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Discussion in 'Latin America' started by gaspipe, Mar 12, 2009.
Aww Phuch Yue Guy, I give ups.
The goats of San Juan de las Pilas paying homage to da Goat Stuntaz!
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Riding northwest up over San Pedro Pass.....
San Pedro Canyon....where the road ends....
I have a video of a Baja ride from the Lizard Lady's website just available after last Thanksgiving and I think it includes footage of that ranch. I'll have to check it out tomorrow again.
You'd have liked that portion of the ride - it was right up our alley. It would have been an hard event on the 950. Sorry I missed you on the phone yesterday - I was actually out riding the newly rebuilt Gasgas 300 in the rain
This was probably a "best of" and "worst of" day rolled into one. By the time dawn broke the following day I concluded it was probably the best day of riding in Baja I had done so far.
I had awoken that AM with a little Montezuma's revenge, and was thinking I may have a day on the asphalt with lotsa bathroom/puke stops. I stopped on the way out of Mulege at the Farmacia for some Electrolytes and Dramamine. An hour later I was feeling much better as we ascended the sierras towards the ex-mission Guadalupe (North off the San Raymundo wash road).
Here's gaspipe motorin along.
dogbro, Estevan, was motoring along as well, and competently ascended the loose rocky climbs up the Sierra San Pedro. Estevan hadn't been eating a lot over the previous few days as he adjusted to the cuisine. This caused a badly timed low blood sugar event. The heat and elevation did compound things slightly, but the main problem was low blood sugar.
I love the picture Gaspipe has of Estevan and I chillaxing in the shade in true Goat Stuntaz style. We had bucked off all the gear and were cooling off, when Gaspipe came riding back down the mountain with a WTF r u guys doing look.:huh
[more to come]
After a brief confab, we geared back up and summitted the Sierra. It was a million dollar view.
Estevan was diggin it!
There was a fairly decent two-track, albeit steep & rocky, down the other side into the canyon.
You can see the road down there, very close to the base of the mountain. We were going to lose a bunch of elevation in a hurry. It was cooler over on the Pacific side, which was some relief for us Canuckistanians.
This is going to be great! Gaspipe said something to the effect, "Once we're down the hill, it'll be smooth ride out the arroyo to La Laguna"
It's around 1PM, we have no food, no water, "Cool, let's go!"
[more to come]
Goat Stuntaz meet the Goat Farmers.
There was tense few seconds as I was the first one to roll up to Rancho San Pedro, maybe only a minute or two before the others.
The first guy I see starts waving at me and starts in a dead run straight for me. He looks to his right and shouts, suddenly another man quickly appears from behind rock wall and walked towards me. Glancing towards the second man I glimpse a third cowboy circling behind an to my left in my limited peripheral vision.
[more to come]
The face of the closest cowboy must have shown no malice because I quickly shut my bike down and removed my helmet. They were all around me now, and with a big smile I extended my hand towards the closest one and introduced myself. Smiles all around now.
They confirmed that this was Ranho San Pedro and we made some small talk about their goats and cows while the other riders rolled in. Nice fellows, pretty remote lifestyle to be sure.
The fellow who came straight at me in a dead run waving his arms turned out to be a boy of maybe 14 or 15 yrs, and he was just excited as hell to see us.
They had some info on the road ahead that was less than encouraging...
We pressed on, and the road was soon gone, replaced by boulder fields stretched between the odd patches of deep sand.
Eventually we arrived at Rancho San Juan de Las Pilas where Jesus and Mary saved us. They had spring water which had no taste or odour - awesome! We rehydrated and chatted while we enjoyed some oranges that Jesus had picked for us. Estevan claims they were the juiciest oranges he has ever eaten.
Our host, Jesus.
He looked on as we devoured the oranges, and his wife Maria went and retrieved their guest book for us to sign. They had dates going back to the mid nineties, the tourist road to the cave paintings had put these folks on the map.
With full camelbacks and waning light in the canyon we bid them farewell and proceeded to pound our way down the canyon.
I love rock riding, probably why I love the Comondus so much, and was having a great time bashing down the blown out arroyo. I took a picture of myself to remind me later that although it was trying, I was having fun.
Estevan's sugar hadn't sufficiently recovered and within a few kms was competely bonked. The canyon was pretty steep walled and absolutely beautiful.
Light was fading more quickly now, so I told Gaspipe and HWSNBN that we'd most like stop at the next rancho for the night. I was optomistic we could scare up some food.
See ya in Laguna San Ignacio!
Great looking trail & nice write . Looks like a few trail in Southern AZ. sans ocean. I always carry a Kaytedyne H2O filter for rides like this. Used puddle holes for water, never taste sweeter and it has saved my ass more than once. Have to put this ride on my list, thanks for the write up guys.
