"Russification" of BMW G650X.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Bli55, Jan 18, 2014.

  1. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    596
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    motorrat, there's no original oil temp sensor...my first placement was between the oil return pipe and oil tank:

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    Now it's inside oil tank. :evil
    #41
  2. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    596
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Some more pics of the coated exhaust. Done by Zircotec in the UK, a company, which, amongst other things, has done an OEM coated “pipe” on this beast: :eek1

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    It has bugged me on all other bikes, all the time. With the X-challenge, it was especially bad as the almost new, shiny and bluing, clean, nice pipe turned to shit within one ride…
    Well, not anymore! :clap

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    Liking this black-on-metal look.

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    Close-ups detailing the texture.

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    I bit the bullet and got SR racing, in titanium, with no cat. :deal
    It is much slimmer and very elegant.

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    No shouty logos, no showing off. Just a muted, barely visible “made by SR Racing”.
    Like a quality watch. :norton

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    Yes, I weighed them (as usual, with absolutely everything – washers, bolts, spacers, clamps etc.)
    Stock = 5.67 kg
    SR = 3.19 kg, or a 44% weight saving.

    I shall drop the details of the mounting, but it turned into a huge mission!! The clearances are so tight it is unbelievable! Eventually, with help from good people, it came together. Well, kind of…Still a work in progress. :D

    Got the header mounted with new nuts, gasket and lots of anti-seize. :wink:

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    Turned my attention to air filters. It is documented how the supplied plastic retainer form Unifilter not only is the wrong shape and holes don’t match up, it also became very brittle and soon broke.
    So…I am not intending to reuse my windscreen, and polycarbonate is light and strong, and easy to cut. Can you see where it is going? :evil

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    In my style of being extremely anal, I fused a scrap piece with some DCM into an overdone corner and reshaped it. Then sanded and cleaned everything smooth for a final test.

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    Spend ages picking out pieces of gravel and thorns from the prefilter. Massive pain in the ass, but got it real clean!

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    Onto the brakes. The front rotor got warped, although I only noticed after changing the pads. Since then I rode ~6000km, and each rotation of the wheel made my caliper twitch back and forth.

    I was almost sure the locating pins would be toast, so went to investigate.

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    :puke1

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    A plus side, with all that shaking about, it had absolutely no chance to seize! :D
    Came right off!


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    Actually, all looked good, so a little polish of the pin and a clean and it was ready for reassembly.

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    Before changing the disc, I see how close the bolt head goes.

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    Of course, I were changing them to stainless with a proper sized hex, so needed to make more space:

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    Got a France Equipment front disc for a F800GS from Scheffelmeier. He said it would fit and is a chunky floating disc. It measured 5 mm new, whereas the stock was 4.5, I think.
    Hopefully, it won’t get warped again.

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    ---------

    Now I needed to sort out a new oil return pipe.
    Luckily, found a second hand one, good but clearly used on a bike without a proper bashplate.


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    Also got my current one bodged together to keep as spare. :D

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    Mounted the new pipe, spending quite a bit of time tweaking it, getting the bends just right for it to sit as closely to the frame as possible.

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    To protect it even further, smoothed a sharp corner of the bashplate directly below the pipe.

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    ---

    Next…

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    #42
  3. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,187
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    Schmocation
    Nice work. :clap:clap

    How much did it set you back to coat the exhaust headers mate?
    #43
  4. casperghst42

    casperghst42 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    219
    Location:
    Rotterdam, The Netherlands (in exile)
    You're rebuilding the bike better than it was from new :clap:clap
    #44
  5. jtw000

    jtw000 Survivor

    Joined:
    May 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    765
    Location:
    Phnom Penh, Cambdia
    This is far and away the most anal... and best work I've ever seen on an XC. I'm watching with interest.
    #45
  6. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

    Joined:
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    I long ago began changing oil and filter after about each 6000 km / 4000 miles. After that sort of distance the oil becomes pretty black. By10,000 km it looks like 100% crude - which cant be a good thing. Personally think its a good idea to change oil more frequently than BMW recommend.

    #46
  7. scooter noob

    scooter noob Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2011
    Oddometer:
    536
    Location:
    DSM, IA

    What type of oil are you using? I've been using Castrol Actevo and only getting around 2500 miles before it darkens up. I'm going to switch to Motorex Synthetic.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #47
  8. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

    Joined:
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    Full synthetic ... Usually Motul 300V 10w40
    #48
  9. scooter noob

    scooter noob Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2011
    Oddometer:
    536
    Location:
    DSM, IA
    Ok. My local KTM/ Ducati shop carries that brand as well. Thanks for the info. :D


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #49
  10. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    596
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Thanks all! :freaky

    145 all in...

    Agreed. Truth be told, I simply forgot to check its condition regularly. The level didn't move a hair's width in a few thousand, so I left it. Huge pain to loosen all luggage to get to the seat too...

