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RTW on a H.A.T. In the slow lane.

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by gperkins, Sep 7, 2016.

  1. DunkingBird

    DunkingBird Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2016
    Oddometer:
    451
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    Switzerland, Bern
  2. MrKiwi

    MrKiwi old enough that I should know better Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2009
    Oddometer:
    15,038
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    New Zealand
    Well I never, who'd thought that?
    gperkins and DunkingBird like this.
  3. markinthailand

    markinthailand Long timer

    Joined:
    May 12, 2014
    Oddometer:
    1,086
    Location:
    Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand
    I've run my MSR stove on rice whiskey.
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  4. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,756
    Location:
    NSW, far south coast.
  5. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,756
    Location:
    NSW, far south coast.
    Yeah, I could see that working.
  6. DunkingBird

    DunkingBird Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2016
    Oddometer:
    451
    Location:
    Switzerland, Bern
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  7. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,756
    Location:
    NSW, far south coast.
    There was a time when as many as 50000 Jews lived in Samarkand, today there are about 40 family's left. Bizarrely a lot of the old town of Samarkand has been recently walled off. It's all part of the grand plan of beautifying the new town of Samarkand. It just want do, to have all these freshly restored old and not so old structures just across the main thoroughfare of the working class old town. So if it's behind a tall wall all the better, the town farther's have apparently decided. A good part of this walled off old town is the Jewish quarter, well worth a look around.

    This one is for you DunkingBird
    [​IMG]

    Within about 200 metres of each other you have both a Mosque and a Synagogue. Here we have the small Mosque.
    [​IMG]

    You could spend an entire trip like ours just studying, admiring and photographing the doors. This is a random door to the Mosque's minaret.
    [​IMG]

    These two gave you entrance to the Synagogue.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    A kid and his cart, Jewish quarter, Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
    [​IMG]
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  8. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,756
    Location:
    NSW, far south coast.
    Maybe it's a good thing that we can't cross over to Turkmenistan until next Monday. We've been biding our time here in Bukhara, just taking it easy. The temps have been in the low 40's every day. Further south in Turkmenistan it is all of that and a couple of degrees more. Next week is suppose to be in the mid 30's. Positively cool by this weeks standards.

    Bukhara, like Samarkand also has a long heritage of historical events and buildings. Mercifully though they haven't been restored or rebuilt within an inch of their lives. Here is a small sample of what is on offer here in hot old Bukhara. :knary

    This is the fort or also known as the Ark of Bukhara. It dates back to 400-500 AD. Now Katrina and I have seen what seems like a gazillion forts and castles. But never have we seen walls as massive as these.
    [​IMG]

    Here we have the Kaylan minaret to the right and the Mir-I Arab Madrassa (school) to the left. The minaret has been known in the past as the tower of death, because many were executed by simply tossing them from the top. The size and bulk of it has to be seen to be believed.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Our view from our roof top restaurant last night.
    [​IMG]

    Two kids and a ball. You might notice the one on the right has a slight handicap. He gave as good as he got, thats for sure. Bukhara, Uzbekistan.
    [​IMG]
    scudo, KneeDrachen, DeeGee and 6 others like this.
  9. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,756
    Location:
    NSW, far south coast.
    Today marks 1 year on the road for Katrina and I, perhaps it's time to look back and do a little assessment.
    [​IMG]

    Days travelling 365
    Distance in klms 41538
    Klms/day 113
    Countries visited - motorbike 14
    Countries visited in total, 16 Fly to Cambodia to get our India visas & bus to Singapore to meet an old work colleague, hi Nik. :wave

    Breakdowns 0, I don't view wheel bearing failures or punctures as a breakdown. In each case we were rolling again within hrs.

    Accidents 2 , Car in Australia and oil on the road in Nepal. Numerous other minor tip overs, all of little consequence.

    Cost, not sure, but more expensive than we first thought. Asia has stepped up the cost curve and visas can be damn expensive.

    Illness/stomach upsets - Graeme Too many to count = lost 24 kgs at one point. Started at 91 kgs, down to 71 kg's.
    - Katrina Much less, maybe 3 or 4 - lost about 21 kgs, Started at 78 kgs, down to 57 kg's. :feelgood

    Highlights Borneo, Myanmar, Pakistan.

    Disappointments Thailand permit/guide debacle. Severely reduced our time in Thailand and prevented us from entering Cambodia & Laos.

    Crazy drivers award - India, it's a slam dunk.

