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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by offtheback, Nov 18, 2018.
Good stuff. That rio gets deep in spots
Check ahead on the ferry to LaPaz.It was not running for a while,and then for freight only.If you find yourselves in Bahia Concepcion drop me a pm.Ride safe.
Thank you. We heard something about the ferry also and will confirm. We will be heading through there and will PM when we know a timeframe.
We are waiting to load the ferry to La Paz in Topolobampo, it is running!
We spent a couple nights in El Fuerte and explored the area. Beautiful city with a lot of history and great people. We stayed at the Rio Vista but if we were to do it again we would stay at the Hotel Choza on the square. You pay a bit extra for the view of the river at the Rio Vista. The place is also a bit dated and after our shower we found our gear sitting in a puddle because there wasn’t a lip around the shower and it drained a bit out the door.
Some of the best food was found off the square at night from the street vendors. We tried the sushi place and were not impressed at all. It was recommended so we tried it.
Hotel Posada is also very nice with a gorgeous courtyard and hummingbird feeders in the bar. At night the hummingbirds are replaced by bats, that was a first.
Looking back we would have stayed another night in Bato and explored the area or into Urique if it was a bit safer. The other option we weighed was going back to Creel and then the route on the north side of the canyon. We also would have ridden a more dirt route from the border. All experiences to take home and plan for our next trip down.
Most guys grow the adventure beard on trips. I have grown tired of always having stray hairs in my mouth and trying to keep it trimmed. So I had it shaved off!
Now onto Baja. We are going to stay a night in La Paz and do some snorkeling with whale sharks!
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I was just about to bail out of this ride report... where the heck is the "sex" in "sex in Mex"?? wtf?
Then I saw it.. that 701. Everyone knows.. that's just sex on wheels. Ya baby!
(slightly biased opinion)
Great pics.. lovin it!
you may have also purchased some ADV gear too?
Did you get all bit up by the tiny black gnats in el fuerte? They absolutely destroy me when im there, for what ever reason they love my gringo blood...
I look like my legs were sprayed with buckshot! They itch a and are also swollen from them, see pic in the update below.
The ferry went off without a hitch. Many reports and guidebooks recommend skipping Topolobampo and for travelers to just go right to the ferry terminal. We met another US couple driving their car that stayed in Topolobampo and enjoyed it. There are some good restaurants and beach front, also a few Airbnb places. Next time we would get a place in Topo and then relax there and not sit at the terminal for hours while waiting to board. Although it is amazing to watch the dock workers load and unload a couple hundred semi trailers.
Getting into the port the bikes were weighed and measured and the port fee of about 60 pesos per bike. Keep track of the weighing and measuring paperwork because you will need it. Then check into get boarding passes. Once the ferry arrived we waited about 2 hours for our turn to board. Thankfully I packed straps for the bikes and we secured them to the deck.
We splurged for the cabin and were pleasantly surprised. They are pretty nice and had plenty of hot water. Paige said it was like a Silkwood shower from the pressure, I liked it. We also planned and took only a couple bags off our bikes with items we would need.
Once you leave your bike/vehicle you can’t return. Also, if you are driving you will be separated from the others in your party until you are in the ferry. Supposedly there is a thorough inspection of the passengers with dogs and such. The good isn’t anything special and is included with the tickets.
We met a couple from Mexicali riding a Goldwing trike doing a tour and they helped us a long a bit. We had to wait a couple hours when we docked before our parking level was called and we could get to the bikes. Sunrise coming into La Paz.
There was a little confusion about the time because we were told we lost an hour overnight to a new time zone. We planned a trip with Red Tours to swim with whale sharks and it was supposed to leave around 10 so we thought we were good with our supposedly losing the hour. We didn’t lose a hour, it took awhile to get off the ferry and then we had to stop and pay a small port fee. Then there were 4 more police and military checkpoints. Thankfully we were just waved through but missed the tour by 30 min. The people from Red were very understanding and we set up a tour for the next day.
So we checked into our hotel, Angel Azul, and decided to hit the beach. We took a taxi to Tecolote where I proceeded to get “Paiged”. My wife is known to take people down a rabbit hole of debauchery and being her spouse it has happened to me a time or two. Fun little beach with great places to eat and drink. Did I mention drinking and shots of tequila?
Paige met the owner of one and we were introduced to Victoria beer. Damn good! We were also almost coaxed into buying a two-stroke jet surfboard.
Passed out in a taxi and hammock. Look at that smile on the she-devil.
Rested and recovered we met with the guys from Red for some whale shark swimming and a tour of Espirtu Santo. It was incredible to be in the water with sea creature the size of a bus. Nothing like it. Unfortunately the video won’t post so it will come once we get home but here are some pics from our day with them. Incredible company that supports sustainable tourism with a community service arm that does projects across Baja to support marine life and communities in need. We also swam with sea lions and learned about the history of the area. There was once the second largest mother of pearl oyster farm on the island and that is reason La Paz became the capital over Loreto.
The hotel staff allowed us to put our bikes in their beautiful courtyard. Since we had to miss the tour the first day we decided to stay another night here. Oh the horror. It is several blocks off the Main Street but you don’t have to listen to cars blaring music all night. They have a honesty bar and open kitchen for you to cook your own meals. We highly recommend this place.
Appears my phone is broken from being mounted to my bars and isn’t focusing very well. Sorry for the blurry pic.
We are packing up and getting ready to head north to Agua Verde/Rancho San Cosme.
wow... nice stuff!
let me know when you want to adopt a father.
Yeah, they swell up and hurt, they're gonna be there for a while. enjoy baja!!