    Now, having seen that, I shall do 2 next changes much quicker to rinse the system.

    PS. I'm in for turning this into my 2nd favourite type of thread, so here's a drip test I made on my dirty oil next to a clean drop.

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    It is supposed to give a semi-quantitative evaluation of your oil's washing, dispersing abilities (being able to keep the particles suspended) and the amount of said contaminant particles.

    By these numbers, mine actually seemed OK...
    But it wasn't taken from the dip stick as is recommended, so might not be correct.

    PPS. "Fully synthetic", "100% synthetic" and especially "synthetic technology" in 99% of brands does NOT mean you oil is trully, really synthetic, ie. based on Group IV base stock, being PAO's (poly-alpha-olefins).

    Most likely you will get group III base (hydrocracked) with the usual package of additives.
    In my case, this is exactly it, mainly group 3, decent amount of PAO's (~20%) and some debateful amount of esters (5-20%).

    Motul 300V that Walter uses, I haven't done enough reading to quote it's composition.
    Esters are themselves contained within group 5 ("other", essentially), and are considered synthetic.
    #50
    ArcticRider likes this.
  11. TymeRider

    TymeRider Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2005
    Oddometer:
    394
    Location:
    Sunnyvale, CA
    I'd be interested in any comments and pics you have of what it took to mount the SR racing exhaust and adapter pipe. I'm thinking of mounting one also.
    Thanks,
    Doug
    #51
  12. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    596
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Time for an update, me thinks! :deal

    Received back my cover. Per the manufacturer's spec, we drilled out the hole to 14.02 mm for a quite tight fit. :evil

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    Bushing comes split, so it was a bit of a strategic decision with respect to placement of the hole.

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    I put a little Loctite in the bore, on the bushing and started to drive it in. Wow, it was REALLY tight. About ¾ way in, it just jammed. :huh

    Gentle tapping wasn’t enough, but when I struck it hard enough to get going again, it just twisted in the bore, that bastard!!

    Totally screwed it up… :puke1

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    To add insult to injury, when I popped it onto the engine case, the clutch engagement shaft won’t go into the bushing! I’m guessing it got squashed because of the tight bore and deformed just enough to be binding.

    Off I go to my mate’s again…

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    First, he cut into the bushing until it was so thin that the Loctite (what little of it managed to stay inside) snapped and released it. So, pleasingly, we got back our original, true and straight, clocked up bore. :clap

    It was enlarged to 14.05 mm. This is now getting toward a slip fit, but I’m ok with that. Now it’s more important to be able to press it in perfectly square and aligned, with the Loctite taking care of the rest.

    However, it didn’t quite feel right, so we went to 14.08 mm. Still tight, but easily adjusted inside by hand (up to about 1/3 way in).

    ---------------

    In the meantime, I was working on the chainset.
    Front looked reasonable.

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    I originally bought aftermarket sprockets from Scheffelmeier, but wasn’t satisfied with it’s loose fitment. Here’s to illustrate the difference between that and OEM:


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    Decided to follow other’s advice on removing one of the springs .Of course, wasn’t enough to just disconnect it and leave dangling around! :D

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    Then cleaned entire assembly, replaced all fasteners with stainless, used normal allen heads and loctited them all gently.

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    ---------------------------------

    Used this chain and set to work. Perfect opportunity to test out my future trail tool, the Terra-X breaker/riveter from Australia.

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    Ordered extra length specially to have this little set to carry on the bike.

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    ------------------------------------

    Back to this now! Exciting stuff!

    Second time round, I come prepared and a little wiser. :D
    Got a 12mm bolt to act as the driver.

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    Coated only the lower part of the bore and only the top of the bushing to avoid premature...gluing. BTW, that is Loctite 648, a high strength, high temperature retainer.

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    Moment of truth! Sure enough, went in smoothly at first.
    Split kept inline with the mark nicely. Then…

    Gets stuck! A little harder hit frees it but twists again! With only 1-2 mm of bush protruding from the top, panick sets in… I grab the first thing I see, a pair of long nosed pliers, hold the bush and…to my surprise, it was smooth as silk! The Loctite itself acting like a lubricant, enabling me to alighn the bore perfectly! A few turns to distribute it evenly, and a gentle, aimed tap all the way down.

    Win!!!!!

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    Next, new needle bearings and seal, inner bearing driven with the same bolt and a variety of adaptors. :deal

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    To finish today’s post, rear brake clean and grease:



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    Fat, fat pads!!! Only just able to put the wheel on, and that’s with the piston aaaaall the way in.
    Nice and meaty! :D

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    #52
  13. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    596
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    TymeRider, sorry, I see your request, but need until later to consolidate the various stages of photographing and put all together.
    #53
  14. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    596
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Quick one today…


    Rear sprocket was toast.
    Bolts were a bit-h to remove!

