Servicing the LC4 chassis swingarm suspension link

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by creeper, May 17, 2005.

  1. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    It's there because if, when you loosen things up, one nut cracks loose and not the other, you need something to hold on to to crack the other loose.

    I have yet to discover a good answer to the Pro Link bearing myself... still looking for a air-powered grease gun with enough poop to overcome all KTM engineered obstacles.

    C
    #41
  2. Surlyguy

    Surlyguy Guest

    All was going well on my dissassembly until I hit these bushings (literally :wink: ). No way, no how can I get these out.
    I wasn't even drinking which may or may not have hindered my effort.
    Oh well at least carrying the linkage to the shop is easier than the whole bike.

    One summer of use. The other two roller bearings are in need of new grease but not destroyed yet. Will tackle swingarm this weekend. Will try beer or possibly G&T's as a brain lubricant for the next part.
    #42
  3. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Don't forget to price the whole assembly (new and assembled in the fatherland) before accepting a repair tab from a shop. As I recall the whole assembly was rather reasonable considering... maybe just order the assembly and grease it well before installation?

    EDIT: here is a quote for the 2003 model year:

    #1
    Item #: 58303080244
    ROCKER ARM CPL. FORGED LC4 '99
    Quanity On Diagram: 1
    Cost Each: $189.37

    Not bad considering the number of parts and the trouble involved. I am not usually a proponent of this line of logic (back in the day I liked my '65 F100 mechanic who filed the points during tune ups :wink:), but there are an arse-load of parts in that assembly.
    #43
  4. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Regarding the Zerk grease fitting on the Prolink bearing. If you had a brand new linkage -- no crap inside but presumably still in need of extra grease) -- would this still require a high-pressure grease gun? Is the bearing always correctly aligned to allow this?

    I pulled the zerk fitting off my linkage and was expecting to see directly into the bearing (aka could see things move when I turned the inner race) but what I saw was metal with 3 small holes on the outer at 2pm, 6pm and 10pm. Not sure if this is normal (hence the need for the high-pressure gun) or a result of the bearing not being lined up correctly, Creeper mentions realigning it when he pressed in a new one.

    I'm just thinking of when I have to regrease this sucker, clearly the bushings are an issue.
    #44
  5. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Has anyone noticed that there is a hairline crack thru the outer race of the Prolink bearing. Interesting. I was about to put my new one in and noticed it. Noticed same crack on the one I pressed out. Went to the dealer, new bearing in hand and all the others they had were the same. I'm guessing some side-effect of the manufacturing process.
    #45
  6. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    It closes up with the press fit. Freaky to see I know... but that's how they are designed.
    #46
  7. dwayne

    dwayne Silly Adventurer Supporter

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    Hey Blair...guess what I bought!

    Anybody tried to find an alternate source for those prolink bearings?
    #47
  8. boyscout

    boyscout sittin' down

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    Just got my swingarm and prolink back from getting serviced. Yep.. I chickened out and paid a pro to do the job. Cost me right around $40 bucks which seems like money well spent since I figure I would most likely have destroyed at least a couple seals had I tried to do this myself.
    #48
  9. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    I've been on a few rides since I replaced my ProLink and since it was a medium-PITA and I don't want to do it again anytime soon I promised myself I'd stay on top of keeping it greased.

    I purchased a compressed-air grease gun. Harbor Freight, usual story, 1st one doesn't work, so I have to go back. I wonder what their return rate actually is? Decided to pay another $8 and upgraded to the professional model which was a sound idea as the base one was their usual crapola.

    Wasn't having much success, just lots of grease escaping between the grease fitting at the end of the gun and the ProLink zerk. I now have a large plastic tub full of it that I can use for greasing axles and the like :D. Tried manual grease gun, didn't do much of anything.

    Decided to remove the lower shock bolt (please, put the bike on a stand if you do this :D) to unload the stress on the prolink bushings .... after this things got a lot better.

