Servicing the LC4 chassis swingarm suspension link

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by creeper, May 17, 2005.

  1. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    :nod
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  2. fire_strom

    fire_strom Long timer

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    this is an old thread but im am greasy with it right now. who has a good listing of all the frickin torque values for these bikes. i've got a torque wrench but my manual does not cover the, special consumers shouldn't care, values like the fittings in the prolever. help
    scott
    #22
  3. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    I am not sure if this will work, and perhaps you have already checked this... but I get most of my torque values from the manual's 'general torque values section'. In order to use them you have to know what is the rating (i.e. M8, M10) of the bolt/nut you are torquing; look that up in the parts diagrams. Then the manual has the torque values for that type of hardware specified.

    Again, I haven't dealt with this so perhaps you have checked this and the hardware is not listed... best of luck.
    #23
  4. fire_strom

    fire_strom Long timer

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    that tends to narrow it down but not all the way in all cases.
    scott
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  5. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Bummer! I guess KTM didn't think us mere mortals would touch the innards of those bits.

    One thing that might have it; I heard tell there is a shop manual for the chassis of our bikes. But I have never seen it... I have the motor shop manual, and the owner's manual/parts fiches, WP manuals - that's all folks.

    Anyone ever heard of a chassis shop manual for the LC4? Anyone got one to 'loan' out? :evil
    #25
  6. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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  7. fire_strom

    fire_strom Long timer

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    even with one arm creeper has a hand to lend. thanks for posting that it will help a lot. my manual has 1/2 of the info that chart has. here's mine:

    [​IMG]

    scott
    #27
  8. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Yours is a 99 - does it matter that creeper's chart is from an 03? Shouldn't since the fastener type are listed. Bummer that your chart is, or was, incomplete.
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  9. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    2003 LC4E and Adventure owners manuals coming in an e-mail Scott... I think.
    There have been 3 Scotts PM'ing and e-mailing me today for assorted manuals... I am totally fuckin' lost as to who is who at this moment. :huh

    C
    #29
  10. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    Thats all I got in the way of manuals for the LC4. I have 2001 thru 2003 chassis and engine parts books, but no earlier owners.
    #30
  11. ChrisC

    ChrisC Amal sex?

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    Cease and desist order is in the mail...... :clap
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  12. fire_strom

    fire_strom Long timer

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    creep i saved the one you posted to my hd so i will have it for ever. what's up w/ needy scotts. sorry on behalf of all of them.

    so the real question underlying all this is why do i have play in my rear end. now i know there is a danger of misinterpretation here butt bare w/ me now. i was putting on the new shoes (d908rr's) when i noticed that there was a bit of free play in backside of my ride. a few mm's, not sure but i don't think it was there before. i grab the rear shock and give it a bit of of twist. it spins a few degrees. am i out of spec or is there some play in all your LC4 rear ends.
    scott
    my wife is currently at the movie theater watching brokeback mountain but that has nothing to do with this.
    scott
    #32
  13. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    All LC4 owners... and their rearends have some axial play in the shock, and a bit of freeplay in the swingarm from full extension to the begining of shock compression.

    Well... except for ChrisC, who frequently complains of too much play in his rearend. Time in prison poorly spent, I guess. :dunno
    #33
  14. potatoho

    potatoho Cheese and Rice!

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    What, did someone say 1999. Yeah some torques are different. The c/s etc. Lemme check.

    LOL back in 1999 we had the right side up forks, so the triple tee torques are opposite. Already pointed out by firestrom.

