Sherco Skidplate Clearance

Discussion in 'Trials' started by cgunzelman, Feb 7, 2019.

  1. cgunzelman

    cgunzelman Adventurer

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    Feb 13, 2017
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    Does anyone know what kind of clearance the bottom of the engine should have to the skidplate? Currently mine has none and the plate must be bent somehow because it's very difficult to get back on. I've tried bending the front swoop of the plate but have had zero luck so far. This thing is tough! I even tried propping up one end on a flat piece of 2x4 and running it over with the car. Nothing! It's still in exactly the same shape as it was before.

    On a side note, there's also a big 1" crack on one side near the front with some wood embedded in it. I managed to remove the wood after these pictures were taken. The crack will be welded at my friend's fabrication shop where they know a lot more about aluminum than I do.

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    #1
  2. You need a hydraulic press to flatten it out if it's really that bad. A sledge hammer might work in a pinch. Any skid plate on any bike should have some clearance, otherwise when you hit the plate it's transferring the hit directly to whatever it's contacting. It might be rather minimal though, there are places where on the GG it's only 1/4" or less.
    #2
  3. Greebe

    Greebe Been here awhile

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    You could always buy a new one. The bash plate is what holds the bike and engine all together on a trial bike so it might be worth having a new one and not messing with it. I am all for fixing things, but the way that looks I would just replace it.
    #3
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  4. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

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    Press or sludge hammer like heffergm indicated is your best bet other than new.
    #4
  5. cgunzelman

    cgunzelman Adventurer

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    Its mostly straight besides that crack. I'm still trying to find the best place to put a bend in it to get the fit better.

    With the front bolts in, the rear bolts are very difficult to line up and the plate needs to be lifted in place with a car jack to even get it close enough to bolt in. I'm thinking the front swoop of the plate is the problem but i don't have a reference. I'll try the press at my friend's shop and see how far i get.

    Do any bikes run a rubber pad between the engine case and plate? I want to get 1/4" of rubber in there as extra cushion.
    #5
  6. All the ones I'm aware of do, yes.
    #6
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  7. Huzband

    Huzband Team Dirt

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    A pad between the plate & motor is there to keep mud & debris out. If you want one for added protection against impacts, that's a different discussion altogether.

    I can't see the pics, but if you can't get it to line up without too much stress, i.e. using a jack, I'd go with a new plate.
    #7
  8. Greebe

    Greebe Been here awhile

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    Like I said in my last post, I would buy a new plate. It is going to cost you more in the long run if you bugger the frame trying to force the bolts back in at an angle if they do not line up.
    #8
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  9. Greebe

    Greebe Been here awhile

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    #9
  10. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 51 years Supporter

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    Yes, bringing a problem to us inmates without specifying your year and model is, well, incomplete.

    Aluminum skid plates are often made from 'Egal', the Euro equivalent of 7075-T6 alloy, the 7000 series is aluminum-zinc alloy, and the T6 is solid-solution heat treat and artificial age hardening. That material in that condition has a particularly high yield strength. It takes a lot of strain (via a hydraulic press as was mentioned) to push this material beyond the elastic limit into plastic deformation or yield.

    Your issue may come from a rubber pad between the skid plate and engine that has swollen over time from oil soakings from changing tranny oil or from slow gasket leaks. Your problem may go away with a fresh rubber pad.
    #10
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  11. lineaway

    lineaway Long timer

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    You have not been able to buy a skid plate for 2009 and older Sherco's for several years now.
    #11
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  12. tomatoe333

    tomatoe333 Long timer

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    I can't see the pictures, but I had a crack welded up in the skidplate of my 02 Sherco. Local welding shop did the welding, and I smoothed the bottom of the plate with a flap wheel before I reinstalled it.

    The trick for reinstallation is to attach the rear of the plate to the bike with the normal screws threaded in just enough to hold it. If the front screws will reach the appropriate holes in the frame, you're golden. If not, use a slightly longer screws or bolts, and screw them in until it's close enough that the correct screw will work. Unscrew one screw at a time and replace it with the shorter screw. Once the screws are tightened things will bend themselves back into place.

    Don't forget to put the shaped rubber pad back between the engine and skidplate when reinstalling. DAMHIK.
    #12
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  13. cgunzelman

    cgunzelman Adventurer

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    Just updated the pictures, not sure why they were broken so fast as I attached them directly to the post instead of linking. Anyway I have a 2000 2.9. The rubber pad is gone from many owners previous. I'll have to find a replacement on ebay or something. The crack in my plate is a very strange one, looks more like an issue with the metal itself rather than brute force.
    #13
  14. tomatoe333

    tomatoe333 Long timer

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    That looks similar to the crack I had on my 02 2.9. It might have been something intrinsic in the metal, or the large rock that I landed hard on that caused it. Either way, I cleaned as much crud out of it as possible, and my local welding shop welded it up. It might be worth a call to Ryan Young to see if that rubber pad is still available, or hit up Trials Bike Breakers UK on Facebook.

    I sold the bike about 15 months ago, and it looks like it's back up for sale again, in eastern PA, if anyone is looking for an older Sherco.
    #14
  15. cgunzelman

    cgunzelman Adventurer

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    How much are they asking? There's some people around me that might be interested.
    #15
  16. tomatoe333

    tomatoe333 Long timer

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    $2k, it's posted in the closed "trials bikes for sale USA" group on FB.
    #16