Royal Enfield Himalayan Owners Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Anthiron, Sep 2, 2017.

  1. byteofthecherry

    byteofthecherry Been here awhile

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    What are the 'current' opinions powertronic v powercommander...??(starting to feel the feel 'the perhaps'...??)...:(
    Doctor T likes this.
  2. MadMotoMods

    MadMotoMods Adventurer Supporter

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    Sadly, for me, the cost comes down to 1350 GBP if I import it from UK to India. (including Import duty). That's 60% of the bike cost here in India.
    As dool said, gives me only 1 option. (unless I find someone heading down to India from UK) :hmmmmm
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  3. MadMotoMods

    MadMotoMods Adventurer Supporter

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    I would go with Powertronic, simply because I am in India and its easier for me to get help for it.

    @Dool an interesting thing that I came across via a friend. Apparently the GT535 Map on PowerTronic Downloads and the Himalayan Map are the same.
    little ackman, Eatmore Mudd and Dool like this.
  4. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    Thats what i fitted when i changed tyres. Funnily the cheapest place to get them was from a trail/enduro shop in France
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  5. sqeeezy

    sqeeezy Been here awhile

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    just a quick google got me this:
    https://www.motoblouz.es/camara-de-...cJdvqhDRp9XoyUZK9-mR_Y91lkZIOoVUaAhIIEALw_wcB
    I got 2 x Michelin heavy duty but still got a thorn puncture in Morocco, so just goes to show. Back on the cheapo Indian OEM one until the next puncture, that's (touch wood) only one in 26,000 km.
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  6. MadMotoMods

    MadMotoMods Adventurer Supporter

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    Thank you for sharing that. Just saw all his mod videos ... I am impressed.
    Made me google a bit more ... like a possible quick action throttle. I had completely forgotten about their existence. I had one on my KTM duke 200 and even on my Ninja 250.
    Also, it was my favorite little mod on the first dual purpose motorcycle I owned. It was a re-badged Honda NXR 150 Bros. (called Hero Impulse in India)

    Here's some pics of that little 150cc go-anywhere motorcycle.
    IMG_20160912_164154663_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20160909_121140719_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20160909_152647409_HDR.jpg
    dcoop, Eatmore Mudd, Rich B and 2 others like this.
  7. sqeeezy

    sqeeezy Been here awhile

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    Nice pics: where is that?
  8. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    It all depends on what state of tune your bike is. For me with AIS delete. Cats removed in the standard pipe and end Can i find JCW64 "Thingmajig" fixes the fueling/air mix perfectly for me. If i was going to mod even more i think a Power Commander would be more suitable to play with the Maps. To my knowledge and past experience, unless You are going to larger cams, big bore kit, etc a PC is a bit overkill.

    I did send JCW my feedback a few days back. Below is my report on my findings. Remember each bike has slight differences.
    Test 1.
    3.3k Thermistor first. With this, i found that with my bike in totally standard form it gave better fueling on install acceleration, and the same was felt with 5th gears roll on's from 30 to 50 mph. No overall change to fuel consumption was found. This gave a normal to the Spark plug. Best for a completely standard engine.

    Test 2.
    4.7k Thermistor. I felt this worked better with AIS removed. Standard air filter fitted and end can Cats.NGK Iridium plug. This again better acceleration, 5th gear roll on's 30 to 50 mph seems to pick up quicker than standard. Again better fueling on take off. Did find fuel consumption rose up slightly but that could have been down to me blatting around country lanes. This 4.7k made the bike more enjoyable to ride with. As with the 3.3K, this also gave a normal running color.
    Both the 3.3k and 4.7K compared to a Spark plug color chart shows that the right amount of fuel/air was burning in the engine.
    Best for a slightly modified engine.

    Test 3.
    10k Thermistor. I found this worked better with a short free flow end can(no DB killer fitted) and with the downpipe Cat removed. BMC air filter fitted. Found this used more fuel which was expected due to the setup. Found that the bike backfired on de-acceleration a lot. To be honest i found the bike rode no better or worse than with the 4.7K Thermistor fitted. I would stick with this 10K if i stuck with this setup. Note I did find a strong smell of petrol coming from the exhaust on tic over. With this set up i personally think a Power Commander would be better and perhaps a tweak of the Map in our climate. Hotter countries or at a higher altitude may find this a better option. This also gave a dark charcoal/black color to the Spark plug. Running Rich.
    It may be better for hotter countries or at higher altitudes.

    Each test was run over 3 full tanks of E10 petrol. (around 750 miles per test). This included country lanes, dual carriageways, and motorways. I found the engine ran smoother and cooler across the board. In tests 1 and 2 felt it more responsive compared to standard, may i say a little bit more powerful. Test 3 for me seemed to give the same overall results as test 2 but with the smell of unburnt fuel and back popping. I have researched if more power is gained by just fitting a Booster plug gadget and removing the AIS system and I found one very short Dyno test and yes there is a power gain. A whooping 1BHP at the rear wheel but this isn't the reason to fit a BP-type gadget.
    As for me am sticking with the 4.7K Thermister for my setup. I believe this is how the bike should have run straight from the showroom but without any Euro restrictions.
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  9. hound dogger

    hound dogger ain't growin' up

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    Couple of questions . I've got a 2021 Himalayan which I plan to do all maintenance on . Are the oil filters for 2020 the same for the 2021, and can the fork caps come off while still in the triple tree ? I'm getting very little rebound and I might put a 1" or so spacer in the fork which might help. Also , how much would too much or too little oil in the forks affect rebound ? Thank you ,
    Patrick in Grants Pass,OR.
  10. byteofthecherry

    byteofthecherry Been here awhile

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    Fantastic..!!..I'll save for ref.