    Clamping bolt upper triple clamp 15Nm
    Clamping bolt lower triple clamp 20Nm

    We also had crappy 8.8 quality c/s sprocket bolt. 40Nm. I guess you could buy the later year 10.9 and do 60Nm.
    #34
  15. WR_guy

    WR_guy Been here awhile

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    I try to buy and extra swingarm and linkage for every bike I own. I service one and keep it on the shelf. Every 6 months I swap it on the bike and repeat. keeps the downtime low when you find out one of the bearings is bad.
    #35
  16. fire_strom

    fire_strom Long timer

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    i though of doing that a little while back when i saw one on ebay. i don't remember what it went for but it wasnt to bad. it's a good idea. two or more bikes would be better though.
    scott
    #36
  17. ChrisC

    ChrisC Amal sex?

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    Yes, I admit it.... my ass got loose :cry

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  18. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Ah, it was the day before Christmas and not a sound could be heard except for the occasional screaming from the garage ......

    This bolt wasn't easy to get off. Left side nut doesn't thread back on wthout effort and I can't get the right side nut off at all. Looks like either the left nut or the left side bolt threads are deformed. I'm guessing this got messed up when the previous owner installed the EMGO lowering links. Sigh.

    I don't see abnormal wear on the bolt shaft but there is close to zero grease on the two bearings (#50) pressed into the frame. Not sure if I should replace. Pressing new bearings into this location will be fun. Also what is the procedure for retorquing the special bolt? I'm guessing ignore the 6mm hex end, hold the left side with a 18mm wrench and use an extension thru the right frame hole (fitting 18mm socket over the 6mm hex).

    These were a total pain to remove. I'm not seeing how the vice works here as the Prolever bushings (unlike the buckets where the vice works well) don't protrude out very far. In the end I got them out with a punch but it required way more than tapping and they require either replacement or a lot of work to debur the damage from the punch. No sign of them having corroded onto the bearing, just tightly pressed in.

    At least one of the seals has failed. I'm used to doing this on my KDX where the seals can easily be removed/reused. What is the process here? They seem to be some form of press fit? Can they be removed with a seal puller? Reused?

    As for the prolever/shock bearing itself, pretty dirty but seems to move ok. There is a lot of lateral movement in the bearing but I'm thinking this part of the design? Unsure how to determine when this needs replacement.

    Plenty of grease on the two linkage bearing sleeves (yay) but a weird nick on one of them where the middle linkage, left side bearing runs. Nothing caused by wear I think, looks like it was dropped and damaged. Great :( Otherwise just the usual faint wear discoloration from the bearing contact on the sleeve.

    What chemicals are good here (won't damage the seals)? Kerosene? I'm guessing removing/reinstalling the seal isn't going to be possible.

    Still havn't got onto looking at the swingarm, above is just the linkage.

    Tony
    #38
  19. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    Bummer. :cry

    Use the bolt to draw the new bearings into the frame... or a piece of thread-all with some nuts and washers. Yep.

    PITA any way you do it.

    Not unless you are really careful about taking little bites... and get really lucky. :lol3

    When in doubt, throw it out.

    PO was a bit of a brute huh?

    Beleive it or not... WD40 works good to flush out the old grease without damaging the seals.

    Merry Christmas!
    #39
  20. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Thats no worry, I know how to drive in new bearings, usually use a length of threaded rod, washers, sockets etc to pull them in.

    The question was on how to retorque it (as there isn't much room). Somehow the PO messed this part up badly and deformed it. Obvious seems to be hold the left nut with a 18mm combination and use a 18mm socket on the right (ignoring the 6mm square end) and an extension thru the frame hole for the torque wrench. Of course since you can do this, I'm wondering what the point of the 6mm square end on the right side is in the first place. Odd.

    I'd like to avoid replacing that prolink bearing, it's $50+. Thanks for the WD40 tip, I'll do that and then pop it by the dealer. The mechanic at KTM Northwest (Gresham KTM) seems pretty knowledgable, I'm sure he can tell me if it needs replacing.

    It's a bummer on those prolink bushings, I wonder if some anti-seize on reinstall might make it easier. If they need to be replaced every time I disassemble to relube, that'll get old real fast.

    No clue on the PO, always the joy of owning a used bike :evil
    #40