RTW on a H.A.T. In the slow lane.

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by gperkins, Sep 7, 2016.

  1. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    We are leaving the Local rides of N America for later, Vnam this spring, then some local riding between house projects, sometime in Nov to mexico then possibily back for that 1st birthday in Feb 2020 some time , after which we head south picking up the pace to get on the favorable weather pattern as we go south. Once again considering central America as local we want to concentrate on South America, really want to spend some time in Brazil. the extra fuel is due to not having, up til now, a fuel guage ,which are not much better than an odo check n real world math. Bought it for our RTW bike project so just thought I would use it as the Left side looks like not much is needed to adapt it, just waiting for the mount coming in shortly. Your mpg is what we have seen on our short miles we have ridden, just abit more fuel for those bad decisions by passing the last gas times n we have a by fuel stove for any camping we may do.
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  2. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    Whilst walking the streets here in El Jadida we spotted a motorbike that we instinctively knew to be another overlander. Turns out that Osuma Takemori from Japan has been on the road for 5 years or more. First on a Tenere and now for the last 40,000 klms on a little crf 250 rallye. I wish we had more time to talk, but he had to get a move on down to Essaouira. Hopefully we will meet again in Japan. Osuma is now heading down to South Africa via the western route. Made of stout stuff Osuma. Oh, I wish i got a close up photo of his map, there were red lines everywhere. Anyone out there know or heard of Osuma?
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  3. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    Time to do a bit of a wrap of Morocco. In three days we return to Spain and shortly after start to think about our 6 week break back in Aus.

    In any case we've just been relaxing here in El Jadida doing very little. Take a walk here and there to get a meal and stretch the legs, not much more. Trying to catch up with some things on the net, but man it's slow. This has been a common theme right throughout Morocco, seems the demands on the infastructure here far outstrips the capacity. It's probably taken a good 4 hours just to upload these few photos, grrrrrr, it can get a little frustrating thats for sure.

    We will have been here in Morocco & Western Sahara a little over 6 weeks. Probably about the right amount of time I should think. We've seen enough medina's ( one is enough ), mountains, savana's, sand dunes, huge landscapes and horizons. Been hassled by hawkers and offered hospitality and gifts by others. Woken most mornings by the call to prey from the local mosque, then promptly roll over and doze off to snooze some more.

    For those interested, now that Katrina has caught up with our spend over the previous 12 months, she can fairly easily stay on top of things on a monthly basis. It turns out that we averaged $48 Aus a day here in Morocco. Thats about 30 Euro or $35 US, pretty good actually. Not included in that cost is both the ferry crossing 195 Euro and the insurance, another 190 Euro and about $600 we brought in cash from Spain. So you could reasonably add about 20 Euro a day to the above numbers. Still, not too bad at all.

    Back to El Jadida. It used to be a Portugese colonial outpost, but they left these parts in the 1760's. Leaving behind a huge star shaped defensive bastion near to the port. The town fell into disrepair for a good hundred years or so, but more recently has been brought back to life by the Moroccons. There's a lot of industry on the edge of town that seems to generating a fair amount of income, polution too I might add. But that is not at all uncommon around here.

    View from our roof top terrace here in El Jadida.
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    Fishing is a major industry around here.
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    Loitering on top of the old Portugese defensive walls. Man they are massive.
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    Hmm, I wonder what we can see through here.
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    Ahh thats better, found a wall that matches my stature.
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    Pretty much everywhere is a market around here. Oh, citrus is good at the moment.
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    This way the cemetary.
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    Although I can't be entirely sure, I'd be prepared to wager that there is a bakery at the other end of this chimney.
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    From central Asia to the middle east to north Africa, cats are everywhere.
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    Colour, lots of colour.
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    I think I want that one over there. Yep the one in the middle.
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  4. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    The sun sets for us on both Morocco and Western Sahara, back to Spain for a few weeks. Great food and great people, bring it on. Oh and the small matter of the best Dakar TV coverage in all of motorcycle'dom alledgedly................go Toby two pies and those crazy Russians in their Kamaz's! :ricky
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  5. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    Having crossed back to Spain we've spent a couple of days chilling with fellow long time overlanders Simon & Monika who spent 10 years on the road. Simon in more recent times has carved out a career in photography and kindly offered to take a few shots of Katrina & I. Rarely do we get decent photos of both Katrina & I on the bike together. So here's a huge thankyou to Simon for taking the time to get the following photos of us. Cheers Simon & Monika for a couple of relaxing days. :thumb
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    Thats Gibralter on the horizon.
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  6. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

