Royal Enfield Himalayan Owners Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Anthiron, Sep 2, 2017.

  1. Solera

    Solera Been here awhile

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    Yeah, isolated resonances are a pain to find. The vibe on CB at 5k is noted by others. Check out the 2019 500X thread on here. It's there in all gears.
    It's nice being able to chop and change between the bikes, and I cannot really decide which I prefer most. Though if I was forced to only have one it would probably be the Himalayan as that suits my use case more than the CB. Plus if I ever get around to restoring my old K100RT I'll have a big road bike anyway.

    I'm 58 and that crash was a few years ago now. Even though its legacy will live on through permanent damage to my left foot. 70 percent functional and constant nerve pain, but at least its there, almost wasn't. I have had a few accidents in over 40 years of riding, first time I got seriously injured though.
    The silver lining was I got a lot of time to reflect as I recovered over many months (thank god for a lot of accrued sick leave) and decided to retire early if I could. 6 months after returning to work they were handing out redundancies. After 20 years in I got a nice golden handshake. Plus I could access my personal superannuation (401K for US peoples) straight away. Then 12 months later thanks to the lawyers I got a significant damages claim against the other parties insurance. Painful way to earn money though. Don't recommend it. So for the first time in my life I had the funds to pretty much do what I wanted. Then a week later, I was diagnosed with a flavour of Non-Hodgkins Lymphoma (a blood cancer), 'effing, typical I thought. Anyway after all the stuff you have to go through they tell me it probably won't take me out but will be with me till end of days, the little shit. And as my brother keeps telling me, you can't take it with you so spend it and enjoy it.

    That's the long story to how I have 2 new bikes that seem to get compared. Life's too short to procrastinate, I plan to enjoy what's left of mine.

    "As you guys are saying the cb takes a bit to get it more off road worthy", basically yes. Partly the reason I held back on going full rally raid as previously mentioned. The CB cost me AU$9300 on the road here, plus RR would have added another $5K. I could have waited and got a T700. But I with the foot I cannot handle tall bikes well anymore. Hence the CB and the RE were options. The cost wasn't really a factor aside from the fact I hate wasting money. Don't mind spending it, just has to be value for money.

    Have you ridden both yet?.

    If it's possible for both of you, I'd go test ride them together. I still think the CB sounds like the best option for you both. The CB really needs a bashplate/guard before going anywhere near rocky tracks. Those headers are very exposed. Worst mine has seen is a good gravel road so far.
    My Himalayan is getting modded. So far LED headlight is on, light bar next, and DRL's to improve visibility. Also changing to LED indicators as I gather the stock are a bit fragile. Barkbusters, bunch of SRCmoto stuff, crash bars, radiator guard, brake res guard etc. Looking at rear racks but most stick out too far. Hepco and Becker do tuck in better. Though I may break out the TIG and make my own in stainless steel, just got to get motivated enough. New tyres when these wear out. Then depending on how it goes I may splurge on a suspension upgrade.
    I like modding and mucking around with bikes like this and the Himalayan suits that well. Less tech to break I think.
  2. Kiwiscoot

    Kiwiscoot Been here awhile

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    Check out the Zana International rear racks. They are cheap, don't stick out far and the horizontal bars act as crash bars. I am pretty happy with mine and they have survived quite a few drops. You can easily mod them too if you are handy with a TIG.

    https://advrider.com/f/threads/royal-enfield-himalayan-owners-thread.1253460/page-294#post-36831208

    https://advrider.com/f/threads/royal-enfield-himalayan-owners-thread.1253460/page-353#post-37251498

    https://www.zanainternational.com/h...ternational-com/himalayan-htm/saddle-stay.htm

    https://www.facebook.com/zanamotorcycles
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  3. Kiwi59

    Kiwi59 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Hi thanks for shearing this (sheep type) like your style and what you have planned for the Himma. Me I little older but the Himma is my choice as well, also have some more bits to fit to mine as well. Other two will most likely get sold this year, although tempted to keep the Husky until RE bring out a scrambler version of the 650 twinn.
    Hope the health keeps you on two wheels for a long time. Cheers Brian
    Cheers Brian
  4. steelerd

    steelerd Been here awhile

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    Sorry to hear about the Lymphoma mate I'm gonna try check them both out once the covid is over, it's a weigh up between what's the best compromise for what we both wanna do I guess sure I'll sus it out :)

    Keep weighing up our UK riding as well so I can use the bike afterwards to.
  5. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    New toys fitted today. Cost £15.33GBP. Straight fit and no hassle. I went for the long levers. The brake lever feels better for road work as am not sure if it's in my mind but i don't have to use all fingers in an emergency stop. The clutch lever feels much smoother as well.
    IMG_20200805_132612_543.jpg IMG_20200805_140651_958.jpg IMG_20200805_140703_439.jpg
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  6. Beemerboff