Not as it turned out. Or even inside-out. Neither of us was that hungry...:huh
We reached El Zauzal just at dark, and I couldn't tell if the main part of the ranch was deserted or the folks were just in town at the hockey game. We were only a few kilometers from the exit of the canyon, but it would have been hell in the dark. So to play it safe we setup camp in one of the deserted outbuildings.
Basking in the cool 90 degree evening air, we setup our bedrolls on some palm fronds, split our remaining orange for dinner, and tried to get some sleep. We were sweating like pigs in the still night air, it may have cooled down to 24 degrees C by about 3AM. Something nearly directly above my head was eating through the roof, and I listened to the gnawing for awhile until I noticed that something was falling from the ceiling onto my groundsheet right beside my head. I swapped ends so the debris would fall by my feet instead.
Estevan slept a little, I heard him snoring periodically, but neither of us got much sleep. The heat, concrete floor, hobo spiders & scorpions on the walls, and whatever was eating it's way through the palm frond ceiling conspired against whatever plans of real rest we had. I thought about Gaspipe and HWSNBN sleeping in beds with crisp cool sheets that smelled of bleach, downing a cold six pack...and I lost consciousness for awhile.
You guys have crammed a hell of a lot of "adventure" into just 3 pages of a ride report.
I don't know how you could even close your eyes in those accomodations.
...I drifted back into semi consciousness and listened to the sound of the night, it sounded like Estevan was awake (otherwise I would have heard snoring). I said aloud, "Gonna be dawn soon." Estevan replied, "You sure? What time is it?" I fumble in the darkness for my SAT phone and power it up. 12:31 am. "FAWK!"
One of the times I stir, I notice that the walls are beginning to glow with predawn light. I start to get packed up, Estevan follows suit and by the time dawn breaks in the canyon we are rolling.
In the daylight it was less spooky. Hotel Zauzal.
How you'll know you're there
Nice Rancho, completely deserted while we were there, but had a little bit of a "be right back" look to it. The cistern was full of water, they had a radio antenna and a fuel barrel. The road from here on out of the canyon was progressively better, so maybe they were just out for the night visiting relatives.
Estevan fired up the SPOT tracker and we were underway just after six, and shortly we rolled past Rancho Las Tinajitas.
There was a long climb away from the arroyo up onto the mesa. It was technical and long, really long. It didn't look long from the bottom, but once you're going up it - geebus it just goes on and on.
We passed through El Patrocinio and decided against stopping since we were getting close to the main road. Around about this time the boys had word on our SPOT location and knew we were on the home stretch so they could just enjoy their morning coffee in peace.
We stopped and chatted with Radolpho in Tres Palmas, he had heard the two bikes go by the evening previous. Later, Gaspipe recounted to me stopping outside that rancho the night before and seeing no signs of life. They heard only the most enormous "BEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLCCCCCCCCCHHHHHHHH!"
So they just rode on.
We got back out to the main road and headed North to Laguna San Ignacio and Rice and Beans. We made a quick pitstop at the Tienda in San Zacarias and chomped down a few snickers bars and a gatorade.
[conclusion to come]
Snickers really satisfy, really.
We rolled into Rice n Beans around 8:45am and promptly bucked down and wen over to the resturant for coffee and Pancakes (I think) I'm a little foggy on that morning. I know we ate something then went and passed out for a couple hours.
Hardcore Goat Stunta Estevan rode all the way from Zauzal with a hitch hiker in his boot. A 3" long yellow scorpion .
Around lunch we found HWSNBN and Gaspipe exactly where we left them at the bar. A mad trip around town asking everyone that would stand still where the lavanderia was. Finally a helpful storeowner drew me a map. After a few lefts and rights we arrived at the place and the discussion that ensued was priceless.
An 80+yr old man comes out of the house, blind from cataracts, deaf in one ear, can't hear out the other ear.
Translated from Spanish
"Can we get our clothes washed?"
"Is there someone here that does laundry?"
<WE can see 4 machines in the shed beside us with laundry piled on them>
"Should we come back later?"
"In an hour?"
"So we'll be back in an hour"
"No, 10 minutes"
"So we should come back in 10 minutes?"
"We will come back later"
The blank look of the old blind dude said, "C'mon gringo, I can keep this shit going all day..."
So we did what any stranger in a strange land would do, and hit the deposito for some cold ones.
24 hours in Baja with Gaspipe, anyone interested in hearing about any of the other days?
Say, that gaspipe fellow sure sounds like a good time..... :huh
So there's a pretty good snapshot of 24 hours in Baja on our last trip. Always fun, always an adventure. Of some sort.
So, what's behind the Green Door?
Well that's another story altogether...I'll ping Estevan for some behind the green door photos and perhaps we can share that tale this weekend...
Goat Stuntaz Represent Yo!
BTW GP, How do pick your victi, er I mean partners. Is it based on riding skill, digestive ability or working status?