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    Good one. I had no idea of the massiveness of their undertaking when I met them on the Shetlands-Bergen ferry at the beginning of their trip in 2003.
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  7. MrKiwi

    MrKiwi Love my Tranny Super Supporter

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    nice pics
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  8. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    It is a small old world DavidM1. Along the way they picked up a couple of Guinnes world records and just to add a little spice, Monika had never ridden a motorbike prior to setting out on their little adventure. Mucho respect. :bow
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  9. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    All credit goes to Simon, not I MrKiwi.
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  10. MrKiwi

    MrKiwi Love my Tranny Super Supporter

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    True, but nice to you both on the bike.

    How is your riding gear holding out.
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  11. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    Katrina & I had passed through Ronda previously in 2002, but this is a town worth revisiting. One of the most visited in all of Andalucia, famous for the bridge that connects one side of Ronda to the other. I didn't really capture it very well here i'm afraid.
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  12. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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  13. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    The riding gear has been good and we are both vefry happy, well mostly.

    We started with Forma boots, but have now swapped over to Sidi Adventures. As most would know the Forma's are very comfortable, but mine always leaked and it seems that is fairly common with these boots and of course the down side of comfort is reduced protection. The Sidi's are certainly stiffer and hence more protection and till now water proof. But to be honest we have ridden in very little rain this year.

    Helmets are Shoei Neotec 1's and we are both ver happy with them.

    Pants and jackets as I'm sure you are aware are Klim and again we are very happy and it's no point going over all the pro's and con's as I'm sure most would be aware of tose. It is worth mentioning though that the womans gear has far less features than the mens. This annoys Katrina no end and fair enough too. Lack of pockets is just a start. The quality of construction and water proofness is no issue. It just seems to be that woman are treated 2nd rate when it comes to their gear or the attitude is that woman have other priorities. That is style over function, but maybe I'm wrong here, I really don't know.
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  14. MrKiwi

    MrKiwi Love my Tranny Super Supporter

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    thanks for the update
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  15. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    Thanks yokesman, it is 2 weeks from today that we fly home for our 6 week break, so there will be a couple of updates between now and then I should think.

    I know one thing for sure, once we finally settle back into domesticity we will certainly be opening up our house to one and all to drop by, so that we can pay back in any small way, for all the kindness and hospitality that has been shown to us. Just to share time with like minded individuals is reason enough to welcome fellow travellers into our home. I do hope that when ever you do arrive in Australia that we are home at the time. At our current rate of progress that could be a good few years though.
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  16. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    These last few days have been a perfect example as to what I was just saying above. In our first week in Morocco some might remember that we bumped into two riders from Spain. Luis and Antonio, we were invited to stop by once we were back in Spain and never being shy of turning down an offer like that we arrived on Antonio's and Maria's door step last Thursday. This morning we head off and should be back down at the coast by tomorrow afternoon. But what a wonderfull couple of days we have had together. W've been shown around Cordoba, taken to secret local bar's and restaurants and sat up late enjoying each others company. These last couple of days make amends for the dissapointment that Katrina and I felt 16 years ago when we first visited Cordoba for the express purpose of visiting the famous Mooorish mosque & christian cathedral all rolled into one. We travelled around Europe that year with our two boys driving a clapped out old peugeot towing a pop top or folding camper for about 4 months. To our frustration it was impossible to park anywhere near the old town with the car and camper and we never did get to see the mosque/cathedral. We'll we've fixed that little omission! :clap

    Lets back up a little. In brief, in the year 711 the "Moors" arrived in the Iberian penninsular (Spain & Portugal) from what is today Syria after travelling through North Africa. The Moors came off second best in a civil war in their homeland, so they set off for a new start somewhere else. Up until the year 1236, the Islamic Moors were the overlords of a good chunk of what was mostly Christian Europe.