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    As it turns out, rear stock is aluminium, might have as well been made of cheese. :puke1

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    Got a golden master link to find and check it quicker and to use as reference point for chain cleaning, lubing and adjusting.

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    Still with only 12000km on the clock, decided to check valve clearances again. Reason being one of the inlet valves was close to the tight side and I was worried it might have moved on a relatively new engine. :D

    People praise these Rotax motors for how stable they are wrt valve clearances, and they are totally right!


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    I would now definitely consider this rotax to be well-broken in, with little to no possibily of sudden movement.
    Considering this together with their legendary stability, I feel there will be no need to go there for a looong while.

    And since access to spark plugs is rubbish, there was no choice, really, but to change them again.

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    Iridium NGK’s…sexy, but required for a friendly local car dealership to dig me out a pair of screw on nipples.

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    Next, putting it all back together, airbox went on and one of those threaded inserts played a cruel joke on me. I was lucky enough to be able to drill out the bolt, and melt the insert back in place like this.

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    Picked up a spacer for my exhaust. Bolts arrived just in time, and all measurements were bang on!


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    Mounted! Flipping awesome sound!!!

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    Tidied up some wiring whilst in there and secured the spare throttle cable to oil tank overflow.

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    Finally found the closest thing to my idea of perfect indicators. :D
    Nice black machined case, frosted glass, decent all-angle visibility…

    Just needed a bit more weatherproofing, so took each apart and sealed the inside as well as the thread (standart on the right).

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    --------------

    Here is one of those spontaneous projects that I never even thought of doing…until Pine Sol’s suggestion made several months ago. His original work is the only example of G650X footpeg lowering I could find:

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21770592&postcount=5770

    And mine shall become the second, but correct me if it’s wrong, as I’d love to see other adaptors.

    It all started, innocently enough, with a quick cardboard sketch and a wood mock up.

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    Constraint was to have them higher than bottom of skidplate, so they will be level with the HotRod side parts.

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    Left side was hard enough, with the sidestand and it’s spring, the shape of it all and how closely it needed to fit. But this was a great opportunity to place the pegs exactly how to make them most confortable for me, not something BMW would ever think about.

    I took this opportunity, and decided to also cant them forward. :deal

    I shall skip lots of details about the rigmarole of getting it symmetrical, as then it started to get technical, very quickly. :evil

    The realisation dawned when I moved onto the right part and realized that NOTHING is the same as the one I just did….So it was back to the drawing board…


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    Eventually, I nailed it!

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    Just for some idea of the relocation, left side is in stock position.

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    Until next time!
    :freaky
    #54
  15. Dorito

    Dorito Dreamer and Doer

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    7,270
    Location:
    Maryland
    Gosh, the SR Racing Exhaust really gave you a run for your money mounting it! I've got mine mounted, but after seeing this pic, I am convinced that mounting the rack will be a pickle for me as I partially block the front bolt hole needed for the rack.

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    #55
  16. Johnnyboxer

    Johnnyboxer Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,296
    Location:
    Yorkshire, UK
    Wouldn't Pivot Pegz be easier?

    I have them on mine and find then really comfy to rock backwards and forwards whilst sat on the seat

    Graet build going on there:clap
    #56
  17. NVTS

    NVTS Arrivee Secteur Special Supporter

    Joined:
    May 18, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,329
    Location:
    Big Lick Virginia
    I think integrated peg lowering brackets AND control protectors would be an awesome addition. Might want to give Erik or Sheffelmeier a chance to produce such an item. The resurgence of these bikes in the aftermarket is amazing. Thanks to everyone for publishing their builds.:clap NVTS
    #57
  18. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    596
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Have you seen this?

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    More pics here - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18306999&postcount=100


    I though about that, but it's too much work and I cant weld and don't have equipment to learn.

    As for pivot pegz, I would really like to sit on a bike with them and feel what it's like. :wink:
    Then there's always an option to add them later, so I'll have pegs both lowered AND pivoting.

    Furthermore, they will be pivoting more closely to their midrange sweetspot! :deal

    (I find to like riding with my toes pointing downwards, and often standing on the leading corner edge of the stock pegs...)

    Johnnyboxer, where in their range of movement do you find your pivot pegz most often mate?
    #58
  19. Johnnyboxer

    Johnnyboxer Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,296
    Location:
    Yorkshire, UK
    Like you when sitting, my PP are tilted forwards & this makes reaching the gear lever & pedal easier

    Stood up they're neutral but going uphill or downhill, I can shift my weight fore or aft very easily
    Main benefit with PP is that your feet are anchored to the pegs & less chance of slipping off & bike changing line in the dirt

    They work brill & are much stronger than the oem pegs which are cast & after a simple drop on a rock, just shatter & it's ride over

    PP are mega strong
    #59
  20. photoimely

    photoimely n00b

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1
    Anybody with any experience with BMW G650X engine HP Derestriction ???
    Thanks!
    #60