    Friendliest most hospitable people Pakistan, but everywhere people are friendly...................even India. :-)

    Accessories I'm most happy with Mosko Moto back country 35's & Scott oiler

    Accessory's I wouldn't bother with, Rox risers (they were stolen in Timor Leste after I removed them, other than $200 wasted, no great loss)

    It's been fun, exhausting, frustrating, fatiguing, stressful, exciting, educational, rejuvenating and a whole bunch more.

    Come mid November we will park the bike somewhere in Greece and take a much needed 3 month sabbatical back home in Oz. Recharge the batteries, catch up with family and friends, then return mid to late February. The plan at this stage is to spend most of next northern summer exploring eastern Europe. We have some very dear friends in the UK, so will probably make our way over there by Autumn, then down towards Morocco and NW Africa before the weather goes pear shaped in Europe. Beyond that is anyones guess, but South America beckons. :ricky
    scudo, DeeGee, 250Keith and 12 others like this.
  10. DunkingBird

    DunkingBird Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2016
    Oddometer:
    451
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    Switzerland, Bern
    Brave travellers ! Do you have to respring your bike or do you await the influence of the 3 month sabbatical :dutch

    gperkins likes this.
  11. Shaggie

    Shaggie Unseen University Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,092
    Location:
    Christchurch, New Zealand

    Great status update mate

    Going well! :clap
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  12. Shaggie

    Shaggie Unseen University Supporter

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    Oct 12, 2005
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    Christchurch, New Zealand

    Great status update mate

    Going well! :clap
  13. Shaggie

    Shaggie Unseen University Supporter

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Christchurch, New Zealand

    Great status update mate

    Going well! :clap
  14. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,756
    Location:
    NSW, far south coast.
    Haha, actually we are now down to the weight that I quoted the shop, that modified our rear shock. I told them that the bike would be carrying a pay load of 200 kg's or there about's. I reckon that fully dressed I'm 80 kg's, Katrina 65 kg's, add about 45 kg's of luggage and acc's and viola 190 kg's +/=. Right on Hondas quoted maximum rating. Therefore you don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure out that when we left home, the bike was hauling 230 kg's. Yikes! :lol3

    I will be taking both the wheels stripped of their discs and tyres and the fork stanchions back with me to Australia. The wheels, to have the spokes replaced because of corrosion. I'm still in discussion with the shop and Honda Australia about this and the forks, assuming the internal hard anodising is wearing away, to be seen to and hopefully rectified by Honda. Some guys in Australia are finding the hard anodising wearing away. There is on going discussion about the potential cause and to my knowledge Honda is still sitting on the fence. Hopefully there will be some kind of resolution shortly. Of course I won't know the condition of our forks until I take them out in Greece at a Honda shop.

    I'll also get a kit from the same shop that did the rear shock to upgrade the front end.

    Actually I've got a loooooong list this of things to get and do when home.
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  15. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    Dec 25, 2012
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    Thanks Shaggie, it doesn't look far for 12 months effort dose it? Thats alright, we like slow and easy.
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  16. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,756
    Location:
    NSW, far south coast.
    Tomorrow brings on a new level of expectation, for we enter Turkmenistan. Our visa is for a maximum of 5 days, many only get 3 days. So from that perspective we should be grateful. The reality is though, we could well be only 3 days. Our nominated route is the eastern crossing from Turkmenibat to Sarakhs. This passes through Mary, where we will most probably spend 2 nights. The main reason being, to take a day doing the tourist thing at the ancient ruins of Merv, a little down the road from Mary.

    After Turkmenistan, it is then onto Iran for about 3 weeks. We've modified our route a little to take in Yazd, Shiraz, (our favourite wine by the way), Isfahan, Shushtar, Tabriz and onto Armenia. Fortunately we Australians don't have to be escorted by a local tour guide. People from the US, England and Canada do have to be escorted, oh that would be a pain.

    The expectation is that wifi will be patchy at best, but lets see what happens. So if things go quiet here for a while, you'll know why.
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  17. neil p

    neil p Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2009
    Oddometer:
    254
    Location:
    La Alpujarra,Andalucia.
    Great RR. Photos and words.
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  18. Shaggie

    Shaggie Unseen University Supporter

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    Oct 12, 2005
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    Location:
    Christchurch, New Zealand
    That's the perfect speed matey :thumb



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  19. Shaggie

    Shaggie Unseen University Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2005
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Christchurch, New Zealand
    That's the perfect speed matey :thumb



  20. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    NSW, far south coast.
    Thanks neil p, it's always good to see a new face pop up from time to time. The encouragement definitely keeps the motivation up to continue the RR. As we move into different regions of the world, we hope to be able to share a beer or two with fellow enthusiasts. :beer
    Yannick and neil p like this.