Scotland for the Brave.

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Frey Bentos, Apr 25, 2010.

  1. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
    It was taking ages to get around the "wee loop" I had set out to do this morning. I was constantly changing my plans as to where I could go in the time I had left. It would have been nice to get to the top of the country. I had half hoped that I could get me nose back to Durness. But as today was Wedensday and I had to be at the ferry on Friday at 1.30 I knew that I really had gone as far North as I could.

    I stopped to have a look at the map. I decided to head back to The Kyle of Lochalsh and then head North on the A890 a wee back road. This would take in the Applecross Pass and then I could head down in an Invernessy direction. That settled I got back on the road

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    Here's me, sexing up a gate. Look at me! I am awesome!!
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    As with 99% of all the roads in these parts, the road off Skye was sublime. The "wee loop" I had set out to do this morning was around 150 miles.
    It was lovely but I felt the need to get me head down and do some more miles. I just didn't have the time to slow tour. Something that would have been lovey seeing as the weather and scenery but you cant stop at every wee place you see I suppose.

    I hooked up onto The A 896 for Shieldaig and immediately knew that In was in for a real treat. I hadn't gone far when I came around a bend and was struck with the most amazing scene I had witnessed since I arrived in Scotland.

    It wasn't a view with sweeping panoramic vistas of far away mountains or anything as grand as that. By the side of this wee road, leading to God knows where was a small lough. There were Pine trees and reeds and dragon flies and flowers and sunlight dancing on mirrored waters. Words and pictures just cannot convey the beauty of this place.
    I just had to stop and stand and stare in stupefied wonder. I don't think I have ever been as purely happy and contented anywhere else.

    When I die I want to haunt this tiny little oasis.

    And just to underline how awesome this spot was, as I got the video camera out, I was given a fly by from a fighter plane. In the words of Kung Foo Panda, " Awesome."

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    I could have sat here all day. But the road was calling me And so I headed off vowing to get back sometime again. I saved the location in the GPS and rode on. I followed the road as it dipped and twisted and turned. The day was getting hot and there was a deep blue sky. It was one of those times when you forget any kind of life outside of the here and now. For me, all that there was there and then was the bike, the road and destinations unknown. It is a truly joyous thing to be sitting on a motorcycle, far away from home and everybody who knows you, seeing a road that you have never saw before. I really was whistling a happy tune by the time I saw the sign for Applecross.

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    #41
  2. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
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    The road for the Applecross pass is just amazing. Narrow, twisty and offers some breathtaking views of the country. I wont bore you with more video because I have another hour of it and quite frankly, it all looks the same..

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    Whilst I was taking these shots a camper van was winching it's way up the road. I took my time with the camera and after ten minutes or so was ready to hit the road again. I could still see the camper, waaaay off in the distance, climbing slowly. So I took my time but eventually I came up behind it just as we reached a really interesting series of switch backs and hairpins.

    I was on his tail, pulled over so that I could see the driver in his rear view mirror. And the bastard could see me because I saw him looking. There were a couple of passing places that he had to pull into to let oncoming cars pass by. But before I could nip past, he had swung out again and was filling the road with his shit box caravan.

    This went on for quite awhile, I was starting to loose my holiday mojo with the cunt. He was obviously blocking me passing him. Then there was a slightly wider part of the road and a passing place. I dropped a cog and nailed it past him, slowing as I leveled with his window. With the aid of gestures and foul language, I indicated that he was a short sighted person, born out of wedlock and that he was prone to self abuse, before I left him in a cloud of expletives and regained my composure as I got back to the job in hand of chilling out and enjoying the road.

    Another few miles and I had reached the top. There was a short downhill set of twisties and a blind left hand corner. As I came round this there a car stopped in the road and in front of him, a digger and a lorry. They were working on the road and all traffic was blocked. Opposite the car, there was a lay-by. I pulled over to it and stopped the bike. I looked around and seeing that it was a blind bend and that any traffic coming down the hill would be into the stationary car before they knew it, kept an eye up the road for safety's sake.

    The workmen were in no hurry. Cars were stopped on the other side of the work and then, low and behold, what should wobble into view at the top of the hill..........................?

