Royal Enfield Himalayan Owners Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Anthiron, Sep 2, 2017.

  1. CarstenB

    CarstenB Been here awhile

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    there can be an issue if liquid fuel gets into the charcoal canister. Can happen when the tank is overfilled.
  2. justinope

    justinope Long timer

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    I should probably just yank it all, can't remember if it needs something plugged or not though, gotta find that writeup
  3. justinope

    justinope Long timer

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    That makes sense if it can happen anyway as well. I see why its an annoying piece now most just remove
  4. kitkat

    kitkat Been here awhile

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    The bike has a 2 year warranty. Do not pay a dime for anything beyond the first service estimate.

    If there is an issue its on them or Royal Enfield. I'm suspecting the shop screwed up and expect you to pay for it.

    This is just my opinion but, ALL maintenance should be done by the rider!!!!
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  5. azgsa

    azgsa Dude

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    Here's one I did
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  6. huskyrules

    huskyrules n00b

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    ytx9 and ytx9-bs are the same, dimention and cranking power.
    ytx9-bs you have to activate with acid pack provided.
    ytx9 are factory activated.
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  7. Leyprest

    Leyprest Adventurer

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    Maybe upload the video to YouTube and then post a link to it here. This clicking noise sounds like an issue I'm having which started around the 500 mile mark. So is definitely be interested to see/hear your video. Still haven't got to the bottom of what's causing it in my Himalayan yet.
  8. Kiwiscoot

    Kiwiscoot Been here awhile

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    You did check your headlight housing? Common issue with buzzing sound.
  9. Leyprest

    Leyprest Adventurer

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    Great tip. Ordered myself a pair last night.
  10. Leyprest

    Leyprest Adventurer

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    Yeah have checked all the bolts, headlight, exhaust etc. Still no joy. Weird thing is mine only really becomes apparent around 3000rpm. Current suspects is some valve train issue (although I'd expect to hear it at idle of that were the case and I don't).
  11. Kiwiscoot

    Kiwiscoot Been here awhile

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    the issue with the headlight is not the bolts but the bezel (metal surround) of the headlight buzzing against the black plastic part of the headlight. Easiest way to verify it is to run at a constant rpm (3000 in your case) and put your finger on the top of the headlight. If it goes away then that's your source, take the back off the light and put some tape on the top between the bezel and the back plastic.
  12. Leyprest

    Leyprest Adventurer

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    Have already done all that. The headlight is not the cause of the problem. The problem is coming from the engine.
  13. justinope

    justinope Long timer

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    I'd have to hear it but I believe all the Himalayan engines have what many have called a metallic sound at higher RPM's. Instead of the normal revving sound most bikes make it sounds more like something is loose when you start getting up there. Is it different than that?
  14. Leyprest

    Leyprest Adventurer

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    It's not that. It's a definite clicking/ticking sound that only started at 500 miles. It only manifests itself after 3000rpm. It's a sound like a tappet clicking, but it isn't present at idle, nor when cycling through the gears with bike on centre stand. It's only really apparent when riding. Have checked all engine bolts, lights, indicators, frame, chain, brakes, exhaust, abs, etc. It's most definitely coming from the engine. I know the sounds you're talking about and this is extra to that.
  15. Thinwater

    Thinwater Been here awhile

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    I have 5200 miles on the bike currently and have begun to hear a clunk in the driveline at low rpm’s when accelerating in 1st and 2nd gear from a stop. It sounds like the chain slapping the swing arm, or the chain trying to jump the front sprocket. I’ve made sure the chain was adjusted to spec which it wasn’t out by very much and the sound is still there. I thought the front sprocket may be loose on the transmission output shaft but it is properly secure to the shaft. The output shaft of the transmission with the bike on the center stand and in 1st gear has 14 degrees of free backlash rotation (or 3/8” back and forth travel at the chain link center). Is this within normal range? I cannot find an acceptable tolerance specification for this. The closest dealer that I regard the mechanic shop is a far drive. I’d like to identify if I have a problem or not and only take it to the dealer if I indeed have a problem. If anyone would be so generous to measure their rotational backlash at the transmission output shaft so that I could compare it to mine it would be greatly appreciated, or just put in on the center stand in 1st gear and measure how much total travel is in the chain back and forth.

    Update; RE Enfield Customer Support contacted me back and said that this is acceptable slack in the gear backlash stackup. I haven't heard the clunk since the last time I had a passenger which was three rides ago. May just be low rpm lugging bouncing in the slack with the extra weight of a rider. I'll let you guys know if it develops into anything.

    Update; It is in the chain, specifically the master link. .025" stretched longer than the other links in the chain.

    Update;

    Master link that fits and fixed the problem. LINK CON PU 525 O-RING CL... under the barcode *12250281* number in lower right corner GN80HH
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  16. justinope

    justinope Long timer

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    Could be the valves then, they are usually noisy when out of spec enough, but then again usually other issues are more apparent than the noise if I'm not mistaken. Only other clicking / ticking noise without other apparent ill effects I could think of from the engine would be the cam chain tension. But I imagine thats automatic on these bikes so unless that part is faulty not sure
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  17. RossoLinea

    RossoLinea Been here awhile

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    Does it sound like an exhaust leak? It could be the air injection system leaking. The connection is right above the exhaust port and is attached with two bolts and a gasket.

    Regards,

    Ken
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  18. brghtboi

    brghtboi Adventurer

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    CarstenB... I have the 2019 Model BS4 and wasn't having any issues prior to bringing the bike in to have it's first service performed. Yes, the tech was speculating that a loose crank nut was the issue. He said he scoped the head and could see that the piston was not all the way at TDC though the TDC mark indicated it should be.

    I think a crimped vent line is the more likely issue regardless of what he says.

    Thank you for your advice.
  19. justinope

    justinope Long timer

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    Any chance you have an image or video of what to measure? I can do so for you but I can't quite figure out what to measure lol
  20. kitkat

    kitkat Been here awhile

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    Oddometer:
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    california
    Check the valves and adjust if needed.

    Until you do that you’re just guessing and that’s no good on 2 wheels.
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