Sauerkraut & Tofuwurst - Vegan bikers trotting the globe

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by kuhjunge, May 5, 2013.

  1. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    879
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    The weather forecast for Andorra promised more snow for the next night, so we were more than happy to leave before. The morning was again beautiful, sunshine with some clouds and about +10C. The sun was heating us up a little and it did not feel so cold. Just before crossing the border to Spain, we filled our tanks - petrol was the cheapest so far on this entire journey with 1.215EUR/l. Good for our budget. There were so many filling stations along the main road that I lost count of them.


    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We made quite a dip of about 1700m height difference in 47km distance, this seems to be still fine for all the ladies and me.
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>

    Northern Spain welcomed us with curvy roads in best conditions and a stunning landscape. I have never been there by bike (neither has Skippy) and I needed to make a few stops to enjoy the scenery. We rode mostly along N260 and we can both highly recommend this!


    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch break in northern Spain.
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>
    We stayed for a few days in a tiny village called Escalona. It was so tiny that it was not even on my Spanish streetmap ;)


    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neighborhood when walking the dogs.
    </td></tr> </tbody></table><table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">
    [​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening show from our hotel window: Plenty of hawks, eagles and vultures
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>

    We continued to ride small roads, often they were not on my map and I relied fully on my Garmin. I also became kind of seasick when riding those tiny roads - not very nice. I found some hints on what to minder the effect: no booze the night before (surprise!), no coffee in the morning and focus on the street and less on the GPS/maps. That seemed to help me :) ​
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another place where we needed to stop. Click on the picture to enlarge it and see the magnificence of those rocks.
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>




    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click on the picture to enlarge.
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>
    Finally we made it to another super tiny village - Fago. Since it was deeply off-season, only 15 people lived there when we were there. The village gave us a little chill, since it almost looked like a ghost town. The houses have only small windows and thus it was hard to see the inner lights in dusk which made it really spooky. Streets lights went on very late in the evening and then only the street lights were shining.


    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fago - great place to be if you seek peace and want to be in the middle of nowhere.
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>

    When we booked this hotel, it said that no parking was available. Since the price was decent and dogs were for free we decided to take the risk and bet on the fact that with our small bikes we always find a parking place... and so we did. The owner was so kind and offered also to use his garage, but there was no need to start hassling around. The spot was ok for all.
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our hotel and perfect parking place for our tiny motos.
    </td></tr> </tbody></table><table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">
    [​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cats guarding the door.
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    </td></tr> </tbody></table>

    Since recently, we stayed two nights in one place. Then we felt somehow stressed with this rhythm and we decided to change it to staying at least three nights in one place. So we have two full days to explore the surroundings, write the blog, do some minor maintenance, have a short day ride or do whatever we want or needs to be done at that moment.


    Around Fago there were many small marked-as-scenic roads, which means those are typically curvy and/or something to see. So we did. We passed by the stunning Mallos de Riglos on our way to Castillo de Loarre. The point we missed was that we left late and the driving took more time then expected.
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mallos de Riglos in Hoya de Huesca comarca, Aragon

    </td></tr> </tbody></table><table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castillo de Loarre (no dogs allowed, so we stayed outside)

    </td></tr> </tbody></table><table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the castle and all is flat behind here. Good point to see who crosses your land and collect taxes ;)

    </td></tr> </tbody></table><table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mallos de Riglos in sunset.

    </td></tr> </tbody></table>

    This together meant we were driving the last 50km on really tiny roads and some 30km on some major road in complete darkness. Not very nice and extremely dangerous. I started to pay much more attention to my inner voice (especially after my last ticket in Finland where I did not listen to my instinct). When there was a car standing on the opposite lane with driving lights and emergency lights on, I slowed down as I thought there might have been an accident with a wild animal (I saw only one car). When I came to an almost complete stop I saw a brown cow blocking my lane. I am really not sure if I would have seen it in time to stop in time when riding 100km/h. Thank you very much my guardian angel :)


    It was time to move on towards San Sebastian. The weather was first nice and sadly in the last 20km or so it started raining slightly. The next day we saw this when we had our morning walk with girls: SNOW just on the opposite mountains. This made us heavily re-think our plans for the next weeks.
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">San Sebastian hillside

    </td></tr> </tbody></table><table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is not the way to keep such birds!

    </td></tr> </tbody></table><table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neither those chicken and Indian Peafowls - far too small cage and dirty as hell!