    Beemerboff Long timer

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    Are the lever parts cast, forged or billet?
    Some folks have managed to break cheap cast ones in a panic stop!
    Not likely with my small, aged, arthritic hands , of course, but when the adrenalin is up----------!
    If they are forged / billet have you a link to the long ones, easy, cheap way to upgrade the brake if they are longer than stock, but even if not the adjustability is worth the change, for me at least!
  7. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    They are CNC so yes they are billet. They are made from T6061 Aluminum and fitted with sealed bearings. They do look well made which surprised me on opening the box. They are better made than the one's i fitted to my Tiger 1050 which i had to tighten the nuts before fitting. The tiger levers cost £70.00GBP at the time. The only link i have is from eBay UK. eBay item number:143611281049. I did buy the last pair of long levers at the time but they may have restocked. Mine are engraved with an letter "R" under the levers if that means anything to anyone.
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  8. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    Not saying that it applies to those levers, but just thought I'd throw this out there for consideration when one is looking at "CNC" parts manufactured in China...

    While I'm certain this doesn't apply to all "CNC" items, I have learned that in some cases these parts marketed as "CNC", while they are in fact machined, they sometimes (often?) start out as a cast part that is then CNC'd to final dimensions and appearance. So, while technically a "CNC" part, it isn't necessarily machined from billet or forging as we tend to often assume. And, I'm not saying that all cast parts are bad. It depends on the casting process and how well it is done. But, I have seen photos of broken "CNC" aluminum parts coming out of China where the broken surfaces exposed pretty significant internal porosity. I actually asked the question of one Amazon seller and they admitted that their part, that was clearly listed as being CNC, was in fact machined from a casting.

    It's a shame that we sometimes really have no idea of what we're actually buying these days, but that's just the way it is when looking for nice looking budget items. What makes something look good, and be marketable, doesn't necessarily actually make it as good for the purpose as we may be lead to believe...
  9. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    Either way, they look and feel much better than the expensive ones fitted to my Tiger. The machining is miles better and there are no casting marks that i can usually see where seem marks would be if cast. OK, polishing can remove them. Usually, with cast metal, on a very close look, you can still be able to see tiny pits in the metal but these have none. What i can't understand is why would they go to all the trouble to what looks like laser engraved the letter "R" on the levers. ( No there is not a letter "L" engraved on the other lever). Ive never seen this on budget bits before. Only time will tell if they're any good. At the moment am happy with them. You never know i may have found a true bargain(fingers crossed). Also, saved me buy 2 mixed sets to make a pair fit the Himmi.
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  10. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    Oh, don't get me wrong. Not dis'n the levers. In fact, if I can find them I may pick up a set myself. The subject came up about cast, forged and billet and it made me think about what I mentioned above. Just throwing it out there as food for thought for those looking for various budget items being marketed as "CNC" parts. In terms of cheap Chinese items it doesn't necessarily mean what we often take it to mean. Even if the levers are cast, it's not a critical part. But for something that may be more load bearing and critical, I'll think twice about buying an inexpensive component from Amazon or eBay just to save a few bucks over a well known brand name alternative where I have more confidence in their manufacturing process.
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  11. GeeMan67

    GeeMan67 Adventurer

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  12. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    They look the same but in the black version that my seller also sells. Love to know If Hitchcock gets them from the same wholesaler?. Cause their making a hell of a markup. I have found quite a few things that are meant to be exclusive to well known UK RE parts companies but on these selling platforms ive found the same item at up to 3/4 of the price.
    Randy, i get what you're saying. Some so call CNC items from China can be a bit dubious to say the least.
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  13. Beemerboff

    Beemerboff Long timer

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    Drt, thanks for the link.
    All alloy needs extensive and sometimes complex heat treatment to give it it's final strength - the process is usually part of the description- billet perhaps 6061- T6 , the T6 referring to the tempering process used.
    Castings need heat treatment too, but as it can be a extensive, expensive process some lower priced items may not get all the steps.
    Basic information is easy to find on Google, after you read it you probably wouldn't powder coat wheels or weld alloy.
    But a lot of folks do!
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  14. BurnieM

    BurnieM Long timer

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    Somewhere way back in this thread is a reference to a clutch lever from a Kawasaki and a brake lever from a KTM that both fit the Himi.
    Clutch lever was from Kawasaki Ninja 300R/Z300 2013-2018 (lever model K25)
    Brake lever was from KTM 390 Duke/RC390 2013 2014 2015-2017 (lever model FK12)

    A few months back I messaged the seller and bought 2 x Kawa clutch and 2 x KTM brake levers (rather than the sets they were selling).
    They came in a box with FXCNC branding. Material is listed as Aluminum T6061-T6.
    I have not fitted them yet so cannot comment on the quality but the finish is good.