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    Matey boy came into view and came on down the hill. I was off the bike already at this stage and standing taking photos. I knew that this prick was going to hit the parked car and done the only decent thing I could. I started to flag him down.

    I laughed to myself when I saw his reaction. He obviously couldn't see the reason why I was doing this and just saw me trying to stop him. His mouth dropped open I would swear that he went white. I watched him as he didn't know what to do but advance on me slowly. As he came around the bend the relief on his face was a picture when he realised that I wasn't stopping him to give him a Chinese burn and dead arm. He sort of gave me a half nod and a thanks wave. I ignored him and John Wayned back to me bike.

    By the time the digger had filled the lorry there was a size able Que in both directions. I jumped ahead of every body and had soon the road to myself again.
    #42
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  3. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
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    #43
  4. obsidian

    obsidian Scared of the dark..

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2007
    Oddometer:
    837
    Location:
    Currently in Canada.
    Loving this report, the words, pics, and video are top notch! :thumb
    #44
  5. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
    Just a couple of wee movies of the road.

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    It was really beautiful day and just an absolutely sublime journey. The hardest part was keeping going because it would have been too easy to stop the bike, get off, throw my helmet into the heather and just stand and stare.
    #45
  6. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
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    It was with some sadness that I came off this road and ended up on a more major road. But I had to start to think about the evenings accommodation and earlier looks at the map suggested a place called Contin. I twas near enough Inverness for the next morning but looked to be well out of the way for peace and quiet.

    I hit the town/village at near enough 5.30 and started to scope out a few B&B's. They seemed to thin on the ground but I had passed a hotel as I came into the place and went back for a second look.
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    What interested me most about the place was that there was a restaurant attached. Because of the interrupted sleep of the night before, I was feeling a tad fooked by now and didn't want to have to go out on the bike in the evening looking for spuds. So I pulled in and asked about a room.

    £75.00 was a bit steep for B&B but I thought fuck it. And signed up. The old bird behind the desk was a chatty old yoke and we got to talking about where I had been and stayed. Last night came up in the conversation and she started to laugh.
    She said that this place had been a drovers inn since it was built in the 1700's. And that there was a ghost here too. Fucking Cosmic. But she said that it was a very friendly, warm feeling that was in the place and that in all the years that she had been there there had only ever been one adverse reaction to it. And that a young guy from New Zealand had been in hysterics one night.

    Oh well. I was tired and in real need of dropping one off for the baby jesus so I shrugged , smiled and took the key to my room. I should have been more worried about the fucking curtains to be honest.
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    The one major problem with this place was that it was on a really nice corner. And as I sat in my pants, drinking tea there was an endless stream of bikes going past and I was getting whip lash running to the window and looking out. <!--IBF.ATTACHMENT_217639-->
    #46
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  7. muskeg

    muskeg Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    308
    Location:
    Coconino N.F.
    :thumbup
    #47
  8. prsdrat

    prsdrat Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    895
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    Thank Gawd for the highlands of everywhere. Places we won't have to
    worry about we softies of the world overpopulating and screwing up.
    I'll lift one to ya' and with ya' if ever we have the chance.
    #48
  9. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
    It was a strange place. The people who ran it were an funny couple. She wore too much make up and he wore comedy chef trousers. There seemed to be a load of strange people staying in it as well. An old pair of crusty fruits were at one table. One was wearing plus fours and tweed, the other a grumpy old fucker in a pink pringle sweater. Another couple of older people and a really annoying stuffy prick who talked in a loud monotonous voice about his work as a maths teacher. Riveting stuff.
    The dinner was okay rump steak with a creamy sauce of ejaculate by the looks of things. Anyways, I beat it into me and then a pudding. There was another old couple across the way and we had been talking through out the meal, mainly to try and drown out the monotoned drivel that teacher was spouting. They asked me if I was the bike that had passed them on the applecross pass. They thought i was because it was apparently my helmet that they recognised.
    It's a small world but i wouldn't like to paint it.

    Anyhow, it was a nice night and i had a smoke outside and then went to me bed. If there was a ghost I didn't hear it. I went into a coma and I think that if he had come into the room and started a chainsaw I would have slept on.

