Royal Enfield Himalayan Owners Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Anthiron, Sep 2, 2017.

  1. kitkat

    kitkat Been here awhile

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    577
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    california
    I was visiting my brother last weekend and helped work on his bike.

    We needed a variety of wrench sizes and it was a pain in the rear to continuously be switching wrenches/looking for the different sizes, and his is a Harley so some heads are standard and some metric.

    After we finished, I ordered him the 6” to keep in his bike kit on the bike!
  2. MrDralas

    MrDralas Super n00b

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    Axle nuts are only 70-80nm so 55ftlbs the steering stem is 30nm 22ftlbs neither of which is very much. I think the knipex pliers would do that all day everyday and never have a problem. If you never used their cobra pliers you should check them out as well.
    Matt TwoTired and JustMikey like this.
  3. justinope

    justinope Long timer

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    I had never heard of those before today but now I'm going to have to buy a pair.. funny how often that happens on this forum :lol3
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  4. JustMikey

    JustMikey Been here awhile

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    Having never Assembled an on the bike toolkit this is all valuable info! Will try medkit aswell.
  5. brghtboi

    brghtboi Adventurer

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    Hello... This is my first post and I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

    I purchased a new Himalayan about a month ago. I just recently took the bike to a local motorcycle shop to have the first service performed. I was mostly concerned with the valve check and making sure everything was tight and wearing normally. The shop called to say the work was done, the exhaust valve was within spec but the intake valve needed a slight adjustment as it was too tight. I was headed for the door when the tech called back and said that on his test ride the bike wouldn't idle correctly so I'd need to come in the next day to pick it up. The next day I called to see if I could come pick the Himalayan up. The tech said he'd been troubleshooting the issue for a couple hours (@$100 per hour) and that while checking the nut that has the marking for TDC (Top Dead Center) it was either marked incorrectly or had loosened up. He said he'd used a camera to check to see where TDC was and it wasn't as the nut indicated. Since he adjusted the valve thinking the nut was correct, that's what is causing the idling issue. It's been a day and they've not called back, when I call they simply say they're jammed with work and will get to it shorty.

    I'm concerned... I suppose the nut could have come loose but I wasn't having idling issues before. I mean the bike ran strong and without issue. Just not sure...

    Anybody have any experience with this sorta thing. I want to believe that this shop is on the up and up and that these guys know what they're doing... but...
  6. Lobo 7

    Lobo 7 Adventurer

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    Hey all, since my first service I’m hearing a little high-pitched clicking sound that seems to be caused by engine vibration from around my oil radiator. Has anyone else had this? Should I just check all the bolts down there once my engine is cool? I tried to post a video of the sound but it wouldn’t let me. Does this site not support .MOV files?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
  7. CarstenB

    CarstenB Been here awhile

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    the TDC mark is not on a nut but on the magnet of the generator. It still may be wrong but that would really surprise me (will check tonight). Who knows, maybe that explains the idle issues quite a few have since the first service?
  8. CarstenB

    CarstenB Been here awhile

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    check if the bottom pipe leading to the radiator rubs on the frame. It's a common issue. You can bend it back a bit or add some washers to the radiator mount to move it.
  9. Lobo 7

    Lobo 7 Adventurer

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    I actually slide my butt back and up onto the pillion seat at times to stretch my legs, and ride like that for a bit, and I’m only 5’8” haha
  10. Lobo 7

    Lobo 7 Adventurer

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    Thanks for the response/advice! I’ll check that
  11. brghtboi

    brghtboi Adventurer

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    CartsenB,

    I found this video:



    It talks about only a single "T" for TDC but that actual TDC is dependent on which stroke (intake or exhast) marks the actual TDC.

    If the intake valve is adjusted and the engine is on the wrong stroke, would that cause the bike to idle incorrectly? Also, wouldn't a bike mechanic know this already and make sure the correct stroke is used?

    Thank you,
  12. pjensen641

    pjensen641 Long timer Supporter

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    Several folks have noted something similar. I recall one found a pinched vent line under the tank. I wonder if there is a line that is easy to link and has bitten more than one person.

    Also, do not pay for hours of trouble shooting for an item that was not an issue when brought in. You are paying for a skilled technician to do the job right the first time. I would want to see significant evidence that it was something totally unrelated to the work they did and that it could plausibly have been a lurking issue that happened to manifest at the same time it was in for service.
    Eatmore Mudd likes this.
  13. CarstenB

    CarstenB Been here awhile

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    yes, that should be common knowledge. If the valves are adjusted at the wrong TDC (180deg off), the play would be too large which indeed could cause idle problems but it's easy to avoid that.
  14. brghtboi

    brghtboi Adventurer

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    pjensen641... Interesting that others have mentioned it. I'll ask about the vent tube...

    On the hours, their explanation is that the first service is to find exactly this type of issue if indeed the nut somehow came loose but I'm not sure how I could even prove that, other than it wasn't having an issue before. I do intend to have a very deep conversation with them regarding "troubleshooting".

    Thank you,
  15. brghtboi

    brghtboi Adventurer

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    CarstenB... Right, I'll have a conversation with them regarding this though. If it is something this simple I'd be quite disappointed in my choice of shops.

    Thank you,
  16. CarstenB

    CarstenB Been here awhile

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    which nut do they say came loose? There were issues with the "crank nut" coming loose. That nut secures the magnet on which the TDC mark is stamped which indeed could cause the mark to be "off". I thought this was fixed on the BS4 models we have and you would have noticed that before you brought it in.

    http://deelipmenezes.com/royal-enfield-himalayan-crank-nut-fix

    The more common cause for idle issues after the tank was taken off is indeed a pinched/kinked vent line to the evap system. If it was that it should be on their dime not on yours.
  17. CarstenB

    CarstenB Been here awhile

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    i just checked and the TDC mark is spot on on my wife's Hima.
    Eatmore Mudd likes this.
  18. justinope

    justinope Long timer

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    Checked and the vent hose seems unimpeded, although I am considering finding some small plastic hose clamps (like the one on the handlebar that goes in that hole), gluing them to magnets and routing it magnetically since its kind of a stupid hose routing. I wonder if that means the hose itself is clogged with something then, might unhook it and blow some compressed air through it to see what happens
  19. JoeyD-SLO

    JoeyD-SLO Been here awhile

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    Just blow with your mouth lol.

    I pulled the EVAP and both go to open air. I think mine was pinched but I pulled it all at the same time and it works better now. The hard part about checking whether it's pinched is you may have un-pinched it checking the hose.

    If anything is clogged it's the evap can, others have reported having issues with this.
    justinope likes this.
  20. CarstenB

    CarstenB Been here awhile

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    only sure way to check if it is kinked/pinched or blocked is to pull it off the valve on the bash plate and blow into it (blowing into the tank). There should be no resistance. But even if it is not blocked, the pressure build up in the tank will happen because the evap system valve takes a good bit of pressure to open. You can test that by blowing into the vent line when it is unhooked at the tank but still connected to the valve. Maybe that's how it's meant to be but maybe they've picked a too stiff spring for the valve or the supplier changed and it went unnoticed. It's pretty simple to re-route the vent line so it doesn't get pinched. It's essentially too long between frame and tank and you reroute it so it is shorter and comes straight up to the tank connector.
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