    </td></tr> </tbody></table><table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some rain washed this steep slope and left a mess on the lower street. This section was closed for traffic, so peaceful for us to walk with girls.

    </td></tr> </tbody></table><table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Howdy - no need to panic... we come in peace :)

    </td></tr> </tbody></table><table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Locals grow their own chilli in their backyard.
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>
    The reason to come to San Sebastian was that Skippy had a photo shoot there. That cheered her up a lot and it brought a welcome change of things-to-do. The photographer brought an assistant and it was her first photo-shoot and it sounded that she was more excited then Skippy :D (click here to see Skippy's portfolio)


    Instead of continue to ride through the Cantabrian Mountains and towards Portugal, we decided to head south towards Alicante and warmness. There are several things to do and the bikes need their next maintenance.


    ~ Wolfi
  2. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    879
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    Here is a modest attempt to capture some of the beauty and stunning roads of northern Spain on video.



    <iframe allowfullscreen="" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/T8Olz_95GJg" frameborder="0" height="360" width="640"></iframe>



    Click here if you have trouble to watch the video in youtube.





    ~ Wolfi
  3. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
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    Here is a video about what we typically have for dinner and how we prepare it. Enjoy the show...





    <iframe allowfullscreen="" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/bgs8-DvhxoY" frameborder="0" height="360" width="640"></iframe>



    ~ Ilta & Wolfi
  4. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
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    and in case you want to have the recipe for those tasty salads -click here
    :deal
  5. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
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    Snow - that was not what we signed up for when coming to Spain. The cold weather did catch us somewhat by surprise and even the locals told us it is too chilly for their taste. At San Sebastian the temperature meter did not climb over 10C and it seemed to rain and drizzle almost all the time.

    Of course heading south meant also that we needed to cross a few mountains :-o

    The first leg from San Sebastian to Logrono was rather boring. We climbed up to 1000m and we saw some snow. That was not too bad and once we went over the hill it rained less and we arrived safely in the hotel's underground car park.

    The hotel was located in a shopping mall and we wanted to experience a movie in Spanish language as well as go bowling (we've been talking about this for 6 years now :D and it hasn't happened yet). Skippy was totally frozen and got sick. There were some sunny moments, but the wind was strong and the meter was still max 10C. In other words it was damn cold and I wore my biking gear when I walked with girls.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our hotel window in Logrono (click on the picture to enlarge)</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Surroundings gave me the feeling of end-time movies ... </td></tr> </tbody></table>
    The next leg from Logrono started with rain (again). I did not see the height of the passes on my big-scale map and once more we got caught by the winter. Starting from 1100m height it started snowing and the pass was about 1400m (help!). The streets were lovely curved and once more we saw stunning landscape, however we could not enjoy it and I developed a tunnel vision. I was too stiff to look much left or right. Later the weather got better and it stopped raining.


    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Somewhere along the road - this was too magnificent view to let it pass by (click on the picture to enlarge) </td></tr> </tbody></table>
    Once we arrived in Calatayud we were dry but deep frozen. Lucky for us this place knew how to heat the rooms and we slowly got melted. Typically Skippy jumps into a bathtub (she got lucky here again) and melts herself in a hot bath for many minutes.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Locals dumping trash just "behind" the fence</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    The next legs to San Antonio and further to Alicante were a bit easier to ride. The temperature was between +2..+10C, however sunny and that helped - at least - mentally. I did not stop much to take pictures, therefore I have another video here with some road impressions - enjoy... :)

    <iframe allowfullscreen="" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/kRa4_Jvqxg4" frameborder="0" height="360" width="640"></iframe>


    Click here if you have trouble to watch the video.



    ~ Wolfi
  6. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    879
    Location:
    Earth
    Finally we came to some warmer climate. Since we decided to skip most of Spain and Portugal it was for us now more like riding km and getting south towards Africa. We decided to spend over a week in Alicante to receive some parcels and do major maintenance on both bikes. Thus this is again mostly a "speak by picture post". Enjoy!