    Mind you, there seemed to be a bit of ectoplasm on the sheets the next day....

    Got up, had shite, had breakfast, had nother shite, packed up boxes ,got bike ready, nipped back up to room had a little crockle of a shite and then hit the road..
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    It was with a heavy heart that I started todays traveling. I was heading back down again towards, ultimately sometime tomorrow, Cairnryan. But I bucked meself up somewhat with the thought that I had anotherr full days rideing to do to get there.

    I was heading for Loch Ness and Glencoe and then see how far I could get for a B&B tonight. I didn't want to go through Inverness so instead headed on a wee back road for Muir of Ord. Which amused me some what as it reminded Me of Odd World.

    The landscape was loverly to a country boy like me. Coming from a small farm in the West of Ireland, any field that takes you more than 1 minute to walk across is mind blowing. Here I was surrounded by rolling hills of recently harvested crops. There were a few Combines parked up and I drooled over them. (Any members able to get me a go on one will be remembered in My will).
    Fields of round bales surrounded me as I cut a swath through the twisty track heading for the tourist fodder of the Great Lock.

    I came down through Drumnadrochit and onto the A82. The road that runs along the North shore of Loch Ness. I didn't stop for pics as I have before, instead reveling in the suprisingly emptyish road and grippy tarmac.

    First stop was Fort Augustus. The place was heaving with visitors. I stopped for petrol and was served by a Polish lassy with the longest legs I have ever seen. Fuck me, I wasn't right for the rest of the day. I hooked up a wee back road for a nosy and came round again in time to see the swing bridge closing.

    <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/FP64aGGjkj0&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/FP64aGGjkj0&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

    I then headed on for Fort William. I was making good progress when I came to the tail end of a serious traffic line. It was trundling on at 30 or so and I couldn't see what was at the front of it as it snaked off into the distance round all the bends. There were fucking tons of cars, a few coaches and a line of timber lorries stuck in the mix. So I set to work getting past them. The road is that bendy, the on coming traffic so heavy that it took me the best part of, fuck knows how long to make any progress. On the way we passed an accident. There was an ambulance and a cop car and a bike stuck in the ditch. Hope the bod is okay.

    Anyway, I passed more and more traffic and guess what was at the front of the fucking Que? Yarp. I have gone right off camper vans. There was a fucking retarded arsehole, swaying away at 35, oblivious to the chaos he was causing behind him. I passed him slowly, made a point of riding alongside him and pointing at his mirrors. He had a dreamy smile on his gimp like face as he took in the views. Jesus, what a cunt. All he had to do was pull in for 10 minutes, look at the mountains and let other people pass. But no, not this fucking cock wart.

    We should be allowed to carry guns.........

    Anyway, on into Fort William and as a spur of the moment thing, I took a detour up a wee side road signed Glen Nevis. Me and my whaife had been here a few years ago and went up here to a restaurant. It had been pitch black night and I had often wondered what was further up the road. It showed up on the GPS as a dead end some 5 miles or so. Curiosity and all that...
    #49
  10. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
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    This wee road is a fucking beaut. A fully loaded GS getting air at 35. It's like someone put down a go cart track directly over the landscape. I have never been on 5 miles like it. Shouda put the video camera on but didn't think of it in time. At the end of this there is a sort of coach park and a lot of bods walking about. Saw a few out door types leaping off a bridge and got a flash of a pair of eighteen year old titties as the owner was changing out of her wet suit in the car park. I knew sitting in the bushes for an hour would pay off. Anyway,

    What I was actually doing was not getting on with the trip home wards. So I headed on through Glen Coe and oohed and Aahed at the scenery like every body else does.

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    I kept me head down and made some time up. The A82 runs down the side of Loch Lomond And is pretty fucking nice. But even on here, the blight of the fuck witted camper van struck and I found myself yet again fighting to get past half a mile of traffic backed up behind a rubber necking twat.

    I was heading back towards Dunoon and the ferry to Gurrock. The road runs beside a loch here and I can't for the life of me find it's name on the map.

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    At times the sun was out and the waters were so still, it looked like I was up on a mountain road and if I had gone over the edge, I would have been falling for ever, and not immediately up to my nipples in ice cold water.

