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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by motolover, Nov 12, 2019.
That thing's useless now. I'll take it off your hands, as a favor of course...
Keep in mind the bike is to be crushed soon. This is simply a pre-crushing. Good job!
Your not supposed to be crushed, right! Never know in them foreign countries A.
If you can walk in the morning it's a good day! Even if it hurts, long as your not broken.
Need anything, call!
My take on the T7
I am considering this bike but it is still a maybe.
I have ridden the bike briefly with stock suspension and for an aggressive hour or so off road after modifying the suspension. Including rocks, jumping at maybe 35mph and getting I guess 10 feet of distance. Jumping into a face to make the bike bottom out hard etc. No sand. The bike steers well while sitting, better than my 990. Standing it is quite good. My 990 is 50lbs lighter than stock.
The bones of the bike are really good. Meaning it handles really well. I was able, at speed, to brake hard into a corner, change lanes and take an inside line with ease. Wow!
Very maneuverable and it impressed me. Very balanced.
Jumping became very natural to the point of hitting some jumps and finding the front wheel crossing up a bit. The bike is so stable you do not have to line the bike up perfectly and that was fun.
The power, torque is the word. Low rpm pulling power and excellent traction to the point that traction control is not even needed.
Not enough power for me though. I have to look to get another 15hp or so. That way I can lift the front end when I want and slide the rear at will. In high traction smooth wet dirt road you will not be pitching the rear out. I tried. There simply is not enough power. You will gain more speed than anticipated due to the traction, but in a more conservative and serene way. I am not conservative, old yes but not conservative.
On the road at high speed the motor is smooth and really good. All day long good.
With the little tiny suspension components you get what you pay for. Stock if your sitting down and enjoying the flowers and Bambi it is fine. Get aggressive and fugetaboutit.
Cartridges are tiny. The forks being small can physically fit only so much spring. So go to any stiffer than about a .66kg spring and you are going to start binding the spring. I could hand make some parts to get more spring in there but there was no time for that in this situation. So .66 was pretty good for my weight and a matching rear spring. Changed the fork mid valve to the sprung mid and valved it all up front and rear.
There are some compromises but it was working pretty darn good. Not plush not harsh just firm, waaay more bottoming resistance and way more control at higher speed.
Jumped into the face of a whoop at about 25mph and got it to clank.
I found myself going faster than I do on my 990 after only a few miles.
Rear was on the firm side even for me but I hit a whoop section without too much fanfare. I am thinking I need more spring on the 990.
Suspension as is can be set up for an intermediate rider that is moderately aggressive up to 195lbs. That is my weight. Lighter person we could bring in more plushness. Heavier person that is not jumping etc. as once we get more spring in there we only have so much flow in the 20mm fork pistons. So you would have to start as they say riding the spring. Less damping more spring as adding more damping than I had will definitively usher in harshness.
By the way I ported the pistons on this bike to get all the flow I could. Come to think of it bet I could find a piston that would flow better and hmm.
Anyhow I really like this bike, a lot.
I think you will too.
Camel-ADV.com mentioned a Rally version. What! Where? Specs?
Those of you that live close to places where you can take advantage of these bikes on day rides are very lucky. Jealous I am.
Great write up HWD! This is a bike I have been waiting for for quite sometime. Thanks again! Keep us informed of your thinking on suspension as I weigh about the same as you tho not as aggressive at 68 years of young!
The handlebars put up a good fight before they surrendered!
Uffda. Saw the crash on IG, glad you're doing okay!
would a cross brace across the bars have helped, or help in the future? Not sure cause that force has to go somewhere, and better handlebars bent than forks.
I only did a 30 mile sand/mud track where normally novice riders would suffer, after a day of heavy rain, no whoops to speak of but plenty of medium deep tracks from the day before where a few hundred riders had ridden the same course.
It started with some heavy mud, and i took it easy, and rode into that at about 20 mph, standing up to let the bike do the work, and being able to correct the front end if it would slide, nothing happened, and the bike went straight as an arrow through this, after this deep sand, but this is my natural habitat so i kept standing up and opened the throttle more, to travel at a comfy 55 mph or so and still same, changing lines, and cutting through the ruts was completely effortless, high speed straight line stability felt so good that i just sat down at the back give it the gas, hold the handlebars just lightly and just and let her go, same as i used to on my KTM 500 two stroke enduro bike in the eighties and nineties kinda felt similar to that, after a while i was doing around 80 mph and the bike felt at home, and i felt i was riding a little enduro bike with no need to stand up.
In short corners i was missing some traction, but cannot expect better from the stock pirellies.
After about fifteen minutes i came to part of the course where there was some hard packed whooops overgrown with gras and i went in a little to fast this was a little to much for the back end it and started dancing around, not what i expected , but was not hard to correct this as the ergonomics of the bike give room for this like a real dirtbike, and for being a twin, that wants to go forward, stability was gained back easier than i thought but this is something a serious offroader/ rally rider would wanna improve, to me this was due to not enough rebound damping on the shock so easy fix.
So if you're serious about traveling at high speed off/road in unknown terrain something to look after for peace of mind, but nothing bad for the experienced offroader.
After this my mindset was, i wanna do some serious rally racing on this, leave it stock, except for tires, raise the handlebars a bit, and see how far i get, and then make some improvements after, bike has made an impression on me and made me think of my white ktm from the nineties, i rode which so much fun in enduro and every winter in beach races.
It was a nasty crash, I doubt it would have made a difference and as you mentioned, the force has to go somewhere.
Skip to 9:12 for handlebar commentary.
That's beautiful. Where is that?
Poland, West Pomeranian Voivodeship, Golice.
Hey Camel ADV, how did you mount those cyclops LEDs and did you end up keeping them? Thinking of doing the exact same when I get the bike here in Toronto, can start ordering parts needed :)
It's a prototype mount that attaches to our main high fender kit bracket. The lights aren't on the bike now but will be going back on when I get time.
Thank you, also can the orange halo be wired to be the signal, so flash when turning right or left?
That's a good question but have no answer for you. I had them wired so the halo came on with the ignition and the main beam with the bike's high beam. It seems like there shouldn't be an issue setting them up to flash with your signals but I don't know. @Off Road Ryder is the owner of Cyclops and he'd be the best guy to ask.