    The days in Alicante were warm and it was almost hot when there was sunshine. The nights and mornings were still chilly and the temperature was sometimes below +10C.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally - beach, sun and warm</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    It was also time to do major maintenance and some repairs on both bikes. I did not want to do the oil changes at the hotel parking lot and I asked in Facebook for some advice/help. Thanks to Fanney from the Motorbike Riders Spain, she advised me to visit the Motocenter Levante in Alicante - they were some 4km away from the hotel - a convenient distance.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Motocenter Levante, Alicante (picture from the google+ page)</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    At this point I would like to say big thanks to Antonio, Cesar and the other guys from the Motocenter Levante who helped me. I was able to do the work on their parking place as well as borrowing me some not-so-typical tools.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oil changes in the car park of Motocenter Levante, Alicante.</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plenty of metal from the gearbox - I'm slightly concerned.</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    The rest of the maintenance I was able to do at the parking lot of the hotel.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skippy's chain oiler leaked somewhat (yes, Ralph from the extension tube connection)</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lucky me, I still have a little bit of silicon with me - that shall do.</td></tr> </tbody></table>


    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And then I got a friend</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More friends over there</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hurray - my new rear shock from YSS came</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And right away into the bike. That was the last piece of the basic building part of the hack.</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And we got stormy weather</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with plenty of debris and plastic inside there</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>
    We had many nice walks on the beach and we played also a bit with girls there. Typically Ulpu does not look back, neither left nor right and thus she did not see the bigger wave coming from behind. Skippy needed to step into the water to save Ulpu from being almost washed away. She was in total shock after that, all wet and freezing and Skippy carried her home quickly.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ulpu after a hot shower to wash the saltwater away</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We got more stormy weather</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and nice and warm days as well</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laundry day</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So much ham, poor pigs</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We got our enjoyment from delicious fruits</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My version: The guy on the left stopped to admire my bike and thus the ladies hanged around there waiting. The guy on the right came along and tried to sell his bags to the waiting ladies. Then he used my bike as a table. Skippy said, that nobody admired my bike and the guy only used my bike as table... I like my story more.</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    When there is a kitchen, Skippy cannot resist to do some tasty warm food.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our "pikkujoulu": smashed sweet potatoes with cardamon and cinnamon, garlic mushrooms and Falafel (bought ready)</td></tr> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Chili con Sesamo" a.k.a. raw chili with sprouted chickpeas and raw garlic tahini sauce (Skippy's recipe).</td></tr> </tbody></table>

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lyra is totally bored... when do we play again?</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    Back to maintenance... in the end I ran out a bit of time and had bad luck with a stuck screw. At least there was something to do in Tarifa as well :)

    We were in good mood - heading towards Tarifa and going to Africa.

    ~ Wolfi​
  7. enduro0125

    enduro0125 Sticks and Stones™..

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  8. Sunday Rider

    Sunday Rider Adventurer Wanabe

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2010
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    2,316
    Location:
    North of T.Ho., Ontario
    Are the "girls" vegetarian too? They look very healthy.
  9. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    879
    Location:
    Earth
    thanks for the thumb-up, we already started to wonder whether anybody reads our story :norton

    all our dogs are vegan, not just vegetarian :wink: ... well with the occasional bugs and flies they hunt as well as other stuff they want to eat from the fields :eek1
  10. Sunday Rider

    Sunday Rider Adventurer Wanabe

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,316
    Location:
    North of T.Ho., Ontario

    I look forward to your updates and wonderful pictures. Lots of folks watch, but sometimes it feels like one is interrupting the story by posting a comment. As you can see, I don't have that problem.:D

    I use the term vegan and vegetarian interchangeably, I guess I better get it straight.:lol3

    Best wishes for a continued safe journey.
  11. enduro0125

    enduro0125 Sticks and Stones™..

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2006
    Oddometer:
    35,414
    Location:
    WNY
    :nod

    And many types of vegetarians.

    I'm a lacto/ovo (egg and dairy) been for 20 years now.
  12. uhwo

    uhwo Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2013
    Oddometer:
    13
    Greetings from Tampere! Have good one! :clap
  13. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    879
    Location:
    Earth
    Greetings to Tampere :1drink
  14. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    879
    Location:
    Earth
    We thought it was a good idea to plan a little ahead when it came to using ferry. We looked at the various companies and decided to go to Tarifa (more about this in another post). Three legs and we would be in Tarifa with each leg about 250km. From there we would take the ferry to Tangier and spending Christmas in Morocco. That felt exciting. Besides this, there would be a good chance for some last maintenance in Tarifa (i.e. within EU) and getting papers for Africa organized.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A strange landscape appeared to us - the area was full of greenhouses.</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    Our first stop was in a tiny village. It was so tiny that all shops and everything else were already closed as the summer season had ended. When we booked it, it looked good and it was so cheap that we could not believe it first.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A much different landscape compared to Alicante.</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our big terrace, in which we enjoyed breakfasts in the sun.</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    The place was freezing cold inside and we did not like it very much. At least the sleeping room had a heating device and when we were inside, we spent most of the time there. In addition we only had cold showers for the first two days before the water became warmish. Lucky us, the sun was heating up nicely during day time. We found a hike trail nearby and girls liked it a lot since we could play with them during the walk and "at home"!