    An ebay search now brings up Himalayan sets advertised -
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Royal-...281049?hash=item216fe63e99:g:FqEAAOSw5y9c9kEJ
    Appears to be the same seller as above - fx-motorcycle.
    Note the photos used are generic and the black pivot pieces will actually be Himalayan specific.

    The levers appear to be similar across all bikes with only the pivot varying.
    It is possible that some manufacturers are making them 'on the cheap'. Without branding on the lever it is hard to tell who they are made by.
    I know a dozen other riders who have fitted this type of lever with no failures (crash damage excluded).
    YMMV.

    EDITED to put all the info together
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  15. BurnieM

    BurnieM Long timer

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    The chinese ebay levers have a model number under the pivot part of the lever.
    Would it be possible for you to remove yours and tell us if they have model numbers and what they are ?
  16. GeeMan67

    GeeMan67 Adventurer

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    Looks to be K26, but that is based on a photo I took that isn't super clear.
  17. BurnieM

    BurnieM Long timer

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    View attachment 2467674

    The model numbers on my levers which look to be identical to Doctor Ts are;
    Left clutch lever K25
    Right brake lever FK12
    FXCNC brand on box (nothing on levers)
    fx-motorcycle ebay seller - https://www.ebay.com/usr/fx-motorcycle

    Would be good to check what Hitchcocks model numbers are.
    No point in paying more if they are the same as ebay sellers.
    .
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  18. Kiwi59

    Kiwi59 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Interesting the world Global market for goods. Take me I import some equiment from China in timber the has come NZ. Sad to say the quality is better than I can get in NZ. With freight etc price is the same as local made. Seems crazy timber to China arrives back to NZ in finished product. Just wonder why the firms produce goods and do look at improving the quality. Reminds me of the old British car and motor cycle industries. Cheers Brian:-)
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  19. Doctor T

    Doctor T Gruppy old git

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    I concur on the stamped numbers K25 and FK12. As in a previous post, mine is Laser engraved with the letter "R".

    As Beemerboff said about powder coating Alloy cast parts. IRC to powder coat alloy cast items the Alloy has to be baked at around 190/200 Celsius to cure. At that temperature, it may affect the strength of the Alloy casting. Say if you are having wheels coated this process may cause premature failure of the wheel. The same goes for wielding Alloy, The heat can cause premature failure around the area where the heat was applied. I have seen whilst at Oxford Uni Alloy castings after they have been powder coated developing structural cracks after the baking process. Just to say powder coating Steel of which this coating process was first developed for has no ill effect in strength.

    Tomorrow the Himmie is going to the dealers for the recall brake inspection. I will ask if i can video the process and to find out if the rumour of the calliper to be replaced or just fitting of a new seal kit along with Stainless steel piston. I have also heard that all UK bike that received the recall letter( this includes the 650 models too) Will start to have the callipers replaced in October. So i will get to the bottom of this in the Afternoon.
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  20. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    I just ordered a set of the FX levers. Paid $19.99 plus $5.99 shipping. I had been planning to buy another pair of RE levers to have as spares in my tool bag on the left tank rack, anyway. And these are basically the same price. So, now I'll give the adjustable levers a try as primary and put the stockers in the bag as spares.

    As far as the alloys go, it's even easier for a manufacturer to falsify the metallurgy than it is "CNC". So, does the ad stating "T6061-T6" really mean anything? I mean, you don't typically receive an MTR from any manufacturer of motorcycle products. And even if you did, you can't trust MTR's coming from Chinese manufacturers. I work in an industry where material requirements are very specific, and we have quite an extensive backstory that can explain my reluctance to take at face value ANY ad I see for a part that is manufactured in China, regardless of the retailer. As a company, for any vital material part, we have a thoroughly vetted list of vendors from which we order. Those vendors provide verifiable MTR's along with the parts we purchase. I don't have that luxury in my personal life so have to make my own judgement calls. It just boils down to trust in most cases... Hitchcock for example, is a retailer. Where do they actually source their levers? Their ad copy simply reflects what they were told by their supplier. Who really knows? :dunno The photos of the ones I purchased today appear suspiciously similar to the photos of the one listed on Hitchcock's site. Comparing the actual items side by side may reveal that they are identical, or that they are not... :dunno

    Either way, with levers I'm not overly concerned. When we start talking about handlebar mounts, triple clamps, or other mission critical parts, I may be a bit more selective on where I'm willing to place my trust.

    Caveat emptor....