    Was able to rock the prolink bearing from side to side using my fingers and give it a zap from the grease gun which got large gobs of grease coming out from each side of the bearing as I rocked it, SCORE. Maybe success could have been achieved using a hand grease gun, dunno.

    Anyways, there you have it, basically, not happening till you fully remove the lower shock and get it out the way .... at least for me. Easy to do, 5 mins now I know whats what.
    #49
  10. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    Interesting idea there crazy... I'll have to give that a try. "Rock 'N Lube". :wink:
    #50
  11. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    ah, the beginnings of a "how-to lube the swingarm suspension link". nice work crazyB. :thumb
    #51
  12. Mulga

    Mulga Been here awhile

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    The Crazy Brit is right. The "Rock 'N Lube" method works for the Pro-Link. Im even using a hand operated grease gun.:clap

    Edit: I didn't remove the lower shok bolt I just had the bike on its center stand and wriggled the lower shock. My bike only has 6500 ks on the clock so maybe thats why it was easy.
    #52
  13. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    [​IMG]

    did not accept grease from my Kragen 10 buck grease gun... :lol3 I might just stop by a bearing shop and ask them to zap it!
    #53
  14. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Awww meat, you still have the cute little red cap. I was missing it when i got the bike, ordered one, it lasted a week before it fell off :evil
    #54
  15. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    I had to use a set of pliers to pull that bitch off! It wasn't going anywhere. The bearings in the linkage move fine, although I always think they are tight because I am expecting bicycle wheel bearing feel :lol3

    Worst spot so far is the dog bones bearing(s):
    [​IMG]

    just look what those bone-dry rollers did to the shaft:
    [​IMG]

    sneak peek at my upcoming expose'...
    #55
  16. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    When I did mine I think those were ok. I was glad as I wasn't looking forward to extracting the old ones out of there.

    Hooefully it'll clean up with some 1200grit wet paper. Else I think a new one is $$$. Even the 8mm wrench end has a nice 'patina' on it :evil
    #56
  17. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Best I could tell with my pinkie they were all still moving ok, but I was going to wait until I put the shaft back in to check for play. How am I going to find a spec on that? :lol3

    Thanks for the tip on repairing the shaft. The first thing I saw down there was that antiqued 8mm wrench end. I thought "damn" until I realized what it is, but it made me wonder is it supposed to have a protective cover or does KTM expect it to rust away?
    #57
  18. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Err, from the look of them they're shot. If you're putting the effort into redoing I'd just replace them.
    Depends on how bad the surface rust is. If you have to remove the plated finish to get rid of it I'd replace it.
    At 4000 miles mine was fine. Just put some grease on the 8mm end.

    Looks like you should have done this a few miles ago Meat :evil <grin></grin>
    #58
  19. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    EDIT: found a good rule of thumb from creeper on this.

    The last year and a half have been, uh, scattered. Motorcycle maintenance has not even been on the radar. I haven't even caught much saddle time either... sigh. Anyways, I'll look into replacements - they do look kinda rusty for bearings :D

    EDIT: $15x2

    #50
    Item #: 56503195100
    NEEDLE BEARING HK 1816
    Quanity On Diagram: 2
    Cost Each: $14.47

    two seals:

    #51
    Item #: 0760182442
    SHAFT SEAL RING 18X24X4
    Quanity On Diagram: 2
    Cost Each: $5.50

    and $26 for the shaft

    #52
    Item #: 58303084100
    BUSHING BOLT CONNECTING BAR'96
    Quanity On Diagram: 1
    Cost Each: $26.34

    BTW, the annual maintenance rule of thumb seems a tad liberal for "exposed" bearings eh? The linkage seems a bit more protected with the bushings, but I am not a bearing fella.
    #59
  20. Mulga

    Mulga Been here awhile

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    This may be a dumb question.

    I just bought a nifty little propane/butane torch for another job. Would some heat help remove bearings or would it totally kill the rubber seals?
    #60