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First time we saw an almond tree and picked some (plenty) - they are were delicious and by no means comparable to what we have bought in a shop in e.g. Finland or Germany.</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    I noted already earlier that the rear of the GS looked very dirty - full
    of oil spots. I checked it out and noticed that I filled a little too
    much oil into the engine (did not want to throw some extra away) which
    then spilled over into the air inlet housing. Of course, I said to
    myself that this was a stupid thing to do and took a mental note on that
    issue.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way to Nerja we found some great facilities along the road... :D </td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding through Sierra Nevada</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    Next stop was Nerja and back in city limits. We got lucky again with the apartment - it had a south-side balcony. Plenty of sun bathing for Milady.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking at the promenade in Nerja</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Appears obvious who comes to live here and yes... we heard Finnish the day we arrived, what a shock!</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parking under the balcony and bikes in sight</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    On the way to Nerja I suddenly knew it was not the engine oil which caused this mess - my brand new shock was leaking its oil! WTF*!!!

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broken rear shock in the BMW</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    OH NO - the whole bike was wobbling and rocking. I needed to drive half of the way extremely carefully like a typical 80 year old Sunday driver. It was weekend and a holy one: Spain was closed from Friday to Monday (we learned that when Sunday is a holiday, the following Monday is a holiday too). The only thing we could do now was to wait and get all this sorted out when we were in Tarifa. Until then some more of the slow riding and only major highways and no more small and curvy roads. Anyway we made all the major orders of items so that they would come in time during our stay in Tarifa.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">500l and get a free meal - I prefer 25l and a free beer ;)</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    And then we hit rock-bottom...:huh

    It started with the fact that the flat was a rathole. Yeah it looked ok in pics and sounded ok when we booked. Reality was really different. The series of disappointments started with the fact that the office was closed for winter (and not open every day as stated on their door) and you need to call someone for the keys. There was no internet in the apartment, it was freezing cold, no way a mail man would find us here, toilet dirt water was flooding and many other small things did not work either. It became a major and expensive issue now that I needed to call some office in Malaga all the time for fixing things. The ultimate turn-off was that the stove did not work and my master cook could not use it.

    All our plans for ordering stuff and getting it to Tarifa got destroyed. We realized then, that we would not get the Carnets done during our stay in Tarifa neither the international driving permits. The tyre delivery company demanded from me that I show a bill with the delivery address to proof my identity (passport was not good enough).

    We were really down, depressed and Skippy was almost crying.

    During our stay at the previous place we searched what happycow.net has to offer in Tarifa and found the Eco-center. First of all they had good food as well as free and fast WiFi. We became regular customers there :D

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eco-Center in Tarifa with a shop, restaurant and free Wifi</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vegan humus as a starter</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vegan Paella - this was delicious and filling</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    We drowned our problems in some excellent tasting Muscatel wine (17%) :freaky, some more unhealthy food and watching movies from our laptop. Some orders were confirmed and others were pending, open issues on the both bikes, the flat in its current state and the idea to be Christmas in Morocco: many moving parts and how to make a decision.

    Something needed to happen and the question was what? :deal

    ~ Wolfi

    *WTF = What The Fruit (learned from the Banana Girl)
  15. Sunday Rider

    Sunday Rider Adventurer Wanabe

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,316
    Location:
    North of T.Ho., Ontario
    Wow, such beautiful pictures, such a rotten ending on many fronts, but you kept positive and drowning your temporary set back with some good food and wine. Hope you can get things rolling your way again soon. What The Fruiting indeed (well doesn't have the same impact as the real saying).:D
  16. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    879
    Location:
    Earth
    We were in Tarifa and felt pretty miserable. It seemed that our to-do list was too long especially compared to the unavailability of internet and the flat as such. We discussed and prioritized based on what we want (or better said what we and the bikes really need), where we have some other solutions, how much those cost etc.

    Christmas in Morocco was a clear yes, which meant we kept the ferry tickets and leave Spain as planned. We were able to cancel all orders which we made to the apartment in Tarifa and so we booked us another hotel in Manilva (and hope we get some refund from the Tarifa flat).

