust to 0.1mm.
    As I was about to start on the exhaust I was told to stop. Why? Go and buy beer. Um, yes, ok. It'll be dark soon anyway... Now it is dark. And I'm drinking beer...
    I think I'll buy one of those tappet adjust tools. I can do it without one but I hope it'll be much easier with one? The tappet is 4mm square or 3? 10mm locknut. I could only get open end spanner on it so not ideal.

    My head holes are probably a drain hole for the spark plug recess and maybe something to do with the casting of the head? I noticed what I guess are drain holes adjacent to both rocker covers...

    Should there be anything in this shiny hole on the rh engine case? IMG_20210430_150525.jpg

    The little round 'hole' between the oil filler cap and the clutch adjuster mounting bolt... The case is black but that's not...?
  8. Dool

    Dool Been here awhile Supporter

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    Pretty sure that is a rivet to cap a drilling in the case, its probably the oil feed drilling from the oil pump because they cant drill around corners they have done 2 straight passways and that one had to be drilled from the top, and then capped ie Normal.
    The hole near the spark plug is as you expected, a drain hole.
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  9. ToasTje

    ToasTje Been here awhile

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    So the tank bags, panniers and duffle have arrived today. The smaller box are the tank bags.
    JPEG_20210430_143140_265925520666718578.jpg

    These come with a hard, removable inner liner to keep them a fixed opening and 4 straps to attach them to the bike. . They are bigger then expected
    JPEG_20210430_143822_1803844532250298592.jpg
    Getting the liner into the slots inside of the bag was a bit of a PITA but I hope it will get better as the inner adjusts to the form.
    JPEG_20210430_144412_8335315257484135861.jpg
    One part of the buckles is metal and the other is plastic (the part you gotta squeeze so that makes sense in a way). The buckles on the 4 mounting straps are all metal.
    JPEG_20210430_145151_8053843600386050139.jpg
    All in all it feels like great quality.



    The panniers and duffle on the other hand feel cheaper which they obviously are. Tank bags was about 40€ for one and the panniers + duffle were about 115€.
    JPEG_20210430_150554_2056487944337465093.jpg
    The tank bags have a fabric on the outside. Panniers are just pvc. Also all buckles are plastic. Expect for the buckles on one bag where you attach the straps from the other bag that you mount over the passenger seat. JPEG_20210430_150640_6995500595012398905.jpg
    The duffle does have a 'air release system', just a screw valve so you can roll the top down as firmly as you like too. And also a possible place for water to get into, though I suspect that you have to emerge it for that to happen.
    JPEG_20210430_150702_5348808071096153850.jpg
    JPEG_20210430_150734_7353349567496874657.jpg
    Both do feel a lot smaller than advertised, I assume that the volumes listed are the maximum with an open top, not as you would have them closed with the triple fold.
    The panniers do have mounting loops on the outside and the rubber band so you can easily put some bottle, dirty socks,.. in there.
    Also no hard inner liner to keep them a fixed width.

    So conclusion: overall pleased with the tank bags, not so with the panniers and duffle, mostly due to the size issue. Anyway, the proof will be in the pudding, as they say. And for that I will have to have my bike :(

    I'm thinking of how I could measure the volume, but short of filling them up with water, I can't think of anything yet.

    PS don't look at the dirt on the floor. I'm in the middle of a renovation and don't feel like cleaning up every day just to get dirty again the next day ;)
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  10. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    Except from running new wires to the front of the bike. Are there any wires that remain live with the ignition turned off?.
  11. bomber60015

    bomber60015 Hold fast Supporter

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    On US bikes, I don’t think so.

    the parking light may be on in Euro bikes if the switch is in the proper position ... but I’m off, I think everything (stock) is unpowered with the switch off.
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  12. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    Parking cant be left on. Defeats the object of a parking light.
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  13. byteofthecherry

    byteofthecherry Been here awhile

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    I asked about the inline filter on another site way back…general feeling was they are not meant to be pressurized so as the pump 'pumps' not suitable...tank sock was the general opinion, they are expensive, but apparently they don't pass water…but as I'm not doing a 'itchy boots' & the petrol in the UK is pretty good so no real need.

    Edit: Oooops...did somone not mention the filler design was such that it collected water therefore the need to keep an eye on the overflow hose as that serves as a drain for both fuel and rainwater otherwise H2O will collect in the tank(it rains a lot where I am)
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  14. CaptainTrips

    CaptainTrips Long timer

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    FWIW, I pulled my Hima's OEM header pipe out of the Delkevic box that it is stored in and gave it a thorough shaking and could not get it to rattle. Having said that, one of the reasons why I switched to the Delkevic system was that I had too had a persistent rattle. Go figure.
  15. ScottFree

    ScottFree Long timer

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    I noticed (from pix on their site) that the Delkevic pipe has a welded-on tab, which I assume bolts to the frame somewhere. Makes me wonder if the (unsupported) stock pipe picks up a resonance that makes the rattle. Mine seems focused at right around 2800 rpm. Makes me want to pick up a P-clamp and do some experiments.
  16. CaptainTrips

    CaptainTrips Long timer

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    Yeah I wasn't entirely happy with that additional mounting tab on the Delkevic. It pulls the outlet on the header in a bit too tightly resulting in the can being pushed out a bit at the exhaust outlet. I did find the OEM heat guard rattling early after I bought the bike.
  17. byteofthecherry

    byteofthecherry Been here awhile

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    I'll be fitting mine next 2/3 days...did you use the extra tab..is it worth elongating the bolthole for more 'wiggle' room
  18. CaptainTrips

    CaptainTrips Long timer

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    I left it as is for now. I did fabricate a bracket following Randy's pics to add one OEM heat guard to keep my heel off the pipe. Removing the tab would likely bring the pipe closer to your heel, so you might need to do the same.

    BTW I bought the largest can that Delkevic sells so the outward position of the can end is more apparent.
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  19. Grasshopper's Ride

    Grasshopper's Ride Adventurer

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    I was also not very happy with that mounting.

    I am also keeping an eye on the foot peg and how close it is. So far so good, but I would be lucky to get a piece of paper through the gap....

    IMG_0574.jpeg
  20. byteofthecherry

    byteofthecherry Been here awhile

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    Ahh...!!...I got the ultra shorty...however I'll probably have to get a more legal version...just in case :-) and with grasshoppers picture that corner may need a chamfer with a small grinder.
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