    I'm still 1wk. away(heated grips/spots...drop tubes for the YSS springs/drop steering stem for lube/tidy headlamp wiring+ a few other bits...and then we'll see...??
    Doctor T likes this.
  11. Eatmore Mudd

    Eatmore Mudd Mischief on wheels.

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    I know you know all this. It's to add to the knowledge for folks unaware.

    Cast and forged each have advantages and disadvantages in this case.

    Forgings have greater strength for the same volume of material as castings.

    A forged big bore piston can be made lighter than a cast one and closer in weight to, or the same as, the original piston. That's important to engine balance factor and vibration.

    Cast piston don't expand as much as a forged ones so they're fitted with closer piston to cylinder wall cold clearance (forged are fitted with greater piston to cylinder wall cold clearance) so they're quieter during warm up which by the way is shorter.
  12. jcw64

    jcw64 Been here awhile

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    --
    My Hima is bog standard with the exception of an iridium plug and I'm using the 3.3k thermistor. When I first ran with it, the idle increased by about 300-400 rpm so I adjusted the throttle body screw. The only issue I've found is below 10 Celsius when I use full bi-starter, the idle is erratic, swinging from 1600rpm to 1800rpm every half a second or so. Despite this, it still runs better. It only takes a few seconds before letting go of the lever and the idle settles nicely at 1100 rpm.
    Eatmore Mudd and Dool like this.
  13. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    This what i meant about slight differences. My tic over rose to 1400rpm but since the first run it settled back down to the usual 1150rpm and stays there now. On fitting my homemade AIS delete kit my revs rosed to 1650, this is the only time ive had to turn the revs down.
    Even in the coldest weather when first starting from stone-cold ive never felt the need for the Bi-starter. After the first 2 seconds my bike tics over at 1150rpm. To me, it's a pointless lever that never gets used. Maybe it would be needed in cold Canadian winter.
  14. MadMotoMods

    MadMotoMods Adventurer Supporter

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    This was in 2016.
    I did a Road-trip to Bhutan from India. It was around 2100 kms.

    Another travelogue for someday.
  15. Kiwiscoot

    Kiwiscoot Been here awhile

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    They are excellent tho I use them with soft bags. see my posts on them.
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/royal-enfield-himalayan-owners-thread.1253460/page-243#post-36525469
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/royal-enfield-himalayan-owners-thread.1253460/page-901#post-40586451
    Eatmore Mudd and folkers like this.
  16. CaptainTrips

    CaptainTrips Long timer

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    Turned down a dead-end road today and discovered the Ruskin community hall at the end of it. Looks like they will be celebrating their centennial next year. This building is about all there is for infrastructure in Ruskin, aside from a general store/post office.

    Attached Files:

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  17. Eatmore Mudd

    Eatmore Mudd Mischief on wheels.

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    More than likely the filter hasn't changed. Enfields not in the habit of changing stuff that works unless they have to. The switch gear on our handlebars, they been using them since 2000.

    Fork caps, I highly highly doubt they'll loosen without first backing off the fork pinch bolts in the upper triple clamp.
  18. AlbySA

    AlbySA Adventurer

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    Hi to bring everyone up to date on my electrical issues. In spite of the readings that I had from the tests that I carried out, which did include a load test on the battery and at the time the test indicated that the battery was okay. So this morning I went through all of the tests which once again indicated that the solenoid was faulty. However when I did the load test on the battery which this time the battery only had 5 or less volts, so then I did a jump start test and of course the bike started. So now I only need to buy a battery instead of a solenoid.
    The part that confuses me is that in spite of doing a battery load test the first time before checking the solenoid it indicated that the battery was good and held it's voltage , whereas on the second battery load test it failed. Why this happened I don't know. Many thanks to all for the advice and how to fault find.
  19. Beemerboff

    Beemerboff Long timer

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    I did call say relay /solenoid, and my statements were valid for both. Most bikes have both, the relay being part of the safety lockout circuit, but I haven't checked the Hima wiring diagram!

    Someone else suggested a load test on the battery, I would not discount this as voltage alone sometimes does not indicate a dud, some just die under load for no good reason.
    Just testing for continuity or resistance on a component while not under load can be misleading too, best to use a test lamp with a decent bulb in it to see if it will pass more current than that required for a reading on a meter.
    The ignition switch carries a fair load as there are not many relays, and it will give problems sooner or later, the back unscrews so you can check/ clean/grease the contacts.
    Doctor T likes this.
  20. jelorian

    jelorian Adventurer

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    "influencer" huh? Hahahaha. Pocketknife, hankerchief, wristwatch, and cell phone for me. I call it an electronic leash for work and the wife. Hahaha.

    Thanks for the info on Barkbusters. It seems that they have a decent way to select them on their website based on bike model. I'll just take a look and MAYBE drop the $$ there. Although the cheaper ebay options look enticing.

    Cheers man! I did see that on their website. Still trying to decide if I want spend that kind of money on them.
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