    On the way to Manilva we found a Honda bike shop and I could persuade Paqui (who is originally from Germany) to get us our beloved Heidenau tyres. The BMW dealer opposite did not care very much to start searching for them. YSS did send me a basic rear shock which I will keep as a spare for future (thank you very much for this Christmas present). The broken shock went back to Netherlands for repair. The repaired one will come back to me somewhere in Morocco and so will our CdPs and IDPs (hopefully).

    The discussions about the Carnets with ADAC did continue until the last minute in Manilva. All in all it took now two weeks to clarify one single detail and in the end we found a solution for this problem.

    We rode to Manilva with the hopes that the new apartment will be better. Obviously I looked a bit worn out and the lady at the reception had mercy. The dogs did cost extra, however we got a huge discount and on top of that we were able to park the bikes in the underground parking for free. That was very nice and a good start. The flat was almost luxury for us and for the first time in months we enjoyed a Finnish sauna (dry, but hot) and a whirlpool!

    Milady was extremely happy. My mood was also getting better and I had a few hassle-free days. So on our second day in Manilva we had a pre-Christmas party and enjoyed plenty of delicious raw food goodies, that Skippy had been wanting to experiment for a long time! Girls got also their beloved porridge every day, now that we finally had a working stove!

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We named this street "kakkakuja" (poop-alley) - there was poop everywhere! :)</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the end of "kakkakuja" there was a beautiful park where we played a lot with girls.</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reminded us of our old neighborhood in Sundsberg, Masala, Finland (www.sundsberg.fi).</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Couch with a view :D</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Play of sun and clouds.</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A two-lane highway in the middle of nowhere - one end a round-about and at the other end solid rocks :D </td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heidenau K60 after 27.000km as a front tyre (maybe still good for a few thousands?).</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting for the tyre and cleaning my air filter.</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    I got me also a new backtyre. The Uniroyal did not last too long, now I am trying a Bridgestone BT250 (175/65R15). After almost 23.000km Skippy's Suzi got also a new backtyre - again a Heidenau K60. The old one would have still lasted a few thousands, however the big puncture from Latvia caused the tyre to leak air and we thought it is time to change it now. I also changed Suzi's air-filter to a K&N re-usable. These are the moments which I do not like! Taking all the plastic parts away and putting them back takes over one hour, changing the air-filter only takes 5 minutes!

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying some last European unhealthy goodies before Africa :)</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We wanted to downsize a bit and donated some not so needed stuff to the Adana dog rescue shelter and second-hand shop (www.adana.es).</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our track from Europe - looks funny :D</td></tr> </tbody></table>
    Besides all the bike maintenance, it was also time again to take care of ourselves and girls. I went to the dentist in Sabinillas for a check-up. Valeria - the doctor - had a quick look and did not find anything which would require further action. Good for me and it got even better - she did not charge me anything!

    Girls got also their teeth checked and cleaned. This we try to do about once a year, because poodles tend to get easily teeth problems. We have brushed their teeth with "normal" toothpaste meant for dogs, but it didn't work at all. So now we're using a new mixture made by Skippy: bentonite clay and Neem tree powder. Both are natural, healthy, vegan and cruelty free products and also recommended for both human and animal healthcare. We use the same mixture with some added ingredients to brush our teeth and can warmly recommend it to everyone!!!

    While girls got their teeth cleaned they got also tested for heartworms, Lyme disease and ehrlichiosis. All results were negative and then girls got vaccinated against heartworm, which are really creepy and dangerous parasites! We also gave them some medicine against Echinococcus and each received a health certificate which is required to enter Morocco. The decision on how to prevent Leishmania is still open... The doctor gave us Advantix drops, but the ingredients and the risks of the medicine sounded really horrible! It's a nasty pesticide!!! Scalibor-collars would be also one option, but back in Finland doctor said it shouldn't be used for under 5 kg dogs, so that would basically exclude Lyra and Ulpu.... Have to continue the study on these matters and hopefully find some more natural stuff... Luckily it's not mosquito season here right now!

    Farewell to Europe

    Looking a little back on those first seven months on the road. I would say that it was rather brave from us to start this journey with a newly built sidecar. In this way, it was good to get things fixed here in Europe (and within EU) as it was one of our original ideas why to ride first around in Europe before going to exotic places. We only got a snap-shot to see of all the beauty Europe has to offer. We said "no" to many places and attractions because we really wanted to go to Africa. Our most favorite places were (1) Croatia and especially the Plitvice Lakes (2) Pyrenees and (3) Alps.

    Things work in Europe. We noted that they work better in Germany (we do not count Finland, otherwise Finland would "win" this section :)) and less in Spain.