I love your bike. looks like fun, I can't wait to make a similar trip soon! thanks for sharing.
where are those gnats? I'm gonna avoid that place i think.
Great write up! I know it sounds weird, but if you have access to nail polish (choose your color), cover the bites with it. Depending on how much you have scratched will depend on how much it burns, but it's the only thing that stops the itching for me. Makes them heal in about two days max.
We were told by locals to use neosporin mixed with some lime juice.
I didn't try it, but my wife says that it works.
Someone also told us that cat urine works well to remove the itch.
Maybe my "Spanglish" didn't translate that perfectly .................................. but maybe it did!
Thanks for taking us along.
Check out San Francisquito on your way north; one of my absolute favorite places. Call ahead so they'll have gas and food (yummy fish tacos). Saludos.
They let us back into the US! Such an excellent trip, so much to share. We will retroactively post some updates ASAP
Hey, nice hat! A friend pointed me to your thread! So glad; it was great to meet you guys in Taos!
Ok. It has been a bit and we want to finish this up. You know the drill. Get back home, the kids come home, life and the holidays happen. We also had to spend 3 days cleaning up after our dog sitter. Judging by the state of our house we think our dogs sat the dog sitter. Oh well. We had an incredible trip.
The owner of Red Tours happened to know the owner of the hotel we were staying at in La Paz and came over to visit on our last night there. We praised his employees for the great time they showed us on our tour earlier in the day and then told him our future plans for Baja. Since his company runs tours and does community work through out Baja we were looking for some beta on what we had planned next.
One of the places we looked at going to was San Evaristo. We did a brief internet search and we didn't find anything on ride reports but found a blog post from a guy traveling in his 4wd camper van from about a year ago. Chris recommended going there and then heading west from there over the Gigantés to see some missions and a village that is supposed to make knives from leaf springs.
Navigating to San Evaristo is pretty straight forward. Veer right off Mex1 just north of Centenario on Federal Hwy 1. Just before getting to San Juan de La Costa there will be a sign directing you to turn right. This is where the road goes from pavement to dirt. The road is a pretty well graded 2 lane and you will pass some salt ponds and a large conveyor belt that moves rock out to freighters on the water. It stays along the coast most of the way and the last 10 miles or so head into the mountains with several steeper and rocky grades. Nothing too crazy and easily done on our bikes. You really get to see the color and clarity of the water from some of the high points.
I had to get a new phone and I went Android this time and it isn't letting me post in the update so pics 1-3 are the road in.
We rolled in and as we came to the beach we noticed something going on with federales and military. Lots of people with guns so we rode past that house quickly and followed the shore and came across Lupe's restaurant and bar. Basically a house with a porch where Lupe will offer you what you need. Beer, food and he offered us a place to pitch our tent. Plus access to baño all night! He also a rides and was happy to show off his prized 450.
We shared the patio with a few British sailing couples and laughed as each returned from the bathroom and their offense at using a 5 gallon bucket under a toilet seat that you scooped cedar chips into after you left a deposit. This was one of the cleanest bathrooms we came across in our travels. The dirtiest was at a restaurant in Loreto, more on that later.
We shared some shots and beers with our friends from across the pond. Gently skirting our president and my opinions of BREXIT.. Keeping it friendly and not talking politics is one way to do that so it went to Americans don't know how to make a proper pie. With that they returned to their boat and we made camp on the beach in front of Lupe's.
We pitched our tent and our old friend the wind decided to be with us all night. All night long we would brace ourselves when the sound of the wind coming. Because the next thing would be a good sand blasting. This was our first night of cabling and we realized that we left a cross pole for the tent at home. We hoped for good weather because without the pole the rain fly would just flap and crest pockets for water to settle in.
The rest of the pics are the bay and Lupe's. He told us not many motos come through and that he mostly caters to sailors.
I am not sure how people keep on ride reports. These things take time to write and I haven't put any links or other info. Hats off to many of the ride report authors that take the time to share.
I went through San Evaristo in Feb 2017. The restaurant I stopped at (not the one you did) was open, but was not serving food (if that makes sense). I was happy to guzzle a cold cervesa and move on, but one of the fisherman eating their brought-from-home lunch ended up giving me his last burrito.
It’s one of my favorite memories of the trip.
The ride there was a bit more challenging on my F800GSA (though that has more to do with my skill level then than the bike) and pulling up the hill into the plateaus to the west even more so.
Thanks for doing the report. You’re very lucky to have your riding partner.
We arrived late in the day and didn't get to fully look around to see what else was in town. The sailors mention a small grocery store and the place we rode past with the police looked like it may have been another restaurant, but we didn't ask. Lol
That is going to be in the next update. The first 12mi heading west out of town can be a handful. I wouldn't want to do it on anything bigger than a 800 or so.
Thanks, I am very lucky to have @Paiged as my riding and life partner!
I went through San Evaristo in 2009, on paper maps the road out west looked to come from in town instead of just before town, asked a local where the road was, in my broken translation all I caught was turn right at the arroyo, and since there were plenty of tire tracks in the arroyo, followed it until I dumped the fully loaded KLR twice, sun was going down, camped in the arroyo, thinking Ill get up and head back La Paz in the morning. Headed out and found the road 100yds passed the arroyo, headed west up the hill, dropped my bike after spinning out on some rocks, foot peg punched a nice hole in my shin only to be stopped my shin bone, taped some toilet paper over it. couldnt wait till the infection set in from splashing through all those tepid concrete moss covered creek crossings, made it to Cuidad Constitution with 10 miles of reserve left in the tank. That was about enough of baja dirt roads for me!! Great memories though!!
Still waiting to hear the rest of your trip though, following along...