Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Anthiron, Sep 2, 2017.
When I was in the army, my best mate was a Maori. Talk about a meeting of two cultures. Great bloke.
No disrespect intended, but, man, the amount of shade tree engineering required to get these exhaust “systems” installed sounds like the bad old days of “universal” exhaust systems in the 60s.
One of the unexpected benefits of military experience.
The mount on mine has held up well over 8k and several impacts good enough to dent the bottom of the can. If it isn’t loud enough for ya I found it was horrible without the baffle so drilled a 1/4” then 3/8” hole in the rear of tge baffle and it sounds just right for a $200 can and pipe. Not the music that comes out of my agostini guzzi pipes but nice deep putt putt putt.
I use my Dremel to cut mine down, sprayed it satin black from the inside. Traveling at anything over 55mp felt like the wind pressure was trying to suck me off(). So i ordered a standard screen and that's what ive kept. My body isn't as streamlined as it used to be
The pleasures of getting back on my bike. Took a round trip of 350miles just following my nose. Changing gear started to get a bit aching towards the end but the enjoyment of just getting out in the fresh air overrode the pain. Since i modified the air filter snorkel id hadn't ridden the bike. The most noticeable change was the backfire on shutting the throttle quickly and a change to the exhaust note. The air was so hot, it was like breathing in the heat from a BBQ( can't see how you that live in hotter climates cope all the time). This is my first ride out with my Frankenstein egg seat cushion. This ive found makes me sit about 2" higher and i can move about more. My first stop was about 3 hours into the ride. At this point, I realized my bum wasn't burning or aching at all. Also, my bum was nice and cool. As i was sitting 2" higher i found i was not getting no turbulence from the screen, i could even ride at 65mph without my Daisy sunglasses on. This was until my eyelid got hit by a large fly thing. The next stop was at an old Pub ive stopped at before
A pint of ice cold Pepsi and a Ham salad later i rode for another hour to watch the steam loco at the Bluebell railway. Heading south i entered Brighton. Due to the weather, the whole area was heaving, stop-start traffic. Once i found a secure place to lock the bike up i took a walk through the back lanes where there are loads of Antique and craft shops. This area hasn't changed much since the 60s. Found another Pub with a large garden so another pint of Pepsi max cools me off. By now time was getting on so the plane was to take the minor road home, following the coast. Arrived home at 6 pm, shattered from the heat, Aching leg but i enjoyed every moment.
Riding is restorative. Glad you’re back at it.
Or Phar Lap and now trying to steal Manuka Honey, bloody Aussies! lol
Yeah, Kiwis and Aussies give each other shit relentlessly but put some Aussies and Kiwis in a situation where shit is going down and we will fight back to back until we have kicked arse, we will then backslap each other have a bunch of beer then go back to giving each other shit.
I see that Delkevic is now shipping these with a double clamp at the muffler. Mine shipped with a single clamp. The secret to avoiding the wiggly strap is to tighten the shit out of the muffler clamps. I glued my gasket in with the supplied muffler goop. Not much clearance between can and swingarm.
Jigsaw can melt the plastic if run too fast and then it can suddenly adhere to the blade and then all hell breaks loose, so to speak.
So I just did my first service, bike fire up and ran good after the oil change, I then checked and adjusted valves, and spark plugs, and cleaned the air filter.
After putting the bike all back together and starting it, check engine light stayed on, and bike was making an odd noise that matched the rythm of the exhaust note.
Would this mean the valves were wrong? Or would it be something else?
Intake was at around .09, exhaust was at a tight .25 after adjusting, prior to adjusting, the valves were super tight and didn't move at all when pressed the tappet
I bought a £20 end can from Wish for my Honda CBR600 F3 as after 80,000 miles the Honda can was rusting from the inside out. It came with a graphite gasket, two springs and two hooks to weld on to the standard header pipe. I didn't own a welder, so to get over the issue, I bought a nice stainless steel Jubilee style clip.
Slid this over the header, put the graphite gasket in the new end can, put the springs on the hooks on the end can, then the springs hooked over the jubilee clip. Tensioned the springs up by movig the jubilee clip forward and tightened.
Been on the bike for about 5 years (sold it to my brothera couple of years ago) and it still looks fine and importantly saves masses of weight over the standard end can. Bike now has over 100,000 miles on it, and only failures in 50000 miles have been a reg/rec and a rotten radiator.
The check engine light would usually result from turning the key on while the fuel pump connection is disconnected (fuel tank removed). That fault can be cleared by using the procedure outlined in a YouTube video. I'm not sure about your noise.
How did you “clean” the air filter? The factory filter is paper and is not intended to be cleanable (which is not to say it can’t be cleaned, at least some—a compressed air nozzle and a shop-vac can remove a surprising amount of filth). But if you washed or oiled it… that could cause some interesting intake restriction issues, and your noise.
I agree with CaptainTrips, the most likely cause of the Check Engine light is turning the ignition on while the fuel pump was disconnected.
Just used a shop vac for the filter, wasn't really anything noticeable in it, just wanted to make sure I got any dust.
All the hoses and plugs were reattached to the tank when started. Although I did turn the key on with the tank removed to get a video of current mileage while I had the bike all opened up, would you have to start it for this issue? Or just turn key will cause it?
Just turning the key on is enough. Many people wiring up accessories and running leads up the frame backbone have found this out. I believe it goes away after a certain number of start/stop engine cycles, or there is a way to clear it more quickly in a youtube video. So that’s not an issue.
The noise… could be an issue if it’s a sign of misadjusted valves (e.g., you didn’t have the engine correctly at TDC when you did the adjustment). I would probably repeat the valve check, just to be sure.
The check engine light will also clear after 5 start cycles.
Yeah, the people on the Facebook page for himis were telling me I adjusted them wrong, it's my first time doing any of my own maintenance to a bike other than an oil change, and I didn't know there were apparently two tdcs, I just found the T and thought that meant I was at the right one.
Any tips for finding the proper tdc?
When at the correct (compression) TDC, both valves should have some clearance.
If the valves have been tightened so there’s no clearance, have an assistant rotate the engine while watching the rockers (the parts that ride on the cam and actuate the valves, not the guys with guitars). On the compression stroke, both rockers should be rising off the cable ends.
Just to clarify, on the compression stroke (when the valves are closed), you should be able to jiggle the rockers a bit.
A lot of people like to rotate the engine by turning the back wheel in fourth or fifth gear; I have always found this requires a bit more contortion than I like, so I just rotate using the big nut on the end of the crankshaft. You turn it counter clockwise to rotate the engine in the forward direction (if you turn it the other way, you will put some slack in the cam chain and the “T” mark will not align properly with the actual valve position). Don’t worry about loosening the nut; the torque required to turn the engine with the spark plug out is waaaay less than what’s required to loosen that nut! If you have one, turn the engine with a breaker bar rather than a ratchet, as the engine likes to jump forward past the TDC mark. Don’t ask me why.
And remember: relax, don’t worry, have a beer handy. This is an easy job, but it is also a slightly fussy one. After having done it something like five or six times, I still usually take two or three tries (adjusting, tightening the locknut, re-checking) before I’m fully happy with the setting.