    Taking the dogs along with us was a conscious decision and no way we would have left them behind. We were aware that we had to pay a little extra once in a while (we just did not like to get ripped-off!), as well as that there are people in this world who do not like dogs or are afraid of them. In any case, we made experiences which we would have never had without our girls!

    ~ Wolfi
  17. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    879
    Location:
    Earth
    We decided some time ago, that we would set over to Africa from Spain by ferry. Generally our aim is to have as short boat ride as possible since (a) this is no pleasure for girls and (b) I get very quickly sea-sick.


    We found the following options (one-way):
    Tarifa-Tanger - only by FRS
    Algericas - Ceuta - by FRS, Balearia and Trasmediterranea
    Algericas - Tangermed (at least FRS, but we did not look into this since this was the longest ferry ride with 1.5h)


    All options were around 60-65EUR per person incl. motorbike (at least solo). The big difference came in the handling of dogs and travel time. We decided to go from Tarifa to Tanger with FRS, because:
    - the ferry was a fast ferry and travel time is only 35min (I saw later that Algericas - Ceuta also needs only 35min)
    - dogs were for free (other carriers charge 10EUR/dog)
    - dogs could be in sidecar during the journey without any extra box
    - sidecar was free of surcharge


    FRS had a friendly and prompt reservation service. We did all the Q&A via email.


    The check-in was not as organized as I am used to when compared traveling by ferry between Finland-Sweden, Finland-Germany or Finland-Estonia (Wolfi, come on and get real, you are in Spain... ok check-in was perfect). In any case, we got on to the ship. The solobike was put on mainstand and strapped with one belt over the seat which was fixed to the trailer of the neighbor car.


    While waiting for embarkation, we filled in the white immigration papers which we received at the check-in. The immigration formalities are handled by a guy sitting in a corner besides the cafe bar. Be quick - the queue became pretty long!


    As soon as we left the ship, all sorts of people came to us to give advice. My recommendation: drive to the (anyway closed) gate as much as you can into first position. On the way there, pick up your green and white paper for your vehicle declaration. I was not able to shake of the touts, they literally took those papers out of my hands. They then asked for passport as well as bike papers. I gave all the stuff to them and the guy disappeared giving those to some other tout. I found the new guy and we filled the papers together. It was maybe too demanding that a German has a bike from Finland! Anyway, he demanded tip and I gave him 5EUR which was obviously ok.


    After a few minutes I got the passports and the bike papers back from the first tout and he explained me something that the bikes are now in the system. Furthermore he told me to go upstairs to some immigration office since this was our first visit to Morocco. He also wanted money. I told him that I already paid and looked where this "upstairs office" was.


    I did not find this "upstairs" and so I went to the customs office, asked and somebody was so kind and showed me the way where I needed to go (did not understand what they told me in French). This guy had to open the locked gate, we left the customs area in order to get upstairs. There - in an almost hidden place - was sitting another official who typed our passport data into a computer. OK, 5 minutes later it was done, that was all and have a nice day.


    A little confused now, I went downstairs and decided it is time to enter Morocco and ride through the now-halfway-open gate. I started my engine and obviously energized by the great sound, the first tout jumped to me and asked if I have my stamped green/white papers and since I declined, he jumped to the real officials, got our papers, gave those to us and the other officials at the gate a thumb-up and we were good to go.


    And then we were in Morocco. Piece of cake.

    [​IMG]
    On the left is the real border guard, on the right is the tout :)


    ~ Wolfi


    p.s. nobody looked at our dogs. No interest to check anything whatsoever!
  18. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,753
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    I'm in for the ride. Just found your report this morning and finished 8 pages with two coffee. Made my morning a pleasant one. :thumb

    I'm in for the ride from now on. Just had a look at your map and you won't be going through coast of NC? If for any reason you change your mind/plan, let me know. I have a beach property in Topsail Island but they fill up quick with family and friends wanting to use them. Or a campground if you don't mind primitive camping with some shelter and hot shower.

    Good luck and have a safe voyage!
  19. kuhjunge

    kuhjunge 3wheel enthusiast

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    879
    Location:
    Earth
    We are always pleased to read that somebody enjoys what we write :D

    and thanks a lot for the invitation. I assume NC = North Carolina? Our route through the US is drawn in 5minutes time so we are not really sure where we will go :deal
    Lets see where the road spirits take us...:kumbaya
  20. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,753
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    Apology but yes you are correct, North Carolina. :D