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    I wanted to make it back to Largs for the last night. I didn't want to have a big mad rush for the boat. So I got the ferry back over, vowing to be back as soon as I coukld and with more than five days to waste and then made for Largs.

    It didn't take too long and I got a rather nice B&B as I was coming into the town from this direction. It was a tad busy in the decor but I was pooped and needed a shower and a power nap.

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    All you need for the real experience is the overpowering smell of pou pouri. But the place was warm, spotless and £35.00. Splendid.

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    #50
  11. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
    I took the bike into town that evening in search of Italian. I went straight to Nardini's where I had a slap up meal. Spicy meat balls followed by chicken something in a something sauce. I staggered out an hour later, holding my considerable belly and then took a leisurely spin around the town. I wass well tired by the time I got back to bed and farted my way through the night.

    It's something like 60 miles or so back to the ferry and I was up at a leisurely time. I headed up a wee back road towards Beithy and Stewarton, mainly because I wanted to see what was up the road. The A1733 is a nice bit of tarmac, but all too soon I was headed back onto the main drag towards Cairnryan.
    The fun stopped here. I got signed into the port and after awhile the ferry hoved into view.

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    #51
    joenuclear likes this.
  12. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
    [​IMG]
    It'll never fly......

    I was the only bike on board again which was strange. The sailing was pretty smooth and I was back in Larne two hours later.


    Two hours after that and I was rolling onto my front street. To the loving embrace of my wife. Who was expecting a set of full balls. Ooops.

    So 5 days, 1200 odd miles, 1 ghost, several relaxes, a mountain of good food, no rain to speak off and a fucking bucketful of good memories. Scotland really is a place that everybody should visit. The people are great and they sometimes speak recognisable English.

    To bastardise a lyric by Mike Scott of The Waterboys, "Ireland is my heart, Scotland is my dreaming head...........
    #52
  13. Digger Deep

    Digger Deep Keep 'er Lit

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2008
    Oddometer:
    206
    Location:
    in an ever deepening hole...........
    Great report mate. Sometimes I skip most of the text and just look at the pics but not this one.
    #53
    Frey Bentos likes this.
  14. krian

    krian Rider

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    92
    Location:
    Austria, Waidhofen an der Ybbs
    Agreed :D! I was really laughing out loud when I read your text! Thanks a lot for this. And your pictures are great too.

    I loved the scene with you and the spider in the room. Maybe the ghost was the dead spider taking revenge... as it was such a huuuuuge and hairy one.

    Best wishes,
    Karin
    #54
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  15. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
    Thanks Guys. I enjoyed writing it.
    @ Krian, the only good spider is a dead one. Good job I don't live in a really old house with buggers big enough to shift the furniture around.:huh

    And where is your report of your Ireland trip by the way. I was really looking forward to it!
    #55
  16. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
    .
    #56
  17. joenuclear

    joenuclear Still here....

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    10,644
    Location:
    Arkansas near Oklahoma
    ?
    #57
  18. Frey Bentos

    Frey Bentos Probably doing a drawing. Or scratching my arse.

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    995
    Location:
    Fermanagh. Ireland
    uh huh.
    #58
  19. mac66

    mac66 Quasi Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2002
    Oddometer:
    305
    Thanks for the preview. I am flying to Edinborough on Sunday and then onward and upward touring the country for a week.
    #59
  20. SMURPH

    SMURPH Longtimer

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2006
    Oddometer:
    480
    Location:
    Western Canada
    Great RR. We were there about a month ago and were going to stay at that same b&b - but they just gave away the last room. So we drove back and stayed at the Kilcamb lodge. Then had to go back that same road the next day to catch the ferry. Unfortunately we weren't on bikes... next time :).

    edit - just looking at some of the other videos you posted. We were on some of the exact same roads. The single lane with pull outs is so addicting. Driving a 2010 Passat TDI 6 speed was pretty wild too. I miss that car. Bike would be amazing too.

    And I see you don't live far from Sligo, Ireland. My family is in Manorhamilton - where we were before Scotland. Small world :)
    #60
    Frey Bentos likes this.