    Cordoba was one of their major centres and it was here that a large mosque was built. The mosque was to be destroyed but was give a reprieve once Ferdinand 3rd saw this incredible mosque. So instead a cathedral was erected in the centre of the mosque. I'm unsure if this has been done anywhere else in the world. Churches and mosques have swithched roles and the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul is probably the best known example of this.

    When you first enter the building it is the Mosque that you are standing.
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    Then as you venture towards the middle of the building it is the cathedral that you are now within. It really is quite surreal.
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    One of the many courtyards surrounding the mosque/cathedral.
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    It was time to snack. Antonio took us to a little local cafe which we would never have found without his guidence, so as to try some "Spanish omlette" a type of potato and egg dish. Simple but very tastey.
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    After which we continued to walk around the old town.
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    With the new mosaics.
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    And the obligatory Roman bridge.
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    Alongside the old bull fighting ring that is now the town square.
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    Then to a middle ages guest house that gets a mention in Cervantes classic, Don Quixote.
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    Wonderful people here in Cordoba, thank you Maria & Antonio. :clap We will catch up again one day. If ever the oppurtunity arises, visit Cordoba you won't be dissapointed I can assure you of that.
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  17. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    Here in the USA, we have many types of omelets:spanish, chili, vegie n even a Thai omelette. So when in Thailand we found omelette on the menu we jumped at the chance wondering just how it would be made. But the T.I.T (This Is Thailand) occurred, just beaten eggs-only, that omelette in Spain gives us hope for greater things, just as the dishes weve seen thru this site of Macedonia, Greece and the eastern European countrie as we are the " little of this little" of that sort of eaters. As always enjoying the trip report, looks like you brought some of the Moroccan dust over on the AT, maybe you can bag it for a keep sake , though customs in OZ wouldn't be excited about it, but surely no seeds would be found would be your argument?
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  18. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    Oh the bike is carrying a fair amount of Morocco still, no doubt about that yokesman. Once back in Valencia in a little over a week I'll give her a good spruce up. I dread the time we go to clean the old girl prior to returning to Aus, thats going to be huge. Everywhere I look i see nothing but crud and we have a good few years to go yet. I really don't want to think about cleaning just yet. :(
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  19. gperkins

    gperkins graeme

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    Yeah, we found ruins and we all know Katrina & i like a good pile of rubble. This time it was the Moorish palace of Medina Azahara, just a few kilometres outside of Cordoba. Antonio & Maria must be telepathic or something, because they took us there on Sunday, thinking it would be a good day out..........we approve. :nod

    Of course some has been re-erected over the years and it's hard to tell which bits, but thats ok
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    These arches and others here are reminiscent of those at the mosque, thats for sure.
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    Then it was back into Cordoba for some local eats. We just love these little bars and cafes where the locals hang out and eat the regional cuisine. Cheap, great atmosphere and delicious.
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    Final look at th bridge and castle before the sun disapears.
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  20. Yannick

    Yannick Asterix the Gaul

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    Cordoba is certainly my favourite town in Spain (with Granada), I couldn't describe the atmosphere that is emerging from these stones. The best is to arrive by the bridge, that way you have the view of the top of the mosque over the huge fortification wall.
    I spent the entire day wandering into that mosque, from room to room and into the gardens, there's so much to see. But yes the most amazing is those two different styles naves under the same roof, back to back with just the altars facing each other at the bottom of each nave. Very impressing. I have dozens of photos.
    And yes, Spain is a good place to enjoy good cuisine. Like in France, they have so many specialties from their different areas. Y las tortillas ... :dukegirl
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