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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Anthiron, Sep 2, 2017.
Thanks, I'll have a look...
Pretty sure Gaia does that
Any chance the tappet adjuster square head is 3.5 mm? All the tools with 10mm hex seem to have 3.5mm square.
Or there's this with 3 square sizes but I doubt the 50mm height of the T will be short enough for the inlet side
(Yes, my cart is pretty full but the only way I've figured out to save my searches of stuff I'm interested in is to add to cart...)
And when searching for headlight protector I found this which may work for changing colour of conspicuousity lights. (Did I just invent a new word?) Driving lights/spot lights.
It's not the 3/16 inch self adhesive transparant stuff I was looking for like I bought for my brother's Monster 20? years ago. (Is that stuff still available? Better look for Ducati stuff but they still use(d) 7" headlights I think.) Might explain why many Asian vehicles have wierd/wrong coloured lights...
Thanks, I will look. Never heard of Locus or Gaia.
Sounds like a good idea. Will try that out. Fuel by default is 88 RON and 91 RON.
Then we have 95 RON and the best is 99 RON.
I would definitely want the bike to be able to run with 91-95 RON, since during Roadtrips, sometime it is hard to get higher than 88 RON fuel. I can carry some of the available octane boosters, but 88 to 98+ is a long journey.
here's one of many 10/3mm https://www.ebay.com/itm/132441449372?hash=item1ed620239c:g:RkMAAOSwVlda3oCR
i've bought that one from a US seller and it fits. I didn't check if it's really 3mm or 3.5mm but 3.5 will work too. It's not like you put a lot of torque on the adjuster screw. While the tool fits and can be used it's not much help and i preferred to do the adjustment without it.
For the valve adjust, I have a small 3-4" long combo wrench (box end and open end) its really small and thin. It fit perfectly fine. It's not this one, this is one from Amazon. This whole set was $25. I used needle nose vise grips to hold the adjuster, and turn it slightly, but I'll likely use a deck screw next time. If memory serves, I used a long 10mm combo wrench for the other side of the valves. Can't remember which I used what on, it's intuitive.
I was thinking not much torque on the adjuster but not so eloquentlyas you. On my Triumph I used a 3 or 4 inch crecsent spanner. Probably I should buy one for REH tappets. Better investment than a special tool as I could use it for other small nuts. I was thinking of knipex too, after someone mentioned them. A 7" knipex might be a bit big for a 3mm tappet square head though, or too big to get to the tappet? Not to mention $.
After reading Buckthedogs post I thought the bleedin' obvious. See if I can buy a 3mm open end/ring spanner. And/or crescent, and/or knipex...
As I mentioned before square drive screws I haven't seen locally otherwise I'd buy one.
Yes the gushing air from opening the fuel cap is normal as is a farting noise after turning off the bike. All to do with the Evap system.
6mm seems smallest spanner easily available. Found 4" crescent type then found this; 1x2.5" +1x4" crescent type spanner
2 spanners, cost more than some tappet tools, cost less than some. More versatile and I already have a 10mm for the lock nut. Could even grind down the ring end to fit if I felt keen enough!
(Excuse to buy Dremel type tool).
I got that too. When I removed the tank to find the overflow hose perrished off the spiggot? I then removed the vent hose to get a whoosh of air (and petrol vapour). I then thought I've read about this sort of she it on advrider. I should've opened the filler cap to vent it before removing the tank!? It's all very wierd, modern, high tech stuff coming from gravity fed, carburetted motorbikes... Having said that, my brief sojourn with an R1200GS 15 years ago never got a fart or a whoosh that I noticed or remember.(Got brown undies once or twice though!)
My Bonneville (unit construction, pre vent through primary chaincase of 1970 onwards) crankcase vent used to (and still does if I'm lucky enough to be able to visit it) groan and fart and leave a little deposit resembling bird shit behind the back tyre when it was resting after a bit of exercise. It's alive I tell you! Alive...
The tappet adjuster that I bought looks like the first one that you showed. It is 3mm square which is the same as a #2 Robertson screw driver. I rapidly broke mine by taking a hammer to the handle to take the bend out of it for clearance. I had just got it right when the socket popped off the handle. I separated the 3mm part and now use it with a 10mm wrench.
It's definetly 3mm, I have this set - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193842679891 and it works perfectly.
Definitely 3mm, thanks. That must be a quality tool. I was looking more in the £1-2 range! You get what you pay for I guess.
I think I'll go for the little crescent type spanner I showed before.
I think once set correctly on a well past running in engine there won't or shouldn't be much adjusting to do, more like loosen to get the feeler guage in, or count turns per thread if you go that way, tighten to spec again and lock nut it. Or if it sounds "normal" should be good.
I should've tried/cross checked the turns per thread method while I was in there. Oh well, alwwys next time...
@Kiwithl Pm me your address and I'll see if I have any spare screws that'll fit. I'll mail them to you, and you can make a round knob or screw it into a small piece of wood about the width of a doctor's tongue depressor, or popsicle stick. If I think of it tomorrow at work, I'll get some tongue depressors, but I'd glue two together for strength. I'll throw those in and you can experiment and be the Thai version of McGyver.
I was thinking of screwing it (the part on the outside of the bottle) into a plastic soda bottle cap and filling it with silicone or something. I already did my valves but I'll figure something out next time.
It'll be the kind of thing where I'll spend $2 to save $1, but hey, I'll have made it myself.
For point to point OsmAnd and Magic Earth are pretty dang good.
mine screwed into a little 1 inch long dowel. Cheap 'n cheerful
wow so you're going for it. Will be interesting to hear your views on a comparison between the carbed and the Big Bore new.
I would say those might be a bit big to use as space is limited.
Okay so after checking all of the fuses all of the terminal connectors ensuring of good and clean contacts free of dust, battery connections are good I tried starting it again. After turning on ignition and the instruments finish cycling press the starter button and you hear a distinct click from the starter relay and nothing happens after that with the exception of the instruments going blank. Then after turning the ignition key to the OFF position the instruments come back on again then cycles through shutting down. Just out of curiosity what does DAKIK means.