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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by modrover, Apr 13, 2004.
So who makes the body parts? I like the side covers.
+1 to finding out the answer to this. I'm guessing that's all custom bodywork....looks bloody brilliant tho!
Looks like Boano to me.
Looks like you're right about Boano on the front fairing. The cut-out center section to add the plexi and stacked lights really gives it a whole new look. Now we just need to know where the side covers came from....
Goffi Workshop (https://www.pinterest.it/goffiworkshop/boards) makes some of that stuff also, but I don't see the side covers in there.
Guys, that's my fairings... I manufacture this Bolt-On Rally Kit . But Marco from Italy rebuild whole transalp
That's really nice looking work there. But I take it those are not your Side Covers.
I have been having issues installing the throttle tube on my TA for the last week or so.
I found a post from 2013 explaining the process, but I still can't get it. I was even using a c-clamp to hold the throttle assembly since I am working alone.
If I take the cables off of the carb, I can't get them back in once the throttle is installed. If I leave the cables in the carb, I don't have enough slack to get them into the throttle tube.
Is there an adjuster or something that I am missing to give me that slack? I can get it together without the white nylon piece, but I cant get the nylon piece back in without trapping the upper cable.
I have done throttles on plenty of other bikes, but this one is just ridiculous.
I've always found it easier to take the cables off the carbs and assemble the throttle tube a house off the handle bars. Once the tube is together then you can slide it back onto the bars and then connect the cables at the carbs. I think if you look at the cable holders on the carburetors you will see that they are both horse shoe shaped and once you loosen the adjusting nuts the cables will slide towards the carbs and out of the holder. that will give you enough slack to put the barrels in the throttle shaft wheel and then put the cables back into the horse shoe holders. The push cable is not adjustable, only the pull cable.
It's kind of a puzzle. Replaced mine not too long ago, think I used a XR650L tube ??? Didn't take anything loose at the carbs, just worked at the top. Once you get one cable in, I think you can pull the other one (against the return spring pressure) to get the needed extra slack. Maybe first put it together without it being on the bar.
I ended up adjusting some slack out of the pull cable and that seemed to give me the slack that I needed. I needed maybe 3mm more on the slack. Just went out for a little test ride around the neighborhood and it seemed to be just fine.
thanks a ton for the input!
So I don't think that the Transalp can get the wheel up in second gear without proper technique, since the clutch slips too much in higher gears.
Probably too loose springs from OEM. I have longer and stiffer springs but it still seems to not want to engange 100% when popping the clutch in second gear.
It always rises in revs and then goes down again. Maybe I need to remove the clutch pack again and scotchbrite the metal disks?
Anyway, here's a little video comp about the Transali doing what it does best (or worst)
Barnett makes hd springs and Kevlar lined friction discs that will positively eliminate any unwanted clutch slip
Without this clutch, my TA/ Hawk conversion would have been a failure as the stock clutch was totally incapable of handling the increased power from the engine work.
Downside is heavier lever pull but a lever with a bearing type pivot instead of bushing really helps
Yes it seems like your clutch slips, I am seeing all the ingredients of a nice wheelie but the bike falls flat
It should snap right up there, no worries.
Can you start the bike, put it in say 3rd or 4 th gear and rev the engine and then dump the clutch
Does it stall immediately? If not, the clutch is slipping
Be aware the bike might do something unexpected so do this in an open area, safety gear etc....
Get rid of the jibber spring and install 1 extra friction.
Get a Clutch Pack out of a NT650 or VT750. They use 7 plates and the TA only uses 6. Barnett makes plate and springs for these. They say the springs aren't for the TA, but they fit fine.
Could be a solution, a little sketch but it should put more pressure on the plates.
It's a new clutch too by the way but everything was in spec. New cable, new clutch lever/mount.
Nice info, I'll check it out when the clutch has been burned up :)
Got quite a few thousand miles on mine without the jibber spring. That spring is meant to allow the clutch to slip a little and not fully lockup.
2nd gear poppa wheelies. 3rd if you abuse it a bit.
A swing arm bearing/bush question please, guys: I'm in the process of removing pretty crusty needle roller bearings from the swing arm of my newly acquired '87 UK bike, and replacing with new. A metal bush locates against the outer bearing on each side of the SA. How have people gone about getting that bush out? Does it have to be removed before trying to extract the bearing, or do they come out together? And for removal, would an inexpensive bearing puller suffice, such as:
Don't let it burn up completely. That just runs all the fiber particles and burnt oil through the rest of the engine and transmission.
This is my beloved Transalpino.
It's an XL 600 V TRANSALP -MY 1992-
It's mine since 2004.
One only owner before me.
I modified it (not in an extreme way) for a better use in Off Road and Travelling.
As soon as possible I will post more informations about it.
For now....just my greetings from (the Norh of) Italy!
Exactly from a small town near Monza, in Lombardia.
And...sorry for my rusty english!